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Default Wood filler recommendation for exterior use

Need to fill a split in an exterior board - what brand(s) of wood filler perform well in
this application after priming and painting?

Thanks.

Doug
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Default Wood filler recommendation for exterior use

On Monday, February 13, 2017 at 5:31:39 PM UTC-8, Doug wrote:
Need to fill a split in an exterior board - what brand(s) of wood filler perform well in
this application after priming and painting?


If it's under zero stress, maybe you can get away with putty (I like Dap glazing compound).
Better, though, to replace the board. You don't have any control of the interior
moisture, it's gonna move after you apply any patch.
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Default Wood filler recommendation for exterior use

On Mon, 13 Feb 2017 19:31:42 -0600, Doug wrote:

Need to fill a split in an exterior board - what brand(s) of wood filler perform well in
this application after priming and painting?


I've used a variety of stuff from rotdoctor.com, with good results.

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On Monday, February 13, 2017 at 8:31:39 PM UTC-5, Doug wrote:
Need to fill a split in an exterior board - what brand(s) of wood filler perform well in
this application after priming and painting?

Thanks.

Doug


DuraGlas

Typically available anywhere Bondo is sold.

I used it to repair a rotted window sill. It's going on ten years which includes 10 rust belt winters.
Still holding strong.

http://uschem.com/index.cfm?page=productDetail&id=52

http://www.uschem.com/products/docs/TDS_Duraglas1.pdf
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Thank you for the DuraGlas recommendation. Did you use Fiberglass backing when repairing
the window sill? Was there any shrinkage / reduction in volume after the material was
fully cured? What did you topcoat with - primer and paint or the materials recommended in
the data sheet?

Thanks again!


DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Monday, February 13, 2017 at 8:31:39 PM UTC-5, Doug wrote:
Need to fill a split in an exterior board - what brand(s) of wood filler perform well in
this application after priming and painting?

Thanks.

Doug


DuraGlas

Typically available anywhere Bondo is sold.

I used it to repair a rotted window sill. It's going on ten years which includes 10 rust belt winters.
Still holding strong.

http://uschem.com/index.cfm?page=productDetail&id=52

http://www.uschem.com/products/docs/TDS_Duraglas1.pdf




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Thanks to all for the recommendations. Replacing the board is certainly the best long
term solution. The condition is the result of a defective board being installed by some
less than competant remodelers and not being identified by myself before it was painted.

Doug






Doug wrote:

Need to fill a split in an exterior board - what brand(s) of wood filler perform well in
this application after priming and painting?

Thanks.

Doug


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Default Wood filler recommendation for exterior use

On Tuesday, February 14, 2017 at 1:30:29 AM UTC-5, Doug wrote:
Thank you for the DuraGlas recommendation. Did you use Fiberglass backing when repairing
the window sill? Was there any shrinkage / reduction in volume after the material was
fully cured? What did you topcoat with - primer and paint or the materials recommended in
the data sheet?

Thanks again!


DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Monday, February 13, 2017 at 8:31:39 PM UTC-5, Doug wrote:
Need to fill a split in an exterior board - what brand(s) of wood filler perform well in
this application after priming and painting?

Thanks.

Doug


DuraGlas

Typically available anywhere Bondo is sold.

I used it to repair a rotted window sill. It's going on ten years which includes 10 rust belt winters.
Still holding strong.

http://uschem.com/index.cfm?page=productDetail&id=52

http://www.uschem.com/products/docs/TDS_Duraglas1.pdf


I did not use fiberglass. I slightly overfilled the voids with the DuraGlas, just like you would
with Bondo or dry wall mud and then sanded it smooth. Primed with exterior primer, painted
with exterior paint.

Because of the fiberglass in the product it's a lot harder to sand than wood, Bondo, drywall mud,
etc.

You also might want to gouge the split or undercut it to give the DuraGlas something to
hold onto. Give it some "teeth" to lock it in.
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Default Wood filler recommendation for exterior use


"Doug" wrote in message
...
Need to fill a split in an exterior board - what brand(s) of wood filler
perform well in
this application after priming and painting?

Thanks.

Doug


Splits can be iffy. I wouldn't use any rigid filler, I'd use a caulk, then
prime and paint.


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Default Wood filler recommendation for exterior use


Need to fill a split in an exterior board - what brand(s) of wood filler
perform well in this application after priming and painting?
Thanks.
Doug



Splits can be iffy. I wouldn't use any rigid filler, I'd use a caulk, then
prime and paint.



Caulking - that was my first thought also... but don't know
the size of the crack. Normal caulk will only work up-to
a certain size opening. Perhaps a specialty caulking ?
John T.
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Default Wood filler recommendation for exterior use

On 02/14/2017 6:04 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
....

I did not use fiberglass. I slightly overfilled the voids with the
DuraGlas, just like you would with Bondo or dry wall mud and then
sanded it smooth. Primed with exterior primer, painted with exterior
paint.

....


What was the form of the voids? I used both Bondo and a
fiberglass-enhanced version to repair areas on the barn siding when did
the refurb on it. Most did _NOT_ hold up to the temperature cycling and
wind-induced movement of the wood substrate more than 5 yr or so(*). I
can imagine if were larger, deeper voids it _might_ be more successful,
but for surface damage I can't recommend bondo as being very permanent
based on the results I've had...not sure _any_ inflexible material will
stand up.


(*) Noticed the other day, ring-shank siding nails driven into 100-yo
first cut SYP wall studs have worked out where heads may be as much as
1/8" or more proud of surface. The buffeting of KS wind just causes so
much movement even they don't hold permanently...

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Default Wood filler recommendation for exterior use

On Mon, 13 Feb 2017 19:31:42 -0600, Doug wrote:

Need to fill a split in an exterior board - what brand(s) of wood filler perform well in
this application after priming and painting?

Thanks.


Durham's Rock Hard Water Putty
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Default Wood filler recommendation for exterior use

On 2/13/2017 8:31 PM, Doug wrote:
Need to fill a split in an exterior board - what brand(s) of wood filler perform well in
this application after priming and painting?

Thanks.

Doug


Use dap exterior grade caulk

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Default Wood filler recommendation for exterior use

On Tuesday, February 14, 2017 at 10:52:28 AM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
On 02/14/2017 6:04 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
...

I did not use fiberglass. I slightly overfilled the voids with the
DuraGlas, just like you would with Bondo or dry wall mud and then
sanded it smooth. Primed with exterior primer, painted with exterior
paint.

...


What was the form of the voids? I used both Bondo and a
fiberglass-enhanced version to repair areas on the barn siding when did
the refurb on it. Most did _NOT_ hold up to the temperature cycling and
wind-induced movement of the wood substrate more than 5 yr or so(*). I
can imagine if were larger, deeper voids it _might_ be more successful,
but for surface damage I can't recommend bondo as being very permanent
based on the results I've had...not sure _any_ inflexible material will
stand up.



I'll wager that barn siding subjected to KS winds moves a lot more than a first floor
window sill on a 2 story colonial in the rust belt.

If my window sill moved enough to dislodge DuraGlas I'd move too. ;-)
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Default Wood filler recommendation for exterior use

Thanks again to all for the benefit of their experience.

Max. width of the void is ~1/4 - 3/8 in., and perhaps 10-12 in. OAL, tapering at each end.

Use of filler will be temporary until this board and others are replaced.

Doug


wrote:


Need to fill a split in an exterior board - what brand(s) of wood filler
perform well in this application after priming and painting?
Thanks.
Doug



Splits can be iffy. I wouldn't use any rigid filler, I'd use a caulk, then
prime and paint.



Caulking - that was my first thought also... but don't know
the size of the crack. Normal caulk will only work up-to
a certain size opening. Perhaps a specialty caulking ?
John T.


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Default Wood filler recommendation for exterior use

dadiOH,

Thank you for the reply. I want to take the opportunioty to Thank You agian for the
recommendations, guidance, and confidence you provided regarding refinishing my mahagony
front door with Z Spar Flagship varnish. That was the best, most valuable input I have
ever recevied for a home improvement project. The door still looks great almost 4 years
later although a touch here and there may be beneficial.

Doug


"dadiOH" wrote:


"Doug" wrote in message
.. .
Need to fill a split in an exterior board - what brand(s) of wood filler
perform well in
this application after priming and painting?

Thanks.

Doug


Splits can be iffy. I wouldn't use any rigid filler, I'd use a caulk, then
prime and paint.




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Default Wood filler recommendation for exterior use

On Tuesday, February 14, 2017 at 8:02:49 PM UTC-6, Doug wrote:
dadiOH,

Thank you for the reply. I want to take the opportunioty to Thank You agian for the
recommendations, guidance, and confidence you provided regarding refinishing my mahagony
front door with Z Spar Flagship varnish. That was the best, most valuable input I have
ever recevied for a home improvement project. The door still looks great almost 4 years
later although a touch here and there may be beneficial.

Doug


"dadiOH" wrote:


"Doug" wrote in message
.. .
Need to fill a split in an exterior board - what brand(s) of wood filler
perform well in
this application after priming and painting?

Thanks.

Doug


Splits can be iffy. I wouldn't use any rigid filler, I'd use a caulk, then
prime and paint.


Doug -

You will rarely, if ever, see dadiOH give bad advice. I do all manner of repair and finishing for a living and have to say his advice is usually spot on.

As was his thoughts on splits; wood moves on its own based on temps. Hard fillers aren't the ticket as they have no elasticity, and if the wood moves the patch material separates from the perimeter of the patch from repeated movement.

Epoxies, resins and their cousins are fine for interior use as you are usually repairing a piece that is acclimated to inside humidity from AC/furnace controls, so humidity doesn't fluctuate wildly. Nor do the temps. Most of the time they aren't your optimal choice for exterior use.

Again, as he said, your best bet for splits, cracks wind shake, is a good caulk. To do all my repair sealing, I use the ALEX 40 year with silicone that is available at the home stores. It hold paint very well, has great adhesion, shrinks only a tiny bit, tools well and has something like 10% elasticity when cured.

Robert
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Default Wood filler recommendation for exterior use

On 2/15/2017 1:40 AM, wrote:
On Tuesday, February 14, 2017 at 8:02:49 PM UTC-6, Doug wrote:
dadiOH,

Thank you for the reply. I want to take the opportunioty to Thank
You agian for the recommendations, guidance, and confidence you
provided regarding refinishing my mahagony front door with Z Spar
Flagship varnish. That was the best, most valuable input I have
ever recevied for a home improvement project. The door still looks
great almost 4 years later although a touch here and there may be
beneficial.

Doug


"dadiOH" wrote:


"Doug" wrote in message
...
Need to fill a split in an exterior board - what brand(s) of
wood filler perform well in this application after priming and
painting?

Thanks.

Doug

Splits can be iffy. I wouldn't use any rigid filler, I'd use a
caulk, then prime and paint.


Doug -

You will rarely, if ever, see dadiOH give bad advice. I do all manner
of repair and finishing for a living and have to say his advice is
usually spot on.

As was his thoughts on splits; wood moves on its own based on temps.
Hard fillers aren't the ticket as they have no elasticity, and if the
wood moves the patch material separates from the perimeter of the
patch from repeated movement.

Epoxies, resins and their cousins are fine for interior use as you
are usually repairing a piece that is acclimated to inside humidity
from AC/furnace controls, so humidity doesn't fluctuate wildly. Nor
do the temps. Most of the time they aren't your optimal choice for
exterior use.

Again, as he said, your best bet for splits, cracks wind shake, is a
good caulk. To do all my repair sealing, I use the ALEX 40 year with
silicone that is available at the home stores. It hold paint very
well, has great adhesion, shrinks only a tiny bit, tools well and has
something like 10% elasticity when cured.

Robert


Coming in late here but Butyl, printable, caulk remains very flexible
for years on end and fills gaps pretty nicely. It is kinda messy though.
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Default Wood filler recommendation for exterior use

On Wednesday, February 15, 2017 at 9:14:29 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 2/15/2017 1:40 AM, wrote:
On Tuesday, February 14, 2017 at 8:02:49 PM UTC-6, Doug wrote:
dadiOH,

Thank you for the reply. I want to take the opportunioty to Thank
You agian for the recommendations, guidance, and confidence you
provided regarding refinishing my mahagony front door with Z Spar
Flagship varnish. That was the best, most valuable input I have
ever recevied for a home improvement project. The door still looks
great almost 4 years later although a touch here and there may be
beneficial.

Doug


"dadiOH" wrote:


"Doug" wrote in message
...
Need to fill a split in an exterior board - what brand(s) of
wood filler perform well in this application after priming and
painting?

Thanks.

Doug

Splits can be iffy. I wouldn't use any rigid filler, I'd use a
caulk, then prime and paint.


Doug -

You will rarely, if ever, see dadiOH give bad advice. I do all manner
of repair and finishing for a living and have to say his advice is
usually spot on.

As was his thoughts on splits; wood moves on its own based on temps.
Hard fillers aren't the ticket as they have no elasticity, and if the
wood moves the patch material separates from the perimeter of the
patch from repeated movement.

Epoxies, resins and their cousins are fine for interior use as you
are usually repairing a piece that is acclimated to inside humidity
from AC/furnace controls, so humidity doesn't fluctuate wildly. Nor
do the temps. Most of the time they aren't your optimal choice for
exterior use.

Again, as he said, your best bet for splits, cracks wind shake, is a
good caulk. To do all my repair sealing, I use the ALEX 40 year with
silicone that is available at the home stores. It hold paint very
well, has great adhesion, shrinks only a tiny bit, tools well and has
something like 10% elasticity when cured.

Robert


Coming in late here but Butyl, printable, caulk remains very flexible
for years on end and fills gaps pretty nicely. It is kinda messy though.


I have also found that polyurethane caulks have a tenacious grip, and hold paint well...
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Default Wood filler recommendation for exterior use

On 2/15/17 8:14 AM, Leon wrote:
On 2/15/2017 1:40 AM, wrote:
On Tuesday, February 14, 2017 at 8:02:49 PM UTC-6, Doug wrote:
dadiOH,

Thank you for the reply. I want to take the opportunioty to
Thank You agian for the recommendations, guidance, and confidence
you provided regarding refinishing my mahagony front door with Z
Spar Flagship varnish. That was the best, most valuable input I
have ever recevied for a home improvement project. The door
still looks great almost 4 years later although a touch here and
there may be beneficial.

Doug


"dadiOH" wrote:


"Doug" wrote in message
...
Need to fill a split in an exterior board - what brand(s) of
wood filler perform well in this application after priming
and painting?

Thanks.

Doug

Splits can be iffy. I wouldn't use any rigid filler, I'd use
a caulk, then prime and paint.


Doug -

You will rarely, if ever, see dadiOH give bad advice. I do all
manner of repair and finishing for a living and have to say his
advice is usually spot on.

As was his thoughts on splits; wood moves on its own based on
temps. Hard fillers aren't the ticket as they have no elasticity,
and if the wood moves the patch material separates from the
perimeter of the patch from repeated movement.

Epoxies, resins and their cousins are fine for interior use as you
are usually repairing a piece that is acclimated to inside
humidity from AC/furnace controls, so humidity doesn't fluctuate
wildly. Nor do the temps. Most of the time they aren't your
optimal choice for exterior use.

Again, as he said, your best bet for splits, cracks wind shake, is
a good caulk. To do all my repair sealing, I use the ALEX 40 year
with silicone that is available at the home stores. It hold paint
very well, has great adhesion, shrinks only a tiny bit, tools well
and has something like 10% elasticity when cured.

Robert


Coming in late here but Butyl, printable, caulk remains very
flexible for years on end and fills gaps pretty nicely. It is kinda
messy though.


When going the caulk route, it's important to follow the manufacturer's
specs for filler strips. You can't just fill a huge void with caulk and
walk away. If it's over a certain width/depth (usually 3/8"-1/2" max),
you need to put those foam backer rods in the space, under the caulk.
Too many people neglect this important step, then blame the caulk for
failing. Caulk expands and contracts like an accordion. It can only be
adhered on 2 opposite sides. If it's adhered to 3 adjacent sides, it
will pull away from one, opening up a gap. Even if it's applied to 2
sides, properly, if the gap is wider than the manufacturer's specs it
will either crack in the middle or pull away from one side.


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"Doug" wrote in message
...
dadiOH,

Thank you for the reply. I want to take the opportunioty to Thank You
agian for the
recommendations, guidance, and confidence you provided regarding
refinishing my mahagony
front door with Z Spar Flagship varnish. That was the best, most valuable
input I have
ever recevied for a home improvement project. The door still looks great
almost 4 years
later although a touch here and there may be beneficial.

Doug


I am pleased that I was able to help you.




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wrote in message
...

Doug -

You will rarely, if ever, see dadiOH give bad advice. I do all manner of
repair and finishing for a living and have to say his advice is usually spot
on.

Thanks for the kudos. I try to keep my mouth shut about things about which
I do not know.


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Default Wood filler recommendation for exterior use

Thank you Robert! Considering the time that has passed and the number of folks you
correspond with, you may have forgotten the several exchanges we had in this forum
regarding best practices and materials for finishing a red oak model display stand I built
for my dad. While it is an indoor only item - it looks as good as the day I finished it,
which indicates I properly followed your very specific instructions. I find experimenting
and learning from one's mistakes valuable - although in that instance was under the gun
schedule wise and could not afford to mess it up and start over - back to the belt sander
as I recall you commented.

Doug



" wrote:

On Tuesday, February 14, 2017 at 8:02:49 PM UTC-6, Doug wrote:
dadiOH,

Thank you for the reply. I want to take the opportunioty to Thank You agian for the
recommendations, guidance, and confidence you provided regarding refinishing my mahagony
front door with Z Spar Flagship varnish. That was the best, most valuable input I have
ever recevied for a home improvement project. The door still looks great almost 4 years
later although a touch here and there may be beneficial.

Doug


"dadiOH" wrote:


"Doug" wrote in message
.. .
Need to fill a split in an exterior board - what brand(s) of wood filler
perform well in
this application after priming and painting?

Thanks.

Doug

Splits can be iffy. I wouldn't use any rigid filler, I'd use a caulk, then
prime and paint.


Doug -

You will rarely, if ever, see dadiOH give bad advice. I do all manner of repair and finishing for a living and have to say his advice is usually spot on.

As was his thoughts on splits; wood moves on its own based on temps. Hard fillers aren't the ticket as they have no elasticity, and if the wood moves the patch material separates from the perimeter of the patch from repeated movement.

Epoxies, resins and their cousins are fine for interior use as you are usually repairing a piece that is acclimated to inside humidity from AC/furnace controls, so humidity doesn't fluctuate wildly. Nor do the temps. Most of the time they aren't your optimal choice for exterior use.

Again, as he said, your best bet for splits, cracks wind shake, is a good caulk. To do all my repair sealing, I use the ALEX 40 year with silicone that is available at the home stores. It hold paint very well, has great adhesion, shrinks only a tiny bit, tools well and has something like 10% elasticity when cured.

Robert


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Default Wood filler recommendation for exterior use

On Friday, February 17, 2017 at 7:03:43 PM UTC-6, Doug wrote:

Thank you Robert! Considering the time that has passed and the number of folks you
correspond with, you may have forgotten the several exchanges we had in this forum
regarding best practices and materials for finishing a red oak model display stand I built
for my dad. While it is an indoor only item - it looks as good as the day I finished it,
which indicates I properly followed your very specific instructions.


Thanks for the kind words. I kind of remember that... but more importantly glad it worked out well. I am sure it looks great.

I find experimenting
and learning from one's mistakes valuable - although in that instance was under the gun
schedule wise and could not afford to mess it up and start over - back to the belt sander
as I recall you commented.


There are times where experimenting is a complete waste of time. I too, like to find out things for myself, work up my own protocols and ideas for my work. But at this juncture in my life with many more years behind me than in front of me, I am much more happy to take instruction, then practice techniques based on practical instruction until I am satisfied. My youthful zeal for reinventing the wheel is gone.

I got a big laugh at my own expense over the belt sander comment. What tact! I am glad you took it as it was meant, not in a bad way.

Robert
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