In aVSPi.63$et1.5@trnddc02, Pop` wrote in part (I edit for space):
sinister wrote:

Tell that to my wife; it's her BR actually. :-)

I couldn't really find a 48" 25W T12 online, so the guy at the light
store gave me a 48" T8 32W. Seems to work OK, though it flickers at
a low rate somewhat.

If you can live with that flickering, then OK. It is, however, a sign that
the bulb is drawing more current than the ballast can supply at the proper
voltage so the voltage starts to drop, the bulb reignites, current drops,
bulb reignites, and so on. If the ballast is aging, you could even get the
same effect with a 25W eventually.

Actually, if this effect does not fix itself in several to a dozen or
two operating hours and a few on/off cycles, then the problem is that the
lamp is being unmderpowered or has an instability. I suspect that in
this particular case this is occurring because the lamp/"bulb" has a
higher voltage requirement than that of the lamp/"bulb" that the ballast
is specified for.

Personally, I'd look around to see what the locals have for bulbs, buy a
compatible ballast, and exchange the ballast for a new one.
Doesn't sound like it's happening to you, but flourescent lightes also
require the fixture to be properly grounded. Just in case it gets to the
point where it won't come on at all.

Grounding does not affect stability if the darn thing comes on.

Still got the 25W on order? Might be the best plan, just switch that in
when it arrives.

BTW, those shoplites actually go well in bathrooms although the fixtures
aren't pretty; they don't have "that light" that makes a woman's face seem
so ugly to themg. It's closer to the blue than the others, I think it is.

In my experience, shop lights make skin look pale and
greenish/yellowish. What does not, even makes skin look a bit more
pinkish than "proper": Upper grade triphosphor fluorescents, including
most non-dollar-store CFLs and also F32 and F17 T8 ones with 8 rather than
7 in the color code preceding 2-digit-abbreviated color temperature, and
with GE this is SPX rather than SP without an X. Also good he Philips
"Ultralume".

Color rendering index of these good ones (majority of colors distorted
in a "more vivid way" and full uncompromised light output) is in the
82-86 range. Fluorescents with color rendering index close to or a
little above 90 can't say the same - the color distortions, though less,
are in the direction of "duller/darker/less-vivid" and light output is
significantly compromised. If CRI is 95-98, colors get close to normal
but light output is reduced a good 30%.

- Don Klipstein )