at first it sounds like an interesting idea but introducing a little
too much chaos for me


they are inexpensive but would not think it would be good for the saw
or the material or the operator



who has used a wobble dado


the cut could not have come out very good

On 1/18/2017 6:51 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
at first it sounds like an interesting idea but introducing a little
too much chaos for me


they are inexpensive but would not think it would be good for the saw
or the material or the operator



who has used a wobble dado


the cut could not have come out very good



You want cheap or quality? You want "close enough" or professional cuts
and fit? The corners won't be as square because of the way it cuts.
Another opinion here
http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/wobbledado.html

On 1/18/2017 6:20 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/18/2017 6:51 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
at first it sounds like an interesting idea but introducing a little
too much chaos for me


they are inexpensive but would not think it would be good for the saw
or the material or the operator



who has used a wobble dado


the cut could not have come out very good



You want cheap or quality? You want "close enough" or professional cuts
and fit? The corners won't be as square because of the way it cuts.
Another opinion here
http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/wobbledado.html


Actually the sides of the dado are square to the surface of the material
but the bottom is rounded so it is not square to the sides of the dado.

I have used a wobble dado many times.

It is not harmful to the saw and it runs very smoothly.

From there, the cuts suck. The wobble dado sets cut rounded bottom
dados. If you are using construction grade lumber and need to cut dados
the wobble dado will suffice for rough work.

Don't use if for furniture.

On 1/18/2017 6:43 PM, Leon wrote:


Actually the sides of the dado are square to the surface of the material
but the bottom is rounded so it is not square to the sides of the dado.

I have used a wobble dado many times.

It is not harmful to the saw and it runs very smoothly.

From there, the cuts suck. The wobble dado sets cut rounded bottom
dados. If you are using construction grade lumber and need to cut dados
the wobble dado will suffice for rough work.

Don't use if for furniture.


Contrary to the article you pointed at, my wobble dado did not ever
vibrate. Probably cus it was a Craftsman. ;~)

On Wednesday, January 18, 2017 at 6:51:23 PM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote:
at first it sounds like an interesting idea but introducing a little
too much chaos for me


they are inexpensive but would not think it would be good for the saw
or the material or the operator



who has used a wobble dado

I have a Craftsman Excalibur.

http://www.searsoutlet.com/Excalibur...ct_details.jsp

Do you want buy it?

I also have an Amana stacked dado set. A gift from a really nice (and talented) woodworker.

That one is not for sale.

the cut could not have come out very good

Square sides, rounded bottom

On 1/18/2017 6:51 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
at first it sounds like an interesting idea but introducing a little
too much chaos for me


they are inexpensive but would not think it would be good for the saw
or the material or the operator



who has used a wobble dado


the cut could not have come out very good







I bought a Craftsman "Excalibur" carbide dado set back when I still
thought the Craftsman name meant something. This set used two blades
joined by a hub that rotated to change the V angle between the blades.
Greater angles produced a wider dado. The bottom of the dado also became
very concave as the dado got wider, so forget about any kind of visible
joint, or getting any kind of glue strength. The real flaw is that the
dado width also changed up to 1/32" with the tightness of the arbor nut.
Cutting an exact width required much trial, error and luck. Set the hub,
tighten the nut, make a test cut, loosen the nut, adjust, tighten, test,
oops - not the exact same torque on the nut, start over, ad nauseum. So,
no good for finger joints and no repeatability. I had that piece of crap
in our neighborhood garage sale twice a year for ten years, at ever
lower prices. Never had a nibble and finally threw it in the recycling
dumpster at work.

On Wed, 18 Jan 2017 15:51:02 -0800, Electric Comet
wrote:

at first it sounds like an interesting idea but introducing a little
too much chaos for me


they are inexpensive but would not think it would be good for the saw
or the material or the operator

They aren't too scary. They're really not any more dangerous than a
stacked set. I used on on my Sears RAS but haven't used it since.

who has used a wobble dado

Probably most here.

the cut could not have come out very good

The cut is fine. The bottoms aren't flat, though.

On Wed, 18 Jan 2017 18:45:03 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/18/2017 6:43 PM, Leon wrote:


Actually the sides of the dado are square to the surface of the material
but the bottom is rounded so it is not square to the sides of the dado.

I have used a wobble dado many times.

It is not harmful to the saw and it runs very smoothly.

From there, the cuts suck. The wobble dado sets cut rounded bottom
dados. If you are using construction grade lumber and need to cut dados
the wobble dado will suffice for rough work.

Don't use if for furniture.


Contrary to the article you pointed at, my wobble dado did not ever
vibrate. Probably cus it was a Craftsman. ;~)

Mine doesn't vibrate either. It just sits there at the bottom of the
cabinet.

On Wed, 18 Jan 2017 19:54:00 -0500
Larry Kraus wrote:

torque on the nut, start over, ad nauseum. So, no good for finger
joints and no repeatability. I had that piece of crap in our
neighborhood garage sale twice a year for ten years, at ever lower
prices. Never had a nibble and finally threw it in the recycling
dumpster at work.

wow yeah i had never heard of one of these and i could not imagine them
working at all well

have seen a few tables with saw blades resined into the top
good for a man cave

i save all my old blades because i think i will make something some
day
maybe recycling is the better idea

On 1/18/2017 7:46 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 18 Jan 2017 18:45:03 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/18/2017 6:43 PM, Leon wrote:


Actually the sides of the dado are square to the surface of the material
but the bottom is rounded so it is not square to the sides of the dado.

I have used a wobble dado many times.

It is not harmful to the saw and it runs very smoothly.

From there, the cuts suck. The wobble dado sets cut rounded bottom
dados. If you are using construction grade lumber and need to cut dados
the wobble dado will suffice for rough work.

Don't use if for furniture.


Contrary to the article you pointed at, my wobble dado did not ever
vibrate. Probably cus it was a Craftsman. ;~)

Mine doesn't vibrate either. It just sits there at the bottom of the
cabinet.


I think mine is in a dump somewhere.

On Wednesday, January 18, 2017 at 4:43:28 PM UTC-8, Leon wrote:
On 1/18/2017 6:20 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/18/2017 6:51 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
at first it sounds like an interesting idea but introducing a little
too much chaos

You want cheap or quality?

I want both.

Wobble and stack both do good sidewalls; I prefer router cuts to get
flat bottoms, though. Routed dado cuts can be stopped more easily, too.

Actually the sides of the dado are square to the surface of the material
but the bottom is rounded so it is not square to the sides of the dado.

That's half-true; a wobble dado blade is sharpened for ONE width to
get a flat-bottomed cut, and narrower cuts have a ridge down the
kerf center, while wider have dished bottoms.

If all you want is a dado to guide some slide-in inserts, wobble is fine.
It doesn't require you to keep track of a lot of washers and chippers, such
as are missing from my several part-sets of stacked dado blades...

"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 1/18/2017 6:20 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/18/2017 6:51 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
at first it sounds like an interesting idea but introducing a little
too much chaos for me


they are inexpensive but would not think it would be good for the saw
or the material or the operator



who has used a wobble dado


the cut could not have come out very good



You want cheap or quality? You want "close enough" or professional cuts
and fit? The corners won't be as square because of the way it cuts.
Another opinion here
http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/wobbledado.html


Actually the sides of the dado are square to the surface of the material
but the bottom is rounded so it is not square to the sides of the dado.

I have used a wobble dado many times.

It is not harmful to the saw and it runs very smoothly.

From there, the cuts suck. The wobble dado sets cut rounded bottom dados.
If you are using construction grade lumber and need to cut dados the
wobble dado will suffice for rough work.

Don't use if for furniture.

I do. From time to time. The slightly rounded bottom can be handled in a
couple of ways...

1. Ignore it.

2. Clean it. I have a dado cleaning router bit for that purpose.

But mostly, I use my wobble dado to hog out most but not all of the
dado/groove I want. It does that very well. I then finish with one pass of
a router bit for final width and depth.

On 1/19/2017 4:44 AM, whit3rd wrote:
On Wednesday, January 18, 2017 at 4:43:28 PM UTC-8, Leon wrote:
On 1/18/2017 6:20 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/18/2017 6:51 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
at first it sounds like an interesting idea but introducing a little
too much chaos

You want cheap or quality?

I want both.

Wobble and stack both do good sidewalls; I prefer router cuts to get
flat bottoms, though. Routed dado cuts can be stopped more easily, too.

Actually the sides of the dado are square to the surface of the material
but the bottom is rounded so it is not square to the sides of the dado.

That's half-true; a wobble dado blade is sharpened for ONE width to
get a flat-bottomed cut, and narrower cuts have a ridge down the
kerf center, while wider have dished bottoms.

I'll bite, what is that one width?



If all you want is a dado to guide some slide-in inserts, wobble is fine.
It doesn't require you to keep track of a lot of washers and chippers, such
as are missing from my several part-sets of stacked dado blades...


If you have problems keeping up washers/shims and chippers,,,,,,,,

On Wed, 18 Jan 2017 20:02:51 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/18/2017 7:46 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 18 Jan 2017 18:45:03 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/18/2017 6:43 PM, Leon wrote:


Actually the sides of the dado are square to the surface of the material
but the bottom is rounded so it is not square to the sides of the dado.

I have used a wobble dado many times.

It is not harmful to the saw and it runs very smoothly.

From there, the cuts suck. The wobble dado sets cut rounded bottom
dados. If you are using construction grade lumber and need to cut dados
the wobble dado will suffice for rough work.

Don't use if for furniture.


Contrary to the article you pointed at, my wobble dado did not ever
vibrate. Probably cus it was a Craftsman. ;~)

Mine doesn't vibrate either. It just sits there at the bottom of the
cabinet.


I think mine is in a dump somewhere.

Sold my hand me down one on Ebay.

On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 10:40:05 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/19/2017 4:44 AM, whit3rd wrote:
On Wednesday, January 18, 2017 at 4:43:28 PM UTC-8, Leon wrote:
On 1/18/2017 6:20 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/18/2017 6:51 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
at first it sounds like an interesting idea but introducing a little
too much chaos

You want cheap or quality?

I want both.

Wobble and stack both do good sidewalls; I prefer router cuts to get
flat bottoms, though. Routed dado cuts can be stopped more easily, too.

Actually the sides of the dado are square to the surface of the material
but the bottom is rounded so it is not square to the sides of the dado.

That's half-true; a wobble dado blade is sharpened for ONE width to
get a flat-bottomed cut, and narrower cuts have a ridge down the
kerf center, while wider have dished bottoms.

I'll bite, what is that one width?

Vaires by manufacturer but I think it's 3/4" on mine.

If all you want is a dado to guide some slide-in inserts, wobble is fine.
It doesn't require you to keep track of a lot of washers and chippers, such
as are missing from my several part-sets of stacked dado blades...


If you have problems keeping up washers/shims and chippers,,,,,,,,

Was wondering about that myself. Even if you lose them, they're
available separately. The magnetic ones work really well.

On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 07:17:02 -0500, "dadiOH" wrote:


"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 1/18/2017 6:20 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/18/2017 6:51 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
at first it sounds like an interesting idea but introducing a little
too much chaos for me


they are inexpensive but would not think it would be good for the saw
or the material or the operator



who has used a wobble dado


the cut could not have come out very good



You want cheap or quality? You want "close enough" or professional cuts
and fit? The corners won't be as square because of the way it cuts.
Another opinion here
http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/wobbledado.html


Actually the sides of the dado are square to the surface of the material
but the bottom is rounded so it is not square to the sides of the dado.

I have used a wobble dado many times.

It is not harmful to the saw and it runs very smoothly.

From there, the cuts suck. The wobble dado sets cut rounded bottom dados.
If you are using construction grade lumber and need to cut dados the
wobble dado will suffice for rough work.

Don't use if for furniture.

I do. From time to time. The slightly rounded bottom can be handled in a
couple of ways...

1. Ignore it.

2. Clean it. I have a dado cleaning router bit for that purpose.

But mostly, I use my wobble dado to hog out most but not all of the
dado/groove I want. It does that very well. I then finish with one pass of
a router bit for final width and depth.

How do you guide the router? Seems if you're going to all that
trouble it would be easier to just use the router.

On 1/19/17 12:02 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 07:17:02 -0500, "dadiOH"
wrote:


"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 1/18/2017 6:20 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/18/2017 6:51 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
at first it sounds like an interesting idea but introducing a
little too much chaos for me


they are inexpensive but would not think it would be good for
the saw or the material or the operator



who has used a wobble dado


the cut could not have come out very good



You want cheap or quality? You want "close enough" or
professional cuts and fit? The corners won't be as square
because of the way it cuts. Another opinion here
http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/wobbledado.html


Actually the sides of the dado are square to the surface of the
material but the bottom is rounded so it is not square to the
sides of the dado.

I have used a wobble dado many times.

It is not harmful to the saw and it runs very smoothly.

From there, the cuts suck. The wobble dado sets cut rounded
bottom dados. If you are using construction grade lumber and need
to cut dados the wobble dado will suffice for rough work.

Don't use if for furniture.

I do. From time to time. The slightly rounded bottom can be
handled in a couple of ways...

1. Ignore it.

2. Clean it. I have a dado cleaning router bit for that purpose.

But mostly, I use my wobble dado to hog out most but not all of the
dado/groove I want. It does that very well. I then finish with
one pass of a router bit for final width and depth.

How do you guide the router? Seems if you're going to all that
trouble it would be easier to just use the router.


True, in some cases and as usually it just depends on what you're doing.
While router bits are great for making, clean, precise, square cuts,
they are not particularly well suited for hogging out a bunch of material.

As people will do with rough cutting down plywood into smaller sections,
then doing the precise cutting on the TS, I've done the opposite on a
few projects that made it more efficient for me. You hog out the bulk
of material on the TS, quickly and with little effort. They you clean
it up with a precise cut using the router.

Maybe one day I'll spend the cash for an excellent set of dado blade
that do, in fact, produce a perfectly straight and square bottom withOUT
bat ears and I won't feel the need to clean the cut up with the router.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 1/19/2017 12:00 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 10:40:05 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/19/2017 4:44 AM, whit3rd wrote:
On Wednesday, January 18, 2017 at 4:43:28 PM UTC-8, Leon wrote:
On 1/18/2017 6:20 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/18/2017 6:51 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
at first it sounds like an interesting idea but introducing a little
too much chaos

You want cheap or quality?

I want both.

Wobble and stack both do good sidewalls; I prefer router cuts to get
flat bottoms, though. Routed dado cuts can be stopped more easily, too.

Actually the sides of the dado are square to the surface of the material
but the bottom is rounded so it is not square to the sides of the dado.

That's half-true; a wobble dado blade is sharpened for ONE width to
get a flat-bottomed cut, and narrower cuts have a ridge down the
kerf center, while wider have dished bottoms.

I'll bite, what is that one width?

Vaires by manufacturer but I think it's 3/4" on mine.

I was thinking as close to the narrowest setting.

I don't want to get into a ****ing contest with you here but consider
this and let me know if I am missing something.

Regardless of grind if the blade is straight up and down,the narrowest
setting and perpendicular to the work it will make the narrowest cut.

As you widen the wobble the blade does not protrude as far up as with
the perpendicular setting "on the outsides of the cut". The teeth at
the center of the blade still cuts deep and the tips of the blade, near
the outer edge of the cut, do not cut as deeply. Easier to visualize
using a pendulum and or a plum bob that just touches the surface and
when you swing it away it no longer touches the surface.





If all you want is a dado to guide some slide-in inserts, wobble is fine.
It doesn't require you to keep track of a lot of washers and chippers, such
as are missing from my several part-sets of stacked dado blades...


If you have problems keeping up washers/shims and chippers,,,,,,,,

Was wondering about that myself. Even if you lose them, they're
available separately. The magnetic ones work really well.

The ones that came with my Forrest Dado set are rubber magnetic and one
have gotten away after hundreds of uses.

On 1/19/2017 12:02 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 07:17:02 -0500, "dadiOH" wrote:


"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 1/18/2017 6:20 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/18/2017 6:51 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
at first it sounds like an interesting idea but introducing a little
too much chaos for me


they are inexpensive but would not think it would be good for the saw
or the material or the operator



who has used a wobble dado


the cut could not have come out very good



You want cheap or quality? You want "close enough" or professional cuts
and fit? The corners won't be as square because of the way it cuts.
Another opinion here
http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/wobbledado.html


Actually the sides of the dado are square to the surface of the material
but the bottom is rounded so it is not square to the sides of the dado.

I have used a wobble dado many times.

It is not harmful to the saw and it runs very smoothly.

From there, the cuts suck. The wobble dado sets cut rounded bottom dados.
If you are using construction grade lumber and need to cut dados the
wobble dado will suffice for rough work.

Don't use if for furniture.

I do. From time to time. The slightly rounded bottom can be handled in a
couple of ways...

1. Ignore it.

2. Clean it. I have a dado cleaning router bit for that purpose.

But mostly, I use my wobble dado to hog out most but not all of the
dado/groove I want. It does that very well. I then finish with one pass of
a router bit for final width and depth.

How do you guide the router? Seems if you're going to all that
trouble it would be easier to just use the router.


A "short" top bearing flush cut bit could flatten the bottom. But that
would only flatten the bottom.

On 1/19/2017 1:14 PM, Leon wrote:


The ones that came with my Forrest Dado set are rubber magnetic and one
have gotten away after hundreds of uses.



That should have said NONE have gotten away.

wrote in message
...
On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 07:17:02 -0500, "dadiOH" wrote:


"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 1/18/2017 6:20 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/18/2017 6:51 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
at first it sounds like an interesting idea but introducing a little
too much chaos for me


they are inexpensive but would not think it would be good for the saw
or the material or the operator



who has used a wobble dado


the cut could not have come out very good



You want cheap or quality? You want "close enough" or professional
cuts
and fit? The corners won't be as square because of the way it cuts.
Another opinion here
http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/wobbledado.html


Actually the sides of the dado are square to the surface of the material
but the bottom is rounded so it is not square to the sides of the dado.

I have used a wobble dado many times.

It is not harmful to the saw and it runs very smoothly.

From there, the cuts suck. The wobble dado sets cut rounded bottom
dados.
If you are using construction grade lumber and need to cut dados the
wobble dado will suffice for rough work.

Don't use if for furniture.

I do. From time to time. The slightly rounded bottom can be handled in a
couple of ways...

1. Ignore it.

2. Clean it. I have a dado cleaning router bit for that purpose.

But mostly, I use my wobble dado to hog out most but not all of the
dado/groove I want. It does that very well. I then finish with one pass
of
a router bit for final width and depth.

How do you guide the router?

The same way as you would do if making the entire cut with the router.

Seems if you're going to all that trouble it would be easier to just use
the router.

Well, one could certainly do that; however, IMO, routers are really meant to
trim relatively small amounts of wood. And, IME, they work best in that
manner. If one needs a bunch of 3/4 x 3/4 grooves in 6/4 oak, you could
either hog out most - 11/16 x 11/16 for example - with a table saw in one
pass and then make one light pass with the router to final size or you could
make multiple basses with a 3/4" router bit, gradually increasing the depth.
I find the former easier and better, YMMV.

On Thursday, January 19, 2017 at 8:40:21 AM UTC-8, Leon wrote:
On 1/19/2017 4:44 AM, whit3rd wrote:

[about wobble-blade dados]
Actually the sides of the dado are square to the surface of the material
but the bottom is rounded so it is not square to the sides of the dado.

That's half-true; a wobble dado blade is sharpened for ONE width to
get a flat-bottomed cut, and narrower cuts have a ridge down the
kerf center, while wider have dished bottoms.

I'll bite, what is that one width?

For a Craftsman 720.3261, 720.3262, or 720.3263, aka "93261" the instruction sheet
indicates flat bottom for 3/4" width in the as-delivered condition.
Presumably, if you send a wobble set to a sharpening service, you can specify
a flat cut at any width you choose.

The 'W' shape kerf indicated for narrower cuts than 3/4" is fairly easy to rework with
a sharp chisel, of course.

On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 13:14:59 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/19/2017 12:00 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 10:40:05 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/19/2017 4:44 AM, whit3rd wrote:
On Wednesday, January 18, 2017 at 4:43:28 PM UTC-8, Leon wrote:
On 1/18/2017 6:20 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/18/2017 6:51 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
at first it sounds like an interesting idea but introducing a little
too much chaos

You want cheap or quality?

I want both.

Wobble and stack both do good sidewalls; I prefer router cuts to get
flat bottoms, though. Routed dado cuts can be stopped more easily, too.

Actually the sides of the dado are square to the surface of the material
but the bottom is rounded so it is not square to the sides of the dado.

That's half-true; a wobble dado blade is sharpened for ONE width to
get a flat-bottomed cut, and narrower cuts have a ridge down the
kerf center, while wider have dished bottoms.

I'll bite, what is that one width?

Vaires by manufacturer but I think it's 3/4" on mine.

I was thinking as close to the narrowest setting.

I don't want to get into a ****ing contest with you here but consider
this and let me know if I am missing something.

Regardless of grind if the blade is straight up and down,the narrowest
setting and perpendicular to the work it will make the narrowest cut.

As you widen the wobble the blade does not protrude as far up as with
the perpendicular setting "on the outsides of the cut". The teeth at
the center of the blade still cuts deep and the tips of the blade, near
the outer edge of the cut, do not cut as deeply. Easier to visualize
using a pendulum and or a plum bob that just touches the surface and
when you swing it away it no longer touches the surface.

What you're missing is that the teeth aren't flat.





If all you want is a dado to guide some slide-in inserts, wobble is fine.
It doesn't require you to keep track of a lot of washers and chippers, such
as are missing from my several part-sets of stacked dado blades...


If you have problems keeping up washers/shims and chippers,,,,,,,,

Was wondering about that myself. Even if you lose them, they're
available separately. The magnetic ones work really well.

The ones that came with my Forrest Dado set are rubber magnetic and one
have gotten away after hundreds of uses.

Ditto. They're available aftermarket, too.

On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 13:06:09 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 1/19/17 12:02 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 07:17:02 -0500, "dadiOH"
wrote:


"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 1/18/2017 6:20 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/18/2017 6:51 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
at first it sounds like an interesting idea but introducing a
little too much chaos for me


they are inexpensive but would not think it would be good for
the saw or the material or the operator



who has used a wobble dado


the cut could not have come out very good



You want cheap or quality? You want "close enough" or
professional cuts and fit? The corners won't be as square
because of the way it cuts. Another opinion here
http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/wobbledado.html


Actually the sides of the dado are square to the surface of the
material but the bottom is rounded so it is not square to the
sides of the dado.

I have used a wobble dado many times.

It is not harmful to the saw and it runs very smoothly.

From there, the cuts suck. The wobble dado sets cut rounded
bottom dados. If you are using construction grade lumber and need
to cut dados the wobble dado will suffice for rough work.

Don't use if for furniture.

I do. From time to time. The slightly rounded bottom can be
handled in a couple of ways...

1. Ignore it.

2. Clean it. I have a dado cleaning router bit for that purpose.

But mostly, I use my wobble dado to hog out most but not all of the
dado/groove I want. It does that very well. I then finish with
one pass of a router bit for final width and depth.

How do you guide the router? Seems if you're going to all that
trouble it would be easier to just use the router.


True, in some cases and as usually it just depends on what you're doing.
While router bits are great for making, clean, precise, square cuts,
they are not particularly well suited for hogging out a bunch of material.

Multiple passes?

As people will do with rough cutting down plywood into smaller sections,
then doing the precise cutting on the TS, I've done the opposite on a
few projects that made it more efficient for me. You hog out the bulk
of material on the TS, quickly and with little effort. They you clean
it up with a precise cut using the router.

It just seems that this is a lot of setup work.

Maybe one day I'll spend the cash for an excellent set of dado blade
that do, in fact, produce a perfectly straight and square bottom withOUT
bat ears and I won't feel the need to clean the cut up with the router.

On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 14:55:21 -0500, "dadiOH" wrote:


wrote in message
.. .
On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 07:17:02 -0500, "dadiOH" wrote:


"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 1/18/2017 6:20 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/18/2017 6:51 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
at first it sounds like an interesting idea but introducing a little
too much chaos for me


they are inexpensive but would not think it would be good for the saw
or the material or the operator



who has used a wobble dado


the cut could not have come out very good



You want cheap or quality? You want "close enough" or professional
cuts
and fit? The corners won't be as square because of the way it cuts.
Another opinion here
http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/wobbledado.html


Actually the sides of the dado are square to the surface of the material
but the bottom is rounded so it is not square to the sides of the dado.

I have used a wobble dado many times.

It is not harmful to the saw and it runs very smoothly.

From there, the cuts suck. The wobble dado sets cut rounded bottom
dados.
If you are using construction grade lumber and need to cut dados the
wobble dado will suffice for rough work.

Don't use if for furniture.

I do. From time to time. The slightly rounded bottom can be handled in a
couple of ways...

1. Ignore it.

2. Clean it. I have a dado cleaning router bit for that purpose.

But mostly, I use my wobble dado to hog out most but not all of the
dado/groove I want. It does that very well. I then finish with one pass
of
a router bit for final width and depth.

How do you guide the router?

The same way as you would do if making the entire cut with the router.

I was looking for some easy trick that could use the setup already
used for the dado, like Leon's top-bearing bit.

Seems if you're going to all that trouble it would be easier to just use
the router.

Well, one could certainly do that; however, IMO, routers are really meant to
trim relatively small amounts of wood. And, IME, they work best in that
manner. If one needs a bunch of 3/4 x 3/4 grooves in 6/4 oak, you could
either hog out most - 11/16 x 11/16 for example - with a table saw in one
pass and then make one light pass with the router to final size or you could
make multiple basses with a 3/4" router bit, gradually increasing the depth.
I find the former easier and better, YMMV.

On 1/19/17 8:06 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 13:06:09 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 1/19/17 12:02 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 07:17:02 -0500, "dadiOH"
wrote:


"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 1/18/2017 6:20 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/18/2017 6:51 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
at first it sounds like an interesting idea but
introducing a little too much chaos for me


they are inexpensive but would not think it would be good
for the saw or the material or the operator



who has used a wobble dado


the cut could not have come out very good



You want cheap or quality? You want "close enough" or
professional cuts and fit? The corners won't be as square
because of the way it cuts. Another opinion here
http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/wobbledado.html


Actually the sides of the dado are square to the surface of
the material but the bottom is rounded so it is not square to
the sides of the dado.

I have used a wobble dado many times.

It is not harmful to the saw and it runs very smoothly.

From there, the cuts suck. The wobble dado sets cut rounded
bottom dados. If you are using construction grade lumber and
need to cut dados the wobble dado will suffice for rough
work.

Don't use if for furniture.

I do. From time to time. The slightly rounded bottom can be
handled in a couple of ways...

1. Ignore it.

2. Clean it. I have a dado cleaning router bit for that
purpose.

But mostly, I use my wobble dado to hog out most but not all of
the dado/groove I want. It does that very well. I then finish
with one pass of a router bit for final width and depth.

How do you guide the router? Seems if you're going to all that
trouble it would be easier to just use the router.


True, in some cases and as usually it just depends on what you're
doing. While router bits are great for making, clean, precise,
square cuts, they are not particularly well suited for hogging out
a bunch of material.

Multiple passes?

If it takes multiple passes, then that kind of proves it's not good for
hogging out a lot of material, right?



As people will do with rough cutting down plywood into smaller
sections, then doing the precise cutting on the TS, I've done the
opposite on a few projects that made it more efficient for me. You
hog out the bulk of material on the TS, quickly and with little
effort. They you clean it up with a precise cut using the router.

It just seems that this is a lot of setup work.


Again, it always depends on the task/job and tools.
In my case, where I'm dealing with a pretty good dado/rabbet that just
needs the "bat ears" flattened out a pattern bit is a quick way to
square out the bottom without any extra set-up.

But I also already have jigs made that set up to a cut-line with no
measuring/marking of any kind, so any extra set-up time is negligible.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 20:42:30 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 1/19/17 8:06 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 13:06:09 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 1/19/17 12:02 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 07:17:02 -0500, "dadiOH"
wrote:


"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 1/18/2017 6:20 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/18/2017 6:51 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
at first it sounds like an interesting idea but
introducing a little too much chaos for me


they are inexpensive but would not think it would be good
for the saw or the material or the operator



who has used a wobble dado


the cut could not have come out very good



You want cheap or quality? You want "close enough" or
professional cuts and fit? The corners won't be as square
because of the way it cuts. Another opinion here
http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/wobbledado.html


Actually the sides of the dado are square to the surface of
the material but the bottom is rounded so it is not square to
the sides of the dado.

I have used a wobble dado many times.

It is not harmful to the saw and it runs very smoothly.

From there, the cuts suck. The wobble dado sets cut rounded
bottom dados. If you are using construction grade lumber and
need to cut dados the wobble dado will suffice for rough
work.

Don't use if for furniture.

I do. From time to time. The slightly rounded bottom can be
handled in a couple of ways...

1. Ignore it.

2. Clean it. I have a dado cleaning router bit for that
purpose.

But mostly, I use my wobble dado to hog out most but not all of
the dado/groove I want. It does that very well. I then finish
with one pass of a router bit for final width and depth.

How do you guide the router? Seems if you're going to all that
trouble it would be easier to just use the router.


True, in some cases and as usually it just depends on what you're
doing. While router bits are great for making, clean, precise,
square cuts, they are not particularly well suited for hogging out
a bunch of material.

Multiple passes?

If it takes multiple passes, then that kind of proves it's not good for
hogging out a lot of material, right?

Of course. We all understand routers, here. However, it's only one
setup. I worry about registration errors if I were to use two tools
for one operation.



As people will do with rough cutting down plywood into smaller
sections, then doing the precise cutting on the TS, I've done the
opposite on a few projects that made it more efficient for me. You
hog out the bulk of material on the TS, quickly and with little
effort. They you clean it up with a precise cut using the router.

It just seems that this is a lot of setup work.


Again, it always depends on the task/job and tools.
In my case, where I'm dealing with a pretty good dado/rabbet that just
needs the "bat ears" flattened out a pattern bit is a quick way to
square out the bottom without any extra set-up.

But I also already have jigs made that set up to a cut-line with no
measuring/marking of any kind, so any extra set-up time is negligible.

On 1/19/17 8:47 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 20:42:30 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 1/19/17 8:06 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 13:06:09 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 1/19/17 12:02 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 07:17:02 -0500, "dadiOH"
wrote:


"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 1/18/2017 6:20 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/18/2017 6:51 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
at first it sounds like an interesting idea but
introducing a little too much chaos for me


they are inexpensive but would not think it would be
good for the saw or the material or the operator



who has used a wobble dado


the cut could not have come out very good



You want cheap or quality? You want "close enough" or
professional cuts and fit? The corners won't be as
square because of the way it cuts. Another opinion
here
http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/wobbledado.html


Actually the sides of the dado are square to the surface
of the material but the bottom is rounded so it is not
square to the sides of the dado.

I have used a wobble dado many times.

It is not harmful to the saw and it runs very smoothly.

From there, the cuts suck. The wobble dado sets cut
rounded bottom dados. If you are using construction grade
lumber and need to cut dados the wobble dado will suffice
for rough work.

Don't use if for furniture.

I do. From time to time. The slightly rounded bottom can
be handled in a couple of ways...

1. Ignore it.

2. Clean it. I have a dado cleaning router bit for that
purpose.

But mostly, I use my wobble dado to hog out most but not
all of the dado/groove I want. It does that very well. I
then finish with one pass of a router bit for final width
and depth.

How do you guide the router? Seems if you're going to all
that trouble it would be easier to just use the router.


True, in some cases and as usually it just depends on what
you're doing. While router bits are great for making, clean,
precise, square cuts, they are not particularly well suited for
hogging out a bunch of material.

Multiple passes?

If it takes multiple passes, then that kind of proves it's not good
for hogging out a lot of material, right?

Of course. We all understand routers, here. However, it's only one
setup. I worry about registration errors if I were to use two tools
for one operation.

Often, when I do this, I'm hogging it out on the TS a little shy of the
total dimension. Then the router cuts the final dimensions, usually
barely taking any wood with it.

With my dado jig, the process is very fast.
https://goo.gl/photos/StFnQBzCj3J9NCcp8

But like I said, I don't always go to both TS and router.
There are situation and circumstances that make it a no-brainer for me
to use both and there are times when one or the other is a much better
option.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 21:02:16 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 1/19/17 8:47 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 20:42:30 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 1/19/17 8:06 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 13:06:09 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 1/19/17 12:02 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 07:17:02 -0500, "dadiOH"
wrote:


"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 1/18/2017 6:20 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/18/2017 6:51 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
at first it sounds like an interesting idea but
introducing a little too much chaos for me


they are inexpensive but would not think it would be
good for the saw or the material or the operator



who has used a wobble dado


the cut could not have come out very good



You want cheap or quality? You want "close enough" or
professional cuts and fit? The corners won't be as
square because of the way it cuts. Another opinion
here
http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/wobbledado.html


Actually the sides of the dado are square to the surface
of the material but the bottom is rounded so it is not
square to the sides of the dado.

I have used a wobble dado many times.

It is not harmful to the saw and it runs very smoothly.

From there, the cuts suck. The wobble dado sets cut
rounded bottom dados. If you are using construction grade
lumber and need to cut dados the wobble dado will suffice
for rough work.

Don't use if for furniture.

I do. From time to time. The slightly rounded bottom can
be handled in a couple of ways...

1. Ignore it.

2. Clean it. I have a dado cleaning router bit for that
purpose.

But mostly, I use my wobble dado to hog out most but not
all of the dado/groove I want. It does that very well. I
then finish with one pass of a router bit for final width
and depth.

How do you guide the router? Seems if you're going to all
that trouble it would be easier to just use the router.


True, in some cases and as usually it just depends on what
you're doing. While router bits are great for making, clean,
precise, square cuts, they are not particularly well suited for
hogging out a bunch of material.

Multiple passes?

If it takes multiple passes, then that kind of proves it's not good
for hogging out a lot of material, right?

Of course. We all understand routers, here. However, it's only one
setup. I worry about registration errors if I were to use two tools
for one operation.

Often, when I do this, I'm hogging it out on the TS a little shy of the
total dimension. Then the router cuts the final dimensions, usually
barely taking any wood with it.

Whether you want to take a lot or not, the registration has to be
perfect. ...or you will. ;-)

With my dado jig, the process is very fast.
https://goo.gl/photos/StFnQBzCj3J9NCcp8

Very nice. Bunch of good ideas hiding in there. Thanks!

But like I said, I don't always go to both TS and router.
There are situation and circumstances that make it a no-brainer for me
to use both and there are times when one or the other is a much better
option.

On 1/19/2017 6:46 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, January 19, 2017 at 8:40:21 AM UTC-8, Leon wrote:
On 1/19/2017 4:44 AM, whit3rd wrote:

[about wobble-blade dados]
Actually the sides of the dado are square to the surface of the material
but the bottom is rounded so it is not square to the sides of the dado.

That's half-true; a wobble dado blade is sharpened for ONE width to
get a flat-bottomed cut, and narrower cuts have a ridge down the
kerf center, while wider have dished bottoms.

I'll bite, what is that one width?

For a Craftsman 720.3261, 720.3262, or 720.3263, aka "93261" the instruction sheet
indicates flat bottom for 3/4" width in the as-delivered condition.
Presumably, if you send a wobble set to a sharpening service, you can specify
a flat cut at any width you choose.

I don't recall the model, LOL but mine was a Craftsman that I bought in
1979. It had a very noticeable cupped bottom that got worse the wider
the cut.



The 'W' shape kerf indicated for narrower cuts than 3/4" is fairly easy to rework with
a sharp chisel, of course.

On 1/19/2017 8:04 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 13:14:59 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/19/2017 12:00 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 10:40:05 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/19/2017 4:44 AM, whit3rd wrote:
On Wednesday, January 18, 2017 at 4:43:28 PM UTC-8, Leon wrote:
On 1/18/2017 6:20 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/18/2017 6:51 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
at first it sounds like an interesting idea but introducing a little
too much chaos

You want cheap or quality?

I want both.

Wobble and stack both do good sidewalls; I prefer router cuts to get
flat bottoms, though. Routed dado cuts can be stopped more easily, too.

Actually the sides of the dado are square to the surface of the material
but the bottom is rounded so it is not square to the sides of the dado.

That's half-true; a wobble dado blade is sharpened for ONE width to
get a flat-bottomed cut, and narrower cuts have a ridge down the
kerf center, while wider have dished bottoms.

I'll bite, what is that one width?

Vaires by manufacturer but I think it's 3/4" on mine.

I was thinking as close to the narrowest setting.

I don't want to get into a ****ing contest with you here but consider
this and let me know if I am missing something.

Regardless of grind if the blade is straight up and down,the narrowest
setting and perpendicular to the work it will make the narrowest cut.

As you widen the wobble the blade does not protrude as far up as with
the perpendicular setting "on the outsides of the cut". The teeth at
the center of the blade still cuts deep and the tips of the blade, near
the outer edge of the cut, do not cut as deeply. Easier to visualize
using a pendulum and or a plum bob that just touches the surface and
when you swing it away it no longer touches the surface.

What you're missing is that the teeth aren't flat.

Understood but their reach is constant. The wider the cut, the
shallower the cut at the edges of the dado.

Mine never gave a flat bottom.






If all you want is a dado to guide some slide-in inserts, wobble is fine.
It doesn't require you to keep track of a lot of washers and chippers, such
as are missing from my several part-sets of stacked dado blades...


If you have problems keeping up washers/shims and chippers,,,,,,,,

Was wondering about that myself. Even if you lose them, they're
available separately. The magnetic ones work really well.

The ones that came with my Forrest Dado set are rubber magnetic and one
have gotten away after hundreds of uses.

Ditto. They're available aftermarket, too.

On 1/19/17 9:12 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 21:02:16 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 1/19/17 8:47 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 20:42:30 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 1/19/17 8:06 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 13:06:09 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 1/19/17 12:02 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 07:17:02 -0500, "dadiOH"
wrote:


"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 1/18/2017 6:20 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/18/2017 6:51 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
at first it sounds like an interesting idea but
introducing a little too much chaos for me


they are inexpensive but would not think it would
be good for the saw or the material or the
operator



who has used a wobble dado


the cut could not have come out very good



You want cheap or quality? You want "close enough"
or professional cuts and fit? The corners won't be
as square because of the way it cuts. Another
opinion here
http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/wobbledado.html




Actually the sides of the dado are square to the surface
of the material but the bottom is rounded so it is
not square to the sides of the dado.

I have used a wobble dado many times.

It is not harmful to the saw and it runs very
smoothly.

From there, the cuts suck. The wobble dado sets cut
rounded bottom dados. If you are using construction
grade lumber and need to cut dados the wobble dado
will suffice for rough work.

Don't use if for furniture.

I do. From time to time. The slightly rounded bottom
can be handled in a couple of ways...

1. Ignore it.

2. Clean it. I have a dado cleaning router bit for
that purpose.

But mostly, I use my wobble dado to hog out most but
not all of the dado/groove I want. It does that very
well. I then finish with one pass of a router bit for
final width and depth.

How do you guide the router? Seems if you're going to
all that trouble it would be easier to just use the
router.


True, in some cases and as usually it just depends on what
you're doing. While router bits are great for making,
clean, precise, square cuts, they are not particularly well
suited for hogging out a bunch of material.

Multiple passes?

If it takes multiple passes, then that kind of proves it's not
good for hogging out a lot of material, right?

Of course. We all understand routers, here. However, it's only
one setup. I worry about registration errors if I were to use
two tools for one operation.

Often, when I do this, I'm hogging it out on the TS a little shy of
the total dimension. Then the router cuts the final dimensions,
usually barely taking any wood with it.

Whether you want to take a lot or not, the registration has to be
perfect. ...or you will. ;-)

I may be misunderstanding what you mean by registration.
Let's say I need a 3/4" dado cut exactly between 23-1/4" and 24" from
the end of a bookcase side. On the table saw, maybe I will only cut a
5/8 dado slot at 23-15/16" from the edge and a tad shy of full depth.
When I route the final dado slot with the router, I set my guide to the
24" and cut. It makes a very clean edge on all three sides, only having
to cut 1/16" all around. That's just an example.

It's really not different than rough cutting a sheet of plywood a little
large, then cutting down to the final dimension on the TS. The rough
cut is largely irrelevant and the critical measurement is only done once.



With my dado jig, the process is very fast.
https://goo.gl/photos/StFnQBzCj3J9NCcp8

Very nice. Bunch of good ideas hiding in there. Thanks!

Thank you, it's been really good to me.
Like many of my jigs, it was only intended to be a rough prototype that
would serve as a template for a final version. But it works so well, I
just stuck with it.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 1/19/2017 11:18 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
snip


With my dado jig, the process is very fast.
https://goo.gl/photos/StFnQBzCj3J9NCcp8

Very nice. Bunch of good ideas hiding in there. Thanks!

Thank you, it's been really good to me.
Like many of my jigs, it was only intended to be a rough prototype that
would serve as a template for a final version. But it works so well, I
just stuck with it.




Looks a lot like a design I came up with about 12~ 15 years ago. ;~)

On 1/19/17 11:30 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/19/2017 11:18 PM, -MIKE- wrote: snip


With my dado jig, the process is very fast.
https://goo.gl/photos/StFnQBzCj3J9NCcp8

Very nice. Bunch of good ideas hiding in there. Thanks!

Thank you, it's been really good to me. Like many of my jigs, it
was only intended to be a rough prototype that would serve as a
template for a final version. But it works so well, I just stuck
with it.




Looks a lot like a design I came up with about 12~ 15 years ago.
;~)

A good songwriter is a better thief. :-)

Who knows? Whoever I stole it from probably stole it the guy who stole
it from the guy who stole it from the guy who stole it from the guy who
stole it from you.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote:
On 1/19/2017 8:04 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 13:14:59 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/19/2017 12:00 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 10:40:05 -0600, Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet
wrote:

On 1/19/2017 4:44 AM, whit3rd wrote:
On Wednesday, January 18, 2017 at 4:43:28 PM UTC-8, Leon wrote:
On 1/18/2017 6:20 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/18/2017 6:51 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
at first it sounds like an interesting idea but introducing a little
too much chaos

You want cheap or quality?

I want both.

Wobble and stack both do good sidewalls; I prefer router cuts to get
flat bottoms, though. Routed dado cuts can be stopped more easily, too.

Actually the sides of the dado are square to the surface of the material
but the bottom is rounded so it is not square to the sides of the dado.

That's half-true; a wobble dado blade is sharpened for ONE width to
get a flat-bottomed cut, and narrower cuts have a ridge down the
kerf center, while wider have dished bottoms.

I'll bite, what is that one width?

Vaires by manufacturer but I think it's 3/4" on mine.

I was thinking as close to the narrowest setting.

I don't want to get into a ****ing contest with you here but consider
this and let me know if I am missing something.

Regardless of grind if the blade is straight up and down,the narrowest
setting and perpendicular to the work it will make the narrowest cut.

As you widen the wobble the blade does not protrude as far up as with
the perpendicular setting "on the outsides of the cut". The teeth at
the center of the blade still cuts deep and the tips of the blade, near
the outer edge of the cut, do not cut as deeply. Easier to visualize
using a pendulum and or a plum bob that just touches the surface and
when you swing it away it no longer touches the surface.

What you're missing is that the teeth aren't flat.

Understood but their reach is constant. The wider the cut, the
shallower the cut at the edges of


OK I think I can see how that can happen now. Not just the angle of grind
on the teeth for a flat cut at a given width but also the teeth that remain
near the center of a 3/4" cut are actually ground shorter in length than
the outer cutting teeth.

That would also cause a high spot in the middle of narrower grooves or
dados.

The one I had was pretty old and not made that way, the wider the dado the
more cup I got in the middle of the grove or dado.

-MIKE- wrote:
On 1/19/17 11:30 PM, Leon wrote:
On 1/19/2017 11:18 PM, -MIKE- wrote: snip


With my dado jig, the process is very fast.
https://goo.gl/photos/StFnQBzCj3J9NCcp8

Very nice. Bunch of good ideas hiding in there. Thanks!

Thank you, it's been really good to me. Like many of my jigs, it
was only intended to be a rough prototype that would serve as a
template for a final version. But it works so well, I just stuck
with it.




Looks a lot like a design I came up with about 12~ 15 years ago.
;~)

A good songwriter is a better thief. :-)

Who knows? Whoever I stole it from probably stole it the guy who stole
it from the guy who stole it from the guy who stole it from the guy who
stole it from you.



LOL I saw the concept in a WW magazine many years ago. They simply clamped
a=
piece of wood on a cut line and used a sample piece to register another
pi=
ece to clamp. And you know why we built ours the way we did. :-)

On Friday, January 20, 2017 at 12:18:59 AM UTC-5, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/19/17 9:12 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 21:02:16 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

With my dado jig, the process is very fast.
https://goo.gl/photos/StFnQBzCj3J9NCcp8

Very nice. Bunch of good ideas hiding in there. Thanks!

Thank you, it's been really good to me.
Like many of my jigs, it was only intended to be a rough prototype that
would serve as a template for a final version. But it works so well, I
just stuck with it.

€�It's only temporary...unless it works." ;-)

-MIKE- wrote in news
[...]

Maybe one day I'll spend the cash for an excellent set of dado blade
that do, in fact, produce a perfectly straight and square bottom withOUT
bat ears and I won't feel the need to clean the cut up with the router.

Check out the Northwoods Dado-Master from Ridge Carbide Tools
http://ridgecarbidetool.com/dado-set...do-master.html

I've had mine for about 15 years now, and have been completely satisfied with it. I bought it
at the Woodworking Show when both Forrest and Ridge were exhibiting, and compared
test cuts from the two side-by-side. I couldn't see any point in the Forrest Dado King: why
pay more money for lesser results? The Ridge dado set is two-thirds the price of the
Forrest, and gives better cuts. The bottom is dead flat, and the bat ears are almost
imperceptible without a magnifying glass, whereas the Forrest leaves tiny but still readily
visible bat ears.

On 1/20/17 7:31 AM, Doug Miller wrote:
-MIKE- wrote in news
[...]

Maybe one day I'll spend the cash for an excellent set of dado blade
that do, in fact, produce a perfectly straight and square bottom withOUT
bat ears and I won't feel the need to clean the cut up with the router.

Check out the Northwoods Dado-Master from Ridge Carbide Tools
http://ridgecarbidetool.com/dado-set...do-master.html

I've had mine for about 15 years now, and have been completely satisfied with it. I bought it
at the Woodworking Show when both Forrest and Ridge were exhibiting, and compared
test cuts from the two side-by-side. I couldn't see any point in the Forrest Dado King: why
pay more money for lesser results? The Ridge dado set is two-thirds the price of the
Forrest, and gives better cuts. The bottom is dead flat, and the bat ears are almost
imperceptible without a magnifying glass, whereas the Forrest leaves tiny but still readily
visible bat ears.


That's one I have bookmarked. I've hear great things about that set.
Have to admit I'm not very happy to hear even those leave bat ears,
though.

The dial-a-dado is the other set on my list.
I think the convenience would be worth the extra money.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 23:18:56 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 1/19/17 9:12 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 21:02:16 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 1/19/17 8:47 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 20:42:30 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 1/19/17 8:06 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 13:06:09 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 1/19/17 12:02 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 19 Jan 2017 07:17:02 -0500, "dadiOH"
wrote:


"Leon" lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in message
...
On 1/18/2017 6:20 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 1/18/2017 6:51 PM, Electric Comet wrote:
at first it sounds like an interesting idea but
introducing a little too much chaos for me


they are inexpensive but would not think it would
be good for the saw or the material or the
operator



who has used a wobble dado


the cut could not have come out very good



You want cheap or quality? You want "close enough"
or professional cuts and fit? The corners won't be
as square because of the way it cuts. Another
opinion here
http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/wobbledado.html




Actually the sides of the dado are square to the surface
of the material but the bottom is rounded so it is
not square to the sides of the dado.

I have used a wobble dado many times.

It is not harmful to the saw and it runs very
smoothly.

From there, the cuts suck. The wobble dado sets cut
rounded bottom dados. If you are using construction
grade lumber and need to cut dados the wobble dado
will suffice for rough work.

Don't use if for furniture.

I do. From time to time. The slightly rounded bottom
can be handled in a couple of ways...

1. Ignore it.

2. Clean it. I have a dado cleaning router bit for
that purpose.

But mostly, I use my wobble dado to hog out most but
not all of the dado/groove I want. It does that very
well. I then finish with one pass of a router bit for
final width and depth.

How do you guide the router? Seems if you're going to
all that trouble it would be easier to just use the
router.


True, in some cases and as usually it just depends on what
you're doing. While router bits are great for making,
clean, precise, square cuts, they are not particularly well
suited for hogging out a bunch of material.

Multiple passes?

If it takes multiple passes, then that kind of proves it's not
good for hogging out a lot of material, right?

Of course. We all understand routers, here. However, it's only
one setup. I worry about registration errors if I were to use
two tools for one operation.

Often, when I do this, I'm hogging it out on the TS a little shy of
the total dimension. Then the router cuts the final dimensions,
usually barely taking any wood with it.

Whether you want to take a lot or not, the registration has to be
perfect. ...or you will. ;-)

I may be misunderstanding what you mean by registration.
Let's say I need a 3/4" dado cut exactly between 23-1/4" and 24" from
the end of a bookcase side. On the table saw, maybe I will only cut a
5/8 dado slot at 23-15/16" from the edge and a tad shy of full depth.
When I route the final dado slot with the router, I set my guide to the
24" and cut. It makes a very clean edge on all three sides, only having
to cut 1/16" all around. That's just an example.

Ah! That's what I missed. I thought you were only cleaning up the
bottoms with the router.

It's really not different than rough cutting a sheet of plywood a little
large, then cutting down to the final dimension on the TS. The rough
cut is largely irrelevant and the critical measurement is only done once.

Yes, now I see. You're just using the saw as the rough cut, much like
I use the track saw for the rough cut, cleaning it up with the table
saw.

With my dado jig, the process is very fast.
https://goo.gl/photos/StFnQBzCj3J9NCcp8

Very nice. Bunch of good ideas hiding in there. Thanks!

Thank you, it's been really good to me.
Like many of my jigs, it was only intended to be a rough prototype that
would serve as a template for a final version. But it works so well, I
just stuck with it.