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Default How to adjust PVC door hinges (pictures)


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Paul - xxx wrote:
Ret. wrote:

Paul - xxx wrote:
Chris J Dixon wrote:

SS wrote:

Does anyone know how I can adjust these hinges on a PVC door
(dropping at the latch side)

I hope the links work.

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...20Dates/h1.jpg

This one looks off center..

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...0Dates/h11.jpg

The hinge is deliberately made with an eccentric pin. By
rotating the plastic wheel (and hence the pin) using the
screwdriver slot, you can get some degree of adjustment. When
you replace the plastic cap, which should have a couple of
pegs on the underside, it stops the wheel from rotating in
normal use.

+1

Be careful to try and adjust them all evenly. It looks like
one is different to the others, so I'd reset all of them,
then back out again a notch at a time. This stops the door
or frame moving as much. I know they're not supposed to
'much', but UPVC doors do experience thermal expansion and in
our school I have to adjust them every season, it seems.

One problem is they're usually delivered as a pre-set
door/frameset to a building site and some builders just whack
them in any old how, not caring if they're hung well or true,
so it might be worth making up a plumb line to check the
verticals and a spirit level for horizontals and make a
decent job of it. OTOH, a lot of the time it's suck it and see, a
twiddle here,
a twiddle there and job's a good 'un .. .

My uPVC front door (which is the typical type with a frame
with a 'sandwich' filler of part glass and part moulded
plastic) occasionally drops slightly and catches at the
bottom. I have found that this has nothing to do with the
hinges - but is the frame itself slipping out of shape (In
effect the top and bottom of the door frame start to slope
down slightly). If I bend down and grip the underneath of the
door at the latch end and heave up, this puts the frame back
into shape and the door no longer catches. I perhaps have to
do this once or twice a year. When I refer to the door 'frame' in
this context - I am not
talking about the frame into which the door fits - but rather
the outer frame of the door itself, into which is fitted the
moulded insert.

That's interesting, never come across this yet, but I can see
how it might happen .. and we may have a door with exactly this
symptom where everything's plumb and square but it still 'drops'
and catches on the bottom edge occasionally, however the hinges
are set. I'll give it a try next time, cheers.

You're welcome!

I managed to adjust the the hinges which gave me an improvement
but the door is still catching slightly on the latch side.

If your door is of the same type as mine - ie having a frame like a
window - but having a moulded insert instead of a sheet of double
glazing - then try my suggestion. Just bend down and place both
hands under the door at the latch end and heave upwards (not too
hard or you might lift the door off its hinges!). You should hear
a 'creak' as the door frame readjusts itself - and you then may
find that the door no longer catches.

--
Kev

Link below is the door it has glass but not full size. If you look
at the top of the frame it appears off the square.

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...ates/door1.jpg

And this is where it is catching..

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h1...ates/door3.jpg

OK - mine catches at the bottom when the door frame 'slumps'
slightly. Clearly your problem is not the same as mine! Sorry.

--
Kev


Kev thanks for the input, I am trying anything that might work, as I
mentioned I do have an improvemnt so will keep plodding away.
I just moved to this house a few weeks ago and prior to that had
wooden doors and windows, hate these damn plastic things.


I prefer the plastic! I have plastic windows, plastic doors front and
side, plastic patio doors at the rear, plastic eves, plastic soffits,
plastic roof tile end caps... Completely maintenance free! I used to
hate painting window frames.

--
Kev


My previous house although wooden window frames was not painted it was a
preservative, Butinox or something similiar sounding, I only done them 3
times in 21 years and the wood was still sound. I agree though maintenance
free is the way to go, the only prob with this house is the previous owner
has not maintained anything, still I got a good reduction on the house price
because of it and basically its just general maintenance stuff and internal
painting, salmon pink and blue walls with grey skirtings and rads must have
put loads off a decent house.

My previous house although wood frames was not painted, it had a