"Bill Maier" wrote in message
om...
[snip]
The first chassis I hooked up I mixed the vert and horiz and popped
a cap on the board. Do not do this. This is bad. I contacted Victor
and he said he would repair it for $20. I thought this was very nice,
since I was the one that let the smoke out.

Yes, that is very nice of Victor, but once you factor in shipping, it's
kinda pricey, especially since you said you've done cap kits, this should be
a 5 minute replacement and you should be able to pick up the cap from a TV
shop or even BobRoberts for not too much (or email me and I might have an
old one scavenged from old boards I could send you if you can tell me the
ratings/which one)


The second chassis I installed correctly. The picture was very
nice and crisp, good color, good adjustment except the horiz width did
not work- just spun freely. The only problem was that the image was
bowed in about one inch on the left and the right (monitor mounted
horiz). Like this ) (. There is no adjustment for this I used this
chassis one all three tubes with the same results.

This is EXACTLY what I experienced using the original RCA tube+yoke from a
WG K4600 on the 8liners chassis... It ended up with )( pincushion. [and that
was the low impedence chassis]. However with every donor TV tube+yoke, I
got near-perfectly [] square screens. And vise-versa... RCA tube+yoke in
the K4600 looked [] while every TV tube+yoke bowed outward () in the WG
chassis.

Therefore I believe that Victor's (Jenshinn) chassis' are tuned to work with
most standard TV tube yokes and NOT the old Wells-Gardner or Electrohome
chassis (at least those two).

It would be interesting to hear from others with these chassis and also
other chassis to see how the yokes interchange. However if I recall
correctly someone on ArcadeControls message boards tried this on a G07's
tube and didn't seem to have this problem, but it may have been swapped
previously with a different yoke for them?

As far as your sharpness.. were these old RCA 19VxxP22 tubes? I see so much
more sharpness on the old tube in the new chassis than I do on newer,
unburned in donor TV tubes at normal brightness/contrast levels. The
sharpness on the old tube comes close to a minty-new Hanatrex monitor I
have, where the 8liners chassis on a TV tube is just too 'bloomed' and soft,
but not really out of focus, but definitely not sharp.


However, my test game is a MAME machine running with a JPac. The
JPac has a video amplifier built in so I still question if this may be
the cause of the bowing.

This might be an issue, but unlikely since you can get it good on the
original chassis and it matches what I witnessed.


Anyone else care to post experiences?