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Jeff Liebermann Jeff Liebermann is offline
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Default Can and LED floodlight possibly be as bright as a real floodlight?

On Wed, 15 Oct 2014 20:07:02 +0000 (UTC), Jerry Peters
wrote:

In sci.electronics.repair Jeff Liebermann wrote:


Insulating it with Teflon tape
doesn't seem like a good idea. In a year or two, try the impact
wrench.


Seriously? You think the teflon tape will insulate it?


No. It would reduce the contact area. However, the current through
the anode is so low, it probably would make no difference.

Pipe threads
are designed for an interference fit, the pipe threads will cut
through the tape with ease. The tape is just to fill the gap between
the male & female threads.


With Teflon tape filling the gaps, I can re-insert the rod using less
torque than I would with a metal to metal fit, thus making it easier
to remove at a later date, and hopefully maintaining a leak proof
seal. At least that's my theory, which remains untested.

Just bend the rods when you remove them, they're either magnesium or
aluminum alloy on a wire. Replace with the bendable variety.


This was a new rod that I was trying to insert, so bending was not an
option. I should have purchased the sausage style of rod.

Inspect the rods every year or two, when you start to see mostly wire
it's time for replacement.


On my water heater (GE/Rheem something), I have two separate holes for
the two rods. On some others, the 2nd rod is combined with the hot
water outlet, making inspection rather awkward:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Anode-top-of-heater-600.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html
I'm tempted to add yet another hole and see if a borescope inspection
camera will.


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Jeff Liebermann
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