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Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:

To be fair, the last time I asked HF Drill, the same one Lew bought,
to help me mix paint for two days it did not disappoint. But a
"driver" it is not.

Why do you say that Bill?


Because it left me disappointed from time to time (see if it will
drive a #10 screw). But it's probably a good bang for the buck.
Lew has surely used more drills than I have. Maybe he will do a
review. I haven't used enough drills to do a good review.


Huh. I have to say that is a surprise Bill. I've not used the drill so I
can't say how it drives any screws, but from what I've heard from other
users, it seemed quite capable. Seems odd to me...

--

-Mike-



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Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:

To be fair, the last time I asked HF Drill, the same one Lew bought,
to help me mix paint for two days it did not disappoint. But a
"driver" it is not.
Why do you say that Bill?

Because it left me disappointed from time to time (see if it will
drive a #10 screw). But it's probably a good bang for the buck.
Lew has surely used more drills than I have. Maybe he will do a
review. I haven't used enough drills to do a good review.

Huh. I have to say that is a surprise Bill. I've not used the drill so I
can't say how it drives any screws, but from what I've heard from other
users, it seemed quite capable.

Not in the same league as my Bosch. You have already seen it's
recharging mechanism discussed, rather at length.
I didn't say it was incapable of drilling a hole. I guess for $16.99
it's a joy to behold. ; )


Seems odd to me...


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Bill wrote:

Not in the same league as my Bosch. You have already seen it's
recharging mechanism discussed, rather at length.
I didn't say it was incapable of drilling a hole. I guess for $16.99
it's a joy to behold. ; )


No - but didn't you say it would not drive a #10 screw? That did seem odd
to me. Can you elaborate?

--

-Mike-



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Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:

Not in the same league as my Bosch. You have already seen it's
recharging mechanism discussed, rather at length.
I didn't say it was incapable of drilling a hole. I guess for $16.99
it's a joy to behold. ; )

No - but didn't you say it would not drive a #10 screw? That did seem odd
to me. Can you elaborate?

As far as I'm concerned, my Bosch hammer drill is the stuff when it
comes to driving screws.
I bought it to "put me out of my pain" of owning only the HF drill. And
yes, I have the matching
Bosch (ordinary) drill too. Just ask Lew to try to drive an inch long
#10 screw, pre-drilled of course, and report
back to us how it goes.






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Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:

Not in the same league as my Bosch. You have already seen it's
recharging mechanism discussed, rather at length.
I didn't say it was incapable of drilling a hole. I guess for
$16.99 it's a joy to behold. ; )

No - but didn't you say it would not drive a #10 screw? That did
seem odd to me. Can you elaborate?

As far as I'm concerned, my Bosch hammer drill is the stuff when it
comes to driving screws.
I bought it to "put me out of my pain" of owning only the HF drill.
And yes, I have the matching
Bosch (ordinary) drill too. Just ask Lew to try to drive an inch long
#10 screw, pre-drilled of course, and report
back to us how it goes.


Bill - I will assure you he can. And more. Even non-pre drilled.

--

-Mike-





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Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:

Not in the same league as my Bosch. You have already seen it's
recharging mechanism discussed, rather at length.
I didn't say it was incapable of drilling a hole. I guess for
$16.99 it's a joy to behold. ; )
No - but didn't you say it would not drive a #10 screw? That did
seem odd to me. Can you elaborate?

As far as I'm concerned, my Bosch hammer drill is the stuff when it
comes to driving screws.
I bought it to "put me out of my pain" of owning only the HF drill.
And yes, I have the matching
Bosch (ordinary) drill too. Just ask Lew to try to drive an inch long
#10 screw, pre-drilled of course, and report
back to us how it goes.

Bill - I will assure you he can. And more. Even non-pre drilled.

No, I won't trade you. ; )

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On Tue, 21 Oct 2014 18:40:01 -0400, Bill
wrote:

Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:

Not in the same league as my Bosch. You have already seen it's
recharging mechanism discussed, rather at length.
I didn't say it was incapable of drilling a hole. I guess for
$16.99 it's a joy to behold. ; )
No - but didn't you say it would not drive a #10 screw? That did
seem odd to me. Can you elaborate?
As far as I'm concerned, my Bosch hammer drill is the stuff when it
comes to driving screws.
I bought it to "put me out of my pain" of owning only the HF drill.
And yes, I have the matching
Bosch (ordinary) drill too. Just ask Lew to try to drive an inch long
#10 screw, pre-drilled of course, and report
back to us how it goes.

Bill - I will assure you he can. And more. Even non-pre drilled.

No, I won't trade you. ; )


I don't blame you. I have a set of the 12V (drill, impact driver, and
driver) and two each of the 18V drill and impact driver. I wouldn't
trade them for all the cordless tools HF makes. BTW, I also have a
couple of the HF drivers that have been sitting on the shelf from the
day I got them. Junk.
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Wow... has it gotten really slow around here or what?

Robert
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On 10/21/2014 5:22 PM, Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:

Not in the same league as my Bosch. You have already seen it's
recharging mechanism discussed, rather at length.
I didn't say it was incapable of drilling a hole. I guess for $16.99
it's a joy to behold. ; )

No - but didn't you say it would not drive a #10 screw? That did
seem odd
to me. Can you elaborate?

As far as I'm concerned, my Bosch hammer drill is the stuff when it
comes to driving screws.
I bought it to "put me out of my pain" of owning only the HF drill. And
yes, I have the matching
Bosch (ordinary) drill too. Just ask Lew to try to drive an inch long
#10 screw, pre-drilled of course, and report
back to us how it goes.


Don't doubt what a driver drill can do. I have both a Makita 12 volt
impact and a 18 volt Bosch impact. I used the Makita almost exclusively
over my Makita drill/driver for driving screws. I did not like the
Bosch by comparison.

Almost 3 years ago I got a 15 volt Festool drill driver and have hardly
touched the impact drivers since.

The Festool proved it self when I was removing 4' 3/8" lag screws and
driving 3" deck screws when building shelves for my storage shed. I
could drive the screws as slowly or as quickly as I wanted. I could
stop the driving 3/4 the way in, stop, and resume with little effort and
with out giving full pull on the trigger.

I am still not sure if I have stalled the drill or not. I was really
considering getting the Festool impact when it was just a rumor of being
introduced when I purchased the drill/driver. I'm glad the impact was
not available when I bought the driver. I simply have not had the need
for an impact since getting the T15-3 Festool.

Now having said all of that. ;~) I'm with you as to whether the Harbor
Freight model could keep up.






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Leon wrote:
On 10/21/2014 5:22 PM, Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:

Not in the same league as my Bosch. You have already seen it's
recharging mechanism discussed, rather at length.
I didn't say it was incapable of drilling a hole. I guess for $16.99
it's a joy to behold. ; )
No - but didn't you say it would not drive a #10 screw? That did
seem odd
to me. Can you elaborate?

As far as I'm concerned, my Bosch hammer drill is the stuff when it
comes to driving screws.

Of course, I meant to say "impact" drill, not hammer
drill. But I suspect I didn't confuse anyone.



I bought it to "put me out of my pain" of owning only the HF drill. And
yes, I have the matching
Bosch (ordinary) drill too. Just ask Lew to try to drive an inch long
#10 screw, pre-drilled of course, and report
back to us how it goes.


Don't doubt what a driver drill can do. I have both a Makita 12 volt
impact and a 18 volt Bosch impact. I used the Makita almost
exclusively over my Makita drill/driver for driving screws. I did not
like the Bosch by comparison.

Almost 3 years ago I got a 15 volt Festool drill driver and have
hardly touched the impact drivers since.

The Festool proved it self when I was removing 4' 3/8" lag screws and
driving 3" deck screws when building shelves for my storage shed. I
could drive the screws as slowly or as quickly as I wanted. I could
stop the driving 3/4 the way in, stop, and resume with little effort
and with out giving full pull on the trigger.

I am still not sure if I have stalled the drill or not. I was really
considering getting the Festool impact when it was just a rumor of
being introduced when I purchased the drill/driver. I'm glad the
impact was not available when I bought the driver. I simply have not
had the need for an impact since getting the T15-3 Festool.

Now having said all of that. ;~) I'm with you as to whether the
Harbor Freight model could keep up.





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On Tue, 21 Oct 2014 20:45:57 -0400, Bill
wrote:

wrote:
On Tue, 21 Oct 2014 18:40:01 -0400, Bill
wrote:

Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:
Mike Marlow wrote:
Bill wrote:

Not in the same league as my Bosch. You have already seen it's
recharging mechanism discussed, rather at length.
I didn't say it was incapable of drilling a hole. I guess for
$16.99 it's a joy to behold. ; )
No - but didn't you say it would not drive a #10 screw? That did
seem odd to me. Can you elaborate?
As far as I'm concerned, my Bosch hammer drill is the stuff when it
comes to driving screws.
I bought it to "put me out of my pain" of owning only the HF drill.
And yes, I have the matching
Bosch (ordinary) drill too. Just ask Lew to try to drive an inch long
#10 screw, pre-drilled of course, and report
back to us how it goes.
Bill - I will assure you he can. And more. Even non-pre drilled.

No, I won't trade you. ; )

I don't blame you. I have a set of the 12V (drill, impact driver, and
driver) and two each of the 18V drill and impact driver. I wouldn't
trade them for all the cordless tools HF makes. BTW, I also have a
couple of the HF drivers that have been sitting on the shelf from the
day I got them. Junk.



So how do you explain Mike's confusion about this? I don't think he is
lying. I won't argue the point
that the HF drill is a good value for $16.99. krw, why do YOU say they
are Junk?


My experience and his are different. What's unbelievable about that?
I weight performance more than price.

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"Ed Pawlowski" wrote

Primecell does not make the batteries and probably most of the rebuilders
use the same brand of cells. I have to wonder if that would have happened
with any other one.


I would argue greatly with that point.
Now days, there are many China batteries tat are only slightly better than a
pile of dog crap, for taking a charge and releasing it. Low amp hours and
short life. Some are OK, but there are some out there that are very bad.
DAMHIKT.

You get what you pay for, usually.
--
Jim in NC


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wrote

40 years ago when I saved up to buy a real Milwaukee "hole shooter" it was
a big drill. $90 for a corded drill 40 years ago! Used on the job nearly
daily for a decade and off and on since then, it still runs. I have worn
out more circular saws than I can count from my days as a production
house/commercial framer, and then as a contractor. Milwaukees were the
top of the heap then. My oldest Milwaukee is around 30 years old, and I
finally got tired of rebuilding it with switch, bearings and cord when it
came up to $125 or so to do it. But... it still works.


Funny, I have the same story. My 30 year old and newer 25 year old
Milwaukee circulars are still running strong. Nothing but cords and
switches replaced. I finally greased the gear boxes a couple years ago
because I felt guilty...

--
Jim in NC


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On 10/12/2014 8:55 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
Having been visited by members of the sticky finger club,
I have been without tools for some time.

Made the decision to get at least a battery powered drill.

Last time around it was an 18 VDC DeWalt complete
with a couple of batteries and a panel saw as a kit
that cost $400-$600.

This time, something for an occasional hole drilling
or screw driving will get the job done.

Time to look at Harbor Freight.

Found a 3/8, 900 RPM 18 VDC drill with a charger
and one battery for $16.99.

Probably has plastic gears, has only a 90 day guarantee
from Harbor Freight, and a charging system that just plain
sucks.

It requires 3-5 hours to charge.

It has a red and a green pilot light.

The green light indicates it is connected to shore power.

The red light indicates the battery is being charged.

There is no indication when the battery is recharged.

Plug it in and wait 3-5 hours, that's it.

Assuming that the drill will perform, a work around
exists for a charging system.

Buy a 2nd drill.

You now have two (2) batteries (NiCad), a back up charger,
and a 2nd drill which is always handy.

Best of all, you have less than $40 invested.

Not a bad deal, if it works.

Time will tell.

Lew


Or this looks like an unbeatable deal, lifetime warranty, Impact,
drill/driver combo, 12 volt 4.0 amp Li-Ion Ridgid $99.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-12...00SB/205374283






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On 10/22/2014 10:32 PM, Morgans wrote:


"Ed Pawlowski" wrote

Primecell does not make the batteries and probably most of the
rebuilders use the same brand of cells. I have to wonder if that
would have happened with any other one.


I would argue greatly with that point.
Now days, there are many China batteries tat are only slightly better
than a pile of dog crap, for taking a charge and releasing it. Low amp
hours and short life. Some are OK, but there are some out there that
are very bad. DAMHIKT.

You get what you pay for, usually.


Reputable rebuilders that want to be around for a few years will use
good material They leave the junk for the shoddy shops after a quick buck.
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On 10/20/14, 1:57 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
"Lew Hodgett" wrote in news:5444bd2c$0$44749
:

The major drawbacks to the Harbor Freight cordless drill is the
recharge time (3-5 hours) and there is no indication that the
battery is finished recharging.

Below is an automatic shut off circuit using standard shelf
componets.

Enjoy.

Lew
------------------------------------------------------------------
Hardwa

1, 6 circuit switched power outlet strip.
1, Manual 24 hour timer with two switched outlets.
2, LED night lights.

Directions:

Program the timer to be "ON" for 5 hours and
"OFF" for 19 hours.

I used "ON" at 00:00 (midnight) and "OFF" at 5:00 AM.

Plug timer into power outlet strip.

Plug an LED night light into power outlet strip.

Plug an LED night light into 24 hour timer outlet.

Plug the 24 VDC "WallWart" from the Harbor Freight
recharger module into a 24 hour timer outlet.

Plug 24 VDC plug from the "WallWart" into the
Harbor Freight recharger module and insert battery
to be recharged.

Plug power outlet strip into a source of power.

Rotate timer cam until it just touches the "ON" cam.

Turn the power outlet strip "ON".

snip
When I was playing around with one of those cheap power monitor meters I
decided to check out my drill chargers (Milwaukee NiMH & Lion). Turns
out they suck about 4 watts each without batteries being charged. I took
an old-school timer switch and set it so it activates for 1 hour per
day. This keeps the batteries charged and saves me the 184 Watts (8W *
23 hours) a day. The timer didn't register on the power meter so I
assume it's maybe a Watt to power.
Total savings? Close to $0.10/year!

-BR



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Brewster wrote in news:m2gd6q$v47$1
@adenine.netfront.net:

snip
When I was playing around with one of those cheap power monitor meters

I
decided to check out my drill chargers (Milwaukee NiMH & Lion). Turns
out they suck about 4 watts each without batteries being charged. I

took
an old-school timer switch and set it so it activates for 1 hour per
day. This keeps the batteries charged and saves me the 184 Watts (8W *
23 hours) a day. The timer didn't register on the power meter so I
assume it's maybe a Watt to power.
Total savings? Close to $0.10/year!

-BR


So that $10 timer pays for itself in... 100 years?

I know, though. A little flour, a little butter, a little milk and
pretty soon you're talking real dough!

Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
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On 10/25/2014 7:47 AM, Brewster wrote:

snip
When I was playing around with one of those cheap power monitor meters I
decided to check out my drill chargers (Milwaukee NiMH & Lion). Turns
out they suck about 4 watts each without batteries being charged. I took
an old-school timer switch and set it so it activates for 1 hour per
day. This keeps the batteries charged and saves me the 184 Watts (8W *
23 hours) a day. The timer didn't register on the power meter so I
assume it's maybe a Watt to power.
Total savings? Close to $0.10/year!

-BR


The pay back time is not that bad. If you are saving 184 watt hours
per day, then you are saving 67.16 kilowatt hours per year. If you
pay $0.12 per kilowatt hour then your savings is $8.06 per year. If
you pay $0.35 per kilowatt hour then your savings is $23.51 per year.
(I chose those rates since those are the numbers on the sliding scale
on my electric bill.)


Dan

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On 10/25/14, 10:45 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
Brewster wrote in news:m2gd6q$v47$1
@adenine.netfront.net:

snip
When I was playing around with one of those cheap power monitor meters

I
decided to check out my drill chargers (Milwaukee NiMH & Lion). Turns
out they suck about 4 watts each without batteries being charged. I

took
an old-school timer switch and set it so it activates for 1 hour per
day. This keeps the batteries charged and saves me the 184 Watts (8W *
23 hours) a day. The timer didn't register on the power meter so I
assume it's maybe a Watt to power.
Total savings? Close to $0.10/year!

-BR


So that $10 timer pays for itself in... 100 years?


Nope, from the junk box so it's FREE baby!


I know, though. A little flour, a little butter, a little milk and
pretty soon you're talking real dough!

Puckdropper



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On 10/25/14, 1:15 PM, Dan Coby wrote:
On 10/25/2014 7:47 AM, Brewster wrote:

snip
When I was playing around with one of those cheap power monitor meters I
decided to check out my drill chargers (Milwaukee NiMH & Lion). Turns
out they suck about 4 watts each without batteries being charged. I took
an old-school timer switch and set it so it activates for 1 hour per
day. This keeps the batteries charged and saves me the 184 Watts (8W *
23 hours) a day. The timer didn't register on the power meter so I
assume it's maybe a Watt to power.
Total savings? Close to $0.10/year!

-BR


The pay back time is not that bad. If you are saving 184 watt hours


Not Watt hours, these are Watt/days.

Point being, having things on a timer can save some cash. My electric
water heater is on a timer, basically it is set to run for an hour in
the early morning, cost savings shows maybe 15% over the pre-timer days
(water heating is metered separately so it's easy to verify).
As pointed out however, sometimes the cost of equipment can far exceed
the savings 8^)


per day, then you are saving 67.16 kilowatt hours per year. If you
pay $0.12 per kilowatt hour then your savings is $8.06 per year. If
you pay $0.35 per kilowatt hour then your savings is $23.51 per year. (I
chose those rates since those are the numbers on the sliding scale
on my electric bill.)


Dan



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On Sun, 26 Oct 2014 09:07:56 -0600, Brewster wrote:

On 10/25/14, 1:15 PM, Dan Coby wrote:
On 10/25/2014 7:47 AM, Brewster wrote:

snip
When I was playing around with one of those cheap power monitor meters I
decided to check out my drill chargers (Milwaukee NiMH & Lion). Turns
out they suck about 4 watts each without batteries being charged. I took
an old-school timer switch and set it so it activates for 1 hour per
day. This keeps the batteries charged and saves me the 184 Watts (8W *
23 hours) a day. The timer didn't register on the power meter so I
assume it's maybe a Watt to power.
Total savings? Close to $0.10/year!

-BR


The pay back time is not that bad. If you are saving 184 watt hours


Not Watt hours, these are Watt/days.


Power is billed by the watt-hour. The conversion is pretty simple.
;-)

Point being, having things on a timer can save some cash. My electric
water heater is on a timer, basically it is set to run for an hour in
the early morning, cost savings shows maybe 15% over the pre-timer days
(water heating is metered separately so it's easy to verify).
As pointed out however, sometimes the cost of equipment can far exceed
the savings 8^)


Saving on the big stuff is one thing. The trivia, not so much.

per day, then you are saving 67.16 kilowatt hours per year. If you
pay $0.12 per kilowatt hour then your savings is $8.06 per year. If
you pay $0.35 per kilowatt hour then your savings is $23.51 per year. (I
chose those rates since those are the numbers on the sliding scale
on my electric bill.)


Dan



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On 10/26/2014 8:07 AM, Brewster wrote:
On 10/25/14, 1:15 PM, Dan Coby wrote:
On 10/25/2014 7:47 AM, Brewster wrote:

snip
When I was playing around with one of those cheap power monitor meters I
decided to check out my drill chargers (Milwaukee NiMH & Lion). Turns
out they suck about 4 watts each without batteries being charged. I took
an old-school timer switch and set it so it activates for 1 hour per
day. This keeps the batteries charged and saves me the 184 Watts (8W *
23 hours) a day. The timer didn't register on the power meter so I
assume it's maybe a Watt to power.
Total savings? Close to $0.10/year!

-BR


The pay back time is not that bad. If you are saving 184 watt hours


Not Watt hours, these are Watt/days.


A kilowatt hour is 1000 watts of power being used for 1 hour. The
electric company bills for kilowatt hours used.

Your power usage for the chargers was 8 watts. Every hour you were using
8 watt hours (or 0.008 kilowatt hours). Each day you save 184 watt
hours (or 0.184 kilowatt hours). So you save 0.184 kilowatt hours
per day. Each year you save 365 times 0.184 kilowatt hours = 67.16
kilowatt hours per year.


Point being, having things on a timer can save some cash. My electric
water heater is on a timer, basically it is set to run for an hour in
the early morning, cost savings shows maybe 15% over the pre-timer days
(water heating is metered separately so it's easy to verify).
As pointed out however, sometimes the cost of equipment can far exceed
the savings 8^)


per day, then you are saving 67.16 kilowatt hours per year. If you
pay $0.12 per kilowatt hour then your savings is $8.06 per year. If
you pay $0.35 per kilowatt hour then your savings is $23.51 per year. (I
chose those rates since those are the numbers on the sliding scale
on my electric bill.)


Dan

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On 10/26/14, 11:58 AM, Dan Coby wrote:
On 10/26/2014 8:07 AM, Brewster wrote:
On 10/25/14, 1:15 PM, Dan Coby wrote:
On 10/25/2014 7:47 AM, Brewster wrote:

snip
When I was playing around with one of those cheap power monitor
meters I
decided to check out my drill chargers (Milwaukee NiMH & Lion). Turns
out they suck about 4 watts each without batteries being charged. I
took
an old-school timer switch and set it so it activates for 1 hour per
day. This keeps the batteries charged and saves me the 184 Watts (8W *
23 hours) a day. The timer didn't register on the power meter so I
assume it's maybe a Watt to power.
Total savings? Close to $0.10/year!

-BR

The pay back time is not that bad. If you are saving 184 watt hours


Not Watt hours, these are Watt/days.


A kilowatt hour is 1000 watts of power being used for 1 hour. The
electric company bills for kilowatt hours used.

Your power usage for the chargers was 8 watts. Every hour you were using
8 watt hours (or 0.008 kilowatt hours). Each day you save 184 watt
hours (or 0.184 kilowatt hours). So you save 0.184 kilowatt hours
per day. Each year you save 365 times 0.184 kilowatt hours = 67.16
kilowatt hours per year.


Oops, yes I missed my cents/dollars error. The $10/year savings ( I pay
about $0.15/kWh) will buy me a new battery when my current one dies.

-BR



Point being, having things on a timer can save some cash. My electric
water heater is on a timer, basically it is set to run for an hour in
the early morning, cost savings shows maybe 15% over the pre-timer days
(water heating is metered separately so it's easy to verify).
As pointed out however, sometimes the cost of equipment can far exceed
the savings 8^)


per day, then you are saving 67.16 kilowatt hours per year. If you
pay $0.12 per kilowatt hour then your savings is $8.06 per year. If
you pay $0.35 per kilowatt hour then your savings is $23.51 per year. (I
chose those rates since those are the numbers on the sliding scale
on my electric bill.)


Dan



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