"Boris Beizer" wrote in message
ink.net...

snip-------

I prefer silver solder with a torch. If the match of the
wire to the hole is good, and the area very clean, then you will use very
little solder -- e.g., a piece about 1mm on a side should do for each
joint.
The silver solder has a yellowish tinge and once soldered, the joint is
almost invisible. A little cleanup with emery or a rubber abrasive wheel
will make it invisible. Use a very fine torch tip -- really fine -- and
remember that you don't heat the solder, but the place to which you want
the
solder to flow.
I do it all the time with the fittings I make for my ship models.
You can't see the joint if you do it right.

Boris

What Boris said. *Exactly* what Boris said. Silver solder, "real" silver
solder, is almost identical in appearance to yellow brass. A properly
fitted joint that has been soldered in keeping with good practice would be
strong, and have a nice corner radius if you use the appropriate amount of
solder. That's the nature of silver solder. The only concern will be that
heating the brass hot enough to solder it will anneal it.

Do not confuse solders with 5% or so silver content with silver solder.
The only thing they have in common is the fact that silver is mentioned in
the names of each one.

Grant, if you need a small amount of silver solder, send my your address on
the side and I'll put a little in the mail to you. You'll need some flux
for silver solder, which is available at welding supply stores.

Harold