"Paul aka Sporty" wrote in
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"Jim Yanik" wrote in message
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"R. LaCasse" wrote

|Why bother? Buy a butane powered soldering iron and be done
|with it.


I think I suggested that about a week ago!

Sounds good, if you plan on burning all the plastic around the
soldering area I'm considering with wind included...pretty
messy sometimes..


Not if you use your brain just a TINY bit.

You fire it up, let it heat to the proper useable temperature
and the SHUT THE FLAME OFF before you get near the plastic
parts. Should be good
for one or two joints before the wind cools it off too much.
OR
The little catalytic flame only blows in one direction; once you
figure that out, you should be able to point it AWAY from the
meltable parts........and once it is up to temp. and you turn
the "flame" down to
a maintenance level, there isn't that much heat coming out
anyway. OR
You could continue to whine over nothing.




The Portasol is very controllable, I never melted anything other
than solder with it.
All you need is some soldering skills and some common sense when
using it.

A good flux is often handy too.

The strands in vehicle wiring are rarely tin plated and usually
oxidised, the flux in cored solder just makes a mess so I keep a
tub of active plumbers flux ready to hand.

Someone else mentioned the risk of vibration to soldered joints -
heat shrink sleeve reduces this risk significantly.




Rosin Flux Soldering Paste is what you need.


It doesn't work - it just burns on as an impenetrable lacquer so you
have to scrape all the strands with a knife blade before you can
carry on and do the job properly with an active flux. If the solder
takes on any of the strands you can't easily scrape them so you then
have to cut the ruined strands off and start all over again!




soldering with an acid flux is OK *IF* you clean ALL the flux off
afterwards. (very iffy...)

Otherwise,the acid eventually eats thru the wire enough that
vibration breaks it.

BTW,some rosin fluxes are more active than others.

I wonder if you first cleaned the wires with Tarn-X,then soldered
with rosin flux,if that would be better?

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net


Capillary action will pull acid up the insulation when heated and down
the road the joint will fail.



that's the "iffy" part....the -complete- cleaning.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net