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James P Crombie
 
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Default Boring head setup?

Get some carbide insert bars. They have a flat on them to register the
axis of the tool. Plus you can get different inserts for different jobs.
As a rule the inserts will give you a better finish.
If you can't afford them then set your cutting bars in the mill and
use an indicator and stand to set the cutting edge to the mid point of
the shanks dia, then mill a flat on the shank so when you put the cutter
in it always is set. (this is for the brazed tools with the non-hardened
shank) Grind it if you are using hhs or carbide tools.

Harold & Susan Vordos wrote:
"larry g" wrote in message
...

A few days ago I asked about boring with a lathe or mill. After weighing
ideas and my limited experience I am boring with the mill. Now the
question, what is the correct way to set the boring bar in the boring


head?

My boring head is the 1 1/2 criterion square head. To set it up I


installed

the bar, laid the whole assembly on the surface plate and used a square to
set the cutter parallel with the centerline of the head. I figure this
should give a zero rake at the cut, as I'm cutting brass. So far so good.

So is there a correct way to set the tool in a boring head?
lg
no neat sig line


Hi Larry,

My general practice is to set the tool so it's appropriate for the job at
hand. While there may be specific things to remember when boring (and
there usually is), I'm not convinced that there's any hard, fast rules that
dictate that the tool should be inserted in any specific manor. Unless I
have need for the tool to be located in some specific position, I simply
insert the boring bar and set it where it "looks right". Comes with
experience. The only thing to worry about is the rake angle you spoke of,
and of course that the tool feeds in line with the slide. As you rotate
the tool away from dead center, the calibrated feed will lose accuracy. In
your favor, however, it will take less than you dial, so you shouldn't end
up with oversized holes.

Harold



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James P Crombie

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