On Thu, 19 Mar 2009 10:03:18 -0600, Chris Friesen
wrote:

Keith Nuttle wrote:
Chris Friesen wrote:

If you don't want to pay for the added safety of a magnetic switch then
something like this would work:

http://grizzly.com/products/110-220V...f-Switch/H8243

How would you install one of these switches ie. the paddle switch?

That switch is supposed to fit normal electrical boxes, so the simplest
is probably to mount an electrical box under the table at a suitable
location. Worst-case, you can drill/tap the cast iron to accept some
bolts, or there might be a way to use existing holes--hard to tell
without looking at the saw. You'll probably need to use a spacer or
bracket of some sort to mount the box so that the switch has enough
clearance to fasten to the box.

Years ago I drilled and tapped the CI top of my Sears Model 100 and
mounted a ½" pipe flange under the table. I then fitted a 3 or 4"
nipple into the flange, then a ½" NPT threaded collar, followed by the
electrical box, followed by another ½" NPT threaded collar. Mount the
switch inside, and voila.

There's a couple of pictures of the switch on my saw at my website:

http://www.woodbutcher.net/craftts.shtml



--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net
http://www.normstools.com

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