In addition to the below post........I need to add that the fence is not the
tablesaw fence, but a peice of oak hardwood made straight with a jointer
slightly oversized and sanded carefully to fit slot in table (with no play
whatsoever). For my blades the angle of grind was about 40 degrees. I am not
new to computers or newsgroups or woodworking..........but uploading pics to
newsgroups? Yes I am afraid that is a new one on me. Windows XP makes it
easy to resize for e-mail...but I really had to jump thru hoops to resize
then send to a newsgroup. Only thing I could figure was to resize for
e-mail, save to disk, then attach from there. One guy said right click to
resize. I will try that next time. sorry if I wasted anyone's time. I have
to start somewhere to learn this. :-(
Lyndell

I have a makeshift planer sharpening system that works for me. It involves
and old shopsmith (m/n)10ER and a 5/8"x 1/2" grinding wheel arbor (wood
craft) and a 120 grit aluminum oxide(white) grinding wheel (grainger) and a
homemade planer blade jig 3/4 plywood). The 5/8 arbor mounts to the ss
spindle and the stone goes on the the other end (1/2" threaded shaft). Set
ss in upright drill press position and angle tablesaw table to planer blade
angle. Build jig to hold blade firmly against table sawfence. The jig must
be 1/32" less than blade thickness and cut-out to the exact length of blade.
Set fence to contact grinding wheel and lock in place. Using saw table depth
screw bring planer blade in slight contact with grinding wheel. Work planer
blade slowly back and forth touching blade with barehand to ensure you are
not overheating blade. When grinding wheel is making little contact with
blade, make very small adjustments with table saw depth screw. Also lock
depth of table after each adjustment. I devised this system out of
necessity and it works. Future improvements will include a return system for
the depth of saw table in vertical positon(gravity does it for you in normal

position) and a 60 grit wheel to start with (and another arbor) and then
finish with 120 grit. Good luck! E-mail if there are ?????? I will try to
post pics @ ABPW . Be patient. If you have no patience send them out to
be sharpened. I don't think you can sharpen a planer blade too slowly. This
same setup should work on a drill press with tilt table. You can hone if
you like after this process but with the 120 grit wheel I don't see the need
for it. DO NOT USE A GREY GRINDING WHEEL . YOU WILL DESTROY YOUR PLANER
BLADES. You will take the temper out of them and even a professional will
tell you to throw them out. If you must know why I devised this system out
of necessity: I borrowed my brother-in-law's planer for a known naily
board planing job and hit several nails at the start. We had volunteer help
standing around with hands in pockets while I designed, built and used this
system. We were planing lumber the next morning and my BIL says: that planer
never cut that good , even out of the box. That is when I knew I was at
least on the right track.
Lyndell

There is nothing impossible if you are determined to do it.



"Jakes452" wrote in message
news:P3%6c.2391$Gg.1989@okepread03...
I have HSS 12" planer blades and 6" jointer blades (Hitachi). Are these
something I can sharpen myself? I was going to take to local sharpening
but
they are closed on weekends. I have stones and I looked for jigs or
something meant to hold the blade properly and could only find a $250
sharpending motorized wheel w/jig). Any URL reference or opinion is
appreciated.

thank you