Thread: Finger joints
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J. Clarke J. Clarke is offline
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Default Finger joints

StephenM wrote:
"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...
StephenM wrote:
With finger joints, it's not about the bit, it's about the jig.


With finger joints it's at least as much about the bit as the jig. A
dovetail you can adjust by changing the depth. With a finger joint
bit and
a jig either the bit's the right diameter or it isn't. It might be
possible
to design a jig that allows the spacing to be altered easily by
1/100s of an
inch but I've never seen one.


You're right; it is possible, but...:
http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/...onna-love-this


I was thinking in terms of doing it with the router, not the table saw.

I just had an epiphany--with a stacked dado set in the table saw the kerf
can be adjusted in tiny increments, and an Incra jig works as well on the
table saw as it does on the router.

Next time I make box joints I think I'll do it that way--not really used to
having a table saw in the shop yet so it tends to be the last tool I go to.

Might actually be interesting to design.


By box-joint jig I meant something like this:

http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodwork...box-joint-jig/
I have found that the best way to adjust this type of jig is not to
move the
reference pin, but instead, to move the blade by adding or subtracting
stacked dado shims.



Building a well-adjusted BJ jig is very fussy. The alternative is
using a DT jig with a BJ template (you might as well buy the stock).


What's a "BJ" in this context?


Box joint (a.k.a. finger joint) implemented on a "dovetail" jig.


slaps face DUH!


"dovetail jig::
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...0&cookietest=1

"finger joint template" for a "dovetail jig":

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...campaign=V9120

I hope that clarifies,


I've made box joints with the router before--it's always been a crapshoot--I
had one 1/2" bit that cut just right, my other bits are either a tiny bit
oversized (loose joint) or undersized (no way that joint is going to go
together). Then I managed to break the good 1/2" and the replacement (same
brand, same part number) was a little bit under.