Making railings out of 2x6 stock, 122 in long. The center will be dadoed for the pickets. The flat faces will have slopes near the edges created by table saw.
Is there any way to slightly round off the corner where the sloping top face meets the remaining (about 3/4 in.) vertical edge. Other than sand paper.
Think homemade threshold where the slight top slope meets the edge.
Thank you!

Ivan Vegvary writes:
Making railings out of 2x6 stock, 122 in long. The center will be dadoed for the pickets. The flat faces will have slopes near the edges created by table saw.
Is there any way to slightly round off the corner where the sloping top face meets the remaining (about 3/4 in.) vertical edge. Other than sand paper.
Think homemade threshold where the slight top slope meets the edge.
Thank you!

Use a block plane, jack plane or fore plane.

On Friday, April 28, 2017 at 8:48:20 AM UTC-5, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
Making railings out of 2x6 stock, 122 in long. The center will be dadoed for the pickets. The flat faces will have slopes near the edges created by table saw.
Is there any way to slightly round off the corner where the sloping top face meets the remaining (about 3/4 in.) vertical edge. Other than sand paper.
Think homemade threshold where the slight top slope meets the edge.
Thank you!

Grind a scraper profile using an old saw blade (either handsaw blade or circular saw blade) and scrape the profile? Possibly, form/grind a profiled blade (iron) that fits into a hand plane?

Sonny

On Fri, 28 Apr 2017 06:48:15 -0700 (PDT), Ivan Vegvary
wrote:

Making railings out of 2x6 stock, 122 in long. The center will be dadoed for the pickets. The flat faces will have slopes near the edges created by table saw.
Is there any way to slightly round off the corner where the sloping top face meets the remaining (about 3/4 in.) vertical edge. Other than sand paper.
Think homemade threshold where the slight top slope meets the edge.
Thank you!

Block plane and sand paper or router and sanding, me I would go with a
1/4" round over bit.

Markem, use a roundover bit riding on what surface?
Using a plane soumds easiest. Did not think of that.

On Fri, 28 Apr 2017 08:11:58 -0700 (PDT), Ivan Vegvary
wrote:

Markem, use a roundover bit riding on what surface?
Using a plane soumds easiest. Did not think of that.

The 3/4 " left???

Plane and sanding vs router probably about the same amount time
invested.

Markem writes:
On Fri, 28 Apr 2017 08:11:58 -0700 (PDT), Ivan Vegvary
wrote:

Markem, use a roundover bit riding on what surface?
Using a plane soumds easiest. Did not think of that.

The 3/4 " left???

Plane and sanding vs router probably about the same amount time
invested.

I think you haven't visualized the problem sufficiently. A router
cannot acomplish Ivan's task.

A _______ B
/ \
/ \
| |
| |
-------------

End-on view of rail.

Ivan wishes to soften the corners A & B. Note that the slope
will be much shallower than the ASCII graphics above.

Sonny wrote in
:

On Friday, April 28, 2017 at 8:48:20 AM UTC-5, Ivan Vegvary wrote:
Making railings out of 2x6 stock, 122 in long. The center will be
dadoed for the pickets. The flat faces will have slopes near the
edges created by table saw. Is there any way to slightly round off
the corner where the sloping top face meets the remaining (about 3/4
in.) vertical edge. Other than sand paper. Think homemade threshold
where the slight top slope meets the edge. Thank you!

Grind a scraper profile using an old saw blade (either handsaw blade
or circular saw blade) and scrape the profile? Possibly, form/grind a
profiled blade (iron) that fits into a hand plane?

Man, I hate people who cut up old handsaws instead of using
them as handsaws.

Anyway, a slight roundover like the OP is talking about is
a job for a block plane. It's just 3 or 4 strokes, and will
go very quickly even on a 10' plank (it didn't take me long
to take a 12', square stock to completely round, when I made
the mast for my little dinghy).

John

On Friday, April 28, 2017 at 4:56:58 PM UTC-5, John McCoy wrote:

Man, I hate people who cut up old handsaws instead of using
them as handsaws.


Yeah... understood and agree.

I meant for one that isn't usable, anymore, like the broken saw blade I used for making my first cabinet scraper, which I still have, but rarely use.

Sometimes, I don't think of how my comments are taken, as I think of them, at the spur of the writing moment. And probably the effect of my long term salvage/recycle (and maybe improvise) mindset, also. This isn't the first time I've thought of a way to do something, only to realize there is a better, more simple way. Oftentimes, my first thoughts, this way, amounts to creating more work, for myself, than is required.

I'm now realizing, simply, the hand plane is the best suggestion, after all..

Sonny

Sonny wrote in
:

On Friday, April 28, 2017 at 4:56:58 PM UTC-5, John McCoy wrote:

Man, I hate people who cut up old handsaws instead of using
them as handsaws.


Yeah... understood and agree.

I kind of figured you did, but there's an awful lot of people
who don't realize that 20 minutes or so with a file and an
old saw, and you have something far better than any new saw
(I didn't realize myself how easy it was, until the first
time I tried).

I'm now realizing, simply, the hand plane is the best suggestion,
after all.

That's another one where, if you've never done it, you don't
realize how quick & easy it is to make a small roundover.
And for a fence it doesn't even matter if there's small
facets, nature will smooth them fast enough.

John

On Fri, 28 Apr 2017 20:18:44 GMT, (Scott Lurndal)
wrote:

Markem writes:
On Fri, 28 Apr 2017 08:11:58 -0700 (PDT), Ivan Vegvary
wrote:

Markem, use a roundover bit riding on what surface?
Using a plane soumds easiest. Did not think of that.

The 3/4 " left???

Plane and sanding vs router probably about the same amount time
invested.

I think you haven't visualized the problem sufficiently. A router
cannot acomplish Ivan's task.

A _______ B
/ \
/ \
| |
| |
-------------

End-on view of rail.

Ivan wishes to soften the corners A & B. Note that the slope
will be much shallower than the ASCII graphics above.

With the router in a table setup easily accomplished, I have done it.

On Saturday, April 29, 2017 at 8:27:39 AM UTC-5, Sonny wrote:

Sometimes, I don't think of how my comments are taken, as I think of them, at the spur of the writing moment. And probably the effect of my long term salvage/recycle (and maybe improvise) mindset, also. This isn't the first time I've thought of a way to do something, only to realize there is a better, more simple way. Oftentimes, my first thoughts, this way, amounts to creating more work, for myself, than is required.

I do that as well. On occasion I do make things harder than they need to be, especially when trying to salvage a tool, salvage materials, etc.

I don't do it now, but I would sit and work on a 20 year old drill for an hour taking it apart to replace brushes and bearings and trigger. I had to get them out of the drill as I couldn't order parts for it without the numbers on the part since the drill had been out of production for so long. Cost of trigger: $48. Cost of brushes: $15. Cost of bearings: $30. New parts: $93. Plus an hour to take it apart, 2 hours total with travel to the Milwaukee service center, and an hour or more (depending on the bearing install) to complete the task. Cost of a new Milwaukee with a warranty, new motor and no muss, no fuss: about $100.

Years ago I was also prone to use whatever I had on hand to work on projects, salvage being part of that. Sometimes working around defects in material is just too time consuming to be worthwhile. It seems like you should be saving money, and as Depression Era parents taught me, you are doing the right thing. I just doesn't always work that way, though. In hindsight, is seems to rarely work well for me.

Robert