On Jul 6, 4:11*am, Joe Brophy wrote:
On Sat, 28 Jun 2008 10:30:20 -0700 wrote:
On Jun 26, 10:00*pm, dayvo wrote:
Bondo works great for repairing arcade machines. *For damage to the
bottom edges your better off replacing the plywood. *Bondo sticks
really well but I've had it break off and that sucks after you've
finished a nice paint job. *Use a router with a spiral or dado bit to
cut off the bottom 6-8 inches and then replace it with new plywood.
Screw and glue in the new plywood and fill the crack with bondo. *Go
easy on the bondo because it's hard to sand and gums up sandpaper real
quick. *A good tip for sanding bondo is to spread a light coat of
mineral spirits over it (I use my hand but I'd suggest a rag) and then
sand immediately with a ROS. *The bondo still gums up the paper but
it's more of a slurry than a thick chuck. *It makes better use of the
sand paper and gives you a smoother finish. *The paper will will also
separate from its backing at some point as the mineral spirits eats
through it quickly. *Go lighter on the mineral spirits and accept that
you'll need a lot of paper if you put a lot of bondo on there.
Yes, I know everyone raves about Bondo on the arcade newsgroups, but
if youlook at the pics, you'll notice that the cabinet is on it's side
and the pics were taken of the bottom. There is only about 1-1/2" to
work with there.
I was hoping there w as a way to clamp all four bottom panels and then
fill, file, and sand to spec.(But I assume this is not plausible,
correct?).
Thanks.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
Your pictures show not only delamination but some of the intermediate middle core ply's have eroded losing mass also.
On top of that, there are corners involved which is probably were it all started to work it's way apart. *I would
seriously consider a epoxy based 2 part wood restoration system. *My favorite in that arena by far is "CPES" (Clear
Penetrating Epoxy Sealer) made by Smith & Co. in California.
The reason I think it is a head and shoulders above the others is due to the formulation's curing characteristics. *It is
a relatively low viscosity liquid, and will soak into the wood fibers almost like a sponge, this restores the strength of
the wood and encapsulates any additional damage that may be lurking within the laminations further back than is readily
visible. *The pot life of the product is longer than any epoxy based system I have ever used. *It is workable for 3+ hours
even in 75-85 degree F weather. *There is also a variant that will cure below 40 degrees F so the product has a unusually
broad operating spectrum making it possible to use in all kinds of situations and climates.
Since the top and bottom plies appear in reasonable shape you could treat it with the stuff from the inside and let it
wick to the outer surfaces. *Probably need to do some clamping to insure the ply's being restored end up the same
thickness as the undamaged plywood. *Here is a ad for their formulation for warmer environments:
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...oduct.do?pid=1....
Good Luck! *Hope this has helped, regards, Joe.- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
Thanks.
The cocktail game came without leg levelers which obviously is the
reason for the extent of the damage.
Both sides, which are 21-1/2" long, will have to be repaired, so I
guess the best way would be to turn the game upside down and clamp
before using CPES and/or Bondo.
My main concern is filling out the corner where the plywood has
deteriorated away.
But first I'll have to strip the veneer, then repair the damage before
putting new veneer on the side of the game.
Thanks.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.