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The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? Theres gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.
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On Tue, 22 Oct 2019 14:48:26 -0700 (PDT), "Gramps' shop"
wrote:

The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? There’s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.


Outside labor, two fellows ought to do. I built one for our old dryer,
it still sit unused.
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On Tue, 22 Oct 2019 14:48:26 -0700 (PDT), "Gramps' shop"
wrote:

The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? There’s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.


Tilt it, get one end on it, then tilt it the other way and slide it.

Or chat up couple of bodybuilders from the local gym.

Or handtruck and _heave_.

Or make a ramp.

Or one of these, if you can rig something overhead to hook it onto.
https://www.harborfreight.com/1-1-2-half-ton-lever-chain-hoist-66106.html
and a sling (handy thing to have--there are better brands if you don't
mind paying more for not-made-in-China).
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"Gramps' shop" was heard to mutter:
The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? There’s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.


I've seen these in a several places. I'm not trying to poke fun or be
negative, but what purpose do these serve? Is this all about being
vertically challenged?

My mother wanted to raise hers and she's 5'3" no problem loading or
unloading. The installers put the front loaders in a position where
the two open doors are back to back forcing you to pull out and go
around the doors to load the dryer. I went to get a door switch kit,
but you can only do that on a dryer. I'm not able to move these units
around, and the last time a paid guy did, they ripped up the new floor
and it had to be replaced.

Seems we keep making them bigger and with more stuff to simply make
more money and have more breakage. I had a new neighbor replace a set
only one year old because they didn't like the new front loaders. They
thought they took too lond to wash and dry. They threw them away.
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On Wed, 23 Oct 2019 08:27:41 -0400, Casper
wrote:

"Gramps' shop" was heard to mutter:
The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? There’s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.


I've seen these in a several places. I'm not trying to poke fun or be
negative, but what purpose do these serve? Is this all about being
vertically challenged?

My mother wanted to raise hers and she's 5'3" no problem loading or
unloading. The installers put the front loaders in a position where
the two open doors are back to back forcing you to pull out and go
around the doors to load the dryer. I went to get a door switch kit,
but you can only do that on a dryer. I'm not able to move these units
around, and the last time a paid guy did, they ripped up the new floor
and it had to be replaced.

Seems we keep making them bigger and with more stuff to simply make
more money and have more breakage. I had a new neighbor replace a set
only one year old because they didn't like the new front loaders. They
thought they took too lond to wash and dry. They threw them away.

I stacked ours. They were a matched pair of Samsungs. The washer went
TU just after it was off warranty so I replaced it with a Whirlpool
Duet and nhad to modify the stacking kit a bit. They are both left
hand door. Works great. Washer on bottom, drier on top


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On Wednesday, October 23, 2019 at 9:56:25 AM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Wed, 23 Oct 2019 08:27:41 -0400, Casper
wrote:

"Gramps' shop" was heard to mutter:
The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? Theres gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.


I've seen these in a several places. I'm not trying to poke fun or be
negative, but what purpose do these serve? Is this all about being
vertically challenged?

My mother wanted to raise hers and she's 5'3" no problem loading or
unloading. The installers put the front loaders in a position where
the two open doors are back to back forcing you to pull out and go
around the doors to load the dryer. I went to get a door switch kit,
but you can only do that on a dryer. I'm not able to move these units
around, and the last time a paid guy did, they ripped up the new floor
and it had to be replaced.

Seems we keep making them bigger and with more stuff to simply make
more money and have more breakage. I had a new neighbor replace a set
only one year old because they didn't like the new front loaders. They
thought they took too lond to wash and dry. They threw them away.

I stacked ours. They were a matched pair of Samsungs. The washer went
TU just after it was off warranty so I replaced it with a Whirlpool
Duet and nhad to modify the stacking kit a bit. They are both left
hand door. Works great. Washer on bottom, drier on top


I can think of a few reasons.
- Easier to reach storage underneath.
- Elevates them if in a basement or where moisture/water can be a problem.
- Easier to reach in a front loading (not top loading unless you happen to be a professional basketball player) appliance.
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On 10/22/2019 5:48 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? Theres gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.

Our washer went south, and had to be replaced. While waiting for the
new one to be delivered, I considered all possible scenarios to get it
out of the drip pan. (Its on the 2nd floor and the pan is drians to the
sewer.)

When the dryer was delivered I was prepared with all of the things
needed to lift it up, and out of the pan.

I showed the delivery man where it was to go. He looked the situation
over, and lifted the washer out of the pan an moved it down stairs. So
much for my concept of the problem.

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On 10/23/2019 12:25 PM, knuttle wrote:
On 10/22/2019 5:48 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer
and dryer.Â* Easy.Â* But how do I get the machines up on the platform?
Theres gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.

Our washer went south, and had to be replaced.Â* While waiting for the
new one to be delivered, I considered all possible scenarios to get it
out of the drip pan. (Its on the 2nd floor and the pan is drians to the
sewer.)

When the dryer was delivered I was prepared with all of the things
needed to lift it up, and out of the pan.

I showed the delivery man where it was to go.Â* He looked the situation
over, and lifted the washer out of the pan an moved it down stairs.Â* So
much for my concept of the problem.


You can learn a lot watching professional delivery men.

Takeway? Invest $20 or so in those web straps they use in tandem to
move heavy appliances, etc. They rest on their shoulders and function
as a sling to carry the load. Very little bending involved and it's
amazing how much two folks can carry when the weight is properly
distributed.

Takeway 2? Think outside the box and think the problem through. We had
a large double door refrigerator freezer (with the freezer drawer on the
bottom) delivered and I knew that there was no way the appliance could
be moved in with the doors in place due to the depth of the thing.

Guys show up, scope out the situation and one pulls out a screwdriver
and removes the handle on the freezer drawer only. They first opened
both doors of the refrigerator and slide in the doorway and then angled
the unit while closing the first door through the opening, jockeyed it a
bit and got the second door through the opening and the job was done.

Had it been me doing it, I'd probably have been trying to remove all the
handles (a real job a a French door refrigerator).
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On 10/23/2019 8:27 AM, Casper wrote:

Seems we keep making them bigger and with more stuff to simply make
more money and have more breakage. I had a new neighbor replace a set
only one year old because they didn't like the new front loaders. They
thought they took too lond to wash and dry. They threw them away.


They do that for energy savings. Same with dishwashers.

Does not bother me. When its done its done. Usually two loads in a
week so it if takes a long time the next one gets done tomorrow.

Dishwasher gets run either right after breakfast and they are done my
dinner time or it gets run sometime after dinner and it gets uloaded in
the morning.

At work it was about making money so I set production schedules. at
home, makes no difference unless you don't have clean panties.
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On Tuesday, October 22, 2019 at 5:48:29 PM UTC-4, Gramps' shop wrote:
get the machines up on the platform


Depends upon the height to some extent. However the Hand truck combine with the Tilt one end suggestion may prove your best one-man bet. The Dryer's unlikely to prove too tough - but the washer is another (HEAVY) story.

If you can approach from the ramp's sides, slip the hand truck under one side of the machine and tighten the strap! Then you should be able to tilt the thing back toward you and move it forward and let it down onto your platform. (If you build a ramp, well then, roll tide!)

If there is no ramp, then you may need to use a 2by4 under the axle of the hand truck once the edge of the machine is up on your platform. If you've help, the two of you should be able to lift the hand truck and machine and push bothe onto the platform.

Maybe do the Dryer first - practice on the easy machine!

BY THE WAY - I can tell you that you do not want a hernia!




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On Wed, 23 Oct 2019 18:06:34 -0700 (PDT), "(;harles"
wrote:

On Tuesday, October 22, 2019 at 5:48:29 PM UTC-4, Gramps' shop wrote:
get the machines up on the platform


Depends upon the height to some extent. However the Hand truck combine with the Tilt one end suggestion may prove your best one-man bet. The Dryer's unlikely to prove too tough - but the washer is another (HEAVY) story.

If you can approach from the ramp's sides, slip the hand truck under one side of the machine and tighten the strap! Then you should be able to tilt the thing back toward you and move it forward and let it down onto your platform. (If you build a ramp, well then, roll tide!)

If there is no ramp, then you may need to use a 2by4 under the axle of the hand truck once the edge of the machine is up on your platform. If you've help, the two of you should be able to lift the hand truck and machine and push bothe onto the platform.

Maybe do the Dryer first - practice on the easy machine!

BY THE WAY - I can tell you that you do not want a hernia!


Another point to ponder, never underestimate the utility of a car, a
pulley, and a rope as a lifting device. Just be careful, because you
can do a _lot_ of damage that way.

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"Gramps' shop" wrote:

The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? Theres gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.


Attach your homemade pedestals first, then...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8PMv3_YkEw&t=146s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUED5JCK8_4&t=131s
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On Tuesday, October 22, 2019 at 5:48:29 PM UTC-4, Gramps' shop wrote:
The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? Theres gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.


I'm not sure it's a 'trick', but if you can get an attachment point overhead, a wire-rope
comealong can lift and hold the weight of the frontloaders, then just position the
platform and guide the item down onto it. Lag bolts in the ceiling joists?

https://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-cable-winch-puller-61964.html

The problem I had, was how to attach the winch; it took a LOT of straps
and thought to affix a central eye for lifting, because of no handles. I put
loops around the feet, making a rope 'net' and fixing to a lifting bar which
was a scrap of 2x4 with C clamp eyes...

Ropes and cleats could work, but the ratchet is a great improvement. One-man
descent of the heavy washer down a concrete exterior stairwell was a lot
quicker and easier than the strap-up operation.
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On Tue, 22 Oct 2019 14:48:26 -0700 (PDT), "Gramps' shop"
wrote:

The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? There’s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.


Figure out the weight and screw a hook into a 2x that supports the
ceiling, then use a rope block and tackle and a sling to lift the
dryer.

Just remember to move the dryer ductwork as needed.

If you have room, the tilt-one-end-up process also works, as does the
ramp. I used the tilt process to get a dryer in the tiny utility room
at my mother-in-law's house. It had brick walls, with a concrete
block first course, so the dryer had to be up 8+ inches to sit on
plywood resting on the edges of the concrete block. When she had the
dryer replaced, the delivery people had a hard time figuring out how
to get the old one out and the new one in ;-)
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On Thursday, October 24, 2019 at 11:52:30 AM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wrote:
"Gramps' shop" wrote:

The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? Theres gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.


Attach your homemade pedestals first, then...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8PMv3_YkEw&t=146s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUED5JCK8_4&t=131s


Any homemade pedestal better be built strong enough to handle ~250 pounds
on the side as the machine is tilted upwards.

To use that method, it would have to be way overbuilt for it's end purpose.

Doable of course, builder just needs to be aware.


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DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, October 24, 2019 at 11:52:30 AM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wrote:
"Gramps' shop" wrote:

The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? Theres gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.


Attach your homemade pedestals first, then...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8PMv3_YkEw&t=146s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUED5JCK8_4&t=131s


Any homemade pedestal better be built strong enough to handle ~250 pounds
on the side as the machine is tilted upwards.

To use that method, it would have to be way overbuilt for it's end purpose.

Doable of course, builder just needs to be aware.


Pretty sure even these 'butt joint & pocket screwed' fugly beasts
would be strong enough, once the remaining 3/4" skins are glued &
screwed on:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piXXXpIniRw

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On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:16:27 +0000, Spalted Walt
wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, October 24, 2019 at 11:52:30 AM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wrote:
"Gramps' shop" wrote:

The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? There’s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.

Attach your homemade pedestals first, then...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8PMv3_YkEw&t=146s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUED5JCK8_4&t=131s


Any homemade pedestal better be built strong enough to handle ~250 pounds
on the side as the machine is tilted upwards.

To use that method, it would have to be way overbuilt for it's end purpose.

Doable of course, builder just needs to be aware.


Pretty sure even these 'butt joint & pocket screwed' fugly beasts
would be strong enough, once the remaining 3/4" skins are glued &
screwed on:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piXXXpIniRw

At LEAST 50% overkill. I'd say 100% - possibly 200%. A 3/4" fir
plywood box WITHOUT the 2X4s would be strong enough if properly glued.
1/2 inch plywood glued to 2X2 frame would also be overkill if properly
built
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On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:17:01 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:16:27 +0000, Spalted Walt
wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, October 24, 2019 at 11:52:30 AM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wrote:
"Gramps' shop" wrote:

The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? There’s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.

Attach your homemade pedestals first, then...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8PMv3_YkEw&t=146s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUED5JCK8_4&t=131s

Any homemade pedestal better be built strong enough to handle ~250 pounds
on the side as the machine is tilted upwards.

To use that method, it would have to be way overbuilt for it's end purpose.

Doable of course, builder just needs to be aware.


Pretty sure even these 'butt joint & pocket screwed' fugly beasts
would be strong enough, once the remaining 3/4" skins are glued &
screwed on:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piXXXpIniRw

At LEAST 50% overkill. I'd say 100% - possibly 200%. A 3/4" fir
plywood box WITHOUT the 2X4s would be strong enough if properly glued.
1/2 inch plywood glued to 2X2 frame would also be overkill if properly
built


People grossly underestimate the strength of a box. I sometimes to
freak people out by laying a piece of plywood on top of an empty
corrugated box and using it for a step stool. I'm pushing 300 pounds
and the box, if it's in good condition, doesn't move at all.
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On Friday, October 25, 2019 at 8:32:52 PM UTC-4, J. Clarke wrote:
On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:17:01 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:16:27 +0000, Spalted Walt
wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, October 24, 2019 at 11:52:30 AM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wrote:
"Gramps' shop" wrote:

The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? Theres gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.

Attach your homemade pedestals first, then...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8PMv3_YkEw&t=146s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUED5JCK8_4&t=131s

Any homemade pedestal better be built strong enough to handle ~250 pounds
on the side as the machine is tilted upwards.

To use that method, it would have to be way overbuilt for it's end purpose.

Doable of course, builder just needs to be aware.

Pretty sure even these 'butt joint & pocket screwed' fugly beasts
would be strong enough, once the remaining 3/4" skins are glued &
screwed on:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piXXXpIniRw

At LEAST 50% overkill. I'd say 100% - possibly 200%. A 3/4" fir
plywood box WITHOUT the 2X4s would be strong enough if properly glued.
1/2 inch plywood glued to 2X2 frame would also be overkill if properly
built


People grossly underestimate the strength of a box. I sometimes to
freak people out by laying a piece of plywood on top of an empty
corrugated box and using it for a step stool. I'm pushing 300 pounds
and the box, if it's in good condition, doesn't move at all.


Take that same box and use it in the manner shown in the video.

Let's us know how well it handles a 250 lb washing machine, at an angle,
with all the weight on one edge.

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DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Friday, October 25, 2019 at 8:32:52 PM UTC-4, J. Clarke wrote:
On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:17:01 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:16:27 +0000, Spalted Walt
wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, October 24, 2019 at 11:52:30 AM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wrote:
"Gramps' shop" wrote:

The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? Theres gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.

Attach your homemade pedestals first, then...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8PMv3_YkEw&t=146s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUED5JCK8_4&t=131s

Any homemade pedestal better be built strong enough to handle ~250 pounds
on the side as the machine is tilted upwards.

To use that method, it would have to be way overbuilt for it's end purpose.

Doable of course, builder just needs to be aware.

Pretty sure even these 'butt joint & pocket screwed' fugly beasts
would be strong enough, once the remaining 3/4" skins are glued &
screwed on:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piXXXpIniRw
At LEAST 50% overkill. I'd say 100% - possibly 200%. A 3/4" fir
plywood box WITHOUT the 2X4s would be strong enough if properly glued.
1/2 inch plywood glued to 2X2 frame would also be overkill if properly
built


People grossly underestimate the strength of a box. I sometimes to
freak people out by laying a piece of plywood on top of an empty
corrugated box and using it for a step stool. I'm pushing 300 pounds
and the box, if it's in good condition, doesn't move at all.


Take that same box and use it in the manner shown in the video.

Let's us know how well it handles a 250 lb washing machine, at an angle,
with all the weight on one edge.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=liIlW-ovx0Y

.... sorry, I couldn't resist



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On Sat, 26 Oct 2019 14:15:14 +0000, Spalted Walt
wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Friday, October 25, 2019 at 8:32:52 PM UTC-4, J. Clarke wrote:
On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:17:01 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:16:27 +0000, Spalted Walt
wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, October 24, 2019 at 11:52:30 AM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wrote:
"Gramps' shop" wrote:

The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? There’s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.

Attach your homemade pedestals first, then...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8PMv3_YkEw&t=146s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUED5JCK8_4&t=131s

Any homemade pedestal better be built strong enough to handle ~250 pounds
on the side as the machine is tilted upwards.

To use that method, it would have to be way overbuilt for it's end purpose.

Doable of course, builder just needs to be aware.

Pretty sure even these 'butt joint & pocket screwed' fugly beasts
would be strong enough, once the remaining 3/4" skins are glued &
screwed on:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piXXXpIniRw
At LEAST 50% overkill. I'd say 100% - possibly 200%. A 3/4" fir
plywood box WITHOUT the 2X4s would be strong enough if properly glued.
1/2 inch plywood glued to 2X2 frame would also be overkill if properly
built

People grossly underestimate the strength of a box. I sometimes to
freak people out by laying a piece of plywood on top of an empty
corrugated box and using it for a step stool. I'm pushing 300 pounds
and the box, if it's in good condition, doesn't move at all.


Take that same box and use it in the manner shown in the video.

Let's us know how well it handles a 250 lb washing machine, at an angle,
with all the weight on one edge.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=liIlW-ovx0Y

... sorry, I couldn't resist


You're missing the point.

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On Saturday, October 26, 2019 at 10:15:18 AM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Friday, October 25, 2019 at 8:32:52 PM UTC-4, J. Clarke wrote:
On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:17:01 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:16:27 +0000, Spalted Walt
wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, October 24, 2019 at 11:52:30 AM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wrote:
"Gramps' shop" wrote:

The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? Theres gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.

Attach your homemade pedestals first, then...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8PMv3_YkEw&t=146s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUED5JCK8_4&t=131s

Any homemade pedestal better be built strong enough to handle ~250 pounds
on the side as the machine is tilted upwards.

To use that method, it would have to be way overbuilt for it's end purpose.

Doable of course, builder just needs to be aware.

Pretty sure even these 'butt joint & pocket screwed' fugly beasts
would be strong enough, once the remaining 3/4" skins are glued &
screwed on:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piXXXpIniRw
At LEAST 50% overkill. I'd say 100% - possibly 200%. A 3/4" fir
plywood box WITHOUT the 2X4s would be strong enough if properly glued.
1/2 inch plywood glued to 2X2 frame would also be overkill if properly
built

People grossly underestimate the strength of a box. I sometimes to
freak people out by laying a piece of plywood on top of an empty
corrugated box and using it for a step stool. I'm pushing 300 pounds
and the box, if it's in good condition, doesn't move at all.


Take that same box and use it in the manner shown in the video.

Let's us know how well it handles a 250 lb washing machine, at an angle,
with all the weight on one edge.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=liIlW-ovx0Y

... sorry, I couldn't resist


You could have resisted.

(No, I couldn't)

Yes, you could have.

(No, no, I couldn't.)

I told you, you could have.

(No you didn't.)

Yes, I did!

(No you didn't.)

I did!

(You didn't.)

Did.

(Oh look, this isn't an argument.)

Yes it is.

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DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Saturday, October 26, 2019 at 10:15:18 AM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Friday, October 25, 2019 at 8:32:52 PM UTC-4, J. Clarke wrote:
On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:17:01 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:16:27 +0000, Spalted Walt
wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, October 24, 2019 at 11:52:30 AM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wrote:
"Gramps' shop" wrote:

The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? Theres gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.

Attach your homemade pedestals first, then...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8PMv3_YkEw&t=146s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUED5JCK8_4&t=131s

Any homemade pedestal better be built strong enough to handle ~250 pounds
on the side as the machine is tilted upwards.

To use that method, it would have to be way overbuilt for it's end purpose.

Doable of course, builder just needs to be aware.

Pretty sure even these 'butt joint & pocket screwed' fugly beasts
would be strong enough, once the remaining 3/4" skins are glued &
screwed on:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piXXXpIniRw
At LEAST 50% overkill. I'd say 100% - possibly 200%. A 3/4" fir
plywood box WITHOUT the 2X4s would be strong enough if properly glued.
1/2 inch plywood glued to 2X2 frame would also be overkill if properly
built

People grossly underestimate the strength of a box. I sometimes to
freak people out by laying a piece of plywood on top of an empty
corrugated box and using it for a step stool. I'm pushing 300 pounds
and the box, if it's in good condition, doesn't move at all.

Take that same box and use it in the manner shown in the video.

Let's us know how well it handles a 250 lb washing machine, at an angle,
with all the weight on one edge.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=liIlW-ovx0Y

... sorry, I couldn't resist


You could have resisted.

(No, I couldn't)

Yes, you could have.

(No, no, I couldn't.)

I told you, you could have.

(No you didn't.)

Yes, I did!

(No you didn't.)

I did!

(You didn't.)

Did.

(Oh look, this isn't an argument.)

Yes it is.


+1 . . . EGG-ZACKLY!

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On 10/22/2019 6:27 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Tue, 22 Oct 2019 14:48:26 -0700 (PDT), "Gramps' shop"
wrote:

The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? Theres gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.


Tilt it, get one end on it, then tilt it the other way and slide it.


This was my approach. The dryer was easy. I was mostly able to pick the
whole thing up and wiggle it on the platform. The washer I tilted back
and with platform against the wall, I pushed/wiggled washer on.




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On 10/25/2019 3:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:16:27 +0000, Spalted Walt
wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, October 24, 2019 at 11:52:30 AM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wrote:
"Gramps' shop" wrote:

The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? There’s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.

Attach your homemade pedestals first, then...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8PMv3_YkEw&t=146s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUED5JCK8_4&t=131s

Any homemade pedestal better be built strong enough to handle ~250 pounds
on the side as the machine is tilted upwards.

To use that method, it would have to be way overbuilt for it's end purpose.

Doable of course, builder just needs to be aware.


Pretty sure even these 'butt joint & pocket screwed' fugly beasts
would be strong enough, once the remaining 3/4" skins are glued &
screwed on:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piXXXpIniRw

At LEAST 50% overkill. I'd say 100% - possibly 200%. A 3/4" fir
plywood box WITHOUT the 2X4s would be strong enough if properly glued.
1/2 inch plywood glued to 2X2 frame would also be overkill if properly
built


The only thing that bothered me is he glued and screwed the top on.
Screws would have been more than enough. Houses are built on 2x's with
nails. The glue will make it impossible to easily remove the top if you
ever want or need too. The other thing was making a youtube video on
making this?

Oh, and I agree on pre-drilling stuff, but don't agree it's more
important with an impact driver, less important if anything.



--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.


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On Fri, 1 Nov 2019 08:18:37 -0400, Jack wrote:

On 10/25/2019 3:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:16:27 +0000, Spalted Walt
wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, October 24, 2019 at 11:52:30 AM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wrote:
"Gramps' shop" wrote:

The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? There’s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.

Attach your homemade pedestals first, then...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8PMv3_YkEw&t=146s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUED5JCK8_4&t=131s

Any homemade pedestal better be built strong enough to handle ~250 pounds
on the side as the machine is tilted upwards.

To use that method, it would have to be way overbuilt for it's end purpose.

Doable of course, builder just needs to be aware.

Pretty sure even these 'butt joint & pocket screwed' fugly beasts
would be strong enough, once the remaining 3/4" skins are glued &
screwed on:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piXXXpIniRw

At LEAST 50% overkill. I'd say 100% - possibly 200%. A 3/4" fir
plywood box WITHOUT the 2X4s would be strong enough if properly glued.
1/2 inch plywood glued to 2X2 frame would also be overkill if properly
built


The only thing that bothered me is he glued and screwed the top on.
Screws would have been more than enough. Houses are built on 2x's with
nails. The glue will make it impossible to easily remove the top if you
ever want or need too. The other thing was making a youtube video on
making this?

Oh, and I agree on pre-drilling stuff, but don't agree it's more
important with an impact driver, less important if anything.


If you are making it to last, the ability to take it apart is not
important. Glue and a few tacks would be stronger than nails or screws
- and NO chance of splitting. I agree when using an impact driver the
chance of splitting is slightly reduced - but pre-drilling realy does
make sense if you are screwing something together - and sometimes even
when nailing.

There comes a point however when "strong enough" IS strong enough -
and the advantage of glue over screws is hardly worth looking at.
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On Fri, 1 Nov 2019 08:18:37 -0400, Jack wrote:

On 10/25/2019 3:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:16:27 +0000, Spalted Walt
wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, October 24, 2019 at 11:52:30 AM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wrote:
"Gramps' shop" wrote:

The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? There’s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.

Attach your homemade pedestals first, then...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8PMv3_YkEw&t=146s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUED5JCK8_4&t=131s

Any homemade pedestal better be built strong enough to handle ~250 pounds
on the side as the machine is tilted upwards.

To use that method, it would have to be way overbuilt for it's end purpose.

Doable of course, builder just needs to be aware.

Pretty sure even these 'butt joint & pocket screwed' fugly beasts
would be strong enough, once the remaining 3/4" skins are glued &
screwed on:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piXXXpIniRw

At LEAST 50% overkill. I'd say 100% - possibly 200%. A 3/4" fir
plywood box WITHOUT the 2X4s would be strong enough if properly glued.
1/2 inch plywood glued to 2X2 frame would also be overkill if properly
built


The only thing that bothered me is he glued and screwed the top on.
Screws would have been more than enough. Houses are built on 2x's with
nails. The glue will make it impossible to easily remove the top if you
ever want or need too. The other thing was making a youtube video on
making this?


Nails don't hold houses together. Weight holds everything together
and even then, there is a lot of glue in a house. Why would you ever
want to remove the top. Glue will greatly increase the dynamic load
strength of the platform. I might not even use the screws but glue?
Absolutely!

Oh, and I agree on pre-drilling stuff, but don't agree it's more
important with an impact driver, less important if anything.


I don't think it matters as much, with the glue but I'd still
pre-drill.
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Oh, and I agree on pre-drilling stuff,


Really?

How does one pre-drill?

Is it some sort of Zen-like thought process?

Or is the intention to describe drilling pilot holes for screws?



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On Friday, November 1, 2019 at 8:18:46 AM UTC-4, Jack wrote:
On 10/25/2019 3:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:16:27 +0000, Spalted Walt
wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, October 24, 2019 at 11:52:30 AM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wrote:
"Gramps' shop" wrote:

The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? Theres gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.

Attach your homemade pedestals first, then...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8PMv3_YkEw&t=146s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUED5JCK8_4&t=131s

Any homemade pedestal better be built strong enough to handle ~250 pounds
on the side as the machine is tilted upwards.

To use that method, it would have to be way overbuilt for it's end purpose.

Doable of course, builder just needs to be aware.

Pretty sure even these 'butt joint & pocket screwed' fugly beasts
would be strong enough, once the remaining 3/4" skins are glued &
screwed on:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piXXXpIniRw

At LEAST 50% overkill. I'd say 100% - possibly 200%. A 3/4" fir
plywood box WITHOUT the 2X4s would be strong enough if properly glued.
1/2 inch plywood glued to 2X2 frame would also be overkill if properly
built


The only thing that bothered me is he glued and screwed the top on.
Screws would have been more than enough. Houses are built on 2x's with
nails. The glue will make it impossible to easily remove the top if you
ever want or need too. The other thing was making a youtube video on
making this?

Oh, and I agree on pre-drilling stuff, but don't agree it's more
important with an impact driver, less important if anything.



--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.


IMHO, Gluing would be a good idea due to the dynamic loading as a result of washing/drying cycles. Not a static load situation.
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On Saturday, November 2, 2019 at 2:13:36 AM UTC-4, (;harles wrote:
Oh, and I agree on pre-drilling stuff,


Really?

How does one pre-drill?

Is it some sort of Zen-like thought process?

Or is the intention to describe drilling pilot holes for screws?


https://www.lexico.com/en/definition/pre-drilling


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On Sat, 2 Nov 2019 03:28:13 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Friday, November 1, 2019 at 8:18:46 AM UTC-4, Jack wrote:
On 10/25/2019 3:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:16:27 +0000, Spalted Walt
wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, October 24, 2019 at 11:52:30 AM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wrote:
"Gramps' shop" wrote:

The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? There’s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.

Attach your homemade pedestals first, then...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8PMv3_YkEw&t=146s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUED5JCK8_4&t=131s

Any homemade pedestal better be built strong enough to handle ~250 pounds
on the side as the machine is tilted upwards.

To use that method, it would have to be way overbuilt for it's end purpose.

Doable of course, builder just needs to be aware.

Pretty sure even these 'butt joint & pocket screwed' fugly beasts
would be strong enough, once the remaining 3/4" skins are glued &
screwed on:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piXXXpIniRw
At LEAST 50% overkill. I'd say 100% - possibly 200%. A 3/4" fir
plywood box WITHOUT the 2X4s would be strong enough if properly glued.
1/2 inch plywood glued to 2X2 frame would also be overkill if properly
built


The only thing that bothered me is he glued and screwed the top on.
Screws would have been more than enough. Houses are built on 2x's with
nails. The glue will make it impossible to easily remove the top if you
ever want or need too. The other thing was making a youtube video on
making this?

Oh, and I agree on pre-drilling stuff, but don't agree it's more
important with an impact driver, less important if anything.



--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.


IMHO, Gluing would be a good idea due to the dynamic loading as a result of washing/drying cycles. Not a static load situation.


The machine is held together with screws you know, and usually stands
on four 3/8 inch (or 9 or 10mm) bolts.

I mean if you really want to overkill it, put the design in Fusion 360
and make sure there aren't any resonant modes within the range the
machine will product.

And remember that the floor it stands on isn't glued or screwed.
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On Fri, 1 Nov 2019 23:13:32 -0700 (PDT), "(;harles"
wrote:


Oh, and I agree on pre-drilling stuff,


Really?

How does one pre-drill?

Is it some sort of Zen-like thought process?

Or is the intention to describe drilling pilot holes for screws?


pre-drill - to drill before. Pretty basic semantics
Drill before driving screw or nail.
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On Sat, 02 Nov 2019 09:20:40 -0400, J. Clarke
wrote:

On Sat, 2 Nov 2019 03:28:13 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Friday, November 1, 2019 at 8:18:46 AM UTC-4, Jack wrote:
On 10/25/2019 3:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:16:27 +0000, Spalted Walt
wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, October 24, 2019 at 11:52:30 AM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wrote:
"Gramps' shop" wrote:

The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? There’s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.

Attach your homemade pedestals first, then...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8PMv3_YkEw&t=146s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUED5JCK8_4&t=131s

Any homemade pedestal better be built strong enough to handle ~250 pounds
on the side as the machine is tilted upwards.

To use that method, it would have to be way overbuilt for it's end purpose.

Doable of course, builder just needs to be aware.

Pretty sure even these 'butt joint & pocket screwed' fugly beasts
would be strong enough, once the remaining 3/4" skins are glued &
screwed on:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piXXXpIniRw
At LEAST 50% overkill. I'd say 100% - possibly 200%. A 3/4" fir
plywood box WITHOUT the 2X4s would be strong enough if properly glued.
1/2 inch plywood glued to 2X2 frame would also be overkill if properly
built

The only thing that bothered me is he glued and screwed the top on.
Screws would have been more than enough. Houses are built on 2x's with
nails. The glue will make it impossible to easily remove the top if you
ever want or need too. The other thing was making a youtube video on
making this?

Oh, and I agree on pre-drilling stuff, but don't agree it's more
important with an impact driver, less important if anything.



--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.


IMHO, Gluing would be a good idea due to the dynamic loading as a result of washing/drying cycles. Not a static load situation.


The machine is held together with screws you know, and usually stands
on four 3/8 inch (or 9 or 10mm) bolts.

I mean if you really want to overkill it, put the design in Fusion 360
and make sure there aren't any resonant modes within the range the
machine will product.

And remember that the floor it stands on isn't glued or screwed.

Are you sure?????
Many subfloors ARE glued, particularly when used with web truss
joists - and ALL of my subfloors are screwed to the joists. Glued and
screwed floors do NOT squeak.
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On Fri, 1 Nov 2019 23:13:32 -0700 (PDT), "(;harles"
wrote:


Oh, and I agree on pre-drilling stuff,


Really?

How does one pre-drill?

Is it some sort of Zen-like thought process?

Or is the intention to describe drilling pilot holes for screws?


New to woodworking? However, I see that you have your answer.
--
Jerry O.
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On Sat, 02 Nov 2019 16:12:25 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sat, 02 Nov 2019 09:20:40 -0400, J. Clarke
wrote:

On Sat, 2 Nov 2019 03:28:13 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Friday, November 1, 2019 at 8:18:46 AM UTC-4, Jack wrote:
On 10/25/2019 3:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:16:27 +0000, Spalted Walt
wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, October 24, 2019 at 11:52:30 AM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wrote:
"Gramps' shop" wrote:

The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? There’s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.

Attach your homemade pedestals first, then...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8PMv3_YkEw&t=146s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUED5JCK8_4&t=131s

Any homemade pedestal better be built strong enough to handle ~250 pounds
on the side as the machine is tilted upwards.

To use that method, it would have to be way overbuilt for it's end purpose.

Doable of course, builder just needs to be aware.

Pretty sure even these 'butt joint & pocket screwed' fugly beasts
would be strong enough, once the remaining 3/4" skins are glued &
screwed on:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piXXXpIniRw
At LEAST 50% overkill. I'd say 100% - possibly 200%. A 3/4" fir
plywood box WITHOUT the 2X4s would be strong enough if properly glued.
1/2 inch plywood glued to 2X2 frame would also be overkill if properly
built

The only thing that bothered me is he glued and screwed the top on.
Screws would have been more than enough. Houses are built on 2x's with
nails. The glue will make it impossible to easily remove the top if you
ever want or need too. The other thing was making a youtube video on
making this?

Oh, and I agree on pre-drilling stuff, but don't agree it's more
important with an impact driver, less important if anything.



--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.

IMHO, Gluing would be a good idea due to the dynamic loading as a result of washing/drying cycles. Not a static load situation.


The machine is held together with screws you know, and usually stands
on four 3/8 inch (or 9 or 10mm) bolts.

I mean if you really want to overkill it, put the design in Fusion 360
and make sure there aren't any resonant modes within the range the
machine will product.

And remember that the floor it stands on isn't glued or screwed.

Are you sure?????
Many subfloors ARE glued, particularly when used with web truss
joists - and ALL of my subfloors are screwed to the joists. Glued and
screwed floors do NOT squeak.


Oh, you're assuming he has one of those modern cardboard houses.




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On Sat, 02 Nov 2019 16:12:25 -0400, Clare Snyder wrote:

Many subfloors ARE glued, particularly when used with web truss
joists - and ALL of my subfloors are screwed to the joists. Glued and
screwed floors do NOT squeak.

I find this thread interesting. Over engineering and over building adds a
very small percentage of the overall cost to the project.

Detractor: "You could have gotten by with just using ___."

Me: "I didn't want to just get by, For $10, and an hour more work, I went
from adequate to overkill - that's cheap insurance and peace of mind - and
it looks damn good."
--
Jerry O.
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On Saturday, November 2, 2019 at 9:20:44 AM UTC-4, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 2 Nov 2019 03:28:13 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Friday, November 1, 2019 at 8:18:46 AM UTC-4, Jack wrote:
On 10/25/2019 3:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:16:27 +0000, Spalted Walt
wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, October 24, 2019 at 11:52:30 AM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wrote:
"Gramps' shop" wrote:

The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? Theres gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.

Attach your homemade pedestals first, then...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8PMv3_YkEw&t=146s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUED5JCK8_4&t=131s

Any homemade pedestal better be built strong enough to handle ~250 pounds
on the side as the machine is tilted upwards.

To use that method, it would have to be way overbuilt for it's end purpose.

Doable of course, builder just needs to be aware.

Pretty sure even these 'butt joint & pocket screwed' fugly beasts
would be strong enough, once the remaining 3/4" skins are glued &
screwed on:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piXXXpIniRw
At LEAST 50% overkill. I'd say 100% - possibly 200%. A 3/4" fir
plywood box WITHOUT the 2X4s would be strong enough if properly glued.
1/2 inch plywood glued to 2X2 frame would also be overkill if properly
built

The only thing that bothered me is he glued and screwed the top on.
Screws would have been more than enough. Houses are built on 2x's with
nails. The glue will make it impossible to easily remove the top if you
ever want or need too. The other thing was making a youtube video on
making this?

Oh, and I agree on pre-drilling stuff, but don't agree it's more
important with an impact driver, less important if anything.



--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.


IMHO, Gluing would be a good idea due to the dynamic loading as a result of washing/drying cycles. Not a static load situation.


The machine is held together with screws you know, and usually stands
on four 3/8 inch (or 9 or 10mm) bolts.

I mean if you really want to overkill it, put the design in Fusion 360
and make sure there aren't any resonant modes within the range the
machine will product.

And remember that the floor it stands on isn't glued or screwed.


How do you know what kind of floor his laundry equipment is on?

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On Saturday, November 2, 2019 at 4:10:05 PM UTC-4, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Fri, 1 Nov 2019 23:13:32 -0700 (PDT), "(;harles"
wrote:


Oh, and I agree on pre-drilling stuff,


Really?

How does one pre-drill?

Is it some sort of Zen-like thought process?

Or is the intention to describe drilling pilot holes for screws?


pre-drill - to drill before. Pretty basic semantics
Drill before driving screw or nail.


Don't we *always* drill before doing something with the hole?

When I drill a hole before inserting an anchor bolt, should I say I
pre-drilled?

When I drill a hole before pulling a wire through it, should I say I
pre-drilled?

When I drill a starter hole before using my jig saw, should I say I
pre-drilled?

Even though the most common interpretation of pre-drill is, in fact,
to drill before driving a screw or nail, the basic semantics - "to drill
before" doesn't really define what we are drilling "before".

Isn't language fun? ;-)

BTW...Is it pre-drill or predrill?
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Default Laundry platform

On Saturday, November 2, 2019 at 5:14:58 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:


BTW...Is it pre-drill or predrill?


Gramps is a man. It's mandrill.


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Default Laundry platform

On Sat, 02 Nov 2019 16:12:25 -0400, Clare Snyder
wrote:

On Sat, 02 Nov 2019 09:20:40 -0400, J. Clarke
wrote:

On Sat, 2 Nov 2019 03:28:13 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Friday, November 1, 2019 at 8:18:46 AM UTC-4, Jack wrote:
On 10/25/2019 3:17 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Fri, 25 Oct 2019 15:16:27 +0000, Spalted Walt
wrote:

DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, October 24, 2019 at 11:52:30 AM UTC-4, Spalted Walt wrote:
"Gramps' shop" wrote:

The boss has asked me to build a riser for the front-loading washer and dryer. Easy. But how do I get the machines up on the platform? There’s gotta be a trick that one of you guys can share.

Attach your homemade pedestals first, then...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8PMv3_YkEw&t=146s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DUED5JCK8_4&t=131s

Any homemade pedestal better be built strong enough to handle ~250 pounds
on the side as the machine is tilted upwards.

To use that method, it would have to be way overbuilt for it's end purpose.

Doable of course, builder just needs to be aware.

Pretty sure even these 'butt joint & pocket screwed' fugly beasts
would be strong enough, once the remaining 3/4" skins are glued &
screwed on:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piXXXpIniRw
At LEAST 50% overkill. I'd say 100% - possibly 200%. A 3/4" fir
plywood box WITHOUT the 2X4s would be strong enough if properly glued.
1/2 inch plywood glued to 2X2 frame would also be overkill if properly
built

The only thing that bothered me is he glued and screwed the top on.
Screws would have been more than enough. Houses are built on 2x's with
nails. The glue will make it impossible to easily remove the top if you
ever want or need too. The other thing was making a youtube video on
making this?

Oh, and I agree on pre-drilling stuff, but don't agree it's more
important with an impact driver, less important if anything.



--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.

IMHO, Gluing would be a good idea due to the dynamic loading as a result of washing/drying cycles. Not a static load situation.


The machine is held together with screws you know, and usually stands
on four 3/8 inch (or 9 or 10mm) bolts.

I mean if you really want to overkill it, put the design in Fusion 360
and make sure there aren't any resonant modes within the range the
machine will product.

And remember that the floor it stands on isn't glued or screwed.

Are you sure?????
Many subfloors ARE glued, particularly when used with web truss
joists - and ALL of my subfloors are screwed to the joists. Glued and
screwed floors do NOT squeak.


+1

Mine sure are (though there are a couple of places in the master
bedroom that are loose. When I replaced the carpeting in a previous
house, I went through all the rooms and use a few thousand screws
tightening the subflooring. I couldn't glue it but I sure wish the
builder had.
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