Chris,

Thanks for the precaution. Yes, the schematic clearly shows the 120VAC is in
the ice maker. My design must be slightly different since the motor turns a
small plastic gear which turns a larger gear which has a cam with a raised
lobes that activate the three microswitches referenced in my previous
posting. I did remove the face plate and did a quick check of the 3
microswitches with the power off and an ohmmeter and they all seemed to work
fine when depressed with my finger. As I also noted the motor appears to be
turning. It appears to turn fairly quickly (equivalent to maybe a
revolution in about 4 or 5 minutes) for the portion of the cycle when the
ice gets ejected from the mold and then slows down for the remaining half
cycle or so. This leads me to believe it is working properly.

I just need to get more time when the unit is less full to troubleshoot the
ice mold heater and thermostat. Thanks again to all for the assistance.
I'm certain this will get solved, I just need to get the time and empty the
unit more to work in there.

Bob

wrote in message
...

I had to repair my ice maker for the same symptoms. Either no-fill or
inadequate fill. The problem was the timer motor contacts for the
solenoid were burnt and corroded. Crappy design reminiscent of
failure prone washer machine timers.

Anyway, the problem was very obvious as soon as the face of the
icemaker was removed. I cleaned up the contacts and used some epoxy
to fill in where the surrounding plastic melted. Been working for 4
years since that repair.

One other warning: Unplug the fridge before you remove or work on the
icemaker. There is 120 volts on the internals and the connector
(which may or may not be adequetly protected against prying hands).

-Chris