On 2012-10-07, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2012-10-07, Ro Grrr wrote:

I'm getting a DIEBOLD FILE SAFE that is about 5 feet tall and 3 feet
wide, double doors. Its locked and there's no combination so I'm
probably giong to have to drill the door to get into the combination
lock.

The first thing to do is try the "storage" combination, and the
reverse of that in case someone mis-remembered the order when setting it
for storage.

Starting to the left:

50 L (past three times and then stop on)
25 R (past two times and then stop on)
50 L (past once and then stop on)
0 R (and then either continue if there is not a turn bar
in the center of the knob, or Turn the bar and go back
left until it stops.

or perhaps (same pattern)

25
50
25
0

I had thought about cutting the bottom panel out of it to gain entry
then welding it back in as I did with a Wendy's Restaurant money safe
but I don't know if there are any partitions in this box.

If it is the one which I dealt with at work, there are three
full-width shelves inside it. I never tried to change the height, so
I'm not sure whether they are movable or not, but I think that they are.
We had some interesting classified hardware stored in the bottom of one
of them.

And I believe that these were made to resist fire, so they have
a thick wall full of asbestos-concrete, which I believe also applies to
the floor of the cabinet.


I have a TAYLOR safe which I successfully drilled, thanks to a
locksmith years ago but I have since lost track of him.

I'm looking for a locksmith or someone else who will tell me what the
correct drill point is.

Typically, these things (Diebold, Mosler and similar) have a
layer of really nasty stuff to drill through. A mix of concrete, old
indexable tool inserts, broken file fragments, and anything else to make
the task much more difficult.

A few safes that I saw, would be easy to open from the bottom with a
torch.

i