The file cabinet carcasses are out of the clamps.
I mentioned earlier that I was trying something different on these
cabinets. When I put more than one drawer, on top of each other, in a
cabinet I typically use rail to separate the openings and that rail is
typically 3/4" thick and about 1.5" deep. I typically notch both ends
of the rail to fit between and behind the face frames stiles.
I have always used scrap plywood to jack each up on both ends for proper
height placement, I move the scraps up each time. Then a single screw
on the back side into the back of the face frames to keep them in place.
They essentially do not carry weight so much as fill the gap between
the drawers.

It came to me to go a different more elegant route to achieve perfect
and accurate spacing for these rails.

I always cut 3/4" dado's and groves to lock the bottom into the sides,
sides and bottom into the bottom rail of the front and back face frames
and the side stiles of the front and back face frames. this adds
considerable strength to the carcass with no mechanical fasteners.

Anyway while cutting the bottom dados in the plywood side panels to
receive the bottoms I cut additional dados at the locations that the
drawer mid rails would be located. I use those dados to perfectly index
the rails.

Back Face frame attached to carcass

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

The additional indexing dados for the mid rails.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

The mid rail perfectly indexed into the side dado and notched to fit the
face frame stile. Ready for the single screw to hold it into position
on each end.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/


Comments?

Leon wrote:
The file cabinet carcasses are out of the clamps.
I mentioned earlier that I was trying something different on these
cabinets. When I put more than one drawer, on top of each other, in a
cabinet I typically use rail to separate the openings and that rail is
typically 3/4" thick and about 1.5" deep. I typically notch both ends
of the rail to fit between and behind the face frames stiles.
I have always used scrap plywood to jack each up on both ends for proper
height placement, I move the scraps up each time. Then a single screw
on the back side into the back of the face frames to keep them in place.
They essentially do not carry weight so much as fill the gap between
the drawers.

It came to me to go a different more elegant route to achieve perfect
and accurate spacing for these rails.

I always cut 3/4" dado's and groves to lock the bottom into the sides,
sides and bottom into the bottom rail of the front and back face frames
and the side stiles of the front and back face frames. this adds
considerable strength to the carcass with no mechanical fasteners.

Anyway while cutting the bottom dados in the plywood side panels to
receive the bottoms I cut additional dados at the locations that the
drawer mid rails would be located. I use those dados to perfectly index
the rails.

Back Face frame attached to carcass

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

The additional indexing dados for the mid rails.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

The mid rail perfectly indexed into the side dado and notched to fit the
face frame stile. Ready for the single screw to hold it into position
on each end.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/


Comments?

That looks as sturdy as a tank.

--
GW Ross

On 2/12/17 5:46 PM, Leon wrote:



Comments?

Comments? you want comments?

This is an excellent idea!
I can see many other ways to do this (dado the face frame slightly
perhaps), but this method allows for a clean screwing point and is
rather fool proof.

You are a renaissance man Leon.

-BR

On 2/13/2017 6:33 AM, G. Ross wrote:
Leon wrote:
The file cabinet carcasses are out of the clamps.
I mentioned earlier that I was trying something different on these
cabinets. When I put more than one drawer, on top of each other, in a
cabinet I typically use rail to separate the openings and that rail is
typically 3/4" thick and about 1.5" deep. I typically notch both ends
of the rail to fit between and behind the face frames stiles.
I have always used scrap plywood to jack each up on both ends for proper
height placement, I move the scraps up each time. Then a single screw
on the back side into the back of the face frames to keep them in place.
They essentially do not carry weight so much as fill the gap between
the drawers.

It came to me to go a different more elegant route to achieve perfect
and accurate spacing for these rails.

I always cut 3/4" dado's and groves to lock the bottom into the sides,
sides and bottom into the bottom rail of the front and back face frames
and the side stiles of the front and back face frames. this adds
considerable strength to the carcass with no mechanical fasteners.

Anyway while cutting the bottom dados in the plywood side panels to
receive the bottoms I cut additional dados at the locations that the
drawer mid rails would be located. I use those dados to perfectly index
the rails.

Back Face frame attached to carcass

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

The additional indexing dados for the mid rails.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/

The mid rail perfectly indexed into the side dado and notched to fit the
face frame stile. Ready for the single screw to hold it into position
on each end.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb112...posted-public/


Comments?

That looks as sturdy as a tank.


Thank you , that was what i was going for.

On 2/13/2017 8:06 AM, Brewster wrote:
On 2/12/17 5:46 PM, Leon wrote:



Comments?

Comments? you want comments?

This is an excellent idea!
I can see many other ways to do this (dado the face frame slightly
perhaps), but this method allows for a clean screwing point and is
rather fool proof.

You are a renaissance man Leon.

-BR

A higher power gives me these ideas. :~) Thank you.

"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 2/13/2017 8:06 AM, Brewster wrote:
On 2/12/17 5:46 PM, Leon wrote:



Comments?

Comments? you want comments?

This is an excellent idea!
I can see many other ways to do this (dado the face frame slightly
perhaps), but this method allows for a clean screwing point and is
rather fool proof.

You are a renaissance man Leon.

-BR

A higher power gives me these ideas. :~) Thank you.


Yeah, Swingman.

~ : o ))) Dave in SoTex

On Mon, 13 Feb 2017 07:06:26 -0700, Brewster wrote:

On 2/12/17 5:46 PM, Leon wrote:



Comments?

Comments? you want comments?

This is an excellent idea!
I can see many other ways to do this (dado the face frame slightly
perhaps), but this method allows for a clean screwing point and is
rather fool proof.

You are a renaissance man Leon.

-BR

Wipe your chin, still have a little Leon there :-).




--
Nobody expects the Spanish Inquisition!

On 2/13/2017 9:32 AM, Dave in SoTex wrote:

"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 2/13/2017 8:06 AM, Brewster wrote:
On 2/12/17 5:46 PM, Leon wrote:



Comments?

Comments? you want comments?

This is an excellent idea!
I can see many other ways to do this (dado the face frame slightly
perhaps), but this method allows for a clean screwing point and is
rather fool proof.

You are a renaissance man Leon.

-BR

A higher power gives me these ideas. :~) Thank you.


Yeah, Swingman.

~ : o ))) Dave in SoTex

:~) Actually....

No, he is unaware of this change unless he closely examined the drawing
that I shared with him several weeks ago. But he gave me the idea many
years ago to use dados to attach all carcass panels to each other and to
the back of the front face frame. Adding the back face frames, the way
I do starting in late 2010, was something I became aware of similar to
the dados for indexing the drawer mid rails.

On 2/13/2017 9:32 AM, Dave in SoTex wrote:

Yeah, Swingman.

~ : o ))) Dave in SoTex

LMAO ...


On 2/13/2017 12:06 PM, Leon wrote:

But he gave me the idea many years ago to use dados to attach all
carcass panels to each other and to the back of the front face frame.
Adding the back face frames, the way I do starting in late 2010, was
something I became aware of similar to the dados for indexing the drawer
mid rails.

Basically use a dadoed FF applied to the back only when doing furniture
pieces that will be seen from all sides, like this in July 2010:

https://goo.gl/photos/2NvJ7vgBqiP2T4jt6

But, I do like your more rabbeted approach to joining certain structural
parts where the inside of the cabinet will be visible due to use of open
shelves and glass fronts.

... gives a very classy, Leon touch.

Trust me - your unique use of various joinery methods have not gone
unnoticed in your drawings, or your finished work.

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
https://www.facebook.com/eWoodShop-206166666122228
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 2/25/2017 11:17 AM, Swingman wrote:
On 2/13/2017 9:32 AM, Dave in SoTex wrote:

Yeah, Swingman.

~ : o ))) Dave in SoTex

LMAO ...


On 2/13/2017 12:06 PM, Leon wrote:

But he gave me the idea many years ago to use dados to attach all
carcass panels to each other and to the back of the front face frame.
Adding the back face frames, the way I do starting in late 2010, was
something I became aware of similar to the dados for indexing the drawer
mid rails.

Basically use a dadoed FF applied to the back only when doing furniture
pieces that will be seen from all sides, like this in July 2010:

https://goo.gl/photos/2NvJ7vgBqiP2T4jt6

IIRC I used rabbeted frames for the walnut curio cabinets.

WOW! Cool. Where did those end up? I don't recall seeing them. They
look great!
Or were they for Patsy?


But, I do like your more rabbeted approach to joining certain structural
parts where the inside of the cabinet will be visible due to use of open
shelves and glass fronts.

If you are talking about the face frames/frames/glass panel doors, I
reinforce with Domino's too.
I am not at all sure that the rabbet/lap joints would be very strong if
not reinforced.


... gives a very classy, Leon touch.

;~) Thank you.



Trust me - your unique use of various joinery methods have not gone
unnoticed in your drawings, or your finished work.

And the reason that I send them to you. I expect that you would/will
look closely. LOL

And with Sketchup, you get to try before you commit, so to speak.

On 2/25/2017 1:25 PM, Leon wrote:

And with Sketchup, you get to try before you commit, so to speak.

Designing, and drawing up, an 8 x 10 shed for the lake house and the Pro
version of 2017 really been giving me fits.

Reported 19 "bug splats" to Trimble in 3 days last week, mostly when
either dimensioning, or trying to draw angled rectangles/dimension them.

Seems like something to do with the inference engine?? Damned Millennial
programmers and their correspondence course education and poorly
executed, supposedly advanced, feature sets.

New version came out last couple of days, so just updated this morning.

We'll see ...

--
eWoodShop: www.eWoodShop.com
Wood Shop: www.e-WoodShop.net
https://www.google.com/+eWoodShop
https://plus.google.com/+KarlCaillouet/posts
http://www.custommade.com/by/ewoodshop/
https://www.facebook.com/eWoodShop-206166666122228
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)

On 2/25/2017 3:26 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 2/25/2017 1:25 PM, Leon wrote:

And with Sketchup, you get to try before you commit, so to speak.

Designing, and drawing up, an 8 x 10 shed for the lake house and the Pro
version of 2017 really been giving me fits.

Reported 19 "bug splats" to Trimble in 3 days last week, mostly when
either dimensioning, or trying to draw angled rectangles/dimension them.

Seems like something to do with the inference engine?? Damned Millennial
programmers and their correspondence course education and poorly
executed, supposedly advanced, feature sets.

New version came out last couple of days, so just updated this morning.

We'll see ...



I got the notice about the new update but have not done that yet,
waiting to see what you say. ha ha.

I have not had much of a problem except it seem the infrerencing tends
to be a but too much at times and wants to grab most anything. Zooming
in helps but I ust'a did not have to do that.