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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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The shed wall
Behind my garage there is an attached shed. I opened the (plywood)
doors a while back and they came off in my hand. Last weekend I planned on fixing them but . . . Turns out the reason they came off was that trim into which the hinges were screwed was rotten. So pulled it off and the T1-11 under it was rotten. So pulled that off and the studs were rotten. So demoed the whole wall preparatory to rebuilding it and the sill plates were not just rotten but an ant farm. Well, decided to fix it _right_ so I'm not fixing it again in my 90s. Also gave me an opportunity to give it a wider door to fit a modern riding mower. So today's activity was going to be to put down some cinder blocks to raise the sill 8 inches above the ground. Well, turns out that every single beeping one of the sill anchors is on a web of the cinder blocks. Every . . . single . . . blasted . . . one. AAAARRRRRGGGGGGG!!!!!! Now I'm torn between just putting a few bricks on the ends to shift the webs over or cutting off the anchors and planting new ones. Economic sense says bricks. Lust for an SDS drill says new anchors. Decisions, decisions . . . |
#2
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The shed wall
Move the cinder blocks forward or backward to miss the bolts.
And then get threaded couples to raise the bolts that much higher? Also pre-drill some anchor so that the new concrete adheres and sticks to the new additions. You can use Simpson Epoxy to set the new steel pins also. john "J. Clarke" wrote in message ... Behind my garage there is an attached shed. I opened the (plywood) doors a while back and they came off in my hand. Last weekend I planned on fixing them but . . . Turns out the reason they came off was that trim into which the hinges were screwed was rotten. So pulled it off and the T1-11 under it was rotten. So pulled that off and the studs were rotten. So demoed the whole wall preparatory to rebuilding it and the sill plates were not just rotten but an ant farm. Well, decided to fix it _right_ so I'm not fixing it again in my 90s. Also gave me an opportunity to give it a wider door to fit a modern riding mower. So today's activity was going to be to put down some cinder blocks to raise the sill 8 inches above the ground. Well, turns out that every single beeping one of the sill anchors is on a web of the cinder blocks. Every . . . single . . . blasted . . . one. AAAARRRRRGGGGGGG!!!!!! Now I'm torn between just putting a few bricks on the ends to shift the webs over or cutting off the anchors and planting new ones. Economic sense says bricks. Lust for an SDS drill says new anchors. Decisions, decisions . . . |
#3
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The shed wall
On 6/21/2015 8:37 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
Behind my garage there is an attached shed. I opened the (plywood) doors a while back and they came off in my hand. Last weekend I planned on fixing them but . . . Turns out the reason they came off was that trim into which the hinges were screwed was rotten. So pulled it off and the T1-11 under it was rotten. So pulled that off and the studs were rotten. So demoed the whole wall preparatory to rebuilding it and the sill plates were not just rotten but an ant farm. Well, decided to fix it _right_ so I'm not fixing it again in my 90s. Also gave me an opportunity to give it a wider door to fit a modern riding mower. So today's activity was going to be to put down some cinder blocks to raise the sill 8 inches above the ground. Well, turns out that every single beeping one of the sill anchors is on a web of the cinder blocks. Every . . . single . . . blasted . . . one. AAAARRRRRGGGGGGG!!!!!! Now I'm torn between just putting a few bricks on the ends to shift the webs over or cutting off the anchors and planting new ones. Economic sense says bricks. Lust for an SDS drill says new anchors. Decisions, decisions . . . Your experience sounds so familiar. I don't know how many my project started out with "How difficult can it be to replace a hinge". How is the rest of the shed. Is it such that you should check other walls for rot and ants and possibly replace the whole thing? What ever you do I would treat the area under the shed for ants and termites before continue with the project. |
#4
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The shed wall
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#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
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The shed wall
Behind my garage there is an attached shed. I opened the (plywood)
doors a while back and they came off in my hand. Last weekend I planned on fixing them but . . . Turns out the reason they came off was that trim into which the hinges were screwed was rotten. So pulled it off and the T1-11 under it was rotten. So pulled that off and the studs were rotten. So demoed the whole wall preparatory to rebuilding it and the sill plates were not just rotten but an ant farm. Well, decided to fix it _right_ so I'm not fixing it again in my 90s. Also gave me an opportunity to give it a wider door to fit a modern riding mower. So today's activity was going to be to put down some cinder blocks to raise the sill 8 inches above the ground. Well, turns out that every single beeping one of the sill anchors is on a web of the cinder blocks. Every . . . single . . . blasted . . . one. AAAARRRRRGGGGGGG!!!!!! Now I'm torn between just putting a few bricks on the ends to shift the webs over or cutting off the anchors and planting new ones. Economic sense says bricks. Lust for an SDS drill says new anchors. Decisions, decisions . . . What about building some simple forms and pouring concrete? That would be a lot stronger (especially if you add a piece of rebar reinforcement), and seems like a lot less work. You didn't mention what kind of floor your shed has, but if it's a wooden floor it might be smarter to just pour a concrete slab for it. Mix-on-site concrete trucks are great for small projects like this. No waste and you only pay for what you need. Good luck! Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com |
#6
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The shed wall
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#7
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The shed wall
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#8
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The shed wall
What, pouring concrete is less work than setting a half a dozen cinder
blocks? I guess it depends on what you're more familiar with. It would be a simple matter to set up a couple of forms, pour in some concrete, and level it off. Especially for a job that small. I know blocks are common in many parts of the country, but I don't care for them and have no experience with them. For me concrete would be a lot easier to work with. With the cinder blocks you'll still need to mix up mortar, try to keep things straight and level, and maybe fill the block cores with mortar. I should have mentioned that it's slab-on-grade and the sill anchors in question are the ones that secured the rotted-out sill to the slab. The whole idea is to get the sills 8 inches above grade as is required by most building codes. Are you raising the door too? Unless you're leaving an opening in the block wall for a doorway, won't that complicate getting your mower and other items in and out of the shed? Is it possible to regrade the area around the shed to gain clearance without having to raise the shed wall? Another option might be to add an overhang and/or gutter to the roof so water is directed away from the building. You could also put rock or concrete around the perimeter of the exterior to minimize splashback on the wall. I have concrete pavers in front of our shed with only 3-4" clearance between the siding and pavers. No ill effects in 20 years. Alternatively, you could simply add a strip along the bottom of the shed that is impervious to water. Metal flashing, PVC or composite lumber, etc. that would let you raise the bottom of the siding up as needed to keep the wood away from the ground. I used that approach on my in-laws garage since we weren't replacing the existing studs. Finally, what about the other walls of the shed? If they haven't rotted, what is different about them? More ground clearance, roof covering, etc.? Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com |
#9
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The shed wall
Bolt some good pressure treated 4x6 to the existing bolts and go for it.
"J. Clarke" wrote in message ... Behind my garage there is an attached shed. I opened the (plywood) doors a while back and they came off in my hand. Last weekend I planned on fixing them but . . . Turns out the reason they came off was that trim into which the hinges were screwed was rotten. So pulled it off and the T1-11 under it was rotten. So pulled that off and the studs were rotten. So demoed the whole wall preparatory to rebuilding it and the sill plates were not just rotten but an ant farm. Well, decided to fix it _right_ so I'm not fixing it again in my 90s. Also gave me an opportunity to give it a wider door to fit a modern riding mower. So today's activity was going to be to put down some cinder blocks to raise the sill 8 inches above the ground. Well, turns out that every single beeping one of the sill anchors is on a web of the cinder blocks. Every . . . single . . . blasted . . . one. AAAARRRRRGGGGGGG!!!!!! Now I'm torn between just putting a few bricks on the ends to shift the webs over or cutting off the anchors and planting new ones. Economic sense says bricks. Lust for an SDS drill says new anchors. Decisions, decisions . . . |
#11
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The shed wall
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#12
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The shed wall
On Mon, 22 Jun 2015 18:56:39 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote: In article , says... What, pouring concrete is less work than setting a half a dozen cinder blocks? I guess it depends on what you're more familiar with. It would be a simple matter to set up a couple of forms, pour in some concrete, and level it off. Especially for a job that small. I know blocks are common in many parts of the country, but I don't care for them and have no experience with them. For me concrete would be a lot easier to work with. With the cinder blocks you'll still need to mix up mortar, try to keep things straight and level, and maybe fill the block cores with mortar. Waiting for a concrete truck to arrive is not in the cards. I should have mentioned that it's slab-on-grade and the sill anchors in question are the ones that secured the rotted-out sill to the slab. The whole idea is to get the sills 8 inches above grade as is required by most building codes. Are you raising the door too? Unless you're leaving an opening in the block wall for a doorway, won't that complicate getting your mower and other items in and out of the shed? Leaving an opening. Is it possible to regrade the area around the shed to gain clearance without having to raise the shed wall? Nope. Not a chance. If I did that the slab would be suspended on air. Another option might be to add an overhang and/or gutter to the roof so water is directed away from the building. It's on a side already--water goes over the wall at a right angle. You could also put rock or concrete around the perimeter of the exterior to minimize splashback on the wall. I have concrete pavers in front of our shed with only 3-4" clearance between the siding and pavers. No ill effects in 20 years. Alternatively, you could simply add a strip along the bottom of the shed that is impervious to water. Metal flashing, PVC or composite lumber, etc. that would let you raise the bottom of the siding up as needed to keep the wood away from the ground. I used that approach on my in-laws garage since we weren't replacing the existing studs. Finally, what about the other walls of the shed? If they haven't rotted, what is different about them? More ground clearance, roof covering, etc.? One has and has been repaired, using the method that you suggest with flashing etc, but I don't really like that as a solution. Code says 8 inches, it's in code for a reason. In any case the decision is made--cut the anchors and replace them. One is placed so that I can't get a wider opening. Just make sure you use good concrete block, not the cheap lightweight cinder blocks. gasket the sill to the block with something like BluSeal to keep the sill from contacting the concrete. Use good S mortar to bed and lay the block course. (has both lime and portland in it) |
#13
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The shed wall
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#14
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The shed wall
On Mon, 22 Jun 2015 22:33:00 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote: In article , says... On Mon, 22 Jun 2015 18:56:39 -0400, "J. Clarke" wrote: In article , says... What, pouring concrete is less work than setting a half a dozen cinder blocks? I guess it depends on what you're more familiar with. It would be a simple matter to set up a couple of forms, pour in some concrete, and level it off. Especially for a job that small. I know blocks are common in many parts of the country, but I don't care for them and have no experience with them. For me concrete would be a lot easier to work with. With the cinder blocks you'll still need to mix up mortar, try to keep things straight and level, and maybe fill the block cores with mortar. Waiting for a concrete truck to arrive is not in the cards. I should have mentioned that it's slab-on-grade and the sill anchors in question are the ones that secured the rotted-out sill to the slab. The whole idea is to get the sills 8 inches above grade as is required by most building codes. Are you raising the door too? Unless you're leaving an opening in the block wall for a doorway, won't that complicate getting your mower and other items in and out of the shed? Leaving an opening. Is it possible to regrade the area around the shed to gain clearance without having to raise the shed wall? Nope. Not a chance. If I did that the slab would be suspended on air. Another option might be to add an overhang and/or gutter to the roof so water is directed away from the building. It's on a side already--water goes over the wall at a right angle. You could also put rock or concrete around the perimeter of the exterior to minimize splashback on the wall. I have concrete pavers in front of our shed with only 3-4" clearance between the siding and pavers. No ill effects in 20 years. Alternatively, you could simply add a strip along the bottom of the shed that is impervious to water. Metal flashing, PVC or composite lumber, etc. that would let you raise the bottom of the siding up as needed to keep the wood away from the ground. I used that approach on my in-laws garage since we weren't replacing the existing studs. Finally, what about the other walls of the shed? If they haven't rotted, what is different about them? More ground clearance, roof covering, etc.? One has and has been repaired, using the method that you suggest with flashing etc, but I don't really like that as a solution. Code says 8 inches, it's in code for a reason. In any case the decision is made--cut the anchors and replace them. One is placed so that I can't get a wider opening. Just make sure you use good concrete block, not the cheap lightweight cinder blocks. gasket the sill to the block with something like BluSeal to keep the sill from contacting the concrete. Use good S mortar to bed and lay the block course. (has both lime and portland in it) Geez, it's an effing shed, not Fort Knox. Cinder block is fine for the purpose. Until they soak up moisture, freeze, and disintigrate. For the difference in cost, use the right materials and do it once. Cinder block just does not stand up to moisture nearly as well as a quality concrete block. |
#15
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The shed wall
Waiting for a concrete truck to arrive is not in the cards.
For a small job like that you could always mix your own on site, but there's nothing wrong with block if you want to go that route. Another option might be to add an overhang and/or gutter to the roof so water is directed away from the building. It's on a side already--water goes over the wall at a right angle. ??? I'm not sure I understand what you mean. Is there an overhang above the wall you are replacing? If so, how far does it extend from the building, 6", 12", etc.? One has and has been repaired, using the method that you suggest with flashing etc, but I don't really like that as a solution. Code says 8 inches, it's in code for a reason. It only needs to be 8" on the exterior. They put wood framing in basements afterall. Actually, the solution jloomis mentioned with a pressure treated timber would be a good option too. If you use PT lumber rated for ground contact it would likely outlast you. Just put down some sill sealer between the concrete and timber before bolting the timber down. You could step up to a 4x8 or larger if you want more ground clearance. In any case the decision is made--cut the anchors and replace them. One is placed so that I can't get a wider opening. I'm glad you have a solution that works for you. Could you grind the bolt in the doorway below the surface of the slab then patch it for a wider door opening? Or just grind it smooth with the slab, it's just a shed afterall. Good luck with your project! Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com |
#16
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The shed wall
I thought the 4x6 pt was a quick easy fix.
Yes it would outlast the owner... john "HerHusband" wrote in message ... Waiting for a concrete truck to arrive is not in the cards. For a small job like that you could always mix your own on site, but there's nothing wrong with block if you want to go that route. Another option might be to add an overhang and/or gutter to the roof so water is directed away from the building. It's on a side already--water goes over the wall at a right angle. ??? I'm not sure I understand what you mean. Is there an overhang above the wall you are replacing? If so, how far does it extend from the building, 6", 12", etc.? One has and has been repaired, using the method that you suggest with flashing etc, but I don't really like that as a solution. Code says 8 inches, it's in code for a reason. It only needs to be 8" on the exterior. They put wood framing in basements afterall. Actually, the solution jloomis mentioned with a pressure treated timber would be a good option too. If you use PT lumber rated for ground contact it would likely outlast you. Just put down some sill sealer between the concrete and timber before bolting the timber down. You could step up to a 4x8 or larger if you want more ground clearance. In any case the decision is made--cut the anchors and replace them. One is placed so that I can't get a wider opening. I'm glad you have a solution that works for you. Could you grind the bolt in the doorway below the surface of the slab then patch it for a wider door opening? Or just grind it smooth with the slab, it's just a shed afterall. Good luck with your project! Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com |
#17
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The shed wall
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#19
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The shed wall
"J. Clarke" wrote:
Ok, please explain how to identify "quality concrete block" and where one obtains such in Hartford. -------------------------------------------- Try: "concrete blocks hartford" as a search string. Lew |
#20
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The shed wall
On 06/23/2015 02:53 PM, J. Clarke wrote:
Ok, please explain how to identify "quality concrete block" and where one obtains such in Hartford. From: http://www.waybuilder.net/free-ed/Courses/05%20Building%20and%20Contruction/050202%20Masonry/Masonry00.asp?iNum=02 "Blocks are considered heavyweight or lightweight, depending on the aggregate used in their production. A hollow load-bearing concrete block 8-by-8-by-16-inches nominal size weighs from 40 to 50 pounds when made with heavyweight aggregate, such as sand, gravel, crushed stone, or air-cooled slag. The same size block weighs only 25 to 35 pounds when made with coal cinders, expanded shale, clay, slag, volcanic cinders, or pumice. The choice of blocks depends on both the availability and requirements of the intended structure." -- "Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery" -Winston Churchill |
#21
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The shed wall
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#22
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The shed wall
If I'm mixing concrete I'd rather mix a little and put down blocks
than mix a lot and have to mandhandle wet concrete en masse. If you poured an area 6" deep and 8" tall, it would take about one 60 pound bag per foot. That's maybe 8-12 bags depending on the length of your wall. Mix one, pour it in, mix the other, pour, continue. Start at one end and work towards the other. As long as you don't take too long between bags you'll be fine (assuming standard concrete and not quick setting). I use one of those "party" ice buckets and a mixer on a strong electric drill to make quick work of mixing concrete and mortar. In any case, blocks will work fine too. Just be sure to use "mortar" and not concrete to set them in. Actually, the solution jloomis mentioned with a pressure treated timber would be a good option too. If you use PT lumber rated for ground contact it would likely outlast you. Just put down some sill sealer between the concrete and timber before bolting the timber down. You could step up to a 4x8 or larger if you want more ground clearance. Yeah, but the siding won't. And I don't trust a piece of tin flashing as the only wall. Leave the PT beam exposed and only bring your siding down to a point that is 8" above grade. You could add flashing to the exterior of the beam if you wish for added protection (and to keep water from working it's way under the beam). No worries though, sounds like you have a plan worked out. Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com |
#23
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The shed wall
On Tue, 23 Jun 2015 17:53:15 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote: In article , says... On Mon, 22 Jun 2015 22:33:00 -0400, "J. Clarke" wrote: In article , says... On Mon, 22 Jun 2015 18:56:39 -0400, "J. Clarke" wrote: In article , says... What, pouring concrete is less work than setting a half a dozen cinder blocks? I guess it depends on what you're more familiar with. It would be a simple matter to set up a couple of forms, pour in some concrete, and level it off. Especially for a job that small. I know blocks are common in many parts of the country, but I don't care for them and have no experience with them. For me concrete would be a lot easier to work with. With the cinder blocks you'll still need to mix up mortar, try to keep things straight and level, and maybe fill the block cores with mortar. Waiting for a concrete truck to arrive is not in the cards. I should have mentioned that it's slab-on-grade and the sill anchors in question are the ones that secured the rotted-out sill to the slab. The whole idea is to get the sills 8 inches above grade as is required by most building codes. Are you raising the door too? Unless you're leaving an opening in the block wall for a doorway, won't that complicate getting your mower and other items in and out of the shed? Leaving an opening. Is it possible to regrade the area around the shed to gain clearance without having to raise the shed wall? Nope. Not a chance. If I did that the slab would be suspended on air. Another option might be to add an overhang and/or gutter to the roof so water is directed away from the building. It's on a side already--water goes over the wall at a right angle. You could also put rock or concrete around the perimeter of the exterior to minimize splashback on the wall. I have concrete pavers in front of our shed with only 3-4" clearance between the siding and pavers. No ill effects in 20 years. Alternatively, you could simply add a strip along the bottom of the shed that is impervious to water. Metal flashing, PVC or composite lumber, etc. that would let you raise the bottom of the siding up as needed to keep the wood away from the ground. I used that approach on my in-laws garage since we weren't replacing the existing studs. Finally, what about the other walls of the shed? If they haven't rotted, what is different about them? More ground clearance, roof covering, etc.? One has and has been repaired, using the method that you suggest with flashing etc, but I don't really like that as a solution. Code says 8 inches, it's in code for a reason. In any case the decision is made--cut the anchors and replace them. One is placed so that I can't get a wider opening. Just make sure you use good concrete block, not the cheap lightweight cinder blocks. gasket the sill to the block with something like BluSeal to keep the sill from contacting the concrete. Use good S mortar to bed and lay the block course. (has both lime and portland in it) Geez, it's an effing shed, not Fort Knox. Cinder block is fine for the purpose. Until they soak up moisture, freeze, and disintigrate. For the difference in cost, use the right materials and do it once. Cinder block just does not stand up to moisture nearly as well as a quality concrete block. Ok, please explain how to identify "quality concrete block" and where one obtains such in Hartford. Don't know Hartford - but weight is a pretty good indication. Fly-ash and cinders are a lot lighter than sand, rock, and portland. |
#24
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The shed wall
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#25
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The shed wall
In article ,
says... If I'm mixing concrete I'd rather mix a little and put down blocks than mix a lot and have to mandhandle wet concrete en masse. If you poured an area 6" deep and 8" tall, it would take about one 60 pound bag per foot. That's maybe 8-12 bags depending on the length of your wall. Mix one, pour it in, mix the other, pour, continue. Start at one end and work towards the other. As long as you don't take too long between bags you'll be fine (assuming standard concrete and not quick setting). I use one of those "party" ice buckets and a mixer on a strong electric drill to make quick work of mixing concrete and mortar. In any case, blocks will work fine too. Just be sure to use "mortar" and not concrete to set them in. Actually, the solution jloomis mentioned with a pressure treated timber would be a good option too. If you use PT lumber rated for ground contact it would likely outlast you. Just put down some sill sealer between the concrete and timber before bolting the timber down. You could step up to a 4x8 or larger if you want more ground clearance. Yeah, but the siding won't. And I don't trust a piece of tin flashing as the only wall. Leave the PT beam exposed and only bring your siding down to a point that is 8" above grade. You could add flashing to the exterior of the beam if you wish for added protection (and to keep water from working it's way under the beam). No worries though, sounds like you have a plan worked out. Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com Well, got the crud and whatnot ground off of the concrete. Dewalt 18v 4-1/2 inch grinder and cup wheel from Home Despot do a fine job but make sure you've got lots of battery packs because it goes through them faster than they charge. So today I drilled the holes for the sill anchors and rebar (two sill anchors for each section of wall--one's 4 feet the other's 2 feet) with rebar in each void space of the blocks. Debated rending an SDS hammer for 60 bucks from Home Depot or buying one for 90 from Harbor Fright and went with Harbor Fright--I figured it would do for 9 holes I needed to dril and I'd have it later if I needed to drill a few more for some reason. Went with the 10-amp version, comes in a nice case, with a little tub of grease and a spare set of brushes. I'd never used a real SDS hammer before and I'm impressed--a while back I drilled three half- inch holes in that slab with a half-inch hammer drill and it took me over an hour to do it it. This time it was four 1/2 inch and five 5/8 inch and the HF drilled them about as fast as I can drill studs. Only complaint I have is that the depth bar doesn't lock very tight and I ended up going a little deeper on a couple of holes than I intended. Found out my blow nozzle had walked off so off to Home Despot for a blow nozzle (HD is enough closer than HF for the gas to make up the difference)--got the 7 piece kit 18249HOM which has a long tip perfect for blowing out the holes--got a half-inch pipe brush from the plumbing department to clean them out--word of advice, if you have both 1/2 and 5/8 holes, do all the 5/8 first--brand new the brush is a tight fit, but once it's been in a couple of half inch holes it loosens up a lot in the 5/8. Anyway, got the holes cleaned out, shot the Sika (more advice--keep pumping it through the nozzle until it turns light gray before you use it--they say "until it stops streaking" or some such but the dark gray doesn't show any streaks for a long time and set the rebar and sill anchors. The first piece of rebar went in with the dark gray, but by the time I figured out what I'd done it was set anyway, at least enough that that rebar wasn't coming out without more effort than I wanted to put into it. I'd never used a caulking-gun epoxy before. Having read that it took a lot of effort with the caulking gun and being somewhat arthritic but too cheap to spend for a powered gun, I did a bit of research and found that they make guns with up to 26:1 thrust ratio, so I ordered one of those (Newborn 375-XSP) off of Amazon http://www.amazon.com/Newborn-375-XSP- Revolving-Caulking-Cartridge/dp/B00CLVAA24/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid= 1435950692&sr=8-1&keywords=375-xsp and it worked a treat for the purpose. Sika squeezed out easy as you please with no effort at all. Gonna be interesting to see how that gun works for other stuff. I suspect it's going to prove to have been 35 bucks well spent. |
#26
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The shed wall
So today I drilled the holes for the sill anchors and rebar
I'd never used a real SDS hammer before and I'm impressed--a while back I drilled three half- inch holes in that slab with a half-inch hammer drill and it took me over an hour to do it it. Several years ago I had to drill some holes through a concrete basement wall to replace a broken water line. All I had at the time was a standard rotary drill. It took a couple hours and I burned up several masonry bits in the process. I got the job done but I really didn't know what I was doing. I later bought a Dewalt hammer drill and discovered it worked much better for drilling holes in concrete, but it was still very slow. OK if you just need a few small holes, but inadequate for big jobs. A couple years ago I needed to split several granite boulders so I invested in a SDS rotary hammmer. Wow, what a difference. Makes easy work of drilling large holes in concrete or stone. I wish I had bought one years ago. Found out my blow nozzle had walked off so off to Home Despot for a blow nozzle Wouldn't a shop vac work for cleaning out the holes? It's gotta be better than my first attempt... blowing into the hole and having all the dust come back in my face. Learning experience, something you only do once. I'd never used a caulking-gun epoxy before. Me either. The few times I've needed masonry epoxy I just bought the little squeeze tubes from the home centers. Nothing fancy, but it did the job for a few holes. too cheap to spend for a powered gun, I did a bit of research and found that they make guns with up to 26:1 thrust ratio I know they have air power caulking guns and cordless electric models, but I haven't used either type. I've always bought the best manual guns available at the home centers. Haven't run into anything yet I couldn't squeeze out with them. When we built our house I bought one of those large sized guns that we used to lay down all the construction adhesive for the subfloor panels. For big jobs that's a lot nicer than squeezing out a bunch of small tubes. set the rebar and sill anchors. Kind of late now, but for your small job I would think concrete masonry anchors (the kind that expand in the hole to lock in place) would work just as well as rebar. Could have saved the cost of the epoxy and fancy caulking gun, but at least you have a new tool now! Glad you're making progress with your shed. Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com |
#27
Posted to rec.woodworking
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The shed wall
In article ,
says... So today I drilled the holes for the sill anchors and rebar I'd never used a real SDS hammer before and I'm impressed--a while back I drilled three half- inch holes in that slab with a half-inch hammer drill and it took me over an hour to do it it. Several years ago I had to drill some holes through a concrete basement wall to replace a broken water line. All I had at the time was a standard rotary drill. It took a couple hours and I burned up several masonry bits in the process. I got the job done but I really didn't know what I was doing. I later bought a Dewalt hammer drill and discovered it worked much better for drilling holes in concrete, but it was still very slow. OK if you just need a few small holes, but inadequate for big jobs. A couple years ago I needed to split several granite boulders so I invested in a SDS rotary hammmer. Wow, what a difference. Makes easy work of drilling large holes in concrete or stone. I wish I had bought one years ago. Found out my blow nozzle had walked off so off to Home Despot for a blow nozzle Wouldn't a shop vac work for cleaning out the holes? It's gotta be better than my first attempt... blowing into the hole and having all the dust come back in my face. Learning experience, something you only do once. Yeah, I learned "don't lean over the hole". The Sika instructions say "blow, brush, blow, brush, blow". Figured if I was going to use the stuff I may as well do it right. I added an additional "brush, blow" to that and was still getting crud out. Besides, once you get used to having a compressor with a blow nozzle you miss it--I was going to have to replace the nozzle anyway. I'd never used a caulking-gun epoxy before. Me either. The few times I've needed masonry epoxy I just bought the little squeeze tubes from the home centers. Nothing fancy, but it did the job for a few holes. too cheap to spend for a powered gun, I did a bit of research and found that they make guns with up to 26:1 thrust ratio I know they have air power caulking guns and cordless electric models, but I haven't used either type. I've always bought the best manual guns available at the home centers. Haven't run into anything yet I couldn't squeeze out with them. When we built our house I bought one of those large sized guns that we used to lay down all the construction adhesive for the subfloor panels. For big jobs that's a lot nicer than squeezing out a bunch of small tubes. set the rebar and sill anchors. Kind of late now, but for your small job I would think concrete masonry anchors (the kind that expand in the hole to lock in place) would work just as well as rebar. Could have saved the cost of the epoxy and fancy caulking gun, but at least you have a new tool now! I thought about those. I've used them before. Trouble is the local suppliers (well, Fastenal did but I'd have had to take time off from work to get to Fastenal) didn't have any threaded ones long enough to go through the block and the sill with enough left to put a nut on. Once the decision was made to set threaded rod for sill anchors, adding a piece of rebar in each void space that didn't have an anchor didn't really add much effort, and I've got way more epoxy than I need for the job. Glad you're making progress with your shed. Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com |
#28
Posted to rec.woodworking
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The shed wall
On Saturday, July 4, 2015 at 1:52:46 AM UTC-4, HerHusband wrote:
So today I drilled the holes for the sill anchors and rebar I'd never used a real SDS hammer before and I'm impressed--a while back I drilled three half- inch holes in that slab with a half-inch hammer drill and it took me over an hour to do it it. Several years ago I had to drill some holes through a concrete basement wall to replace a broken water line. All I had at the time was a standard rotary drill. It took a couple hours and I burned up several masonry bits in the process. I got the job done but I really didn't know what I was doing. Many years ago a wise man told me "If you are working too hard, you are probably using the wrong tool." He then lend me his electric jack hammer. The drain I had to expose in my basement slab came quickly into view. |
#29
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The shed wall
On Sat, 4 Jul 2015 05:51:19 +0000 (UTC), HerHusband
wrote: So today I drilled the holes for the sill anchors and rebar I'd never used a real SDS hammer before and I'm impressed--a while back I drilled three half- inch holes in that slab with a half-inch hammer drill and it took me over an hour to do it it. Several years ago I had to drill some holes through a concrete basement wall to replace a broken water line. All I had at the time was a standard rotary drill. It took a couple hours and I burned up several masonry bits in the process. I got the job done but I really didn't know what I was doing. I later bought a Dewalt hammer drill and discovered it worked much better for drilling holes in concrete, but it was still very slow. OK if you just need a few small holes, but inadequate for big jobs. A couple years ago I needed to split several granite boulders so I invested in a SDS rotary hammmer. Wow, what a difference. Makes easy work of drilling large holes in concrete or stone. I wish I had bought one years ago. Found out my blow nozzle had walked off so off to Home Despot for a blow nozzle Wouldn't a shop vac work for cleaning out the holes? It's gotta be better than my first attempt... blowing into the hole and having all the dust come back in my face. Learning experience, something you only do once. I'd never used a caulking-gun epoxy before. Me either. The few times I've needed masonry epoxy I just bought the little squeeze tubes from the home centers. Nothing fancy, but it did the job for a few holes. too cheap to spend for a powered gun, I did a bit of research and found that they make guns with up to 26:1 thrust ratio I know they have air power caulking guns and cordless electric models, but I haven't used either type. I've always bought the best manual guns available at the home centers. Haven't run into anything yet I couldn't squeeze out with them. When we built our house I bought one of those large sized guns that we used to lay down all the construction adhesive for the subfloor panels. For big jobs that's a lot nicer than squeezing out a bunch of small tubes. set the rebar and sill anchors. Kind of late now, but for your small job I would think concrete masonry anchors (the kind that expand in the hole to lock in place) would work just as well as rebar. Could have saved the cost of the epoxy and fancy caulking gun, but at least you have a new tool now! Glad you're making progress with your shed. Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com Anything power assisted beats doing what I had to do as a young fellow - putting lag anchors into high strength concrete (about 40 years old) with a star chisel and a 3 lb hammer - - - - - - - |
#30
Posted to rec.woodworking
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The shed wall
I feel it - used a star drill to cut a 2.5' x 2.5' hole through
a 6" thick concrete slab that was cured. Worse it was under a shop table - limited work area. Bomb shelter - what else... It was in the 50's. Martin On 7/4/2015 12:09 PM, wrote: On Sat, 4 Jul 2015 05:51:19 +0000 (UTC), HerHusband wrote: So today I drilled the holes for the sill anchors and rebar I'd never used a real SDS hammer before and I'm impressed--a while back I drilled three half- inch holes in that slab with a half-inch hammer drill and it took me over an hour to do it it. Several years ago I had to drill some holes through a concrete basement wall to replace a broken water line. All I had at the time was a standard rotary drill. It took a couple hours and I burned up several masonry bits in the process. I got the job done but I really didn't know what I was doing. I later bought a Dewalt hammer drill and discovered it worked much better for drilling holes in concrete, but it was still very slow. OK if you just need a few small holes, but inadequate for big jobs. A couple years ago I needed to split several granite boulders so I invested in a SDS rotary hammmer. Wow, what a difference. Makes easy work of drilling large holes in concrete or stone. I wish I had bought one years ago. Found out my blow nozzle had walked off so off to Home Despot for a blow nozzle Wouldn't a shop vac work for cleaning out the holes? It's gotta be better than my first attempt... blowing into the hole and having all the dust come back in my face. Learning experience, something you only do once. I'd never used a caulking-gun epoxy before. Me either. The few times I've needed masonry epoxy I just bought the little squeeze tubes from the home centers. Nothing fancy, but it did the job for a few holes. too cheap to spend for a powered gun, I did a bit of research and found that they make guns with up to 26:1 thrust ratio I know they have air power caulking guns and cordless electric models, but I haven't used either type. I've always bought the best manual guns available at the home centers. Haven't run into anything yet I couldn't squeeze out with them. When we built our house I bought one of those large sized guns that we used to lay down all the construction adhesive for the subfloor panels. For big jobs that's a lot nicer than squeezing out a bunch of small tubes. set the rebar and sill anchors. Kind of late now, but for your small job I would think concrete masonry anchors (the kind that expand in the hole to lock in place) would work just as well as rebar. Could have saved the cost of the epoxy and fancy caulking gun, but at least you have a new tool now! Glad you're making progress with your shed. Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com Anything power assisted beats doing what I had to do as a young fellow - putting lag anchors into high strength concrete (about 40 years old) with a star chisel and a 3 lb hammer - - - - - - - |
#31
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You can use Simpson Epoxy to set the new steel pins also.Use of steel is more reliable option . You can get more details about the benefits of steel by click here.
Last edited by ClaudDKLyons : July 5th 15 at 03:14 AM |
#32
Posted to rec.woodworking
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The shed wall
Yeah, I learned "don't lean over the hole".
When drilling into rocks, I learned to wear safety glasses. When the drill starts hammering into the first half inch or so chips of rock and dust fly everywhere. Once the bit gets down in the hole a bit it's not so bad. Besides, once you get used to having a compressor with a blow nozzle you miss it--I was going to have to replace the nozzle anyway. I have one but rarely use it. To me they're just like a leaf blower. They blow stuff out of the way but it just ends up somewhere else. I prefer suction to vacuum up dust and debris. Keeps the dust out of my eyes and nose and keeps my workspace cleaner. I thought about those. I've used them before. Trouble is the local suppliers (well, Fastenal did but I'd have had to take time off from work to get to Fastenal) didn't have any threaded ones long enough to go through the block and the sill with enough left to put a nut on. You could have added couplers and threaded rod to get any length you want. But, you got the job done and have new tools. Now you'll just need more projects in the future so you can use them again. Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com |
#33
Posted to rec.woodworking
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The shed wall
Several years ago I had to drill some holes through a concrete
basement wall to replace a broken water line. All I had at the time was a standard rotary drill. It took a couple hours and I burned up several masonry bits in the process. I got the job done but I really didn't know what I was doing. Many years ago a wise man told me "If you are working too hard, you are probably using the wrong tool." Yep. We got the call at 8pm from my mother-in-law that a pipe had burst underground outside her house and was flooding her basement (she lives about an hour away). We had the city turn off the water and dug it up in the dark. I had to replace the old pipe that was running through the basement wall. I'm not sure why but the concrete was over a foot thick at that point. The only tool I had available at the time was a cheap rotary drill and some chisels and masonry bits I picked up on the way to the in- laws. I knew I was doing something wrong, but had never done anything like that before so I didn't have a clue. That job would sure have been a lot easier with my rotary hammer. Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com |
#34
Posted to rec.woodworking
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The shed wall
Anything power assisted beats doing what I had to do as a young
fellow - putting lag anchors into high strength concrete (about 40 years old) with a star chisel and a 3 lb hammer The local hardware store showed me one of those when I stopped to get more masonry bits. I'm like "yeah right, you've got to be kidding"... In hindsight, it probably wouldn't have been any worse than a spinning masonry bit. Without the hammer action it's practically worthless. Anthony Watson www.mountainsoftware.com www.watsondiy.com |
#36
Posted to rec.woodworking
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The shed wall
One way or another the blocks are down and filled. I started in on
the carpentry today, got one sill plate down, was fixing to do the other one when I realized that the #$%^&*ing MORON who built the thing had ended the wall on a void space in the crosswall. Two inches longer and it would have been on a stud, but NOOOOOOOO. And the slab is of course poured the same two inches short and the roof ends the same two inches short, so building it out would be a major operation. Long term I need to open the wall up and add a stud in the right place. Short term I can think of several ways to rig it. Assuming you have some kind of plywood or OSB sheathing in the cross wall, I really don't think you have a problem. Driving several deck screws long enough to penetrate the sheathing should be way more strength than you'll need. However, if it bothers you, you could drill holes and install several toggle bolts. Short of a hurricane or tornado, the new wall won't be going anywhere. Glad you're making progress. Anthony Watson www.watsondiy.com www.mountainsoftware.com |
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