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Default I hate plumbing repairs

I think I may have mentioned (on more than one occasion) how much I hate plumbing. This week I was faced with two challenges -- a nonfunctioning fill valve on a Kohler one-piece toilet and a slow drain in the shower.

I elected to tackle the toilet first. Armed with iPhone photos of the innards and the model number I went to the local Ace. They didn't have the Kohler part, but had an under $10 just-as-good-as generic. Took it home and, yes, it fit, but no it wouldn't stop running.

Called the plumbing supply shop and they had the right part, only it came as part of a $134 rebuild kit. Bit the bullet, due to ongoing heat from you know who. Toilet works great.

The last time I had shower drain problems I called the pros, who lightened my wallet for the better part of $200 for the privilege of 15 minutes with the electric snake. This time, I took out my $3 plastic probe -- the one with the sharp prongs running the length -- and in 10 minutes had full flow restored.

Anybody need a Kohler flapper assembly?

Larry
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"Gramps' shop" wrote:

I think I may have mentioned (on more than one occasion) how much I
hate plumbing. This week I was faced with two challenges -- a
nonfunctioning fill valve on a Kohler one-piece toilet and a slow
drain in the shower.

I elected to tackle the toilet first. Armed with iPhone photos of the
innards and the model number I went to the local Ace. They didn't
have the Kohler part, but had an under $10 just-as-good-as generic.
Took it home and, yes, it fit, but no it wouldn't stop running.

Called the plumbing supply shop and they had the right part, only it
came as part of a $134 rebuild kit. Bit the bullet, due to ongoing
heat from you know who. Toilet works great.

The last time I had shower drain problems I called the pros, who
lightened my wallet for the better part of $200 for the privilege of
15 minutes with the electric snake. This time, I took out my $3
plastic probe -- the one with the sharp prongs running the length --
and in 10 minutes had full flow restored.

Anybody need a Kohler flapper assembly?
-------------------------------------------------------------
Well at least you keep the money at home in Wisc.

Reminds me of the guy who called a plumber to unplug a drain.

Plumber spent about 10 minutes, cleared the drain and presented
his bill for $300.

The guy started screaming that he was a doctor and only charged
$75 for a 20 minute office visit.

"I know", said the plumber, "that's why I quit being a doctor."

Lew


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Gramps' shop wrote:
I think I may have mentioned (on more than one occasion) how much I hate plumbing. This week I was faced with two challenges -- a nonfunctioning fill valve on a Kohler one-piece toilet and a slow drain in the shower.

I elected to tackle the toilet first. Armed with iPhone photos of the innards and the model number I went to the local Ace. They didn't have the Kohler part, but had an under $10 just-as-good-as generic. Took it home and, yes, it fit, but no it wouldn't stop running.

Called the plumbing supply shop and they had the right part, only it came as part of a $134 rebuild kit. Bit the bullet, due to ongoing heat from you know who. Toilet works great.

The last time I had shower drain problems I called the pros, who lightened my wallet for the better part of $200 for the privilege of 15 minutes with the electric snake. This time, I took out my $3 plastic probe -- the one with the sharp prongs running the length -- and in 10 minutes had full flow restored.

Anybody need a Kohler flapper assembly?

Larry


Had the same problem. Took my old flapper to the local ACE and was
glad I did. They had about 6 different styles, some with shorter arms
to the hinge, some longer. I had previously discovered that if the
cone doesn't sit right in the hole it doesn't fit right.

--
 GW Ross 

 People who are late are often happier 
 than those who have to wait for them. 
 --Chinese Fortune 






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I'll take the flapper assembly and put it with the other various and
assorted plumbing parts I have carefully stored
for many years of repairing....
Last repair I did was to the Fleck Water conditioner....
Could have cost over 1000.00 but decided to do it almost by myself...
Took out the tank, exchanged the plungers, and in the process broke a 1"
inline plumbing manifold to the works...
Finally fixed that, and no go?
Called a plumbing friend, and was I ever glad...
Knew about the water conditioner, we drained it, put in a new set of clean
rock, restored the calcite,
and voila...It worked....
Total cost....200.00 plumbing assistance, and parts, 75.00
Almost ripped the entire unit out, to purchase a new one.....New units go
for at least 800.00 and more...
john

"Gramps' shop" wrote in message
...

I think I may have mentioned (on more than one occasion) how much I hate
plumbing. This week I was faced with two challenges -- a nonfunctioning
fill valve on a Kohler one-piece toilet and a slow drain in the shower.

I elected to tackle the toilet first. Armed with iPhone photos of the
innards and the model number I went to the local Ace. They didn't have the
Kohler part, but had an under $10 just-as-good-as generic. Took it home
and, yes, it fit, but no it wouldn't stop running.

Called the plumbing supply shop and they had the right part, only it came as
part of a $134 rebuild kit. Bit the bullet, due to ongoing heat from you
know who. Toilet works great.

The last time I had shower drain problems I called the pros, who lightened
my wallet for the better part of $200 for the privilege of 15 minutes with
the electric snake. This time, I took out my $3 plastic probe -- the one
with the sharp prongs running the length -- and in 10 minutes had full flow
restored.

Anybody need a Kohler flapper assembly?

Larry

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"G. Ross" wrote in
:

Had the same problem. Took my old flapper to the local ACE and was
glad I did. They had about 6 different styles, some with shorter arms
to the hinge, some longer. I had previously discovered that if the
cone doesn't sit right in the hole it doesn't fit right.


It's actually worse than that - not only do you need the right
length so the cone seals on the seat, but flappers come in "new"
and "old" versions that look identical. The "new" kind are for
1994 and newer toilets that flush with less water, if you put
one of those on an older toilet it won't flush fully.

John



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"jloomis" wrote in
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I'll take the flapper assembly and put it with the other various and
assorted plumbing parts I have carefully stored
for many years of repairing....


Probably not a good idea - flappers don't last, the rubber
gets stiff over time from exposure to air. Unless you're
going to need it in a year or so, better to throw it out.

Last repair I did was to the Fleck Water conditioner....
Could have cost over 1000.00 but decided to do it almost by myself...


An awful lot of stuff can be fixed if you're willing to
dissassemble it carefully, and spend some time searching
the internet for parts.

For example - microwave oven, the platter stopped turning.
Turns out there's a little motor lives under a trapdoor
on the bottom, cost $25 to fix (and about an hour to put
back together, because I took the whole bottom off before
realizing I just needed to remove the trapdoor).

Or the icemaker in the fridge - ice stopped coming out, an
inspection showed the door that closes the chute has a half
inch thick piece of styrofoam for insulation, which had come
off and blocked the chute. A little glue and good as new
(almost - I can feel just a hint of cold air, so it doesn't
quite seal like it should. But I can live with that).

John
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To help avoid the latter issue I will once / twice a year fill the
shower / sinks with drain cleaner and let it sit. Some times I will do
it on a three day weekend. Then run hot water when we get back. Helps
reduce hair and gunk build up in the traps.

Mike in Ohio

On 12/20/2014 9:58 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:
I think I may have mentioned (on more than one occasion) how much I hate plumbing. This week I was faced with two challenges -- a nonfunctioning fill valve on a Kohler one-piece toilet and a slow drain in the shower.

I elected to tackle the toilet first. Armed with iPhone photos of the innards and the model number I went to the local Ace. They didn't have the Kohler part, but had an under $10 just-as-good-as generic. Took it home and, yes, it fit, but no it wouldn't stop running.

Called the plumbing supply shop and they had the right part, only it came as part of a $134 rebuild kit. Bit the bullet, due to ongoing heat from you know who. Toilet works great.

The last time I had shower drain problems I called the pros, who lightened my wallet for the better part of $200 for the privilege of 15 minutes with the electric snake. This time, I took out my $3 plastic probe -- the one with the sharp prongs running the length -- and in 10 minutes had full flow restored.

Anybody need a Kohler flapper assembly?

Larry

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On 12/21/2014 10:19 AM, mungedaddress wrote:
To help avoid the latter issue I will once / twice a year fill the
shower / sinks with drain cleaner and let it sit. Some times I will do
it on a three day weekend. Then run hot water when we get back. Helps
reduce hair and gunk build up in the traps.

Mike in Ohio


My AC guy turned me on to using white vinegar. Cheap and safe and was
ultimately what unclogged a bathroom vanity drain after religiously
using, the safe for the environment, drain cleaners that seemed to make
the problem worse. Need a little more umph? Add baking soda.

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On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 18:58:19 -0800, Gramps' shop wrote:

I think I may have mentioned (on more than one occasion) how much I hate
plumbing. This week I was faced with two challenges -- a nonfunctioning
fill valve on a Kohler one-piece toilet and a slow drain in the shower.


I've got a continuing challenge. A shower that leaks water out from
underneath and even into the basement - but only when running. So far:

1. Doesn't leak when shut off so no problem in the piping below the
valve.

2. Valve showed evidence of a slight leak as corrosion on the brass so
it was replaced - still leaks.

3. Plumber took off the shower head and replaced it with a piece of pipe
- sealed on the end. Turned on the water, turned it off, and went away
for a day. Still had pressure in that pipe when he came back, so no leak
in or above the valve.

4. Shower head that had been removed showed a little thread damage so we
replaced it. Still leaks.

5. I put a seal over the drain and filled the shower basin with water up
to the 3-4" ledge. It took better than 24 hours to gradually leak under
the seal, which was just one of those flat rubber disks. So no leak in
the shower stall floor.

So what's left? I suppose there could be a leak where the drain screws
into the pipe, but considering the way that fitting works it's highly
unlikely. I'll check it to be sure.

The only other thing I can think of is to seal the floor and walls with
some of that rubberized finish like they make for tool handles. I can
peel it off after the test.

I've been ignoring it for a month or so hoping a solution will spring
into my mind but that doesn't seem to be happening :-).
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Larry Blanchard wrote:

On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 18:58:19 -0800, Gramps' shop wrote:

I think I may have mentioned (on more than one occasion) how much I
hate plumbing. This week I was faced with two challenges -- a
nonfunctioning fill valve on a Kohler one-piece toilet and a slow
drain in the shower.


I've got a continuing challenge. A shower that leaks water out from
underneath and even into the basement - but only when running. So
far:

1. Doesn't leak when shut off so no problem in the piping below the
valve.

2. Valve showed evidence of a slight leak as corrosion on the brass
so it was replaced - still leaks.

3. Plumber took off the shower head and replaced it with a piece of
pipe - sealed on the end. Turned on the water, turned it off, and
went away for a day. Still had pressure in that pipe when he came
back, so no leak in or above the valve.

4. Shower head that had been removed showed a little thread damage
so we replaced it. Still leaks.

5. I put a seal over the drain and filled the shower basin with
water up to the 3-4" ledge. It took better than 24 hours to
gradually leak under the seal, which was just one of those flat
rubber disks. So no leak in the shower stall floor.

So what's left? I suppose there could be a leak where the drain
screws into the pipe, but considering the way that fitting works it's
highly unlikely. I'll check it to be sure.

The only other thing I can think of is to seal the floor and walls
with some of that rubberized finish like they make for tool handles.
I can peel it off after the test.

I've been ignoring it for a month or so hoping a solution will spring
into my mind but that doesn't seem to be happening :-).


The problems obviously with the shower head and or its connection to
the pipe work

Does it leak when your using the shower, if thats the case it could be
water run off from whoever is using the shower, hairline crack or
movement when you load the shower up with a person.

try putting some pottasium permanganate in the pipework in water and
presuurise it up after disconnecting it from the mains, it should stain
up the leak


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Larry Blanchard wrote in
:

I've got a continuing challenge. A shower that leaks water out from
underneath and even into the basement - but only when running. So
far:

1. Doesn't leak when shut off so no problem in the piping below the
valve.

2. Valve showed evidence of a slight leak as corrosion on the brass
so it was replaced - still leaks.

3. Plumber took off the shower head and replaced it with a piece of
pipe - sealed on the end. Turned on the water, turned it off, and
went away for a day. Still had pressure in that pipe when he came
back, so no leak in or above the valve.

4. Shower head that had been removed showed a little thread damage so
we replaced it. Still leaks.

5. I put a seal over the drain and filled the shower basin with water
up to the 3-4" ledge. It took better than 24 hours to gradually leak
under the seal, which was just one of those flat rubber disks. So no
leak in the shower stall floor.

So what's left? I suppose there could be a leak where the drain screws
into the pipe, but considering the way that fitting works it's highly
unlikely. I'll check it to be sure.

The only other thing I can think of is to seal the floor and walls
with some of that rubberized finish like they make for tool handles.
I can peel it off after the test.

I've been ignoring it for a month or so hoping a solution will spring
into my mind but that doesn't seem to be happening :-).


If you let the shower run with no one in it, does it leak? I saw
something on one of those TV DIY shows where there was a small hole in
the tub floor that was sealed with no weight on it. When it got some
weight on it, the tub would flex and leak.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
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On 12/21/2014 2:10 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
I put a seal over the drain and filled the shower basin with water up
to the 3-4" ledge. It took better than 24 hours to gradually leak under
the seal, which was just one of those flat rubber disks. So no leak in
the shower stall floor.


I would recheck the drain. From your test you have no idea of what
leaked around the seal, and what leaked into the basement.

When you had the seal in place did it leak into the Basement?


A general comment about plugged drains, that had me climbing the wall.

When we moved into this house the one sinks in the master bath room did
not drain. The other sink in the same bath room drained well. Both
sinks were T'ed into the same main drain under the cabinet. I did all
of the standard things, plunger, taking off the trap, making sure there
was no hair on the lever that lifts the stopper. Nothing fixed the
problem.

Then someone on this group mentioned the air vent on the sink itself, or
as everyone things it is the overflow.

It did not take long to clean the blockage in the over-flow/air-vent and
the sink has worked perfectly since cleaning it out.

I know periodically check to see if it is blocked by running water into
the sink until it is running through the overflow.
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Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 18:58:19 -0800, Gramps' shop wrote:

I think I may have mentioned (on more than one occasion) how much I
hate plumbing. This week I was faced with two challenges -- a
nonfunctioning fill valve on a Kohler one-piece toilet and a slow
drain in the shower.


I've got a continuing challenge. A shower that leaks water out from
underneath and even into the basement - but only when running. So
far:


Leak in the drain system that is at or near the mid-point of the drain
piping? (the diameter of the piping). The water only reaches this level
under continued useage, so it would not be evident as a leak, under less
strenuous draining? Just a guess...

--

-Mike-



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In article , Larry Blanchard
wrote:

On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 18:58:19 -0800, Gramps' shop wrote:

I think I may have mentioned (on more than one occasion) how much I hate
plumbing. This week I was faced with two challenges -- a nonfunctioning
fill valve on a Kohler one-piece toilet and a slow drain in the shower.


I've got a continuing challenge. A shower that leaks water out from
underneath and even into the basement - but only when running. So far:

1. Doesn't leak when shut off so no problem in the piping below the
valve.

2. Valve showed evidence of a slight leak as corrosion on the brass so
it was replaced - still leaks.

3. Plumber took off the shower head and replaced it with a piece of pipe
- sealed on the end. Turned on the water, turned it off, and went away
for a day. Still had pressure in that pipe when he came back, so no leak
in or above the valve.

4. Shower head that had been removed showed a little thread damage so we
replaced it. Still leaks.

5. I put a seal over the drain and filled the shower basin with water up
to the 3-4" ledge. It took better than 24 hours to gradually leak under
the seal, which was just one of those flat rubber disks. So no leak in
the shower stall floor.

So what's left? I suppose there could be a leak where the drain screws
into the pipe, but considering the way that fitting works it's highly
unlikely. I'll check it to be sure.

The only other thing I can think of is to seal the floor and walls with
some of that rubberized finish like they make for tool handles. I can
peel it off after the test.

I've been ignoring it for a month or so hoping a solution will spring
into my mind but that doesn't seem to be happening :-).


Is it leaking from the drain itself? You've stopped water from getting
into the drain, but what if you took a bucket of water and poured it
into the pan with the shower off? Leakage?

It the drain has a gasket where it attaches to the opening in the pan,
that could be a suspect.

--
³Youth ages, immaturity is outgrown, ignorance can be educated, and drunkenness
sobered, but stupid lasts forever.² -- Aristophanes
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Keith Nuttle wrote:


Then someone on this group mentioned the air vent on the sink itself,
or as everyone things it is the overflow.

It did not take long to clean the blockage in the over-flow/air-vent
and the sink has worked perfectly since cleaning it out.

I know periodically check to see if it is blocked by running water
into the sink until it is running through the overflow.


I remember that thread - it caused quite a bit of dialog here as many people
tried to figure it out. It was a good catch by (who-ever) brought up that
idea of checking the overflow. Seems to me it may have been Edwin, but I'm
not sure...

--

-Mike-





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Keith Nuttle wrote in
:

On 12/21/2014 2:10 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
I put a seal over the drain and filled the shower basin with water
up
to the 3-4" ledge. It took better than 24 hours to gradually leak
under the seal, which was just one of those flat rubber disks. So no
leak in the shower stall floor.


I would recheck the drain. From your test you have no idea of what
leaked around the seal, and what leaked into the basement.


I would agree with this. Depending on how the drain is made,
there may be a very short tube going into a rubber sleeve
which fits over the drain pipe - those can fail to seal
sometimes. Otherwise, like Mike said, I'd suspect a cracked
pipe - note that PVC does not like to bend, and will eventually
crack if it's been forced to bend around a joist or something.

Then someone on this group mentioned the air vent on the sink itself,
or as everyone things it is the overflow.

It did not take long to clean the blockage in the over-flow/air-vent
and the sink has worked perfectly since cleaning it out.


For some reason ants love to build a nest in there, in my
house. They come in thru the window and set up housekeeping.
When the sink stops draining I know to get the ant spray
first, then clean it out.

John
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On 12/21/2014 1:10 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Sat, 20 Dec 2014 18:58:19 -0800, Gramps' shop wrote:

I think I may have mentioned (on more than one occasion) how much I hate
plumbing. This week I was faced with two challenges -- a nonfunctioning
fill valve on a Kohler one-piece toilet and a slow drain in the shower.


I've got a continuing challenge. A shower that leaks water out from
underneath and even into the basement - but only when running. So far:

1. Doesn't leak when shut off so no problem in the piping below the
valve.

2. Valve showed evidence of a slight leak as corrosion on the brass so
it was replaced - still leaks.

3. Plumber took off the shower head and replaced it with a piece of pipe
- sealed on the end. Turned on the water, turned it off, and went away
for a day. Still had pressure in that pipe when he came back, so no leak
in or above the valve.

4. Shower head that had been removed showed a little thread damage so we
replaced it. Still leaks.

5. I put a seal over the drain and filled the shower basin with water up
to the 3-4" ledge. It took better than 24 hours to gradually leak under
the seal, which was just one of those flat rubber disks. So no leak in
the shower stall floor.

So what's left? I suppose there could be a leak where the drain screws
into the pipe, but considering the way that fitting works it's highly
unlikely. I'll check it to be sure.

The only other thing I can think of is to seal the floor and walls with
some of that rubberized finish like they make for tool handles. I can
peel it off after the test.

I've been ignoring it for a month or so hoping a solution will spring
into my mind but that doesn't seem to be happening :-).

Eliminate the normal source of water.

Pour water in the drain directly form a large pot, see a leak down below?



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plumbing repairs always, and I mean always, take at least 2 trips to the
hardware....if you are lucky.

john

"Gramps' shop" wrote in message
...

I think I may have mentioned (on more than one occasion) how much I hate
plumbing. This week I was faced with two challenges -- a nonfunctioning
fill valve on a Kohler one-piece toilet and a slow drain in the shower.

I elected to tackle the toilet first. Armed with iPhone photos of the
innards and the model number I went to the local Ace. They didn't have the
Kohler part, but had an under $10 just-as-good-as generic. Took it home
and, yes, it fit, but no it wouldn't stop running.

Called the plumbing supply shop and they had the right part, only it came as
part of a $134 rebuild kit. Bit the bullet, due to ongoing heat from you
know who. Toilet works great.

The last time I had shower drain problems I called the pros, who lightened
my wallet for the better part of $200 for the privilege of 15 minutes with
the electric snake. This time, I took out my $3 plastic probe -- the one
with the sharp prongs running the length -- and in 10 minutes had full flow
restored.

Anybody need a Kohler flapper assembly?

Larry

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"jloomis" wrote:

plumbing repairs always, and I mean always, take at least 2 trips to
the hardware....if you are lucky.

john

----------------------------------------------------------
I had a job in a hardware store after school week days and
all day on Saturdays.

Saturday was moving day so you could expect to have at least
a couple of folks who would come in, panic on their face and plumbing
fittings in their hands.

These were typically the fittings that when properly connected
would get the gas company to come out and turn on the gas.

Hot showers can be a great motivator.

The smart ones had the starting fitting and the last fitting with
them.

Given those fittings, we could usually solve their problem and get
them
going without a return trip to the store.

That was 60 years ago and doubt the problem or the solution has
changed much.

Lew


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"jloomis" wrote in
:

plumbing repairs always, and I mean always, take at least 2 trips to
the hardware....if you are lucky.

john


The only repairs I haven't had take two trips to the store were the "new
guts in a box" toilet repair kits. They include almost everything for a
standard toilet, so if it's not in the box you'll probably need to
replace the toilet. That reminds me... One of the toilet bolts worked
its way loose from the flange... I gotta get a new wax ring and remount
the toilet.

Three trips seems to be about average, and I've started to overbuy on the
first trip. Need a PVC coupling? Pick up 3-4. Some times it works, but
usually it guarantees that (a) Murphy's Law will kick in, and the part
that needs fixed is something else and (b) I'll have to make another trip
to the store, if for nothing else but to return the extras.

One fellow suggested buying caps for the pipes you'll be working on
before you start. That way, if you have to stop working for some reason
you can cap the pipe off and get the water back on. Shutoff valves
aren't always 100%.

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.


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On 21 Dec 2014 20:12:05 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:

Larry Blanchard wrote in
:

I've got a continuing challenge. A shower that leaks water out from
underneath and even into the basement - but only when running. So
far:

1. Doesn't leak when shut off so no problem in the piping below the
valve.

2. Valve showed evidence of a slight leak as corrosion on the brass
so it was replaced - still leaks.

3. Plumber took off the shower head and replaced it with a piece of
pipe - sealed on the end. Turned on the water, turned it off, and
went away for a day. Still had pressure in that pipe when he came
back, so no leak in or above the valve.

4. Shower head that had been removed showed a little thread damage so
we replaced it. Still leaks.

5. I put a seal over the drain and filled the shower basin with water
up to the 3-4" ledge. It took better than 24 hours to gradually leak
under the seal, which was just one of those flat rubber disks. So no
leak in the shower stall floor.

So what's left? I suppose there could be a leak where the drain screws
into the pipe, but considering the way that fitting works it's highly
unlikely. I'll check it to be sure.

The only other thing I can think of is to seal the floor and walls
with some of that rubberized finish like they make for tool handles.
I can peel it off after the test.

I've been ignoring it for a month or so hoping a solution will spring
into my mind but that doesn't seem to be happening :-).


If you let the shower run with no one in it, does it leak? I saw
something on one of those TV DIY shows where there was a small hole in
the tub floor that was sealed with no weight on it. When it got some
weight on it, the tub would flex and leak.


I had that problem with the drain, in a previous house. It took some
time to figure out what was leaking. I finally had to rip out the
ceiling below and put some paper around (to record the water) to find
it. Then it was confusing because I could tell there was water but
never saw it. One day I decided to get up in there when the wife was
showering. Yep, the drain was leaking. The problem was then fairly
easily solved.
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"jloomis" wrote in message ...

plumbing repairs always, and I mean always, take at least 2 trips to the
hardware....if you are lucky.


Just two?!

Dave in SoTex
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On Sun, 21 Dec 2014 20:12:05 +0000, Puckdropper wrote:

If you let the shower run with no one in it, does it leak? I saw
something on one of those TV DIY shows where there was a small hole in
the tub floor that was sealed with no weight on it. When it got some
weight on it, the tub would flex and leak.


Yes. I forgot to mention that.
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On Sun, 21 Dec 2014 15:29:47 -0500, Keith Nuttle wrote:

I would recheck the drain. From your test you have no idea of what
leaked around the seal, and what leaked into the basement.


The drain or the stall itself is about all that's left. Further
exploration is on my to-do list.


When you had the seal in place did it leak into the Basement?


No, but remember it was leaking under the seal/stopper and going into the
drain at about one quart an hour. Might even have evaporated on the way
down :-).
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On Sun, 21 Dec 2014 15:33:01 -0500, Mike Marlow wrote:


Leak in the drain system that is at or near the mid-point of the drain
piping? (the diameter of the piping). The water only reaches this
level under continued useage, so it would not be evident as a leak,
under less strenuous draining? Just a guess...


That's a good idea. Don't know if I can see that without a little
dismantling.

Even before it shows up in the basement, I get leakage out from under the
shower stall so it'd have to be pretty high up.


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On Sun, 21 Dec 2014 14:50:25 -0600, Dave Balderstone wrote:

Is it leaking from the drain itself? You've stopped water from getting
into the drain, but what if you took a bucket of water and poured it
into the pan with the shower off? Leakage?


That was on the list as the very next test.
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On Sun, 21 Dec 2014 12:46:54 -0600, Leon wrote:

My AC guy turned me on to using white vinegar. Cheap and safe and was
ultimately what unclogged a bathroom vanity drain after religiously
using,
the safe for the environment, drain cleaners that seemed to make the
problem worse. Need a little more umph? Add baking soda.


I can attest to the vinegar. Cleared out a bathroom sink my wife had
clogged with hair. Using a drain cleaner didn't do it.

BTW, I've read that combining baking soda (alkaline) with the vinegar
(acid) adds a little turbulence but also neutralizes the acid in the
vinegar. But others swear it works.
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On 12/22/2014 1:06 PM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Sun, 21 Dec 2014 12:46:54 -0600, Leon wrote:

My AC guy turned me on to using white vinegar. Cheap and safe and was
ultimately what unclogged a bathroom vanity drain after religiously
using,
the safe for the environment, drain cleaners that seemed to make the
problem worse. Need a little more umph? Add baking soda.


I can attest to the vinegar. Cleared out a bathroom sink my wife had
clogged with hair. Using a drain cleaner didn't do it.

BTW, I've read that combining baking soda (alkaline) with the vinegar
(acid) adds a little turbulence but also neutralizes the acid in the
vinegar. But others swear it works.



That is what I used, baking soda. I pour in vinegar, pour in baking
soda, pour in more baking soda and shut the drain. Next morning I
flushed hot water. Opened it right up doing this two nights in a row.

What the heck are they putting in tooth paste these days. That is all
that has gone down a 2 year old drain. Nothing helped until I used
vinegar and baking soda.

This combination worked in about 1 hour on a disposal with sweet potato
skins too. That took two applications also.
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On Sun, 21 Dec 2014 19:10:21 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard
wrote:

I've got a continuing challenge. A shower that leaks water out from
underneath and even into the basement - but only when running. So far:


How well caulked is the shower valve, is there a gasket for it. Be
sure to leave the lower 30 degrees for drainage. Those would be my
first checks.

Mark


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On 12/22/2014 11:47 PM, Leon wrote:
On 12/22/2014 11:37 AM, Baxter wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:lP2dnY3h-
:

On 12/21/2014 10:19 AM, mungedaddress wrote:
To help avoid the latter issue I will once / twice a year fill the
shower / sinks with drain cleaner and let it sit. Some times I will do
it on a three day weekend. Then run hot water when we get back. Helps
reduce hair and gunk build up in the traps.

Mike in Ohio

My AC guy turned me on to using white vinegar. Cheap and safe and was
ultimately what unclogged a bathroom vanity drain after religiously
using, the safe for the environment, drain cleaners that seemed to make
the problem worse. Need a little more umph? Add baking soda.

After getting the drains cleared, I've used BioKleen to good effect -
keeps
them from re-cloging

I tried the "Bio" cleaners too and actually thought they were working. I
used them before I had a problem, brand new home. But then one day the
drain got slow and slower and slower over the course of about 18 months,
and I was still using the Bio cleaner monthly.

The vinegar and baking soda opened it up like new after two over night
applications. I now just pour vinegar in the drain and let sit over
night each month.


I have found that a cup of TIDE laundry soap in the drain works as well
as anything. Add the soap and let it set as long as possible, then
flush it out.

Laundry soaps are designed to dissolve oils and proteins from human
skin. Usually that is what clogs a drain. Especially the big ones.



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Keith Nuttle wrote:
On 12/22/2014 11:47 PM, Leon wrote:
On 12/22/2014 11:37 AM, Baxter wrote:
Leon lcb11211@swbelldotnet wrote in news:lP2dnY3h-
:

On 12/21/2014 10:19 AM, mungedaddress wrote:
To help avoid the latter issue I will once / twice a year fill the
shower / sinks with drain cleaner and let it sit. Some times I will do
it on a three day weekend. Then run hot water when we get back. Helps
reduce hair and gunk build up in the traps.

Mike in Ohio

My AC guy turned me on to using white vinegar. Cheap and safe and was
ultimately what unclogged a bathroom vanity drain after religiously
using, the safe for the environment, drain cleaners that seemed to make
the problem worse. Need a little more umph? Add baking soda.

After getting the drains cleared, I've used BioKleen to good effect -
keeps
them from re-cloging

I tried the "Bio" cleaners too and actually thought they were working. I
used them before I had a problem, brand new home. But then one day the
drain got slow and slower and slower over the course of about 18 months,
and I was still using the Bio cleaner monthly.

The vinegar and baking soda opened it up like new after two over night
applications. I now just pour vinegar in the drain and let sit over
night each month.


I have found that a cup of TIDE laundry soap in the drain works as well
as anything. Add the soap and let it set as long as possible, then flush it out.

Laundry soaps are designed to dissolve oils and proteins from human
skin. Usually that is what clogs a drain. Especially the big ones.


Vinegar will do the same plus it will kill algie, a common drain stopper
upper from the the AC condensation drain line that ties into a sink. Add
baking soda and you get a foaming action.
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