I need to cut some 4-6 inch saplings for a project (shag bark hickory). After I get the tree down, I need to limb it and clean up the brush. Because of park regulations, I can't use mechanical devices (no Stihl). I've used a bow saw in the past but that has been truly, truly a difficult process. Maybe the bow saw is just dull, I don't know. I wonder if there is some excellent saw out there that really hogs out a kerf.

Thanks.

On Monday, August 31, 2015 at 8:56:33 PM UTC-7, Michael wrote:
I need to cut some 4-6 inch saplings for a project (shag bark hickory). After I get the tree down, I need to limb it and clean up the brush.

Sounds like an easy task for a light axe...
Bow saws are OK for limbing, awkward for low-stump-height cuts,
and really excellent at sawbuck/crosscut for making firewood.

Michael wrote in
:

I need to cut some 4-6 inch saplings for a project (shag bark
hickory). After I get the tree down, I need to limb it and clean up
the brush. Because of park regulations, I can't use mechanical devices
(no Stihl). I've used a bow saw in the past but that has been truly,
truly a difficult process. Maybe the bow saw is just dull, I don't
know. I wonder if there is some excellent saw out there that really
hogs out a kerf.

Thanks.

If you think the bow saw blade is dull, it is. Time to either sharpen it
or get a new blade.

The bow saw I've used was a 16"ish long model, and with a decent and
sharp blade just goes right on through limbs. I've also used a pole saw,
and they work as long great as long as you're cutting near the tree. If
you try to take a limb down that's 4-5 feet away from the trunk, it will
tend to grab instead of cut.

No Stihl, but what about a battery powered Sawzall-style saw? Porter
Cable made some pruning blades (I found them at Lowe's) that looked like
they'd work great. I haven't tried them, it's just too much hassle for
me to haul out the extension cord (I've only the tailed model) when the
bow saw and pole saw work.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

I purchased from Florian several years back. I bought a pole saw and separate ratcheting pruner. The tools have a 2 foot fiberglass handle for close work plus a telescoping 16-18 foot fiberglass pole for heights. The saw has a very aggressive blade. I've never seen them in stores.

I need to cut some 4-6 inch saplings for a project (shag bark hickory).
After I get the tree down, I need to limb it and clean up the brush.
because of park regulations, I can't use mechanical devices (no Stihl).
I've used a bow saw in the past but that has been truly, truly a difficult process.
Maybe the bow saw is just dull, I don't know.
I wonder if there is some excellent saw out there that really hogs out a kerf.
Thanks.


These, or anything similar ..

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...56&cat=1,41131

Note the difference between the green-wood blade vs
the dry-wood blade.

Even the cheapo versions of these will cut well.

John T


--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

"Michael" wrote in message
...

I need to cut some 4-6 inch saplings for a project (shag bark hickory).
After I get the tree down, I need to limb it and clean up the brush.
Because of park regulations, I can't use mechanical devices (no Stihl).
I've used a bow saw in the past but that has been truly, truly a difficult
process. Maybe the bow saw is just dull, I don't know. I wonder if there is
some excellent saw out there that really hogs out a kerf.


You can still use a Stihl... ;~)
http://www.stihlusa.com/products/han...-pruning-saws/

While I've used a bow saw for such work for decades I've found that a good
pruning saw is much better. I particularly like those with curved blades as
they help keep the blade in the kerf when my sawing position is not good.
The pruning saw also lets you make cuts where a bow saw's frame would not
have clearance.

I also have a Snap-Cut pole pruner. I've had it for 20+ years and use it
regularly with no problems. It too has a curved blade.
http://www.gilmour.com/pruning-tools...n-tree-pruner/

I've used the pole saw to limb trees in tight urban settings before taking
them down with with my Stihl M271... neighbors haven't complained as I've
cut stuff up for them too. ;~)

John

Michael was heard to mutter:
I need to cut some 4-6 inch saplings for a project (shag bark hickory). After I get the tree down, I need to limb it and clean up the brush.Because of park regulations, I can't use mechanical devices (no Stihl). I've used a bow saw in the past but that has been truly, truly a difficult process. Maybe the bow saw is just dull, I don't know. I wonder if there is some excellent saw out there that really hogs out a kerf.
Thanks.

I am limited on storage space so I always look for tools that fit my
needs with a minimum of space. I also like having a saw handy for when
I am out on the road and come across something worthy of carving, all
of which is small. So I use and carry one of these...

http://www.amazon.com/Opinel-Degree1...rds=opinel+saw

Works great. Fast hand cuts. I leave this one in the trunk and carry
the 6 inch model with me. Easy to resharpen.

http://www.amazon.com/Opinel-inch-Be...rds=opinel+saw

`Casper

I have a generic bow saw that's really sharp, and it tears through green
limbs like they're butter. Heck, I've seen two-person saws rip through
trunks almost as fast as a chainsaw, but only because they're properly
maintained and sharpened.

So, sharpen first, and if it still doesn't cut right, *then* think about
a replacement ;-)

DJ Delorie wrote:
I have a generic bow saw that's really sharp, and it tears through
green limbs like they're butter. Heck, I've seen two-person saws rip
through trunks almost as fast as a chainsaw, but only because they're
properly maintained and sharpened.

So, sharpen first, and if it still doesn't cut right, *then* think
about a replacement ;-)

I've used both and I've never seen any two person saw cut through a tree as
fast as a chain saw, assuming both were properly sharpened. Not even close.

--

-Mike-

In article ,
says...

I need to cut some 4-6 inch saplings for a project (shag bark hickory). After I get the tree down, I need to limb it and clean up the brush. Because of park regulations, I can't use mechanical devices (no Stihl). I've used a bow saw in the past but that has been truly, truly a difficult process. Maybe the bow saw is just dull, I don't know. I wonder if there is some excellent saw out there that really hogs out a kerf.

Thanks.

Try a pull saw. Used to be you could get a Shark at Home Depot--they're
really decent for the price. Now it's Dewalt at Home Depot and Irwin at
Lowes, for 20-25 bucks.

You want the double-edged model. Try it--you'll either love it or hate
it. If you love it but need a longer or coarser saw there are other
brands available online. If you hate it you haven't spent much.

Harbor freight has battery versions of chainsaws.
I'd look at them but even those might be mechanical devices -
maybe it is gas powered devices.

Pollution and oils are bad for the forest.

Martin

On 8/31/2015 11:37 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
Michael wrote in
:

I need to cut some 4-6 inch saplings for a project (shag bark
hickory). After I get the tree down, I need to limb it and clean up
the brush. Because of park regulations, I can't use mechanical devices
(no Stihl). I've used a bow saw in the past but that has been truly,
truly a difficult process. Maybe the bow saw is just dull, I don't
know. I wonder if there is some excellent saw out there that really
hogs out a kerf.

Thanks.

If you think the bow saw blade is dull, it is. Time to either sharpen it
or get a new blade.

The bow saw I've used was a 16"ish long model, and with a decent and
sharp blade just goes right on through limbs. I've also used a pole saw,
and they work as long great as long as you're cutting near the tree. If
you try to take a limb down that's 4-5 feet away from the trunk, it will
tend to grab instead of cut.

No Stihl, but what about a battery powered Sawzall-style saw? Porter
Cable made some pruning blades (I found them at Lowe's) that looked like
they'd work great. I haven't tried them, it's just too much hassle for
me to haul out the extension cord (I've only the tailed model) when the
bow saw and pole saw work.

Puckdropper

On 9/1/2015 12:37 AM, Puckdropper wrote:

No Stihl, but what about a battery powered Sawzall-style saw? Porter
Cable made some pruning blades (I found them at Lowe's) that looked like
they'd work great. I haven't tried them, it's just too much hassle for
me to haul out the extension cord (I've only the tailed model) when the
bow saw and pole saw work.

I have a battery powered Sawzall with a pruning blade and it works
fantastic. Cut's up to about 5" branch like butter. Haven't used my
bow saw since getting this blade.

--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com

On 9/2/2015 8:12 AM, Jack wrote:
On 9/1/2015 12:37 AM, Puckdropper wrote:

No Stihl, but what about a battery powered Sawzall-style saw? Porter
Cable made some pruning blades (I found them at Lowe's) that looked like
they'd work great. I haven't tried them, it's just too much hassle for
me to haul out the extension cord (I've only the tailed model) when the
bow saw and pole saw work.

I have a battery powered Sawzall with a pruning blade and it works
fantastic. Cut's up to about 5" branch like butter. Haven't used my
bow saw since getting this blade.



Actually tree wood is like lumber. ;~) I always used a standard demo
blade to trim trees with my recip saw.

Actually tree wood is like lumber. ;~) I always used a standard demo
blade to trim trees with my recip saw.

A reciprocating saw is great for cutting roots or stumps too. I use a 12"
blade and can cut right down in the dirt with it. It dulls up fairly
quickly, but a few reciprocating blades are a lot cheaper than a new chain
for my saw. Best tool I have found for digging out stumps (short of renting
a stump grinder).

For cutting high limbs I picked up a TPS30 pole saw from
www.americantreeservicesupply.com. They're definitely not cheap at $200,
but it's less expensive than hiring a arborist. We have a lot of trees on
our property and have used the pole saw a lot. It gets a little unweildy
beyond 4 sections, but I have cut several 4" limbs 30 feet off the ground.

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

Actually tree wood is like lumber. ;~) I always used a standard demo
blade to trim trees with my recip saw.



A reciprocating saw is great for cutting roots or stumps too. I use a 12"
blade and can cut right down in the dirt with it.


Here's one - not 12 inches though - only 7 ...

http://www.leevalley.com/en/Garden/p...706,40721&ap=1

If the original poster has a cordless recip. saw - this would be
just the ticket ...

John T.


--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: ---

On 9/2/2015 9:34 AM, Leon wrote:
On 9/2/2015 8:12 AM, Jack wrote:

I have a battery powered Sawzall with a pruning blade and it works
fantastic. Cut's up to about 5" branch like butter. Haven't used my
bow saw since getting this blade.

Actually tree wood is like lumber. ;~) I always used a standard demo
blade to trim trees with my recip saw.

Green Tree wood is a lot different than dry lumber. Look at the teeth
on a bow saw, then look at the teeth on a standard demo saw designed to
cut lumber and metal. There is a big difference. A pruning blade for
your reciprocating is like a bow saw blade, and cuts at least 3 times
faster and with far less effort than a standard demo blade.

Try cutting across a 2x4 with a hack saw, then do it with a standard
carpenters crosscut saw. You will quickly see that both work, but one is
much better at it.

--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com

On 9/3/2015 8:18 AM, Jack wrote:
On 9/2/2015 9:34 AM, Leon wrote:
On 9/2/2015 8:12 AM, Jack wrote:

I have a battery powered Sawzall with a pruning blade and it works
fantastic. Cut's up to about 5" branch like butter. Haven't used my
bow saw since getting this blade.

Actually tree wood is like lumber. ;~) I always used a standard demo
blade to trim trees with my recip saw.

Green Tree wood is a lot different than dry lumber. Look at the teeth
on a bow saw, then look at the teeth on a standard demo saw designed to
cut lumber and metal. There is a big difference. A pruning blade for
your reciprocating is like a bow saw blade, and cuts at least 3 times
faster and with far less effort than a standard demo blade.

Try cutting across a 2x4 with a hack saw, then do it with a standard
carpenters crosscut saw. You will quickly see that both work, but one is
much better at it.


So I just checked 3 pruning blades for a recip saw, Diablo and
Milwaukee. 5 TPI My Recip has 6 TPI. The depth of the gullets look
like they might be a bit deeper by looking at the picture. But all
three are closer to my demo blade than a bow saw blade.


Regardless a standard demo blade cuts plenty fast. so cutting a 4" limb
takes me 9 seconds, with a dull demo blade, vs 3, I can live with that
and save the money.

On 9/3/2015 9:32 AM, Leon wrote:
On 9/3/2015 8:18 AM, Jack wrote:
On 9/2/2015 9:34 AM, Leon wrote:
On 9/2/2015 8:12 AM, Jack wrote:

I have a battery powered Sawzall with a pruning blade and it works
fantastic. Cut's up to about 5" branch like butter. Haven't used my
bow saw since getting this blade.

Actually tree wood is like lumber. ;~) I always used a standard demo
blade to trim trees with my recip saw.

Green Tree wood is a lot different than dry lumber. Look at the teeth
on a bow saw, then look at the teeth on a standard demo saw designed to
cut lumber and metal. There is a big difference. A pruning blade for
your reciprocating is like a bow saw blade, and cuts at least 3 times
faster and with far less effort than a standard demo blade.

Try cutting across a 2x4 with a hack saw, then do it with a standard
carpenters crosscut saw. You will quickly see that both work, but one is
much better at it.


So I just checked 3 pruning blades for a recip saw, Diablo and
Milwaukee. 5 TPI My Recip has 6 TPI. The depth of the gullets look
like they might be a bit deeper by looking at the picture. But all
three are closer to my demo blade than a bow saw blade.

The gullets on my Milwaukee pruning blade are a LOT deeper than on the
demo blades, and the teeth are not all equal length, and the points are
sharper on the pruner.

Regardless a standard demo blade cuts plenty fast. so cutting a 4" limb
takes me 9 seconds, with a dull demo blade, vs 3, I can live with that
and save the money.

Do what you want. Too cheap to spend $5 on the correct blade that cuts
way faster because it is designed for the job. Do you also cut lumber
with a hack saw? Same difference. I've used both, and if you have much
pruning to do, the pruning blade is well worth it.





--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com

On 9/3/2015 10:00 AM, Jack wrote:
On 9/3/2015 9:32 AM, Leon wrote:
On 9/3/2015 8:18 AM, Jack wrote:
On 9/2/2015 9:34 AM, Leon wrote:
On 9/2/2015 8:12 AM, Jack wrote:

I have a battery powered Sawzall with a pruning blade and it works
fantastic. Cut's up to about 5" branch like butter. Haven't used my
bow saw since getting this blade.

Actually tree wood is like lumber. ;~) I always used a standard demo
blade to trim trees with my recip saw.

Green Tree wood is a lot different than dry lumber. Look at the teeth
on a bow saw, then look at the teeth on a standard demo saw designed to
cut lumber and metal. There is a big difference. A pruning blade for
your reciprocating is like a bow saw blade, and cuts at least 3 times
faster and with far less effort than a standard demo blade.

Try cutting across a 2x4 with a hack saw, then do it with a standard
carpenters crosscut saw. You will quickly see that both work, but one is
much better at it.


So I just checked 3 pruning blades for a recip saw, Diablo and
Milwaukee. 5 TPI My Recip has 6 TPI. The depth of the gullets look
like they might be a bit deeper by looking at the picture. But all
three are closer to my demo blade than a bow saw blade.

The gullets on my Milwaukee pruning blade are a LOT deeper than on the
demo blades, and the teeth are not all equal length, and the points are
sharper on the pruner.

Then that would probably make a lot of difference.


Regardless a standard demo blade cuts plenty fast. so cutting a 4" limb
takes me 9 seconds, with a dull demo blade, vs 3, I can live with that
and save the money.

Do what you want. Too cheap to spend $5 on the correct blade that cuts
way faster because it is designed for the job. Do you also cut lumber
with a hack saw? Same difference. I've used both, and if you have much
pruning to do, the pruning blade is well worth it.

I trim 3~4 limbs a year.... And in my new house I have not trimmed a
limb in 5 years. ;~)

On 9/3/2015 8:40 PM, Leon wrote:
On 9/3/2015 10:00 AM, Jack wrote:
On 9/3/2015 9:32 AM, Leon wrote:
On 9/3/2015 8:18 AM, Jack wrote:
On 9/2/2015 9:34 AM, Leon wrote:
On 9/2/2015 8:12 AM, Jack wrote:

I have a battery powered Sawzall with a pruning blade and it works
fantastic. Cut's up to about 5" branch like butter. Haven't used my
bow saw since getting this blade.

Actually tree wood is like lumber. ;~) I always used a standard demo
blade to trim trees with my recip saw.

Green Tree wood is a lot different than dry lumber. Look at the teeth
on a bow saw, then look at the teeth on a standard demo saw designed to
cut lumber and metal. There is a big difference. A pruning blade for
your reciprocating is like a bow saw blade, and cuts at least 3 times
faster and with far less effort than a standard demo blade.

Try cutting across a 2x4 with a hack saw, then do it with a standard
carpenters crosscut saw. You will quickly see that both work, but
one is
much better at it.


So I just checked 3 pruning blades for a recip saw, Diablo and
Milwaukee. 5 TPI My Recip has 6 TPI. The depth of the gullets look
like they might be a bit deeper by looking at the picture. But all
three are closer to my demo blade than a bow saw blade.

The gullets on my Milwaukee pruning blade are a LOT deeper than on the
demo blades, and the teeth are not all equal length, and the points are
sharper on the pruner.

Then that would probably make a lot of difference.


Regardless a standard demo blade cuts plenty fast. so cutting a 4" limb
takes me 9 seconds, with a dull demo blade, vs 3, I can live with that
and save the money.

Do what you want. Too cheap to spend $5 on the correct blade that cuts
way faster because it is designed for the job. Do you also cut lumber
with a hack saw? Same difference. I've used both, and if you have much
pruning to do, the pruning blade is well worth it.

I trim 3~4 limbs a year.... And in my new house I have not trimmed a
limb in 5 years. ;~)


Oh and FWIW I was not trying to undermine the efficiency of using a job
specific blade for pruning. I have an old recip saw that I hardly use
any more and you change blades with a hex wrench so that is a PIA for
me. I just wanted to mention that the demo blade works fine if it is in
the saw and you don't have many limbs to cut.

I almost bought a pruning blade for the saw 10~15 years ago but only had
a few limbs to cut. I decided to try the demo blade and was pleased.
BUT once my 4 year old tree gets big enough that loppers no longer work
I may try out the pruning blade.

On Monday, August 31, 2015 at 10:56:33 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
I need to cut some 4-6 inch saplings for a project (shag bark hickory). After I get the tree down, I need to limb it and clean up the brush. Because of park regulations, I can't use mechanical devices (no Stihl). I've used a bow saw in the past but that has been truly, truly a difficult process. Maybe the bow saw is just dull, I don't know. I wonder if there is some excellent saw out there that really hogs out a kerf.

Thanks.

Thanks everyone for the great replies! I'm first going to try to sharpen the saw blade because maybe I'll learn something. The next step is to by a new blade. And the dream is to buy one of those excellent limb saws.

Michael wrote in
:


Thanks everyone for the great replies! I'm first going to try to
sharpen the saw blade because maybe I'll learn something. The next
step is to by a new blade. And the dream is to buy one of those
excellent limb saws.


I had the little bow saw out tonight, and noticed the teeth are sharpened
simply and very much like a hand saw. Grab a file, put on some music and
just follow the angle. You may want to put just the blade in a vise, but
whatever works.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

"Puckdropper" wrote in message
eb.com...

I had the little bow saw out tonight, and noticed the teeth are sharpened
simply and very much like a hand saw. Grab a file, put on some music and
just follow the angle. You may want to put just the blade in a vise, but
whatever works.

The problem with "modern" bow saw blades is that most if not all of them
have hardened teeth, i.e., they are throw aways.

John Grossbohlin wrote:
"Puckdropper" wrote in message
eb.com...

I had the little bow saw out tonight, and noticed the teeth are
sharpened
simply and very much like a hand saw. Grab a file, put on some music
and
just follow the angle. You may want to put just the blade in a vise,
but
whatever works.

The problem with "modern" bow saw blades is that most if not all of
them have hardened teeth, i.e., they are throw aways.

Since you brought it up, I'm curious. What about hand saws (and tree
saws) like you would find in a big-box store. Same thing (i.e. hardened
teeth)? How about their expensive counterparts sold by the likes of
Veritas Tools, etc.

Bill

Michael wrote:
On Monday, August 31, 2015 at 10:56:33 PM UTC-5, Michael wrote:
I need to cut some 4-6 inch saplings for a project (shag bark
hickory). After I get the tree down, I need to limb it and clean up
the brush. Because of park regulations, I can't use mechanical
devices (no Stihl). I've used a bow saw in the past but that has
been truly, truly a difficult process. Maybe the bow saw is just
dull, I don't know. I wonder if there is some excellent saw out
there that really hogs out a kerf.

Thanks.

Thanks everyone for the great replies! I'm first going to try to
sharpen the saw blade because maybe I'll learn something. The next
step is to by a new blade. And the dream is to buy one of those
excellent limb saws.

FWIW - If I can reach, or easily get up to the branch, I use my limb saw
that I carry with my tree stand for deer hunting. It's got a folding blade
that is probably around 9" long or so, and cuts very fast. Very aggressive.
The one I keep with my tree stand is a good one, but I also have the same
saw in a HF model - and it performs just as well. These saws work much
better than a bow saw - faster, one handed, and the blade does not get
pinched in the cut like a bow saw does.

Here's the HF version...

http://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-...saw-97343.html


--

-Mike-

"Bill" wrote in message ...

John Grossbohlin wrote:

The problem with "modern" bow saw blades is that most if not all of them
have hardened teeth, i.e., they are throw aways.

Since you brought it up, I'm curious. What about hand saws (and tree
saws) like you would find in a big-box store. Same thing (i.e. hardened
teeth)? How about their expensive counterparts sold by the likes of
Veritas Tools, etc.

I've seen both... but the majority I've check on have hardened teeth.

I pulled up the Stihl site and they have this message on some of the pruning
saw listings "Impulse-hardened blades cannot be sharpened." The impulse
hardened blade appears on their $89 saw as well as others... Other Stihl
pages list the blades as being chromed or nickeled which would seem to
preclude sharpening... but perhaps not.

http://www.stihlusa.com/products/han...-pruning-saws/

"John Grossbohlin" wrote in message
...

"Bill" wrote in message ...

John Grossbohlin wrote:

The problem with "modern" bow saw blades is that most if not all of them
have hardened teeth, i.e., they are throw aways.

Since you brought it up, I'm curious. What about hand saws (and tree
saws) like you would find in a big-box store. Same thing (i.e. hardened
teeth)? How about their expensive counterparts sold by the likes of
Veritas Tools, etc.

I've seen both... but the majority I've check on have hardened teeth.

I pulled up the Stihl site and they have this message on some of the pruning
saw listings "Impulse-hardened blades cannot be sharpened." The impulse
hardened blade appears on their $89 saw as well as others... Other Stihl
pages list the blades as being chromed or nickeled which would seem to
preclude sharpening... but perhaps not.

http://www.stihlusa.com/products/han...-pruning-saws/

P.S. this isn't necessarily a bad thing for around the house use as my
Snap-Cut pole saw/lopper is over 20 years old and it still cuts just fine.
If I used it daily in a professional capacity that would be OK too as the
blades are easily changed and are still available.

In article ,
says...

"Bill" wrote in message ...

John Grossbohlin wrote:

The problem with "modern" bow saw blades is that most if not all of them
have hardened teeth, i.e., they are throw aways.

Since you brought it up, I'm curious. What about hand saws (and tree
saws) like you would find in a big-box store. Same thing (i.e. hardened
teeth)? How about their expensive counterparts sold by the likes of
Veritas Tools, etc.

I've seen both... but the majority I've check on have hardened teeth.

I pulled up the Stihl site and they have this message on some of the pruning
saw listings "Impulse-hardened blades cannot be sharpened." The impulse
hardened blade appears on their $89 saw as well as others... Other Stihl
pages list the blades as being chromed or nickeled which would seem to
preclude sharpening... but perhaps not.

http://www.stihlusa.com/products/han...-pruning-saws/

With a diamond file you can sharpen just about anything (I've sharpened
ceramic knives with one) but you're going to cut through the plating or
hardened case and then you may be cutting with some pretty soft metal.

On 9/3/2015 9:58 PM, Leon wrote:

Oh and FWIW I was not trying to undermine the efficiency of using a job
specific blade for pruning. I have an old recip saw that I hardly use
any more and you change blades with a hex wrench so that is a PIA for
me. I just wanted to mention that the demo blade works fine if it is in
the saw and you don't have many limbs to cut.

I almost bought a pruning blade for the saw 10~15 years ago but only had
a few limbs to cut. I decided to try the demo blade and was pleased.
BUT once my 4 year old tree gets big enough that loppers no longer work
I may try out the pruning blade.

Well no, no need to change or buy a special purpose blade for that. I
always used a bow saw for branches too big for a standard tree pruner.
I bought a package of mixed Milwaukee blades for my recip saw and it had
the pruner blade in the mix. The thing is scary sharp, you have to be
careful just picking it up. I won't say it was jaw dropping but close,
and I haven't touched the bow saw since using it.

I have a lot of trees that needed pruning and I always did the minimum
needed. This blade made it easy, actually fun, so there hasn't been any
pruning not done since using this saw. In fact a row of about 25 old
pine trees I loped off all the bottom branches up to about 8-10 feet.
The blade cuts so effortlessly, batteries last a long time.

--
Jack
Add Life to your Days not Days to your Life.
http://jbstein.com

On 9/10/2015 12:09 PM, Jack wrote:
On 9/3/2015 9:58 PM, Leon wrote:

Oh and FWIW I was not trying to undermine the efficiency of using a job
specific blade for pruning. I have an old recip saw that I hardly use
any more and you change blades with a hex wrench so that is a PIA for
me. I just wanted to mention that the demo blade works fine if it is in
the saw and you don't have many limbs to cut.

I almost bought a pruning blade for the saw 10~15 years ago but only had
a few limbs to cut. I decided to try the demo blade and was pleased.
BUT once my 4 year old tree gets big enough that loppers no longer work
I may try out the pruning blade.

Well no, no need to change or buy a special purpose blade for that. I
always used a bow saw for branches too big for a standard tree pruner. I
bought a package of mixed Milwaukee blades for my recip saw and it had
the pruner blade in the mix. The thing is scary sharp, you have to be
careful just picking it up. I won't say it was jaw dropping but close,
and I haven't touched the bow saw since using it.

Always a bonus when you get an assortment with a blade that you think
you may not use but find it to be a great blade when you do use it. ;~)


I have a lot of trees that needed pruning and I always did the minimum
needed. This blade made it easy, actually fun, so there hasn't been any
pruning not done since using this saw. In fact a row of about 25 old
pine trees I loped off all the bottom branches up to about 8-10 feet.
The blade cuts so effortlessly, batteries last a long time.


Given the correct tool work does become less tedious, kinda like I don't
mind sanding these days. ;~)