On Apr 6, 11:46*pm, wrote:
On Apr 6, 8:06 pm, wrote:





This seems oblivious but if you haven't done this start he

1) With the breaker on, identify all dead outlet and switches. Check
every outlet, switch, appliance, junction box and light.

2) Turn breaker off, *identify all dead outlet and switches. Check
ever outlet, switch, appliance, junction box and light.

3) Any device that is dead in step two and is live in step 1 needs to
be checked for problems.

4) If all the devices in step 3 check out then you either missed an
device or junction box or you have a wiring problem between two boxes
and it might be time to call a pro.

n Apr 6, 8:26 pm, wrote:

Hello guys,

I've got a dead circuit in my house. I tested the output of the
breaker, and it's fine. I have also done some research, which
indicates that a tripped GFI outlet could cause the problem, however,
I removed the GFI that's on the dead circuit, and there is no power
going to the GFI even. None of the lines, on that circuit, that I've
located in my house are hot.

Does anyone have some additional troubleshooting ideas?

Thanks,

Trevor

That sounds like some good advice. I haven't, as of yet, been able to
find any live outlets on this circuit. This circuit actually affects a
large number of things, including:

Basement lights
3 power outlets in the living room
1st floor bath - GFI outlet
1st floor bath - fan
1st floor bath - light
Front & Back outdoor a/c outlets
Garage door motor
Alarm system in garage

I still haven't checked a couple light switches though, so I'll have
to see about those.

Thanks,

Trevor- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Quite a lot and a mixture of lights and outlets on that one
circuit????

Under our codes that most likely will be wired with #14AWG and require
no more than a 15 amp circuit breaker.

Sounds as though the best way to to trouble shoot that would be to
follow the voltage from the output of the circuit breaker, as the OP
has done, and then go to each outlet or fixture in turn.

Best device to use would be an electric lamp/bulb screwed into a
socket with two insulated wires sticking out; some testers will give
false readings on voltages picked up by 'induction' from adjacent
working wires.

Voltage is normally between live (mostly black; assuming North
America) and neutral (usually white). But voltage can momentarily be
tested for between live/hot and ground. In fact such a test can
identify an open neutral wire between outlets.

Sounds like there is an open connection inside one of the outlet or
light fixture boxes possibly a deteriorated duple outlet. Hopefully
not one of those with the 'push-in' wire connections!

As mentioned if the GFI is early in the run and protecting everything
else downstream of it it could be defective and therefore affect the
whole circuit.
Small "t" terry