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wrote:
One of my CNC mills has a problem. The machine, a Fadal 15XT, built in
1998, (I think), keeps showing an alarm for a malfunction the machine
can't have.

Does the problem board have any mechanical support other than the edge
connector? Is this support aligned correctly and connected? (Example:
the bracket on most PC expansion cards that screws down to the chassis.)

You might also look for metal debris, oil, old grease, dried coolant,
etc, on both sides of the problem board and on the "motherboard" that it
plugs into. This may mean removing the motherboard from the cabinet,
which is generally a giant PITA. I know *you* would never run the mill
with the cabinet wide open, but you have no idea what the low-down
so-and-so who owned it before you did.

I like Cydrome Leader's idea of possible bad solder joints. It could
also be that the edge connector on the motherboard has one or more
contacts that have lost their springiness. This is partly determined by
eliminating other causes, but if there are other cards with the same
connector, you can get an idea by unplugging one of those cards from its
slot and reseating it. Compare the force it takes to do that with the
force it takes to do the same thing with the problem board. If the
problem board is way easier to remove and replace, you might suspect the
connector. If you conclude that the connector is bad, usually you can
replace just the connector, but this may involve unsoldering a bunch of
pins.

If it's a bad connection, you might be able to induce the problem by
poking at the board(s) with a nice long dry plastic stick, as long as
you're reasonably sure that there isn't 120 V or 240 V running around
the board. Have a hand on the e-stop and/or circuit breaker when you do
this, just in case you manage to send a signal for "drive the table 20
feet that way and turn on the spindle to 100,000 rpm" by poking.

If I turn off the machine and let it cool for even 4 hours the board
will still throw alarms. However, if I remove the board and put it
back in the alarms stop.

If removing and reseating the board is an instant fix, I think this
points heavily in the direction of a bad contact somewhere. If you had
a failing component, usually you would have to wait for that component
to cool down enough to start working again.

I like this idea less, but here it is: if the sensor is a relatively
high-resistance device, a couple of things could be happening. 1) Some
foreign glop on the board in exactly the right (wrong?) spot has
changing resistance with temperature, and eventually gets low or high
enough to trigger the alarm. This wouldn't tend to go away just by
unplugging/replugging, though. 2) The alarm input, itself, has a high
impedance, and eventually drifts to a high enough voltage to trigger
the alarm. This *might* fix itself by unplugging/replugging.

Sometimes if there is a sensor that your model doesn't have, the input
for that sensor will have a jumper wire or resistor across it as a
dummy. Can you tell if anything like that used to be there and is now
missing? You might have to compare to photos of a similar machine -
this may or may not be in the manual.

I have cleaned the contacts with alcohol and "contact cleaner".

You might try taking the problem board out of the machine and sticking a
clean piece of stiff paper, like a folded index card, into the slot in
the edge connector that is still in the machine. Cut the paper to the
same length as the card edge connector - don't use a shorter piece of
paper and slide it back and forth, because you may catch one of the
contacts and bend it. It may also help to wrap the paper around a thin
piece of material (sheet metal?) - but you want the whole stack to be no
thicker than the circuit board that belongs there. Remove the paper and
inspect for signs of glop or corrosion in the edge connector.

So after the long winded explanation above I am wondering if dirty
contacts could somehow make the board run warm and cause the alarms.

Dirty contacts will heat up if there is enough current going through
them. However, I would guess that a board that monitors pressure
sensors (and probably interlock switches and stuff like that too) is
running on relatively low voltage and current. If there was a board
driving the servo motors or coolant pump or something that takes
relatively more juice, then it would have a worse time with dirty
contacts.

If you can identify the low-voltage DC power supply (probably 5, 12,
or 24 VDC, but it could be a lot of things), it probably wouldn't hurt
to measure its output voltages with a multimeter, both when the mill
is working OK and when it is throwing alarms. This probably isn't the
problem, but low (or high) power supplies can cause many weird effects.

Matt Roberds