On Mon, 19 May 2014 04:24:05 +0200, nestork
wrote:


;3237422 Wrote:

The goal is to just remove 4" from the wall the entire length of the
bad
area, and put down the plywood. I want to get right up to the wall to
remove all the bad flooring and so I have as much of the 2x8 joist
exposed to fasten the new plywood. I may still add blocks of 2x4
between each joist so there is more to nail to.
Thanks

The saw that will come closest to your wall would be a toe kick saw.

'Crain Toe Kick Saw 795' (http://tinyurl.com/pwlftdr)

Toe kick saws are used to cut through the underlayment when replacing
the flooring in kitchens. In that case, the underlayment goes UNDER the
kitchen cabinets, and if the old flooring was glued down, you have the
daunting task of removing the old adhesive from the old underlayment. A
far better option is to cut through the underlayment right in front of
the cabinet and replace that underlayment. That way, you have a new and
clean surface on which to install your new flooring. Most toe kick saws
have a fixed cutting depth of 3/4 inch. If you want a shallower kerf,
you put a piece of plywood or something down and run the saw over that
plywood. Also, most toe kick saws will cut almost flush with the front
of the toe kick; maybe a 32nd of an inch in front of the toe kick or
something like that.

You can buy toe kick saws cheap from Harbour Freight, or you can rent
them at any tool rental shop. I would try Home Depot tool rentals, or
phone any retail carpet or flooring store and ask to talk to their
Installations Manager. The Installations Manager would know which
places in your area will sell flooring installation supplies, and which
of those places would rent tools like a toe kick saw.

Now this does look like a handy tool, and made for exactly what I'm
doing. But for one job. I'll rent it. That's pretty pricey. If I was
in business, I might buy one.

This may help in the one place I need to go under an inner wall too. I
dont want to remove the wall, so the thought is to cut it on both sides,
and knock out the remains under the wall with hammer and chisel, then
use a sawsall to cut off any nails on the bottom of the wall. With this
tool I can cut close and wont have as much to bust out under the 3"
thick wall, because that is all it is in these trailers. The trick will
be to get the plywood under the wall, but these trailer homes always put
down the particle board, then cover the entire floor with vinyl
flooring, BEFORE building the walls. That extra 1/16th of an inch
should help me get the plywood under it.

I'm putting 2x4 blocking under all joints, and will cover that entire
part of the trailer with an extra half inch of plywood over tbe top.
The half inch plywood is actually a little cheaper than the 3/16"
underlayment. Even though the floor will be a half inch higher than the
rest of the home, I figure the floor will be much stronger.
Particularly where the existing particle board will remain.

It seems that one of the top reasons people junk trailer homes is
because the floors give out. I know one guy who was very overweight,
who almost every week put his foot thru the floor of an older trailer,
and more than one chair leg went thru. But that part that made me
laugh, is that both legs on the head end of his bed went thru one night.
He would not admit it, but I think he and his wife were in the middle of
some "hot action". I got tired of him calling me to help fix his floor,
which in his case meant putting in a 16" piece of plywood. And the next
week he'd break thru right next to the patch. I finally convinced him
to cover all the floors in the whole trailer with 1/2" plywood, which
was a lot easier than patching it all the time.

Anyhow, thanks for the tip. I did not know they made such a tool.