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Default Brown Paper Bag Final Sanding?

The guy at woodcraft suggested using regular old brown paper grocery
bags, instead of 320-400-ish sandpaper, to knock off the raised grain
after staining. Well, I just tried it and it seemed to do a pretty good
job.

I remember talking to a friend of mine who does auto paint jobs and
custom helmets and hockey masks. He said that on the occasion he can't
find any 2000-ish grit for his final inspection wet sanding, he'll just
grab some printer paper.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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--
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In ,
-MIKE- spewed forth:
The guy at woodcraft suggested using regular old brown paper grocery
bags, instead of 320-400-ish sandpaper, to knock off the raised grain
after staining. Well, I just tried it and it seemed to do a pretty
good job.

I remember talking to a friend of mine who does auto paint jobs and
custom helmets and hockey masks. He said that on the occasion he can't
find any 2000-ish grit for his final inspection wet sanding, he'll
just grab some printer paper.


Yup, an old finisher buddy taught me that trick and it works great.
Brown lunch bag or newspaper works well too


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On Nov 3, 12:11*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
The guy at woodcraft suggested using regular old brown paper grocery
bags, instead of 320-400-ish sandpaper, to knock off the raised grain
after staining. *Well, I just tried it and it seemed to do a pretty good
job.


They're also good for removing light surface rust without damaging a
finish such as bluing, I've been told for forever not to cut
cardboard because it is abrasive and will dull a knife. I've been
ignoring this for forever and just sharpening the (various) knives
when they get dull (from whatever reason).

And speaking of rust, the first thing I try on light rust is a coarse
terrycloth rag with some light oil (auto trans fluid works well).
This will usually remove rust with a good scrubbing, but won't harm
bluing or other finish.
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Default Brown Paper Bag Final Sanding?

Yep, paper bags works fine. Also, burlap.

Sonny
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On 11/3/2010 1:11 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
The guy at woodcraft suggested using regular old brown paper grocery
bags, instead of 320-400-ish sandpaper, to knock off the raised grain
after staining. Well, I just tried it and it seemed to do a pretty good
job.


It's been discussed here a number of times in the past. AAMOF, nothing
work like a brown paper bag on the final coat of shellac a week after it
cures.

--
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Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlC@ (the obvious)


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"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
The guy at woodcraft suggested using regular old brown paper grocery
bags, instead of 320-400-ish sandpaper, to knock off the raised grain
after staining. Well, I just tried it and it seemed to do a pretty good
job.

I remember talking to a friend of mine who does auto paint jobs and
custom helmets and hockey masks. He said that on the occasion he can't
find any 2000-ish grit for his final inspection wet sanding, he'll just
grab some printer paper.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply


Amazing what I can learn from this site. What a great group. WW



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On 11/3/10 4:54 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 11/3/2010 1:11 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
The guy at woodcraft suggested using regular old brown paper grocery
bags, instead of 320-400-ish sandpaper, to knock off the raised grain
after staining. Well, I just tried it and it seemed to do a pretty good
job.


It's been discussed here a number of times in the past. AAMOF, nothing
work like a brown paper bag on the final coat of shellac a week after it
cures.


I've never used shellac.
What about it makes the paper so good?
What's it doing to the shellac?


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

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On Nov 3, 11:11*am, -MIKE- wrote:
The guy at woodcraft suggested using regular old brown paper grocery
bags, instead of 320-400-ish sandpaper, to knock off the raised grain
after staining.


Is this a variant of the turner's trick of grabbing a handful of swarf
to burnish the finished workpiece? I thought that was mainly
heat and the resins and sap doing a quick polish. I'm partial to the
waxy-string method, myself.
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What about it makes the paper so good?


It is abrasive. The guys that do knives use it for final sharpen/
polish, I believe. A "paper" wheel, IIRC.


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On Wed, 03 Nov 2010 17:33:05 -0500, -MIKE-
wrote:

On 11/3/10 4:54 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 11/3/2010 1:11 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
The guy at woodcraft suggested using regular old brown paper grocery
bags, instead of 320-400-ish sandpaper, to knock off the raised grain
after staining. Well, I just tried it and it seemed to do a pretty good
job.


It's been discussed here a number of times in the past. AAMOF, nothing
work like a brown paper bag on the final coat of shellac a week after it
cures.


I've never used shellac.
What about it makes the paper so good?
What's it doing to the shellac?

The friction heats the shellac just enough to burnish it, and it is
just rough enough to both cause the friction and then burnish it super
smooth.


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On Wed, 3 Nov 2010 16:17:27 -0600, "WW"
wrote:


"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
The guy at woodcraft suggested using regular old brown paper grocery
bags, instead of 320-400-ish sandpaper, to knock off the raised grain
after staining. Well, I just tried it and it seemed to do a pretty good
job.

I remember talking to a friend of mine who does auto paint jobs and
custom helmets and hockey masks. He said that on the occasion he can't
find any 2000-ish grit for his final inspection wet sanding, he'll just
grab some printer paper.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply


Amazing what I can learn from this site. What a great group. WW


Newspaper makes a perfect "polishing cloth" for cleaning window glass.
Doesn't really mater if it has print on it or not.(but some seem to
think the ink actually helps - I've not noticed one way or the other)
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"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
I learned the newspaper window cleaning trick years ago .


So did I, Basic training.


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Likewise, a nice clean, new crisp dollar bill makes a fair electrical
contact cleaner in a pinch. I would imagine larger denominations work
equally well but I've never had one long enough to try.
--
The best argument against democracy is a five-minute conversation
with the average voter. (Winston Churchill)

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org


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On Wed, 3 Nov 2010 19:44:53 -0700, "CW"
wrote:


"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
I learned the newspaper window cleaning trick years ago .


So did I, Basic training.


But did you learn that a chamois skin works even better for the final
wipes?

--
Experience is a good teacher, but she send in terrific bills.
-- Minna Thomas Antrim
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On Nov 3, 10:25*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
On 11/3/10 8:54 PM, wrote:





On Wed, 03 Nov 2010 17:33:05 -0500,
wrote:


On 11/3/10 4:54 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 11/3/2010 1:11 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
The guy at woodcraft suggested using regular old brown paper grocery
bags, instead of 320-400-ish sandpaper, to knock off the raised grain
after staining. Well, I just tried it and it seemed to do a pretty good
job.


It's been discussed here a number of times in the past. AAMOF, nothing
work like a brown paper bag on the final coat of shellac a week after it
cures.


I've never used shellac.
What about it makes the paper so good?
What's it doing to the shellac?

* The friction heats the shellac just enough to burnish it, and it is
just rough enough to both cause the friction and then burnish it super
smooth.


Serious? * *Tell me you're not just making that up (like some guys in
here). *:-)
Makes sense to me.

--

* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply


Oak rust, suspended in animal fat and rubbed in with Festool
Brownbagpaper™ is the ticket for me.


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On 11/4/10 7:13 AM, Larry Jaques wrote:
On Wed, 3 Nov 2010 19:44:53 -0700,
wrote:


wrote in message
...
I learned the newspaper window cleaning trick years ago .


So did I, Basic training.


But did you learn that a chamois skin works even better for the final
wipes?


I learned that there was usually some free and available newspaper any
and everywhere, within reach of windows. Chamois, not so much. :-)


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

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On 11/4/10 10:42 AM, Robatoy wrote:
On Nov 3, 10:25 pm, wrote:
On 11/3/10 8:54 PM, wrote:





On Wed, 03 Nov 2010 17:33:05 -0500,
wrote:


On 11/3/10 4:54 PM, Swingman wrote:
On 11/3/2010 1:11 PM, -MIKE- wrote:
The guy at woodcraft suggested using regular old brown paper grocery
bags, instead of 320-400-ish sandpaper, to knock off the raised grain
after staining. Well, I just tried it and it seemed to do a pretty good
job.


It's been discussed here a number of times in the past. AAMOF, nothing
work like a brown paper bag on the final coat of shellac a week after it
cures.


I've never used shellac.
What about it makes the paper so good?
What's it doing to the shellac?
The friction heats the shellac just enough to burnish it, and it is
just rough enough to both cause the friction and then burnish it super
smooth.


Serious? Tell me you're not just making that up (like some guys in
here). :-)
Makes sense to me.


Oak rust, suspended in animal fat and rubbed in with Festool
Brownbagpaper™ is the ticket for me.


I'm still laughing... it's not getting old. :-)

Brownbagpaper™ sold in packs of one for $24.99.... on sale at Woodcraft,
4 for $100.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

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"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 3 Nov 2010 19:44:53 -0700, "CW"
wrote:


"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
I learned the newspaper window cleaning trick years ago .


So did I, Basic training.


But did you learn that a chamois skin works even better for the final
wipes?



Not a lot of chamois laying around the barracks.


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On Nov 3, 2:11*pm, -MIKE- wrote:

I remember talking to a friend of mine who does auto paint jobs and
custom helmets and hockey masks. He said that on the occasion he can't
find any 2000-ish grit for his final inspection wet sanding, he'll just
grab some printer paper.


Should work even better if you rubbed a bit of jeweler's rouge
into the paper.
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On Nov 3, 2:11 pm, wrote:

I remember talking to a friend of mine who does auto paint jobs and
custom helmets and hockey masks. He said that on the occasion he can't
find any 2000-ish grit for his final inspection wet sanding, he'll just
grab some printer paper.



I used it again today, to knock the dust off of the spray satin topcoat
I put over the dye.
Was faster than a synthetic buffing pad I normally use.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply



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On Thu, 4 Nov 2010 10:25:52 -0700, "CW"
wrote:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
.. .
On Wed, 3 Nov 2010 19:44:53 -0700, "CW"
wrote:


"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
I learned the newspaper window cleaning trick years ago .

So did I, Basic training.


But did you learn that a chamois skin works even better for the final
wipes?


Not a lot of chamois laying around the barracks.


So hit the BX/PX, boy. Doubletime!

--
Experience is a good teacher, but she send in terrific bills.
-- Minna Thomas Antrim
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On Nov 5, 12:32*am, -MIKE- wrote:
On Nov 3, 2:11 pm, *wrote:


I remember talking to a friend of mine who does auto paint jobs and
custom helmets and hockey masks. He said that on the occasion he can't
find any 2000-ish grit for his final inspection wet sanding, he'll just
grab some printer paper.


I used it again today, to knock the dust off of the spray satin topcoat
I put over the dye.
Was faster than a synthetic buffing pad I normally use.

--

* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply


One of my guys used to, and I emphasize 'used to' clean his glasses
with paper shop towels. Scratched the ****e out of the coating on his
polycarbonate lenses. Paper is fibre. Fibres have 'ends' on
them...those are scratchy. Do not use TP to blow your nose for any
extended period of time during a cold, you'll end up looking like WC
Fields.
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On Nov 5, 7:31*am, Han wrote:
Robatoy wrote in news:3a7f2f1f-2977-4bc6-a46d-
:

Do not use TP to blow your nose for any
extended period of time during a cold, you'll end up looking like WC
Fields.


Your Dutch heritage shows. *I remember Dutch TP as about 80 grit. *Ouch ...

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid


LOL!!...that brown stuff was brutal! (But did the job.)
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wrote in message
...
On Wed, 3 Nov 2010 16:17:27 -0600, "WW"
wrote:

Newspaper makes a perfect "polishing cloth" for cleaning window glass.
Doesn't really mater if it has print on it or not.(but some seem to
think the ink actually helps - I've not noticed one way or the other)


I have found a better way to clean windows, have tried the news paper with
ok results. Use a window cleaner and wipe off with a microfiber towel. The
micro fiber towel will not swish the dirt around but will capture and
retain the dirt. Additionally car wax will help prevent the window from
getting dirty again as quickly and will remove those tough spots.




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Robatoy wrote:

One of my guys used to, and I emphasize 'used to' clean his glasses
with paper shop towels. Scratched the ****e out of the coating on his
polycarbonate lenses. Paper is fibre. Fibres have 'ends' on
them...those are scratchy. Do not use TP to blow your nose for any
extended period of time during a cold, you'll end up looking like WC
Fields.


Preach it brother. Don't people know that's what shirt sleeves are for?

--

-Mike-



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Robatoy wrote:
On Nov 5, 7:31 am, Han wrote:
Robatoy wrote in
news:3a7f2f1f-2977-4bc6-a46d-
:

Do not use TP to blow your nose for any
extended period of time during a cold, you'll end up looking like WC
Fields.


Your Dutch heritage shows. I remember Dutch TP as about 80 grit.
Ouch ...

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid


LOL!!...that brown stuff was brutal! (But did the job.)


Ummmmmm... you're not supposed to use the TP with the brown stuff on it...

--

-Mike-



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"Mike Marlow" wrote in
:

LOL!!...that brown stuff was brutal! (But did the job.)


Ummmmmm... you're not supposed to use the TP with the brown stuff on
it...


Dutch TP used to have a greyish-brown color, like faded brown bag paper.
Color like that. Texture indeed close to 60-grit sandpaper.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid
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On Nov 5, 6:54*am, Robatoy wrote:
On Nov 5, 12:32*am, -MIKE- wrote:





On Nov 3, 2:11 pm, *wrote:


I remember talking to a friend of mine who does auto paint jobs and
custom helmets and hockey masks. He said that on the occasion he can't
find any 2000-ish grit for his final inspection wet sanding, he'll just
grab some printer paper.


I used it again today, to knock the dust off of the spray satin topcoat
I put over the dye.
Was faster than a synthetic buffing pad I normally use.


--


* -MIKE-


* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply


One of my guys used to, and I emphasize 'used to' clean his glasses
with paper shop towels. Scratched the ****e out of the coating on his
polycarbonate lenses. Paper is fibre. Fibres have 'ends' on
them...those are scratchy. Do not use TP to blow your nose for any
extended period of time during a cold, you'll end up looking like WC
Fields.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Pulp paper is made from wood, rag paper is made from
cloth. Pulp paper is going to scratch a LOT more than
100% rag, as my test on shellac with a sheet of printer
paper bore out last night. Use it for smoothing anything
short of the final glaze coat on French polish.
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On Nov 5, 12:35*pm, "Mike Marlow"
wrote:
Robatoy wrote:
On Nov 5, 7:31 am, Han wrote:
Robatoy wrote in
news:3a7f2f1f-2977-4bc6-a46d-
:


Do not use TP to blow your nose for any
extended period of time during a cold, you'll end up looking like WC
Fields.


Your Dutch heritage shows. I remember Dutch TP as about 80 grit.
Ouch ...


--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid


LOL!!...that brown stuff was brutal! (But did the job.)


Ummmmmm... you're not supposed to use the TP with the brown stuff on it....

--

-Mike-


I never could figure out outhouses with two holes... what...take a
dump with a buddy? Wha?

I did hear of a Newfoundlander who stuck a leg down each hole and
crapped his pants...but...


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Han wrote:
"Mike Marlow" wrote in
:

LOL!!...that brown stuff was brutal! (But did the job.)


Ummmmmm... you're not supposed to use the TP with the brown stuff on
it...


Dutch TP used to have a greyish-brown color, like faded brown bag
paper. Color like that. Texture indeed close to 60-grit sandpaper.


Yeah - I took that from the original discourse - I was trying to be funny...

--

-Mike-



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Robatoy wrote:


I never could figure out outhouses with two holes... what...take a
dump with a buddy? Wha?


I always thought they were a his-n-hers concept. But then I met my wife...

--

-Mike-



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"Robatoy" wrote

I never could figure out outhouses with two holes... what...take a
dump with a buddy? Wha?

For you city folks, who don't have much experience in outhouse design and
implementation, it may seem a mystery.

But as a country boy, who had to dig and build outhouses from time to time,
there is a practical consideration. It has to do with volume. If enough
people use one hole, you will fill up the ground hole and make the whole
outhouse experience extremely uncomfortable. By going to two holes, you get
a more even distribution of, cough, cough, well, you know.

Back in the day, they just used to drag the outhouse to a new hole/location
when one started to fill up. But when folks (and livestock) started to fall
in to the old holes, somebody came up with the two hole design. By the way,
I have seen three and four hole designs.

And for the real classy outhouses in snow country, they have styrofoam
seats. Much warmer on the behind when using the facility sitting down in
sub zero weather.



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On Nov 3, 12:11*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
The guy at woodcraft suggested using regular old brown paper grocery
bags, instead of 320-400-ish sandpaper, to knock off the raised grain
after staining. *Well, I just tried it and it seemed to do a pretty good
job.

I remember talking to a friend of mine who does auto paint jobs and
custom helmets and hockey masks. He said that on the occasion he can't
find any 2000-ish grit for his final inspection wet sanding, he'll just
grab some printer paper.


Yup.

I've been using the brown paper bag idea for quite a while.

Only slightly off topic: newspaper is probably the best thing to use
to clean glass (eg, your windshield). Seems the ink acts like a fine
pumice.
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