On Sat, 14 Feb 2004 10:37:20 GMT, The Hurdy Gurdy Man
wrote:


I've been reading through web pages and old posts about electrolytic rust
removal, and apparently using stainless as an electrode is a no-no due to
toxic waste concerns. As such, a "graphite rod" is the preferred thing.
My question is, when they say "graphite rod" do they mean any specific
type of graphite rod? Could I use rods for carbon arc welding, or
graphite rods used for EDM? Looks like Enco has graphite EDM rods on sale
(or at least they did a little while ago) and I've been wanting to try
removing some rust with this technique, but I'm not sure if these are the
rods I should/can be using or not. Thanks in advance for any assistance!

Just find the cheapest source of graphite that you can. I found some
on eBay.

Whatever you use, remember this: a bit flat piece has much more
surface area than a rod. More surface area = more current. I got
lucky and found some big graphite blocks that I bandsaw into 1/2"
thick plates. (Move your saw outdoors for this. It's a messy job.
Don't set the saw on your driveway, either.)

There's a problem with searching for "graphite" on eBay. You'll get
thousands of listings of tennis racquets to golf clubs to fishing
poles. Instead, search for graphite plate*, graphite stock, graphite
bar*, etc. The * is a wild card that will give you hits on both plate
and plates.

The binder in some types of graphite doesn't hold up well in the
electrolysis vat. I've had some graphite plates dissolve in a day or
so. On the other hand, I've had some graphite last for a year, or
more, under continuous use.

If you have a foundry or mill that uses an electric arc furnace or an
aluminum smelter, nearby, see if you can beg some stub end of their
carbon rods.

Here's a tip: If you have a 3,000 psi pressure washer, use it for
removing the gunk that forms during electrolysis. It works great and
saves lots of elbow grease.

Good luck.

Orrin