I am getting ready to replace the wood doors on my shed. I am going
with the same materials, except I am chainging the hinges.

I am replacing this style hinge (not exact match but close)...
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Hardwa...anley+t+hinges

With this style hinge (looks like photo)...
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Nation...words=t+hinges

Instead of screwing the hinges in place, I plan to bolt them in place.
Currently there are three hinges on each of the two doors, which
brings up a question ... Can I go with two hinges or do I still need
three per door?

Originally I was going to replace the enitre doorway with a double
steel door/frame but the price of the door alone would triple the
cost. Instead I opted to replace with same wood but lose some of the
decorative cross members (water seeps in too much) and better hinges.
I think once it is primed, painted and caulked, it should last longer
than the originals, which have lasted 19 years.

I am also replacing the hasp and inner door bolt-lock with slightly
heavier and longer galvanized versions. The original cheap bolt-lock
was never really long or strong enough to keep the one door closed.
Any other tips or suggestions welcome. I want this to last me at least
another ten years and I think the rest of the shed can do that easily.

`Casper

"Casper" wrote in message

I am getting ready to replace the wood doors on my shed. I am going
with the same materials, except I am chainging the hinges.

I am replacing this style hinge (not exact match but close)...
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Hardwa...anley+t+hinges

With this style hinge (looks like photo)...
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Nation...words=t+hinges

Instead of screwing the hinges in place, I plan to bolt them in place.
Currently there are three hinges on each of the two doors, which
brings up a question ... Can I go with two hinges or do I still need
three per door?

It depends. How big - and heavy - are the doors?

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On Friday, October 10, 2014 10:53:17 AM UTC-5, Casper wrote:
I am getting ready to replace the wood doors on my shed. I am going
with the same materials, except I am chainging the hinges.

Originally I was going to replace the enitre doorway with a double
steel door/frame....
Instead I opted to replace with same wood

I'm supposing you are making/building your new (double?) doors & frame.

Any good quality hinge is recommended. You would need to gauge, for yourself, the weight of the doors, as to how many hinges would be best. Maybe, put two on, then if you find a third is necessary, add an additional, later.

As for as water entering the shed, build your framing as you would a home's entrance: Good sound door stops, a good heavy duty sloped threshold, maybe some weather stripping, appropriately flash/seal the installation of the frame to the rough wall, etc. Caulk well under the threshold. Since, I suppose, you are removing the old framing/threshold (maybe exposing the floor framing, under neath), make sure the floor joists/supports are up to par, solid, etc.... i.e., do a good inspection of the supports and flooring, while you're at it. Has any of that gotten wet, in the past, and may be needing some maintenance or additional support?

Sonny

On 10/10/2014 1:25 PM, Sonny wrote:
I am getting ready to replace the wood doors on my shed. I am going
with the same materials, except I am chainging the hinges.
Originally I was going to replace the enitre doorway with a double
steel door/frame....
Instead I opted to replace with same wood

I suspect it depends on how big the shed, and the size of the doors.

I have a 10 X 12' shed with 4X8 finished plywood panels on a 2 X 4 frame.

The doors were cut from the 4X8 panel and a 2X4 frame added to each door
for re enforcement.

Each door is on a piano type hinge that runs the full length of the door.

The shed is three years old and the piano hinge is working well, and is
doing the job.

Keith Nuttle wrote:
On 10/10/2014 1:25 PM, Sonny wrote:
I am getting ready to replace the wood doors on my shed.
I am going
with the same materials, except I am chainging the
hinges.
Originally I was going to replace the enitre doorway
with a double
steel door/frame....
Instead I opted to replace with same wood

I suspect it depends on how big the shed, and the size of
the doors.

I have a 10 X 12' shed with 4X8 finished plywood panels on
a 2 X 4
frame.
The doors were cut from the 4X8 panel and a 2X4 frame
added to each
door for re enforcement.

Each door is on a piano type hinge that runs the full
length of the
door.
The shed is three years old and the piano hinge is working
well, and
is doing the job.

i have a 16x20 with the same hinge setup and had no issues
for 20+ yrs
I'd go with the piano hinge again

On 10/10/2014 10:53 AM, Casper wrote:
I am getting ready to replace the wood doors on my shed. I am going
with the same materials, except I am chainging the hinges.

I am replacing this style hinge (not exact match but close)...
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Hardwa...anley+t+hinges

With this style hinge (looks like photo)...
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Nation...words=t+hinges

Instead of screwing the hinges in place, I plan to bolt them in place.
Currently there are three hinges on each of the two doors, which
brings up a question ... Can I go with two hinges or do I still need
three per door?

Originally I was going to replace the enitre doorway with a double
steel door/frame but the price of the door alone would triple the
cost. Instead I opted to replace with same wood but lose some of the
decorative cross members (water seeps in too much) and better hinges.
I think once it is primed, painted and caulked, it should last longer
than the originals, which have lasted 19 years.

I am also replacing the hasp and inner door bolt-lock with slightly
heavier and longer galvanized versions. The original cheap bolt-lock
was never really long or strong enough to keep the one door closed.
Any other tips or suggestions welcome. I want this to last me at least
another ten years and I think the rest of the shed can do that easily.

`Casper

Buy the extra heavy ones - looks like the pin in the hinge is sloppy.
If it is a look alike and sloppy, then the door will sag or worse.
http://www.amazon.com/National-Hardw...RMWFFYT VMZD4

or
http://www.amazon.com/National-Hardw...W5SV3N2 VSG99

Spend the 15 or 20 on each and you will never look back.

Martin

I'm supposing you are making/building your new (double?) doors & frame.

Yes. Exactly the same as what it has now. (Sizes below)

Any good quality hinge is recommended. You would need to gauge,
for yourself, the weight of the doors, as to how many hinges would be best.
Maybe, put two on, then if you find a third is necessary, add an additional, later.

Currently it has three hinges per door of a lesser quality/strength
than the gate hinge link I posted.

As for as water entering the shed, build your framing as you would a home's entrance:
Good sound door stops, a good heavy duty sloped threshold, maybe some weather stripping,
appropriately flash/seal the installation of the frame to the rough wall, etc. Caulk well under
the threshold. Since, I suppose, you are removing the old framing/threshold (maybe exposing
the floor framing, under neath), make sure the floor joists/supports are up to par, solid, etc..
i.e., do a good inspection of the supports and flooring, while you're at it. Has any of that gotte
wet, in the past, and may be needing some maintenance or additional support?
Sonny

Not water into the shed, water pooling on the shed doors themselves.
On the front cross pieces; decorative barn style ... typical 1x4 trim
around entirety of both doors and one "X" on lower part of each door.
The trim was never caulked and so the water runs along the panels and
behind the trim, causing the trim and doors, to rot.

I'm not ripping up any flooring, or tearing apart the door framing. No
need as all is in good shape. This is a standard kit shed, 10'x16',
and it came with all the trimmings ninteen years ago.

Door space is are 5'11" wide and 7'1" tall. So 5'11"/2 gives 71"
total, roughly 35.5" per door width. I figure, with better hinges and
hasp, new wood panels and a few 2x4's, total cost will be about $100.

I want to replace the doors with minimal cost, within reason of
keeping it around at least another ten years. Otherwise I can
rent-to-own a new, bigger and better one in that time frame and not
have any hands-on work to do myself. It includes a metal roof,
windows, more vents, etc., all dropped on site pre-built.

Ultimately that would cost 5-6 times my repair cost but I already have
three people who would buy my current shed and I would not would not
have to do any work myself. I know it sounds lazy but I have been
having major back, neck and hand issues this last year which are
getting worse and I don't know how much longer I can continue to do
jobs myself.

`Casper

Keith Nuttle was heard to mutter:
I suspect it depends on how big the shed, and the size of the doors.

10'x16' ... double doors ... 5'11" wide x 7'1" tall total size.
Roughly 35.5" width per door. Basic kit shed bought 19-20 yrs ago.

I have a 10 X 12' shed with 4X8 finished plywood panels on a 2 X 4 frame.

Sounds basically same as mine.

The doors were cut from the 4X8 panel and a 2X4 frame added to each door
for re enforcement.

Exactly the same here.

Each door is on a piano type hinge that runs the full length of the door.

Ours came with typical T-style hinges. Not uber cheap but not great.
Three hinges per door.

I thought about piano hinges but was informed (here as matter of fact)
that they are not great long term on outside sheds.

The shed is three years old and the piano hinge is working well, and is
doing the job.

Our biggest problem with the doors has been the water behind trim
causing rot and hinge screws coming out causing us to move hinges to
keep door on and funtional. Bolting was recommended here and by others
and that sounded like the longer lasting approach.
`Casper

"ChairMan" was heard to mutter:
i have a 16x20 with the same hinge setup and had no issues
for 20+ yrs
I'd go with the piano hinge again

I think a handful of people suggested piano hinges but most others
recommended bolting in hinges saying it would work better and last
longer. Since we've had to move the exsisting hinges three times to
keep the doors on, I'm not sure how well that would work on this shed.
`Casper

I am replacing this style hinge (not exact match but close)...
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Hardwa...anley+t+hinges

With this style hinge (looks like photo)...
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Nation...words=t+hinges
`Casper


Buy the extra heavy ones - looks like the pin in the hinge is sloppy.
If it is a look alike and sloppy, then the door will sag or worse.
http://www.amazon.com/National-Hardw...RMWFFYT VMZD4
or
http://www.amazon.com/National-Hardw...W5SV3N2 VSG99
Spend the 15 or 20 on each and you will never look back.
Martin

The first one looks like what I found at Lowe's but 1/3 the price. The
second is cheaper but if it's black, not sure that would fly. The
Stanley hinges are also bearing, zinc plated and look stronger than
that picture on Amazon shows. At least IMHO.

What I really would like to do but can't, at least not this year or
next, is to add on to the shed. Want to add another 6-8 feet in
length, separate that second section via wall, insulate and use a
smaller single door. That would let me turn it into a small workshop
that I can insulate and heat. I would then open up the wall on the
other end and but either a very large single door (current doorway is
5'11" so somewhere between 4 and 5 feet) or a rollup door. The larger
side would be used for storage as it is now. Right now I just need a
door fix that will, if necessary, last for several years should I not
be able to make the workshop happen.
`Casper

On Friday, October 10, 2014 8:53:17 AM UTC-7, Casper wrote:
I am getting ready to replace the wood doors on my shed. I am going

with the same materials, except I am chainging the hinges.



I am replacing this style (...) With this style hinge (looks like photo)...

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Nation...words=t+hinges


The depicted hinge has two fingers /one finger interleave, so there's only ONE point
of pressure holding weight. Typical exterior doors have three/two interleave,
which means two points of pressure, and use three hinges.

Shed doors typically open outward, so the hinge will be out in weather, but
otherwise the requirements are similar (take the same wind/weight loads).
I'd think about upping the hinges to four from three, or using a different
design. And, I'd try mortising the hinges into the frame (so one set of screws is
protected from weather), even if the door connection is to be bolted-through-the-face.

Casper wrote:
"ChairMan" was heard to mutter:
i have a 16x20 with the same hinge setup and had no issues
for 20+ yrs
I'd go with the piano hinge again

I think a handful of people suggested piano hinges but most others
recommended bolting in hinges saying it would work better and last
longer. Since we've had to move the exsisting hinges three times to
keep the doors on, I'm not sure how well that would work on this shed.
`Casper

I have not really been keeping up with this thread so if my contribution is
out of order, then I apologize. I built a 16x20 shed 20 years ago. The
front door is a 4x8 door that I framed with 2x3 with a cross X and sheeted
with 7/16 OSB. Hung it with two 3" hinges. I'm in central NY and this
configuration has shown no signs of weakening or failure over all those
years.

--

-Mike-

On 10/12/2014 12:29 PM, Casper wrote:
"ChairMan" was heard to mutter:
i have a 16x20 with the same hinge setup and had no issues
for 20+ yrs
I'd go with the piano hinge again

I think a handful of people suggested piano hinges but most others
recommended bolting in hinges saying it would work better and last
longer. Since we've had to move the exsisting hinges three times to
keep the doors on, I'm not sure how well that would work on this shed.
`Casper



Typically piano hinges are not suitable for out door weather. Tiny
hinge pins can quick rust if the hinge is exposed to weather. they
probably work well in some instances but are not really built for this
purpose.

"Casper" wrote:

I want to replace the doors with minimal cost, within reason of
keeping it around at least another ten years. Otherwise I can
rent-to-own a new, bigger and better one in that time frame and not
have any hands-on work to do myself. It includes a metal roof,
windows, more vents, etc., all dropped on site pre-built.

Ultimately that would cost 5-6 times my repair cost but I already
have
three people who would buy my current shed and I would not would not
have to do any work myself. I know it sounds lazy but I have been
having major back, neck and hand issues this last year which are
getting worse and I don't know how much longer I can continue to do
jobs myself.

----------------------------------------------------------------
Plan B is a no brainer IMHO.

Not only do you pass the rebuild on to somebody else,
but you get a new bigger shed.

Lew

On Sunday, October 12, 2014 12:49:25 PM UTC-5, Casper wrote:
What I really would like to do but can't, at least not this year or
next, is to add on to the shed.

Wish I were nearby. I'd come help. I enjoy arguing with work mates, that kind of stuff. Yeah, we'd build an overhang over the doorway, keep that water away, then build and hang a porch swing, also.... some place to sit and think about next year's projects.

Sonny

On 10/12/2014 4:49 PM, Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Casper" wrote:

I want to replace the doors with minimal cost, within reason of
keeping it around at least another ten years. Otherwise I can
rent-to-own a new, bigger and better one in that time frame and not
have any hands-on work to do myself. It includes a metal roof,
windows, more vents, etc., all dropped on site pre-built.

Ultimately that would cost 5-6 times my repair cost but I already
have
three people who would buy my current shed and I would not would not
have to do any work myself. I know it sounds lazy but I have been
having major back, neck and hand issues this last year which are
getting worse and I don't know how much longer I can continue to do
jobs myself.

----------------------------------------------------------------
Plan B is a no brainer IMHO.

Not only do you pass the rebuild on to somebody else,
but you get a new bigger shed.

Lew


While plan B sounds good, what will the bureaucrats be happy with it or
will you need a couple of tons of permits, and buckets of money for the
permits.

On 10/12/2014 01:57 PM, Sonny wrote:
On Sunday, October 12, 2014 12:49:25 PM UTC-5, Casper wrote:
What I really would like to do but can't, at least not this year or
next, is to add on to the shed.

Wish I were nearby. I'd come help. I enjoy arguing with work mates, that kind of stuff. Yeah, we'd build an overhang over the doorway, keep that water away, then build and hang a porch swing, also.... some place to sit and think about next year's projects.

Sonny

I like the way you think, Sonny :-)


--
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure,the creed of ignorance, and the
gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery"
-Winston Churchill

On 10/12/2014 3:57 PM, Sonny wrote:
On Sunday, October 12, 2014 12:49:25 PM UTC-5, Casper wrote:
What I really would like to do but can't, at least not this year or
next, is to add on to the shed.

Wish I were nearby. I'd come help. I enjoy arguing with work mates, that kind of stuff. Yeah, we'd build an overhang over the doorway, keep that water away, then build and hang a porch swing, also.... some place to sit and think about next year's projects.

Sonny

Just wondering here -
Build an A frame of sorts - stout and strong - place it and attach it
near the back wall. cut off the end of the house - and have a way
to handle it and move it backwards. Then build the open ends together.

That or make the back wall an inner wall - and strip off most of the
outer skin and support it such that it isn't a wall but an arch.
Maybe you want a wall with a door there. Maybe not.

Might want a new king beam along the ridge or splice in.

Martin

I want to replace the doors with minimal cost, within reason of
keeping it around at least another ten years. Otherwise I can
rent-to-own a new, bigger and better one in that time frame and not
have any hands-on work to do myself. It includes a metal roof,
windows, more vents, etc., all dropped on site pre-built.

Ultimately that would cost 5-6 times my repair cost but I already have
three people who would buy my current shed and I would not would not
have to do any work myself. I know it sounds lazy but I have been
having major back, neck and hand issues this last year which are
getting worse and I don't know how much longer I can continue to do
jobs myself.
`Casper
----------------------------------------------------------------
Plan B is a no brainer IMHO.
Not only do you pass the rebuild on to somebody else,
but you get a new bigger shed.
Lew
----------------------------------------------------------------
While plan B sounds good, what will the bureaucrats be happy with it or
will you need a couple of tons of permits, and buckets of money for the
permits.
Keith Nuttle
----------------------------------------------------------------
Thankfully, no need for a permit where I live. All I need to do for a
new one is show a photo of the completed unit to our HOA for approval.
Since they approved the original without a blink, I suspect no real
difficulty in same for a replacement. Only right now I'd prefer to use
that money for other repairs, replacements and upgrades. /shrug

What I really would like to do but can't, at least not this year or
next, is to add on to the shed.
`Casper

Wish I were nearby. I'd come help. I enjoy arguing with work mates, that kind of stuff. Yeah, we'd build an overhang over the doorway, keep that water away, then build and hang a porch swing, also .... some place to sit and think about next year's projects.
Sonny

I do like the way you think. I certainly like the swing idea!

Help around here is tough. Seems no one in the family but one does any
DiY projects and right now he is working on his own deck and house in
preparation for his first child. Ergo my plan B creation/backup.
`Casper

Train your mind to test every thought, ideology,
train of reasoning, and claim to truth.

On Friday, October 10, 2014 8:53:17 AM UTC-7, Casper wrote:
I am getting ready to replace the wood doors on my shed. I am going
with the same materials, except I am chainging the hinges.

I am replacing this style (...) With this style hinge (looks like photo)...
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Nation...words=t+hinges


The depicted hinge has two fingers /one finger interleave, so there's only ONE point
of pressure holding weight. Typical exterior doors have three/two interleave,
which means two points of pressure, and use three hinges.

Interesting point but not sure additional hinges are really necessary.
Current hinges are two/one interleave and three per door and it has
stayed hung 99% straight all these years.

Shed doors typically open outward, so the hinge will be out in weather, but
otherwise the requirements are similar (take the same wind/weight loads).
I'd think about upping the hinges to four from three, or using a different
design. And, I'd try mortising the hinges into the frame (so one set of screws is
protected from weather), even if the door connection is to be bolted-through-the-face.

The current hinges are hardly rusted at all. It's just the darn door.
It was never thought of to caulk the trim to prevent water seepage. I
should have known better and I let it get away from me. Still the rest
of the shed is in good condition except for a little on the bottom on
the long sides. Splash up has done a litte damage but I should be able
to repair that easily enough before repainting. Have thought about
running a trim board there too but not sure it's worth it and that
would also require caulking and be another potential water trap.

Even the hasp and lock show minimal signs of rust/age. I go out every
year and clean them up a bit with WD40 and it seems to have helped in
keeping things pretty clean and working smoothly.
`Casper

"ChairMan" was heard to mutter:
i have a 16x20 with the same hinge setup and had no issues
for 20+ yrs. I'd go with the piano hinge again

I think a handful of people suggested piano hinges but most others
recommended bolting in hinges saying it would work better and last
longer. Since we've had to move the exsisting hinges three times to
keep the doors on, I'm not sure how well that would work on this shed.
`Casper

I have not really been keeping up with this thread so if my contribution is
out of order, then I apologize. I built a 16x20 shed 20 years ago. The
front door is a 4x8 door that I framed with 2x3 with a cross X and sheeted
with 7/16 OSB. Hung it with two 3" hinges. I'm in central NY and this
configuration has shown no signs of weakening or failure over all those
years.
Mike Marlow

That's pretty similar to my build. It was a 10x16 kit from 84 Lumber a
couple decades ago. I did a thorough prep/paint job on it initially
and have yet to need to do a recoat. Only problem has been the dang
doors. Almost bought a double-door steel and framed kit from Menard's
to hang in place but it's triple what I'd pay ro repair using same
material and has a minimum six week order waiting period. I waited
last year and they were continually delayed so I canceled till this
year and then other stuff got in the way before I could get to work on
it. So, here I sit pondering my options. I hope to get it done before
the end of the month.
`Casper

PS ... I do appreciate the input from everyone. I do prefer to check
all my options before making a final decision and commecning on a
project. So thanks to everyone.

"Casper" wrote in message


The current hinges are hardly rusted at all. It's just the darn door.
It was never thought of to caulk the trim to prevent water seepage. I
should have known better and I let it get away from me. Still the rest
of the shed is in good condition except for a little on the bottom on
the long sides. Splash up has done a litte damage but I should be able
to repair that easily enough before repainting. Have thought about
running a trim board there too but not sure it's worth it and that
would also require caulking and be another potential water trap.

YMMV but I don't think caulking is a very good fix for the tops of boards
that are attached to something else.

Better, IMO, is pressure treated lumber. Barring that, bevel the top edge
of the horizontal board; even better is to bevel and bed. One could use
caulking to bed...one could also use plumber's putty. Perhaps the best
bedding material is "boatyard bedding compound" which is essentially
plumber's putty with a wood preservative.



--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On Tue, 14 Oct 2014 06:18:16 -0400, "dadiOH"
wrote:

"Casper" wrote in message


The current hinges are hardly rusted at all. It's just the darn door.
It was never thought of to caulk the trim to prevent water seepage. I
should have known better and I let it get away from me. Still the rest
of the shed is in good condition except for a little on the bottom on
the long sides. Splash up has done a litte damage but I should be able
to repair that easily enough before repainting. Have thought about
running a trim board there too but not sure it's worth it and that
would also require caulking and be another potential water trap.

YMMV but I don't think caulking is a very good fix for the tops of boards
that are attached to something else.

Better, IMO, is pressure treated lumber. Barring that, bevel the top edge
of the horizontal board; even better is to bevel and bed. One could use
caulking to bed...one could also use plumber's putty. Perhaps the best
bedding material is "boatyard bedding compound" which is essentially
plumber's putty with a wood preservative.

I'd rather flash the top so water can't get at the wood at all. PT
doesn't help much at all. I've repaired/replaced plenty of water
damaged PT, over the years.

YMMV but I don't think caulking is a very good fix for the tops of boards
that are attached to something else.

Better, IMO, is pressure treated lumber. Barring that, bevel the top edge
of the horizontal board; even better is to bevel and bed. One could use
caulking to bed...one could also use plumber's putty. Perhaps the best
bedding material is "boatyard bedding compound" which is essentially
plumber's putty with a wood preservative.
dadiOH

Only cheap solution I could come up with was to fill the top edges of
the boards to make the water run off. I believe the lumber is pressure
treated but I'm not positive. Thought about plumber's putty and might
use that instead. I'm certainly open to suggestions.

I am getting ready to replace the wood doors on my shed...
`Casper

Work in progress. Check a.b.pictures.woodworking for photo.
`Casper

On Tuesday, October 21, 2014 5:42:48 PM UTC-5, Casper wrote:
I am getting ready to replace the wood doors on my shed...

`Casper



Work in progress. Check a.b.pictures.woodworking for photo.

`Casper

It's looking good.

If there's some good sturdy framing above the door and along that gambrel roof line, then maybe frame and install a 2' overhang above the door. If the framing is lacking, then make some simple corbels or triangle braces, to brace the overhang. If that's 5/8" T1-11, then it, along, might be sturdy enough to support corbels or Tri braces for a 2' wide overhang.

If not an overhang, a simple drip edge, above the doors, would help, some.

Prime all that T1-11, even behind the door facings and along the edges of the T1-11, before you cover it up with facings. Fill the T1-11 grooves, at the bottoms where the facings are, with caulk, so water doesn't get down inside, behind the facings.

Clean the siding with Clorox and Jomax, before priming and painting. *A gallon of Jomax is enough to clean a 2000 sq ft house.

Remove the hinges/hardware and prime & paint behind the hardware. When priming and painting rough T1-11 surface, use a 3/4" nap roller, so the primier and paint gets down into the roughness. After application, run a paint brush over it, to smoothen it.

Are there any spots, along the T1-11 siding, where the bottom edges are starting to decay or rot, possibly needing replacing within the next year? I have some recommendations for replacing bottom edges.

Sonny

It's looking good.
Thanks.

If there's some good sturdy framing above the door and along that gambrel roof line,
then maybe frame and install a 2' overhang above the door. If the framing is lacking,
then make some simple corbels or triangle braces, to brace the overhang. If that's
5/8" T1-11, then it, along, might be sturdy enough to support corbels or Tri braces
for a 2' wide overhang.
There is one brace and one 2x4 at the front where you see the missing
trim. Not sure how sturdy it is right now but I would like to
strengthen it up so I can add an locking up-bolt behind the left door.
Added one on the bottom but door is still pretty flexible at the top.

If not an overhang, a simple drip edge, above the doors, would help, some.
Was considering that as an option. Would love to have a bit more of an
overhang to protect from rain and snow but haven't decided what yet.

Prime all that T1-11, even behind the door facings and along the edges of the T1-11,
before you cover it up with facings. Fill the T1-11 grooves, at the bottoms where the
facings are, with caulk, so water doesn't get down inside, behind the facings.
Some of the T1 is primed behind the trim but we ran out of time for
the day so have to try to get the rest this weekend.

Clean the siding with Clorox and Jomax, before priming and painting. *A gallon of
Jomax is enough to clean a 2000 sq ft house.
I powerwashed the entire shed, including roof (loaded with green
growing inedible stuff) in the spring but at least the left side needs
it again from all the muddy splash up during the storms this year.

Remove the hinges/hardware and prime & paint behind the hardware. When
priming and painting rough T1-11 surface, use a 3/4" nap roller, so the primie
and paint gets down into the roughness. After application, run a paint brush
over it, to smoothen it.
I used Zin primer spray along some of the channels along the framing
and under the left trim. Didn't have time yet to bring out the roller.

Are there any spots, along the T1-11 siding, where the bottom edges are starting
to decay or rot, possibly needing replacing within the next year? I have some
recommendations for replacing bottom edges.
Sonny
Yes, the two long sides have decay in various stages along the bottom.
Too much splashing up from the ground when it rains.

I'll be very glad when this project is complete and off the to-do list
of repairs. It's been a thorn in my side for the last 18-24 mos with
everything that has kept me from working on it.

Thanks for the tips!

On Wednesday, October 22, 2014 10:55:27 AM UTC-5, Casper wrote:


recommendations for replacing bottom edges.

Yes, the two long sides have decay in various stages along the bottom.
Too much splashing up from the ground when it rains.

Flexible door: You might want to install a diagonal board/brace on the inside of your door, to help keep it from flexing (and eventually warping). Prime and paint the inside of the doors and the edges. Caulk any voids on the edges.

Refer to the first 4 pics: https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/?details=1

The edges of a 3/4" nap roller will easily roll primer and paint deep into those T1 grooves. Just whisk your paint brush along the groove, after the roller application.... piece-of-cake for getting primer and paint (proper coverage) deep into those grooves. T1-11 sometimes has voids between the plies and they show in those grooves. Caulk those voids!

Assuming you'll cut the rotted/decayed bottom edges with a circular saw, attach a 1X below your cut line and set your saw to 30 degrees, for the cut. Cutting at 45 degrees causes the saw to jam more (awkward position, cutting sideways, I find), since the surface is likely to be somewhat uneven. Less jamming with a 30 degree cut. You want a bevel cut, upward, to the inside. This bevel allows for a 30 degree drip edge, if you'd like one. Caulk the installed drip edge.

Your replacement siding will be bevel cut on both the upper and lower edges, the bottom edge being a knife-edge drip line, hence any water won't wick across the bottom edge (since there will be no flat bottom edge) and/or up the back side of the new siding, i.e., "skirt". Before installing the skirt, install some 6" or 8" flashing behind it, along the lower edge. Also, before installing the skirt, prime and paint the lower beveled edge and a roller's width up the backside of the skirt.

A bevel cut, for the edges, allows for better mating of the edges, also. Square cuts look like crap, they simply don't match/mate, well, unless you attach a backer board between the studs.

In the future, only the skirt will need to be replaced and no additional cutting for the repaired sections, i.e., pop the old one off, install a new one. Caulk the seams.

Sonny

Yes, the two long sides have decay in various stages along the bottom.
Too much splashing up from the ground when it rains.

Flexible door: You might want to install a diagonal board/brace on the inside
of your door, to help keep it from flexing (and eventually warping). Prime and
paint the inside of the doors and the edges. Caulk any voids on the edges.

Hadn't thought to do a diagnal brace but I'll consider it. The doors
weren't wapred; only the side 2x4 that the T1 was nailed into. That's
been replaced and might need to on the right side as well.

Refer to the first 4 pics: https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/?details=1

The edges of a 3/4" nap roller will easily roll primer and paint deep into those T1 grooves.
Just whisk your paint brush along the groove, after the roller application.... piece-of-cake
for getting primer and paint (proper coverage) deep into those grooves. T1-11 sometimes
has voids between the plies and they show in those grooves. Caulk those voids!

Did a real good job on that when I first painted it. I'll have to get
a photo of the back and side which shows how much better it held up.

Assuming you'll cut the rotted/decayed bottom edges with a circular saw, attach a 1X
below your cut line and set your saw to 30 degrees, for the cut. Cutting at 45 degrees
causes the saw to jam more (awkward position, cutting sideways, I find), since the
surface is likely to be somewhat uneven. Less jamming with a 30 degree cut. You want
a bevel cut, upward, to the inside. This bevel allows for a 30 degree drip edge, if you'd
like one. Caulk the installed drip edge.

Your replacement siding will be bevel cut on both the upper and lower edges, the bottom
edge being a knife-edge drip line, hence any water won't wick across the bottom edge
(since there will be no flat bottom edge) and/or up the back side of the new siding,
i.e., "skirt". Before installing the skirt, install some 6" or 8" flashing behind it, along the
lower edge. Also, before installing the skirt, prime and paint the lower beveled edge and
a roller's width up the backside of the skirt.

I like the skirting idea. Did you use regular metal flashing?

A bevel cut, for the edges, allows for better mating of the edges, also. Square cuts look
like crap, they simply don't match/mate, well, unless you attach a backer board between
the studs.

In the future, only the skirt will need to be replaced and no additional cutting for the
repaired sections, i.e., pop the old one off, install a new one. Caulk the seams.
Sonny

I like the idea of being able to replace just the skirt in the future.
I plan to dig out some of the ground next spring, edge and fill it in
with rock. Not sure if we'll do that to both sides. Muddiest area
seems to be between the house and shed.

I greatly appreciate the tips! Next year I hope to clean out the
inside and fix a few minor spots finally showing a little damage. Any
recommendations there?

`Casper

On 10/23/2014 11:14 AM, Casper wrote:


In the future, only the skirt will need to be replaced and no additional cutting for the
repaired sections, i.e., pop the old one off, install a new one. Caulk the seams.
Sonny

I like the idea of being able to replace just the skirt in the future.
I plan to dig out some of the ground next spring, edge and fill it in
with rock. Not sure if we'll do that to both sides. Muddiest area
seems to be between the house and shed.

Rethink that plan, Casper

I really liked the tip on this as presented, however, at my home, the
areas where I am having the problem with siding rotting out due to water
exposure are a) where concrete extends right up to the foundation and b)
where the area beneath the drip line from the roof, was dug out and
"finished" with gravel (septic stone, actually). Water hits either
surface and bounces back up 4" - 7" or so and soaks in.

Where there are evergreens, ground cover, etc. there is no problem. You
might do better with gutters and downspouts. Based on my experience, a
hard surface isn't going to help.

On Thursday, October 23, 2014 11:14:51 AM UTC-5, Casper wrote:

Hadn't thought to do a diagnal brace but I'll consider it. The doors
weren't wapred; only the side 2x4 that the T1 was nailed into. That's
been replaced and might need to on the right side as well.

Not warping, in the traditional sense of a board warping, but it flexes and, with time, tends to stay in a flexed position. The temporary T1 doors, on the back of my shop garage, flexed and, now, is pretty much bent, in a permanent position, making it hard to close and padlock the doors.


I like the skirting idea. Did you use regular metal flashing?

I think so. It's galvanized sheet metal, comes in a roll 15" to 18" wide. I don't recall the width I used. I installed 30# felt adjacent to the studs, then the flashing, then the skirt.

I like the idea of being able to replace just the skirt in the future.
I plan to dig out some of the ground next spring, edge and fill it in
with rock. Not sure if we'll do that to both sides. Muddiest area
seems to be between the house and shed.

I installed this kind of skirting on my old garage and have had to replace 2 areas. It seems to work well, so I've used the skirting idea on the shop remodel. Those Flickr pics are of the shop's garage. Here's another pic, during shop remodel/construction.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/438361...in/photostream

Sonny

On Thursday, October 23, 2014 11:14:51 AM UTC-5, Casper wrote:

I plan to dig out some of the ground next spring, edge and fill it in
with rock. Not sure if we'll do that to both sides. Muddiest area
seems to be between the house and shed.

Install a perforated 4" PVC drain pipe within the rock/gravel. This reduces the amount of gravel your trench requires (& reduces cost for gravel). This French drain system should help along your homes foundation, also. Continue with the (solid) pipe (or some flex pipe) away from your foundation, if possible.

Sonny

On Thursday, October 23, 2014 9:37:10 PM UTC-5, Unquestionably Confused wrote:

Rethink that plan, Casper

I really liked the tip on this as presented, however, at my home, the
areas where I am having the problem with siding rotting out due to water
exposure are a) where concrete extends right up to the foundation and b)
where the area beneath the drip line from the roof, was dug out and
"finished" with gravel (septic stone, actually). Water hits either
surface and bounces back up 4" - 7" or so and soaks in.

Where there are evergreens, ground cover, etc. there is no problem. You
might do better with gutters and downspouts. Based on my experience, a
hard surface isn't going to help.

Right, I agree. Casper seems to be on a budget, so, right now, he can only do so much. Gutters, etal, including the French drain, are/may be future projects, but at least he has some ideas to consider.

Sonny

I plan to dig out some of the ground next spring, edge and fill it in
with rock. Not sure if we'll do that to both sides. Muddiest area
seems to be between the house and shed.

I am still going to do this just to keep it cleaner. All the leaves in
the surrounding 200ft radius seem to end up here. Add mud to that and
you have a pain in the a%& to get leaves out along with muck. So it
was planned for based on more than the shed issues.

Install a perforated 4" PVC drain pipe within the rock/gravel. This
reduces the amount of gravel your trench requires (& reduces cost
for gravel). This French drain system should help along your homes
foundation, also. Continue with the (solid) pipe (or some flex pipe)
away from your foundation, if possible.
Sonny

I've done the french drain once a long time ago back east. Used it for
a couple things and it worked well enough in an area with a high water
table, clay base and sandy soil.

I was thinking to try that here but the previous person threw down
some concrete (originally there was an old deck there) and I really
don't want to try and hammer that out. So I will have to look (in
spring) to see if any under drain is possible. If so, I will.

Train your mind to test every thought, ideology,
train of reasoning, and claim to truth.

Unquestionably Confused wrote:
Where there are evergreens, ground cover, etc. there is no problem. You
might do better with gutters and downspouts. Based on my experience, a
hard surface isn't going to help.

Right, I agree. Casper seems to be on a budget, so, right now, he can only
do so much. Gutters, etal, including the French drain, are/may be future
projects, but at least he has some ideas to consider.
Sonny

If it weren't for the budget right now, I'd be doing way more here.
Sadly we still have a leak in the roof and some house shifting to
remedy that is tapping into our budget unexpectedly.

Right now the second door is going up. I've primed/painted the
underside of the side trim so those hinges won't have to be removed
later. Now I am trying to decide on how to do the trim above the door
to cover the gap effeciently and maybe add a bit of rain protection.

Btw ... it's she, not he. Ironically my husband isn't into doing this
kind of stuff but I love it. I even enjoy painting. Yeah, I know.
`Casper