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Default Sharpening Stones

Lee Valley's doing free shipping, so I thought I'd take a look at their
offerings. I've got a set of their water slip stones that work nicely,
but I don't want to mess them up for some of the other things I've been
sharpening.

Arkansas stones seem appealing, as do water stones. What do you have
experience with and would recommend? I'll be near a Grizzly in a few
days as well, so if they've got something to look at I'll spend my Lee
Valley money on something else.

I intend to use the stones to handle general sharpening, but do my
chisels on the bench grinder. I might refine the edge on the stones. (If
you don't have a good tool rest you NEED one. It's a totally different
tool with a good tool rest!)

I also refine the edge of 1/4" HSS tool bits for the metal lathe. The
grinder also creates the primary cutting faces for this.

I've got a pocket knife and other assorted cutting tools. I understand
sickle blades are done with a curved stone, not the traditional flat
stone. (The slip stones did a good job. It didn't hurt when the stone
slippped and I sliced my finger.)

What about flattening the stone?

I really don't have any concerns about the primary sharpening, as most of
my primary sharpening and shaping takes place on the bench grinder (the
rest is THAT good.) Would a really fine stone be useful for something
like the metal lathe toolbits? (I know I'm a little off topic here, but
I've noticed a couple members mention their metalworking addiction.)

Before anyone asks, here's the link to the grinder rest:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049RD9YO/

There was a problem with one of them where nothing stayed tightened down
due to sliding surfaces. I used ordinary paper to provide some friction
and it worked great.

Puckdropper
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"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message
b.com...
Lee Valley's doing free shipping, so I thought I'd take a look at their
offerings. I've got a set of their water slip stones that work nicely,
but I don't want to mess them up for some of the other things I've been
sharpening.

Arkansas stones seem appealing, as do water stones. What do you have
experience with and would recommend?


I've shaved with straight razors for 65 years, use Arkansas stones on them
if needed. I have never felt the need to use them on chisels, knives, etc.


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Arkansas stones seem appealing, as do water stones. What do you have
experience with and would recommend?


I quit using Arkansas and switched to diamond, ceramic and hones. I
use diamond if they are in bad shape or need to be reprofiled. I use
ceramic to put a better edge/angle on it. I hone on leather, cork or
sandpaper for razor sharpness. I have been seen honing on cardboard
when nothing else was at hand. On rare occasion, I still use an
Arkansas only if it's the only option I have on hand. I find ceramic
stones stay cleaner, flatter and are simpler to use. No oil, water or
mess and clean up with an old toothbrush or eraser.

I intend to use the stones to handle general sharpening, but do my
chisels on the bench grinder.


I've never used a bench grinder for sharpening. I do not like how much
material it takes off, the heat that builds, or the noise and mess.

I've got a pocket knife and other assorted cutting tools. I understand
sickle blades are done with a curved stone, not the traditional flat
stone. (The slip stones did a good job. It didn't hurt when the stone
slippped and I sliced my finger.)


I've used mostly flat stones of various sizes for the size of the
tool. For extremely large blades, I move a small stone along the
length. Yes, I have sharpened and restored swords.

For the few curved tools I own, I have a couple curved slipstones and
a profiled leather hone board for the various shapes.

What about flattening the stone?


Never used one or have had a need to as my stones are still flat.

I really don't have any concerns about the primary sharpening, as most of
my primary sharpening and shaping takes place on the bench grinder (the
rest is THAT good.) Would a really fine stone be useful for something
like the metal lathe toolbits?


Most turners I know use a grinder or Tormek. I could not justify the
cost of a Tormek. I picked up various shaped stones for my turning
tools and carving tools. Takes be a but longer if the edge is torn up
but I usually touch up edges as I work so I've never had a need to
grind them. Only once I needed that when I picked up a used tool and
then the guys at the local wood store let me try the Tormek on it.

(I know I'm a little off topic here, but I've noticed a couple members
mention their metalworking addiction.) Puckdropper


I love sharp pointy things. Does that count for metalworking?

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On Monday, July 17, 2017 at 7:49:33 AM UTC-5, Casper wrote:
Arkansas stones seem appealing, as do water stones. What do you have
experience with and would recommend?


I quit using Arkansas and switched to diamond, ceramic and hones. I
use diamond if they are in bad shape or need to be reprofiled. I use
ceramic to put a better edge/angle on it. I hone on leather, cork or
sandpaper for razor sharpness. I have been seen honing on cardboard
when nothing else was at hand. On rare occasion, I still use an
Arkansas only if it's the only option I have on hand. I find ceramic
stones stay cleaner, flatter and are simpler to use. No oil, water or
mess and clean up with an old toothbrush or eraser.

I intend to use the stones to handle general sharpening, but do my
chisels on the bench grinder.


I've never used a bench grinder for sharpening. I do not like how much
material it takes off, the heat that builds, or the noise and mess.

I've got a pocket knife and other assorted cutting tools. I understand
sickle blades are done with a curved stone, not the traditional flat
stone. (The slip stones did a good job. It didn't hurt when the stone
slippped and I sliced my finger.)


I've used mostly flat stones of various sizes for the size of the
tool. For extremely large blades, I move a small stone along the
length. Yes, I have sharpened and restored swords.

For the few curved tools I own, I have a couple curved slipstones and
a profiled leather hone board for the various shapes.

What about flattening the stone?


Never used one or have had a need to as my stones are still flat.

I really don't have any concerns about the primary sharpening, as most of
my primary sharpening and shaping takes place on the bench grinder (the
rest is THAT good.) Would a really fine stone be useful for something
like the metal lathe toolbits?


Most turners I know use a grinder or Tormek. I could not justify the
cost of a Tormek. I picked up various shaped stones for my turning
tools and carving tools. Takes be a but longer if the edge is torn up
but I usually touch up edges as I work so I've never had a need to
grind them. Only once I needed that when I picked up a used tool and
then the guys at the local wood store let me try the Tormek on it.

(I know I'm a little off topic here, but I've noticed a couple members
mention their metalworking addiction.) Puckdropper


I love sharp pointy things. Does that count for metalworking?

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I use a slow speed 8" grinder and wolverine jig for my turning gouges. The skews and all my bench chisels, paring chisels and plane irons I sharpen on diamond (4000) and then finish on wet/dry sandpaper, going up to 2500. I also set them at 25degrees.
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"Puckdropper" wrote in message
b.com...

Arkansas stones seem appealing, as do water stones. What do you have
experience with and would recommend?


Any system will work... that said, I mostly use Arkansas bench stones though
I do have some course artificial stones to put relief in edges. Most of the
stones I bought about 30 years ago and added a large black stone maybe 15
years ago. I also have a two wheel slow speed vertical grinder, a slow speed
vertical grinder with a course wheel, a horizontal blade/knife grinder with
water drip, angle grinder, valve grinder, and myriad files, slips, and other
specialty stones. I acquired different sharpening items as the needs arose.
I'm now set up to sharpen everything from kitchen knives to hand and powered
woodworking tools, lawn mower blades, chainsaw chains, brush cutting blades,
brush hooks, ditch bank blades, shovels, picks, post hole diggers, loppers,
saws, etc. I must say that there is something special about being able to
shave the hair off your arm with a machete. ;~)

If you buy a good set of large Arkansas stones they'll last you a lifetime
without flattening if you use the whole stone rather than hollowing out some
areas through repeated use of those areas. Yes it will cost you
$200.00-300.00 for a bench set of large soft, medium, hard, and black hard
stones but viewed as a lifetime investment it's not so bad. Avoid buying the
less expensive stones... they are either too small and limited when it comes
to working on plane irons and large knives, or the thin ones are that are
glued to a wooden base only have one usable side. A large course artificial
stone speed up creating relief or repairing damaged tools. I've got a large
Norton stone for such purposes but a good quality diamond stone would be a
fine substitute.



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On Monday, July 17, 2017 at 8:34:49 AM UTC-5, Dr. Deb wrote:
On Monday, July 17, 2017 at 7:49:33 AM UTC-5, Casper wrote:



I use a slow speed 8" grinder and wolverine jig for my turning gouges. The skews and all my bench chisels, paring chisels and plane irons I sharpen on diamond (4000) and then finish on wet/dry sandpaper, going up to 2500. I also set them at 25degrees.


Someday I will invest in a slow grinder for my turning tools. For bench tools, I use the scary sharp system with a metal honing jig w/ wheel. I glued 4 different 1/2 sheets with increasingly fine grits to a flat ceramtic floor tile and work through them. Sometimes I'll very lightly use a bench grinder for the initial profile. I also mark a notch on my tools or plane blades that match a mark on my honing jig so I stay consistent with the angle. This system may not be the absolute best but it's fast and easy.
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Casper wrote in
:

I quit using Arkansas and switched to diamond, ceramic and hones. I
use diamond if they are in bad shape or need to be reprofiled. I use
ceramic to put a better edge/angle on it. I hone on leather, cork or
sandpaper for razor sharpness. I have been seen honing on cardboard
when nothing else was at hand. On rare occasion, I still use an
Arkansas only if it's the only option I have on hand. I find ceramic
stones stay cleaner, flatter and are simpler to use. No oil, water or
mess and clean up with an old toothbrush or eraser.


Do you use any sort of compound?

I intend to use the stones to handle general sharpening, but do my
chisels on the bench grinder.


I've never used a bench grinder for sharpening. I do not like how much
material it takes off, the heat that builds, or the noise and mess.


I won't argue the noise and mess, but it really does do a good job with
the right jig. I've gotten better edges off the grinder and honed with a
Work Sharp than I ever did running through the grits. I wonder if the
hollow grind has anything to do with it?


I've used mostly flat stones of various sizes for the size of the
tool. For extremely large blades, I move a small stone along the
length. Yes, I have sharpened and restored swords.

For the few curved tools I own, I have a couple curved slipstones and
a profiled leather hone board for the various shapes.


Do you consider a Machette to be a form of sword? I was kinda thinking
about how similar it looks. I've got a better edge on the machette than
I used to, but haven't quite found the right technique yet.

Do you create a rounded bevel? I saw that suggested for some chisels as
a way to keep more metal near the cutting edge while still allowing the
cutting edge to cut easily.



(I know I'm a little off topic here, but I've noticed a couple
members
mention their metalworking addiction.) Puckdropper


I love sharp pointy things. Does that count for metalworking?


Sometimes! Do you like smooth round things as well? We use the sharp
pointy things to make smooth round things. :-)

Puckdropper
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On Tuesday, July 18, 2017 at 11:05:28 PM UTC-5, wrote:

Do you consider a Machette to be a form of sword? I was kinda thinking
about how similar it looks. I've got a better edge on the machette than
I used to, but haven't quite found the right technique yet.


Machetes are brush/grass cutters that are made for field use. Typically a high carbon steel, they are made to be sharpened with the most crude tools available to the user. They are hardened to a Rockwell of less than 50 pts (not all, and RC testing is pointless as quality control on most machete production is poor, which is why they are cheap!) making them easy to sharpen with a #8 Mill ******* file.

To get a "convex" edge on my thicker camp machete, I use my 1x30 belt sander and grind just above the platen, making it almost like a slack belt grinder. Then touch up with a file as needed. You would be surprised at how easy this technique is, and widely used it is by outdoorsmen.

Do you create a rounded bevel? I saw that suggested for some chisels as
a way to keep more metal near the cutting edge while still allowing the
cutting edge to cut easily.


Here is a look at the different edge profiles that are readily achieved for edged tools:

https://www.finestknife.com/knife-edges-101-guide/

I think a convex edge would be very poor for a chisel as that is the way most chisels wind up, whether it was intended or not. Convex is still good for hogging out material, but you can't do a planing push cut, nor can you hold a line when mortising. Try it; make a mark in a piece of soft wood and drive your chisel in at the mark. You will see it functions as a splitter, opening both sides of your line instead of keeping one side at a 90.

At least that's my experience.

Robert
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wrote:
On Tuesday, July 18, 2017 at 11:05:28 PM UTC-5, wrote:

Do you consider a Machette to be a form of sword? I was kinda thinking
about how similar it looks. I've got a better edge on the machette than
I used to, but haven't quite found the right technique yet.


Machetes are brush/grass cutters that are made for field use. Typically a high carbon steel, they are made to be sharpened with the most crude tools available to the user. They are hardened to a Rockwell of less than 50 pts (not all, and RC testing is pointless as quality control on most machete production is poor, which is why they are cheap!) making them easy to sharpen with a #8 Mill ******* file.

To get a "convex" edge on my thicker camp machete, I use my 1x30 belt sander and grind just above the platen, making it almost like a slack belt grinder. Then touch up with a file as needed. You would be surprised at how easy this technique is, and widely used it is by outdoorsmen.

Do you create a rounded bevel? I saw that suggested for some chisels as
a way to keep more metal near the cutting edge while still allowing the
cutting edge to cut easily.


Here is a look at the different edge profiles that are readily achieved for edged tools:

https://www.finestknife.com/knife-edges-101-guide/

I think a convex edge would be very poor for a chisel as that is the way most chisels wind up, whether it was intended or not. Convex is still good for hogging out material, but you can't do a planing push cut, nor can you hold a line when mortising. Try it; make a mark in a piece of soft wood and drive your chisel in at the mark. You will see it functions as a splitter, opening both sides of your line instead of keeping one side at a 90.

At least that's my experience.

Robert

A convex or double angle edge works pretty good for a cold chisel.
Would never use it on a wood chisel.

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Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com was heard to mutter:
Do you use any sort of compound?


Yes. For most hardened metals I use Flexcut Gold. I've got a ton of
it, lasts forever, and works very well.

For other metal types, especially softer, I use a couple different
compounds. Mostly green and red but occasionally white and black.

I've used those on leather, cork and even cardboard. Nifty trick to
sharpen up a pocketknife using nothing but a tiny bit of compound and
a piece of cardboard box. Gets lots of Ooohs and Ahhhs.

I intend to use the stones to handle general sharpening, but do my
chisels on the bench grinder.

Stones work well for general shapening.

I won't argue the noise and mess, but it really does do a good job with
the right jig. I've gotten better edges off the grinder and honed with a
Work Sharp than I ever did running through the grits. I wonder if the
hollow grind has anything to do with it?


Hollow grinds can be tough w/o a turning stone. I've got a few old
Cutco's that are very difficult to sharpen any other way. For those
kinds of things I stick to slow and wet wheel grinding or belts.

Cutco resharpens, BUT are now known to send new knives instead. My set
is over 60 years old and I have yet to see another set like it.

Do you consider a Machette to be a form of sword? I was kinda thinking
about how similar it looks. I've got a better edge on the machette than
I used to, but haven't quite found the right technique yet.


Ha! Sorta. Machete is a tool, albeit a long one. I no longer own one.

I do a lot of sharpening and restoration. I just finished a German
carving set (knife, fork and steel hone) for my BiL. His grandfather's
well used but not well cared for set with stag handles badly dried,
steel heavily scratched/chipped, and silver bolsters black. Now looks
almost new. One partial scratch still on knife (almost gone) left only
because further work would remove maker stamp. Now saddest thing about
this set is the box, basically covered cardboard and falling apart.

Two items I received last week to start work on are two steel swords.
One is 50" long, 39" blade and weighs approx 7lbs. The second is 39"
long, 32" blade and weighs approx 2lbs. Pommels are large steel balls.
Handles wrapped in leather and twisted copper wire.

They belong to a friend would not let me do anything with them. Oddly
he had me clean and preserve his Spanish sword. These two have a fair
amount of rust and have darkened. Friend is moving. I asked what his
plans were for them and he said to give them to me. Now they are mine
and await restoration. I have a plan to embelish them a bit. Once
done, I may sell the larger and just keep the smaller. I'm getting too
old to play with those heavy blades anymore.

Do you create a rounded bevel? I saw that suggested for some chisels as
a way to keep more metal near the cutting edge while still allowing the
cutting edge to cut easily.


You mean a convex edge? If so, for certain tools and knives I do.
Usually axes and bushcraft style knives. It really depends on the
tool, what it's intended purpose is, and metal type.

I love sharp pointy things. Does that count for metalworking?


Sometimes! Do you like smooth round things as well? We use the sharp
pointy things to make smooth round things. :-)
Puckdropper


Yes, I like smooth rounds things too. I have made a few of those too.

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Do you consider a Machette to be a form of sword? I was kinda thinking
about how similar it looks. I've got a better edge on the machette than
I used to, but haven't quite found the right technique yet.


What angle are you sharpening them at?

These CAN be used as a machete...
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...20-Brandts.jpg

Do you create a rounded bevel? ... Puckdropper


Swords I linked currently have very dull convex edges. They're not
really intended for cutting. I will reprofile the edges on at least
one but not make them very sharp for safety reasons. They can however
be made very sharp. I may also create a wall mount for them. They were
made to be carried, and sheaths are available, but bad to store steel
in leather and you can't really see it to appreciate it that way.

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Check out John's post on abpw, "Mans Ingenuity".

http://www.delorie.com/wood/abpw/
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Sonny wrote:
Check out John's post on abpw, "Mans Ingenuity".

http://www.delorie.com/wood/abpw/

Thanks for that link. I see that stuff on the internet never really
goes away. There was ol' Lew! I miss him.

BTW what was that first picture supposed to depict?

--
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On Thursday, July 20, 2017 at 10:21:20 AM UTC-5, G Ross wrote:


BTW what was that first picture supposed to depict?

--
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Looks like an old drill (upside down) with a pulley attached/chucked up, the belt of which would drive the lower pulley, which has a grinding stone on the arbor/axle (left side).... all attached to a backboard (metal plate?), mounted on the wall.

Sonny
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Sonny wrote:
Check out John's post on abpw, "Mans Ingenuity".

http://www.delorie.com/wood/abpw/



That's a fancy pencil holder... : )

Bill


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On Monday, July 17, 2017 at 8:34:49 AM UTC-5, Dr. Deb wrote:


I use a slow speed 8" grinder and wolverine jig for my turning gouges. The skews and all my bench chisels, paring chisels and plane irons I sharpen on diamond (4000) and then finish on wet/dry sandpaper, going up to 2500. I also set them at 25degrees.


I picked up a Work Shop WS-3000 for $45.00 on Craiglist today to sharpen my lathe tools. Has anyone used it for this purpose? Any advice?

Thanks,

Mike

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On Monday, July 24, 2017 at 9:39:45 AM UTC-5, Michael wrote:

I picked up a Work Shop WS-3000 for $45.00 on Craiglist today to sharpen my lathe tools. Has anyone used it for this purpose? Any advice?

Thanks,

Mike


I don't know how people do that. Around here, I have watched Craigslist off and on for years, and never have I seen a bargain.

Anyway, the 3000 does all kinds of great things, and folks have developed their own appliances and jigs to use with it to sharpen just about anything. (A word or warning... don't be tempted to sharpen your knives on the 3000, not even with their guide system.)

To get a good look at what is possible, go to YouTube and search "Worksharp". Lots of good videos, sure something there to at least give you an idea on technique, use of grits, etc.

Robert

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On Monday, July 24, 2017 at 12:00:25 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Monday, July 24, 2017 at 9:39:45 AM UTC-5, Michael wrote:

I picked up a Work Shop WS-3000 for $45.00 on Craiglist today to sharpen my lathe tools. Has anyone used it for this purpose? Any advice?

Thanks,

Mike


I don't know how people do that. Around here, I have watched Craigslist off and on for years, and never have I seen a bargain.

Anyway, the 3000 does all kinds of great things, and folks have developed their own appliances and jigs to use with it to sharpen just about anything. (A word or warning... don't be tempted to sharpen your knives on the 3000, not even with their guide system.)

To get a good look at what is possible, go to YouTube and search "Worksharp". Lots of good videos, sure something there to at least give you an idea on technique, use of grits, etc.

Robert


Robert,

Thanks for the great information! I didn't realize it was so versatile.

I set up IFTTT.com to send me an email any new Craigslist posts with the word "woodworking." I've bought a few things that way. IFTTT sends an email about 2 hours after the initial Craigslist post.

Mike
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wrote in message
...

On Monday, July 24, 2017 at 9:39:45 AM UTC-5, Michael wrote:


I picked up a Work Shop WS-3000 for $45.00 on Craiglist today to sharpen
my lathe tools. Has anyone used it for this purpose? Any advice?

Thanks,

Mike


I don't know how people do that. Around here, I have watched Craigslist
off and on for years, and never have I seen a bargain.


Robert


The best deals I have found were the result of checking Craigslist multiple
times each day... and having cash in hand and being able to move quickly.
I've had people pull in the seller's driveway behind me (floor sander)...
The good stuff at good prices goes very fast!

When I post stuff for sale I'm not trying to get the last dollar out of it,
I'm usually trying to get rid of it for the space it takes up. I put an
Ikea loft bed on there last fall for about 60% of what others were asking
for the same bed. When the buyer showed up she asked for more off... I
knocked another bit off that got it down to about 50% of the others. Little
did she know I would have given it to her to get it out of my house! LOL




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The best deals I have found were the result of checking Craigslist multiple
times each day... and having cash in hand and being able to move quickly.
I've had people pull in the seller's driveway behind me (floor sander)...
The good stuff at good prices goes very fast!


I manually search when I have time but mainly I use their feature to
create your own searches which can be set to message you when an item
(like woodworking, saw, etc.,) comes up new.

James Wright talks about it in his YouTube videos as that is how he
gets his cheap or free wood and tools...

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbM...TpO5MQQnNwkCHg

When I post stuff for sale I'm not trying to get the last dollar out of it,
I'm usually trying to get rid of it for the space it takes up. I put an
Ikea loft bed on there last fall for about 60% of what others were asking
for the same bed. When the buyer showed up she asked for more off... I
knocked another bit off that got it down to about 50% of the others. Little
did she know I would have given it to her to get it out of my house! LOL
John Grossbohlin


Got any tools or other things you still need to get rid of?? (smile)

It always amazes me how people try to talk you down even though they
already know they are getting a good deal. I do my homework to keep my
prices fair based on cost and condition.

I sold a secretary+hutch not long ago. Solid cherry, 40+ years old,
and still looked new. No damage except one spot on top of desk where
movers had damaged it and then attempted a (bad) repair. It was hidden
when the hutch was on so I never bothered to repair it further. I sold
it to a woman who I let talk me down another 20%. It was already 60%
less than others in worse shape that were listed. I sold it to her
because I was tired of seeing it sit unused anymore. Better someone
else use and love it than it collect dust in my house.

Funny part is she was not interested in the matching chair. I never
told her the story of how long and hard my mother searched to get that
chair. It was a special custom order that took almost a year to get.
The lone chair stis in my guest room until sold or redone more modern.

I've gotten to the point where I no longer want things around that are
unused or take up space that could be put to better use.

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On Tuesday, July 25, 2017 at 9:39:39 AM UTC-5, Casper wrote:

It always amazes me how people try to talk you down even though they
already know they are getting a good deal. I do my homework to keep my
prices fair based on cost and condition.


Yep, and some sellers seem unreasonable with their asking prices, also, like these folks:
https://lafayette.craigslist.org/atq...234461301.html

At that price, it better not have (which looks, to me, like) replacement shelves and they better have and state a known/accomplished maker's name, as provenance. It was originally posted about a week or so ago and the description and other wording has been changed..... one aspect being that they claim to have paid more, than the asking price. Altered posting, as that, IMO, are red flags.

I assume ".... 19" in debth" is a misspelling/misnomer, but maybe not....
http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=debth
..... hence the asking price.

Sonny
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Sonny writes:
On Tuesday, July 25, 2017 at 9:39:39 AM UTC-5, Casper wrote:
=20
It always amazes me how people try to talk you down even though they
already know they are getting a good deal. I do my homework to keep my
prices fair based on cost and condition.


Yep, and some sellers seem unreasonable with their asking prices, also, lik=
e these folks:
https://lafayette.craigslist.org/atq...ana/623446130=
1.html

At that price, it better not have (which looks, to me, like) replacement sh=
elves and they better have and state a known/accomplished maker's name, as =
provenance. It was originally posted about a week or so ago and the descri=
ption and other wording has been changed..... one aspect being that they cl=
aim to have paid more, than the asking price. Altered posting, as that, I=
MO, are red flags.

I assume ".... 19" in debth" is a misspelling/misnomer, but maybe not....
http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=3Ddebth
.... hence the asking price.


I do like the 16" wide solid cherry shiplap backboards, but not for $18k.
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Sonny writes:
On Tuesday, July 25, 2017 at 9:39:39 AM UTC-5, Casper wrote:
=20
It always amazes me how people try to talk you down even though they
already know they are getting a good deal. I do my homework to keep my
prices fair based on cost and condition.


Yep, and some sellers seem unreasonable with their asking prices, also, lik=
e these folks:
https://lafayette.craigslist.org/atq...ana/623446130=
1.html

At that price, it better not have (which looks, to me, like) replacement sh
elves and they better have and state a known/accomplished maker's name, as
provenance. It was originally posted about a week or so ago and the descri
ption and other wording has been changed..... one aspect being that they cl
aim to have paid more, than the asking price. Altered posting, as that, I
MO, are red flags.


"The approximate time frame is 1800 to 1830" = early *19th* century

(for 18K they should at least get the century right

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"Sonny" wrote in message
...

On Tuesday, July 25, 2017 at 9:39:39 AM UTC-5, Casper wrote:


It always amazes me how people try to talk you down even though they
already know they are getting a good deal. I do my homework to keep my
prices fair based on cost and condition.


Yep, and some sellers seem unreasonable with their asking prices, also,
like these folks:
https://lafayette.craigslist.org/atq...234461301.html


At that price, it better not have (which looks, to me, like) replacement
shelves and they better have and state a known/accomplished maker's name,
as provenance. It was originally posted about a week or so ago and the
description and other wording has been changed..... one aspect being that
they claim to have paid more, than the asking price. Altered posting, as
that, IMO, are red flags.


I assume ".... 19" in debth" is a misspelling/misnomer, but maybe not....
http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=debth
.... hence the asking price.


Sonny


18th century isn't 1800-1830 either... It seems too good and clean to be 200
years old. Perhaps it is a more recent piece made in the style?


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On Tuesday, July 25, 2017 at 10:03:31 PM UTC-5, John Grossbohlin wrote:

18th century isn't 1800-1830 either... It seems too good and clean to be 200
years old. Perhaps it is a more recent piece made in the style?


More red flags.... Same people have another very similar armoire.
https://lafayette.craigslist.org/atq...236012299.html

I believe these cabinets were recently made. Back in the 1800s, a home's tax was based on the number of rooms in the house, so homes didn't have closets. A closet was considered a room. They had armoires for clothes storage. There are no accommodations for hanging clothes in these cabinets, hence, I don't think they date back to the 1800s.


Sonny


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Growing up in our family grocery store we used a triple stone setup with a
mineral oil basin below. My dad taught me how to hold and sweep a knife to
get a nice straight 20 degree edge. It took a lot of practice, but even now
when I sharpen a knife on a stone the edge taper is nice and flat. Some may
argue that it should be 17, and others may argue that some should be 25, but
I found the 20 degree edge (or the edge I felt was 20 degrees) held up very
well with only boning knives needing to be resharpened very often. We had a
steel, but it was never used or needed. We simply did not get rolled edges.
All the knives in our meat department were modestly inexpensive Forschner
knives except for one elcheapo fillet knife I had a shallower angle on and
used for showing off to cut tomatoes paper thin with a single swipe. Again,
except for the boning knives I almost never had to do more than dress the
edges of the blades with the finest of the three stones. Even the boning
knives rarely needed more than that. Usually only after training a new meat
cutter, or if I had been on vacation for a few weeks. These were knives
that got used for work every single day. They were not my private set.
These were communally used by every single person who worked in the meat
department.

If I saw somebody using a steel on a knife I knew I would have a little more
work to do on that knife. It was a sure sign they had taken the knife to
the stones and changed my edge geometry.

The key in my opinion to most knives is to figure out the best edge geometry
for your use and maintain the blade. It may vary depending on how you use
it. Remember a thin edge does cut easier and faster, but it also rolls and
wears easier and faster. I keep most of my knives at 20 degrees, but I do
have about a 25 degree edge on my parang as it mostly gets used for chopping
brush and wood. Yes, my fish fillet knives are shallower, but I also have
to touch up the tip where it bumps along the ribs more often.




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"Bob La Londe" wrote in message news
For stuff I do not want touching up my oil stones I rough them on a bench
sander, and finish with some cheap crap Diamond hones I got from Harbor
Freight. The diamond hones also work nicely for finishing hand ground
cobalt HSS lathe bits.


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"Bob La Londe" wrote in
news
Growing up in our family grocery store we used a triple stone setup
with a mineral oil basin below. My dad taught me how to hold and
sweep a knife to get a nice straight 20 degree edge. It took a lot of
practice, but even now when I sharpen a knife on a stone the edge
taper is nice and flat.

*snip*

I had some trouble with that the other day. I was thinking about building
a jig, but what makes things hard is my pocket knife has a gentle curve at
the end (like many do). Do you have any suggestions, or could you go into
detail about the technique you use?

I was just looking for knife sharpening information last night. Good
timing. :-)

Puckdropper
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A mini archive of some of rec.woodworking's best and worst!
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"Puckdropper" wrote in message
eb.com...

"Bob La Londe" wrote in
news
Growing up in our family grocery store we used a triple stone setup
with a mineral oil basin below. My dad taught me how to hold and
sweep a knife to get a nice straight 20 degree edge. It took a lot of
practice, but even now when I sharpen a knife on a stone the edge
taper is nice and flat.

*snip*

I had some trouble with that the other day. I was thinking about building
a jig, but what makes things hard is my pocket knife has a gentle curve at
the end (like many do). Do you have any suggestions, or could you go into
detail about the technique you use?

I was just looking for knife sharpening information last night. Good
timing. :-)

Puckdropper
***********************
I visualize the blade sitting on a wedge. As you sweep around the curve the
back of the blade picks up and sweeps back slightly, but the angle from the
contact point to the back of the blade in a line along the stone remains the
same. Most people have a problem with that part and they get a shallower
angle on the curve of the blade. Its sharper, but it folds over easier.

The line that you use to determine your angle should be perpendicular to the
tangent of the curve at the contact point with the stone. LOL.



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Bob La Londe wrote:


"Puckdropper" wrote in message
eb.com...

"Bob La Londe" wrote in
news
Growing up in our family grocery store we used a triple stone setup
with a mineral oil basin below. My dad taught me how to hold and
sweep a knife to get a nice straight 20 degree edge. It took a lot of
practice, but even now when I sharpen a knife on a stone the edge
taper is nice and flat.

*snip*

I had some trouble with that the other day. I was thinking about
building
a jig, but what makes things hard is my pocket knife has a gentle
curve at
the end (like many do). Do you have any suggestions, or could you go
into
detail about the technique you use?

I was just looking for knife sharpening information last night. Good
timing. :-)

Puckdropper
***********************
I visualize the blade sitting on a wedge. As you sweep around the
curve the back of the blade picks up and sweeps back slightly, but the
angle from the contact point to the back of the blade in a line along
the stone remains the same. Most people have a problem with that part
and they get a shallower angle on the curve of the blade. Its
sharper, but it folds over easier.

The line that you use to determine your angle should be perpendicular
to the tangent of the curve at the contact point with the stone. LOL


Is proper sharpening achieved by rotating the blade as you draw it
across the stone--so that you maintain this angle?


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On Wednesday, July 26, 2017 at 11:33:04 AM UTC-5, Bob La Londe wrote:
Growing up in our family grocery store we used a triple stone setup with a
mineral oil basin below. My dad taught me how to hold and sweep a knife to
get a nice straight 20 degree edge. It took a lot of practice, but even now
when I sharpen a knife on a stone the edge taper is nice and flat. Some may
argue that it should be 17, and others may argue that some should be 25, but
I found the 20 degree edge (or the edge I felt was 20 degrees) held up very
well with only boning knives needing to be resharpened very often. We had a
steel, but it was never used or needed. We simply did not get rolled edges.
All the knives in our meat department were modestly inexpensive Forschner
knives except for one elcheapo fillet knife I had a shallower angle on and
used for showing off to cut tomatoes paper thin with a single swipe. Again,
except for the boning knives I almost never had to do more than dress the
edges of the blades with the finest of the three stones. Even the boning
knives rarely needed more than that. Usually only after training a new meat
cutter, or if I had been on vacation for a few weeks. These were knives
that got used for work every single day. They were not my private set.
These were communally used by every single person who worked in the meat
department.

If I saw somebody using a steel on a knife I knew I would have a little more
work to do on that knife. It was a sure sign they had taken the knife to
the stones and changed my edge geometry.

The key in my opinion to most knives is to figure out the best edge geometry
for your use and maintain the blade. It may vary depending on how you use
it. Remember a thin edge does cut easier and faster, but it also rolls and
wears easier and faster. I keep most of my knives at 20 degrees, but I do
have about a 25 degree edge on my parang as it mostly gets used for chopping
brush and wood. Yes, my fish fillet knives are shallower, but I also have
to touch up the tip where it bumps along the ribs more often.


That was a great post, Bob.

I learned to sharpen free hand when I was a very young kid, as my Dad got me a knife early on and checked it often to make sure I kept it sharp. He subscribed to the "sharp knives don't cut people, but dull knives do". I had a knack for it, and always had a knife in my pocket, even in elementary school, and it was always sharp.

My affair with my cutlery goes on today. Learning to sharpen free hand has made me able to sharpen, hone or touch up just about any knife to shaving sharp after I set the bevel I want.

I have really enjoyed the newer steels that are out now and have all kinds of them. Some are beyond hard and require diamond hones to sharpen. My hunting and kitchen knives are all stainless, but not that hard as I sharpen them frequently on my 1200gr diamond rod to keep them as sharp as possible.

I agree with your comment to sharpen to the use for the knife, as I put different angles on many of my knives based on their use. Hard use knives (my daily work knives that get all the crap work on the job) have fairly blunt angles on them. My kitchen cutters have pretty low angles to slice meats and veggies and the steel is soft enough (probably around 56 on the Rockwell) that they are easy to resharpen. Like you, due to the way I sharpen I don't have edge roll.

Not too many folks can sharpen a knife well these days, and even fewer can do it free hand. I sharpen knives for some of my friends, and when they bring me their knives we are both embarrassed by how dull they are. Try as I might, I can't get them to sharpen properly. A great deal of the problem is that they won't practice to build the muscle memory needed to cut the edge bevels the same on both sides. It works out, though. I sharpen their knives, and they keep me in some really nice cigars!

Robert
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" wrote in
:

*snip*


Not too many folks can sharpen a knife well these days, and even fewer
can do it free hand. I sharpen knives for some of my friends, and
when they bring me their knives we are both embarrassed by how dull
they are. Try as I might, I can't get them to sharpen properly. A
great deal of the problem is that they won't practice to build the
muscle memory needed to cut the edge bevels the same on both sides. It
works out, though. I sharpen their knives, and they keep me in some
really nice cigars!

Robert


I made a simple jig that helped quite a bit. All it is is simply a block
of wood cut to the desired angle. Placed at one end of the stone, the
knife is placed against the stone and jig and that angle is held through
the stroke.

There's a commercial version out there, but it only takes two cuts on the
saw to make.

Puckdropper
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On Saturday, July 29, 2017 at 3:07:13 AM UTC-5, wrote:
" wrote in
:

*snip*


Not too many folks can sharpen a knife well these days, and even fewer
can do it free hand. I sharpen knives for some of my friends, and
when they bring me their knives we are both embarrassed by how dull
they are. Try as I might, I can't get them to sharpen properly. A
great deal of the problem is that they won't practice to build the
muscle memory needed to cut the edge bevels the same on both sides. It
works out, though. I sharpen their knives, and they keep me in some
really nice cigars!

Robert


I made a simple jig that helped quite a bit. All it is is simply a block
of wood cut to the desired angle. Placed at one end of the stone, the
knife is placed against the stone and jig and that angle is held through
the stroke.

There's a commercial version out there, but it only takes two cuts on the
saw to make.

Puckdropper


Yes, here's a picture similar to the one I keep in the kitchen. You only have to keep the blade straight up and down to get the right angle. I attach water stones to mine with a rubber band.

https://cdn.instructables.com/FAI/YQ...8.RECT2100.jpg
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