On Mar 17, 10:13�am, wrote:
On Fri, 16 Mar 2007 16:25:19 -0400, "Locutus"





wrote:

"Father Haskell" wrote in message
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On Mar 16, 3:15 pm, "Locutus" wrote:
"Father Haskell" wrote in message

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On Mar 16, 12:52 pm, "Pop`" wrote:
wrote:
Ok, I've tried cutting the end with a sawzall, the ends come out
uneven. I tried with a circular, I can't ever seem to get the cuts
to
line up when I flip the wood to do the other side. And the miter saw
I
have just isn't big enough.

I've resorted to having Home Depot cut them there, but they don't do
precision cuts, and sometimes they are too busy and I don't want to
wait.

Add in the fact that sooner or later I'm going to have rough sawn
4x4
that I will have to cut myself regardless.

Besides buying a really big miter/radial arm saw, any suggestions?

Either get more accurate with your skilsaw or use a power sander on
the
cuts. *This is sort of silly.

Especially since dead square post tops are undesirable. *Chamfered or
sloped tops don't hold rainwater, and will last longer.

The OP never said anything about post tops...

Why would anyone want to cut the part that sits buried under 3 feet
of
concrete square?

LOL, the OP just stated he wanted to know how to cut a 4x4 post!!! Unless I
missed a post somewhere, he didn't specify if it were in the ground.
Considering he said he has Home Depot cut them for him, I don't imagine they
are.

It's for a bed post, sorry if I led anyone astray. Although I'm
learning a lot about other techniques even if not for my application.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

And this is why Stanley, and others, used to make hand saw miter boxes
with backsaws that had blades 30" long x 6" deep. Not many still
around, and a decade or so ago when they could still be found, they
were commanding very high prices...I seem to recall seeing one at
around $350.

To get the same capacity, you need to go to a sliding compound miter
saw with a 12" blade, if you insist on power. If you're used to using
a handsaw, it's fairly easy to do freehand if you mark carefully and
follow the marks. With the big Stanley, it's as easy as it gets. With
an SCMS it is even easier, but you're looking at about $600 for the
saw, and the blade that comes with it has a 50-50 chance of being
aimed at the construction market, so you can earmark anywhere from $90
to $150 for a new blade. In truth, I think I'd pop for a decent
handsaw at maybe $45.