DIYbanter - View Single Post - Should Retrofit Window install use insulation?

aemeijers

wrote:
On Mar 30, 6:11�pm, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 30 Mar 2008 06:12:20 -0700 (PDT), John Ross

wrote:
I'm having a window replaced with a vinyl replacement window. So the
frame of the current window (steel) will be left and the new one has a
lip on the outside that goes beyond the window to the stucco.
I still have to confirm this, but it appears that the company does not
fill in the small gaps from the undersized replacement to the old
frame with any insulation. They caulk the outside fin and then the
inside trim.
Any opinions on if it is important to put some sort of insulation? One
thing I realized was that there would be the vinyl and then about 3
inches of space then the trim vinyl sealing the other side. It
occurred to me that the *glass* only has air in between it too, and a
much smaller gap.
Actually, I am more concerned about noise than anything, and I seem to
recall people in here saying fiberglass insulation does little if
anything for noise.
Is this an issue in the install that I should even be concerned about?
I admit I'm very biased. Use the correct caulk on the vinyl nail fin.
Butyl caulk is my choice. A proper moist wrap tucked around/under
window and siding (stucco). Top piece goes on last. �Imagine how water
flows. Done correct the window won't leak from outside climates.

Before the inside finished trim is done and any trim caulk, fill the
spaces around the window rough opening with the foam material from a
hardware. (backer rod?) is a dense foam and comes in 1/2, 1, and
larger diameters. Cut and pack the empty spaces.

This is the same type foam I use too insulate outside pipes: AC pipes,
water pipes (PVC)....not the same application.

Borg may have a bag if the type for the window insulation.

It WILL insulate the window. It only takes a few minutes, but makes
substantial comfort.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

use the expanding foam from a can, its costly but insulates great,
seals and quiets things too. air infiltration carries noise.......

Make sure you use the LOW-expansion kind, where it says on the can,
'safe for windows'. The regular stuff, in a confined space, can push
hard enough to jam the window solid. Note also that many retrofit window
installers never touch the existing inside trim- in fact that is part
of their sales pitch. The kit is sized to fit the existing casing
exactly. Need to discuss all this with the guy that writes up the order-
if there are weight pockets, etc, you want them filled before they are
covered with the new material and inaccessible. Even if it costs a few
bucks and they have to drill a few holes before they pop the new window
in, it is worth it. If the installers don't do it, homeowner will have
to pry off the inside casing later, and go in that way. Not a big deal,
but if you have never done it before, trimming out a window without
breaking the old trim and trashing the paint on the wall can be a challenge.

--
aem sends...