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Default Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled

Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled.
It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners.

It slides nice and easy with no wiggle. I'm getting ready to put the
front and back cross pieces on and possible a blade guard. I'm also
pondering what to do as an adjustable miter gauge, clamps, etc.

So, show me yours.
What have you done that works well.
What doesn't?
What mistakes did you make?
All that stuff...


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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--
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Default Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled

On 1/17/2010 12:41 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled.
It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners.

It slides nice and easy with no wiggle. I'm getting ready to put the
front and back cross pieces on and possible a blade guard. I'm also
pondering what to do as an adjustable miter gauge, clamps, etc.

So, show me yours.
What have you done that works well.


Cheap (made from scraps), Simple
Forward travel limited by stopped slots in outfeed table.

What doesn't?


What there is of it, works well.

What mistakes did you make?


Left out blade guards.

All that stuff...


Photos at http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Projects/CrosscutSled/

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

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Default Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled

On Jan 17, 1:41*am, -MIKE- wrote:
Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled.
It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners.

It slides nice and easy with no wiggle. I'm getting ready to put the
front and back cross pieces on and possible a blade guard. I'm also
pondering what to do as an adjustable miter gauge, clamps, etc.

So, show me yours.
What have you done that works well.
What doesn't?
What mistakes did you make?
All that stuff...

--

* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply


make sure it's square

shelly
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Default Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled

-MIKE- wrote:
Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled.
It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners.

It slides nice and easy with no wiggle. I'm getting ready to put the
front and back cross pieces on and possible a blade guard. I'm also
pondering what to do as an adjustable miter gauge, clamps, etc.


So, show me yours.


Mine is 1/2" virola ply, 1 1/4 white oak cross pieces and is used almost
entirely for trimming/cutting panels. Up to 38" wide by any length panels.
I have no blade guard; I have no clamps, don't need them; I use it only for
straight cuts so no miter gauge.
_____________

What have you done that works well.


The back cross piece is extendible so I can set a stop anywhere up to 48".

The back cross piece has sort of a box to house the blade when it gets
there; box has a transparent plastic top. There is also a sizeable, stout
oak handle on the back, angled a bit, directly above the cut line to push
the sled.
____________

What doesn't?
What mistakes did you make?


I wish I had made the cutoff side of the sled wider. It is about 4" now
which means if the cut off piece is 8" or more wide it flops down when cut
off. I'll fix that one of these days...


--

dadiOH
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Default Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled


"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled.
It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners.

It slides nice and easy with no wiggle. I'm getting ready to put the
front and back cross pieces on and possible a blade guard. I'm also
pondering what to do as an adjustable miter gauge, clamps, etc.

So, show me yours.
What have you done that works well.
What doesn't?
What mistakes did you make?
All that stuff...



Many years ago I built a sled that actually had the fence on the front side.
It was easier for me to mark the top of the board and line that mark up with
the leading fence end where the blade came through.

With the fence in the back your mark needs to be on the nottom front edge of
the board and you need to lean over far enough to see the alignmant of the
mark with the end of the bed of the sled where the blade came through.

Because I wanted more than a 90 degree cutting sled I bought a left and
right version of these sleds about 10 years ago. They still work very very
well. You can cut most any angle accurately and make repeated cuts
accurately.

http://www.in-lineindustries.com/double_dubby.html





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Default Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled

two things:

I glued a couple 5" disks of 220 sandpaper to the fence to cut down on any
lateral slip of the workpiece.

Before I attached the rear fence, I routed a shallow (1/4") recess and
screwed in a piece of ply. When it gets worn out, replace it. It's just a
replaceable zero clearance plate, but it works extremely well.


So, show me yours.
What have you done that works well.
What doesn't?
What mistakes did you make?
All that stuff...



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Default Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled

Morris Dovey wrote:
On 1/17/2010 12:41 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled.
It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners.

It slides nice and easy with no wiggle. I'm getting ready to put the
front and back cross pieces on and possible a blade guard. I'm also
pondering what to do as an adjustable miter gauge, clamps, etc.

So, show me yours.
What have you done that works well.


Cheap (made from scraps), Simple
Forward travel limited by stopped slots in outfeed table.

What doesn't?


What there is of it, works well.

What mistakes did you make?


Left out blade guards.

All that stuff...


Photos at http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Projects/CrosscutSled/

Oooooohhhhh - izat a Monkey-Wards RAS against the wall? I sure miss mine.
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Default Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled

On Jan 17, 10:00*am, "Joe" wrote:
two things:

I glued a couple 5" disks of 220 sandpaper to the fence to cut down on any
lateral slip of the workpiece.

Before I attached the rear fence, I routed a shallow (1/4") recess and
screwed in a piece of ply. *When it gets worn out, replace it.


Good idea! I will do that to mine. Thanks

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"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
On Jan 17, 10:00 am, "Joe" wrote:
two things:

I glued a couple 5" disks of 220 sandpaper to the fence to cut down on any
lateral slip of the workpiece.

Before I attached the rear fence, I routed a shallow (1/4") recess and
screwed in a piece of ply. When it gets worn out, replace it.


Good idea! I will do that to mine. Thanks

If memory serves (and it rarely does), it was about 3" x 3"




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Default Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled

On 1/17/2010 12:41 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled.
It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners.

It slides nice and easy with no wiggle. I'm getting ready to put the
front and back cross pieces on and possible a blade guard. I'm also
pondering what to do as an adjustable miter gauge, clamps, etc.

So, show me yours.
What have you done that works well.
What doesn't?
What mistakes did you make?
All that stuff...


The three I use the most:

http://e-woodshop.net/Jigs.htm

Table saw sleds, about the fourth item down.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)


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Default Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled

On Jan 16, 11:41*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled.
It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners.

It slides nice and easy with no wiggle. I'm getting ready to put the
front and back cross pieces on and possible a blade guard. I'm also
pondering what to do as an adjustable miter gauge, clamps, etc.

So, show me yours.
What have you done that works well.
What doesn't?
What mistakes did you make?
All that stuff...



http://lh6.ggpht.com/_WVVYjLCNo2w/Su...g_1_110209.JPG

The plex is probably a bit thin (IIRC, 0.093"). I have thicker stock,
but haven't replaced it.

Simple. Scrap. Free. Square. Works.

Johnson's Paste Wax on the bottom and on the runners.

I could surf Hawaii's North Shore on this bad boy....
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Default Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled

On 1/17/2010 9:25 AM, Doug Winterburn wrote:

Oooooohhhhh - izat a Monkey-Wards RAS against the wall? I sure miss mine.


Fill your tank and head for Iowa, then. It's a spare and you're welcome
to it.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

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On 1/17/10 1:09 AM, Morris Dovey wrote:
So, show me yours.
What have you done that works well.


Cheap (made from scraps), Simple
Forward travel limited by stopped slots in outfeed table.


Hadn't thought of stops. Thanks.


All that stuff...


Photos at http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Projects/CrosscutSled/


Simple and effective. SMO from you.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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--
http://mikedrums.com

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On 1/17/10 8:56 AM, Leon wrote:
Many years ago I built a sled that actually had the fence on the front side.
It was easier for me to mark the top of the board and line that mark up with
the leading fence end where the blade came through.


I think you mentioned that in another thread and I thought it was a
great idea, then and now.


http://www.in-lineindustries.com/double_dubby.html


I plan on doing something similar with the radius slot and clamp for
miters.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

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On 1/17/10 9:00 AM, Joe wrote:
two things:

I glued a couple 5" disks of 220 sandpaper to the fence to cut down on any
lateral slip of the workpiece.


I did that to the coping sled I made for the router table and it works
wonders.
I'd say it's a certain necessity for melamine.


Before I attached the rear fence, I routed a shallow (1/4") recess and
screwed in a piece of ply. When it gets worn out, replace it. It's just a
replaceable zero clearance plate, but it works extremely well.


Have any pics?


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply



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Default Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled

On 1/17/10 9:54 AM, Swingman wrote:
The three I use the most:

http://e-woodshop.net/Jigs.htm

Table saw sleds, about the fourth item down.


I like that 45-er.
Wish I had the space to make several.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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--
http://mikedrums.com

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On Jan 17, 1:41*am, -MIKE- wrote:
Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled.
It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners.

It slides nice and easy with no wiggle. I'm getting ready to put the
front and back cross pieces on and possible a blade guard. I'm also
pondering what to do as an adjustable miter gauge, clamps, etc.

So, show me yours.
What have you done that works well.
What doesn't?
What mistakes did you make?
All that stuff...

--

* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply


Make the fence adjustable to make squaring easier.

http://www.garagewoodworks.com/TS_Sled_Fence.php
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On Sun, 17 Jan 2010 00:41:37 -0600, -MIKE-
wrote:

Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled.


There was an article in FWW (?) years ago about squaring the fence (it
might have been "methods of work" or something simliar).

Once the sled is complete except for the back fence:

Attach the fence on one side with a screw so that it's free to swivel.
Then swivel it away from the assembly.

Attach a piece of 1/4" plywood to the left side of the table of the
sled, so that it extends an inch or so to the right of the blade. They
used screws through the bottom of the table of the sled, upward into
the ply.

Run the sled through the balde, and remove the plywood waste.

Use a good framing square, set up against the 1/4 plywood, and align
the back fence to the sqaure. Temporarily clamp/attach the back
fence, and run the sled through the blade again. Then make the usual
test cuts and check for square. Make the micro-asjustments, then
finalize the fence attachment and remove the plywood.

Seemed to work good.

-Zz
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"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
On 1/17/10 8:56 AM, Leon wrote:
Many years ago I built a sled that actually had the fence on the front
side.
It was easier for me to mark the top of the board and line that mark up
with
the leading fence end where the blade came through.


I think you mentioned that in another thread and I thought it was a great
idea, then and now.


http://www.in-lineindustries.com/double_dubby.html


I plan on doing something similar with the radius slot and clamp for
miters.



IIRC some one steered or sent me drawings to make a similar sled. I'll be
happy to see if I can find it and send it if you wish.




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On 1/17/10 3:38 PM, Leon wrote:
http://www.in-lineindustries.com/double_dubby.html


I plan on doing something similar with the radius slot and clamp for
miters.



IIRC some one steered or sent me drawings to make a similar sled. I'll be
happy to see if I can find it and send it if you wish.


I wouldn't argue with that. :-)

'preciate it.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

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Default Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled

So, show me yours.

It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners.


What have you done that works well.


Photos at http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Projects/CrosscutSled/
--
Morris Dovey


First, I think melamine is a mistake. You want the top side to be grippy,
not slippy. melamine also offers a low strenght to weight ratio. I used a
(full) 1/4" plywood product and tt has served me well. Not sure what it's
called but it's a 5 or 7-ply floor underlayment product that goes for a
about $20 for a 4x5 sheet. Sand an wax the bottom for "sliption"

My first couple were like Morris' but I found them too bulky for most use. I
still have a big one, but my the sled that I reach for for 95% of my
crosscutting need has the following properties:
* a single runner,
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200...Slider-24.aspx
* about 20 wide by 16 deep
* fence is a lamination of 3 layers of 3/4" cabinet-grade plywood scrap
(stable, free and consistent)
* fence has a "dust gap" cut in the bottom front edge.
This sled operates best with the fence in the back and the right edge flush
to the blade, but it can be used fence-forward to the right of the blade
when necessary.

Think multiples....one sled will not do it all (well).

-Steve


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Default Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled

Stephen

Any chance you could post a pic or two of your sled(s)?
Russ
"StephenM" wrote in message
...
So, show me yours.


It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners.


What have you done that works well.


Photos at http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Projects/CrosscutSled/
--
Morris Dovey


First, I think melamine is a mistake. You want the top side to be grippy,
not slippy. melamine also offers a low strenght to weight ratio. I used a
(full) 1/4" plywood product and tt has served me well. Not sure what it's
called but it's a 5 or 7-ply floor underlayment product that goes for a
about $20 for a 4x5 sheet. Sand an wax the bottom for "sliption"

My first couple were like Morris' but I found them too bulky for most use.
I still have a big one, but my the sled that I reach for for 95% of my
crosscutting need has the following properties:
* a single runner,
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200...Slider-24.aspx
* about 20 wide by 16 deep
* fence is a lamination of 3 layers of 3/4" cabinet-grade plywood scrap
(stable, free and consistent)
* fence has a "dust gap" cut in the bottom front edge.
This sled operates best with the fence in the back and the right edge
flush to the blade, but it can be used fence-forward to the right of the
blade when necessary.

Think multiples....one sled will not do it all (well).

-Steve


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On 1/20/10 7:22 AM, StephenM wrote:
First, I think melamine is a mistake. You want the top side to be grippy,
not slippy. melamine also offers a low strenght to weight ratio. I used a
(full) 1/4" plywood product and tt has served me well. Not sure what it's
called but it's a 5 or 7-ply floor underlayment product that goes for a
about $20 for a 4x5 sheet. Sand an wax the bottom for "sliption"


I hear you on the slippery of the melamine. I guess it's 6 for one and
a 1/2 dozen for the other. You wax the bottom of plywood and I use
stick-on sandpaper for the top of melamine. In other words, you start
with grip work for stick, and I'm vise versa.

As for strength, it's really a moot point in this application.


My first couple were like Morris' but I found them too bulky for most use. I
still have a big one, but my the sled that I reach for for 95% of my
crosscutting need has the following properties:
* a single runner,
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200...Slider-24.aspx


I bought that for the runner on my router table coping sled and I'm not
a fan. It works fine, but it's too difficult to hone in the width.
Next one I buy (if I do) will have the the little nubs that push out
from one side, like this one...
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21651

However, I already made my own out of hardwood and found them to be
superior to the factory made ones, and very easy to make from shop
scraps, which are "free."


* fence is a lamination of 3 layers of 3/4" cabinet-grade plywood scrap
(stable, free and consistent)


That's what I'm aiming at, right now. BTW, the melamine was "free," too.


* fence has a "dust gap" cut in the bottom front edge.
This sled operates best with the fence in the back and the right edge flush
to the blade, but it can be used fence-forward to the right of the blade
when necessary.

Think multiples....one sled will not do it all (well).

-Steve


Thanks for the input!


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

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I hear you on the slippery of the melamine. I guess it's 6 for one and a
1/2 dozen for the other. You wax the bottom of plywood and I use stick-on
sandpaper for the top of melamine. In other words, you start with grip
work for stick, and I'm vise versa.


OK

As for strength, it's really a moot point in this application.


My point was more about weight than anything else. My big sled probably
weighs in over 15 lbs ... it's just awkward. But, I'm all about "free" too.

However, I already made my own out of hardwood and found them to be
superior to the factory made ones, and very easy to make from shop scraps,
which are "free."


You either have better skills or better hardwood that I have. IME maple
works fine for dual runner sleds but it's either seasonally sticky or sloppy
in a single-runner application. Your milage apparenty varies.

Cheers,

Steve




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On 1/20/10 1:41 PM, StephenM wrote:

I hear you on the slippery of the melamine. I guess it's 6 for one and a
1/2 dozen for the other. You wax the bottom of plywood and I use stick-on
sandpaper for the top of melamine. In other words, you start with grip
work for stick, and I'm vise versa.


OK

As for strength, it's really a moot point in this application.


My point was more about weight than anything else. My big sled probably
weighs in over 15 lbs ... it's just awkward. But, I'm all about "free" too.


Understood. But I also like some mass to things like this. The weight
holds it down to the table. I like the mass on my tenoning jig, too. I
don't what it is... it just feels better to me to push something with
some mass. It's like it doesn't feel any different to push whether you
have a big or a little piece of stock in it.


However, I already made my own out of hardwood and found them to be
superior to the factory made ones, and very easy to make from shop scraps,
which are "free."


You either have better skills or better hardwood that I have. IME maple
works fine for dual runner sleds but it's either seasonally sticky or sloppy
in a single-runner application. Your milage apparenty varies.


I don't know about better skills. :-)
I had a long strip of poplar or hickory close to size. I ran it through
my planer until it was a good height, then again to get a perfect width.

And you're right, there seems to be more play with double runners. Even
though both runners fit perfectly, I'm prepared to deal with some
seasonal change, by employing something similar to this technique...
http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/tablesaw/make-an-adjustable-miter-bar/


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

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Any chance you could post a pic or two of your sled(s)?
Russ


Posted to ABPW.

Subj: "Yet another sled"


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On 17 Jan, 06:41, -MIKE- wrote:

So, show me yours.


Never use the things - too dangerous.

Mine (inspired by Kirby's "Accurate Table Saw" book) is a cross-cut
_box_, not a sled. This has tall walls front and back, so I can't get
my fingers any where near the nasty part. It's also stronger and more
rigid, as there's a tie-bar between them above the saw blade, which
also acts as a further guard. Yes, this does limit the height of what
I can fit into it, but then it's taller than the cut height anyway.

Using a box with walls and a tie bar above is also simpler to make
than a sled, as it makes it easier to connect the two side halves
together past the sawcut.

There's an enclosed box front and back to hide the saw blade, as it
emerges from the main cut area. There's an inch of spare wood here
too, just in case I slide it a bit too far.
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Thanks
Russ
"StephenM" wrote in message
...
Any chance you could post a pic or two of your sled(s)?
Russ


Posted to ABPW.

Subj: "Yet another sled"


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Default Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled

This is a great string of information. I need to build one of these
too and there is some great info here. Especially enjoyed Swingman's
page of ideas.

This is why this group is such a great resource. Thanks guys.

RonB


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Default Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled

On 1/21/10 7:29 AM, StephenM wrote:
Any chance you could post a pic or two of your sled(s)?
Russ


Posted to ABPW.

Subj: "Yet another sled"


Hate to be a PITA, but any chance you could post them on the web to any
number of the dozens of free picture sites.

Several of us use one of the following...

http://picasaweb.google.com
http://photobucket.com/
http://www.flickr.com/


--

-MIKE-

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Default Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled

On 1/21/10 8:46 AM, Andy Dingley wrote:
On 17 Jan, 06:41, wrote:

So, show me yours.


Never use the things - too dangerous.



Semantics. You built a sled with a lid.


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-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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--
http://mikedrums.com

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Default Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled

On Jan 21, 11:03*am, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/21/10 8:46 AM, Andy Dingley wrote:

On 17 Jan, 06:41, *wrote:


So, show me yours.


Never use the things - too dangerous.


Semantics. * You built a sled with a lid.


GREAT line from the TV show, "House:"

You anti-semantic ******* :-)
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-MIKE- wrote in -
september.org:

On 1/21/10 7:29 AM, StephenM wrote:
Any chance you could post a pic or two of your sled(s)?
Russ


Posted to ABPW.

Subj: "Yet another sled"


Hate to be a PITA, but any chance you could post them on the web to any
number of the dozens of free picture sites.

Several of us use one of the following...

http://picasaweb.google.com
http://photobucket.com/
http://www.flickr.com/



Take a look he
http://www.delorie.com/wood/abpw/

The guy who owns the site used to post here. I haven't seen a post from
him in quite a while, though.

Puckdropper
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Default Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled

This one from the WoodSmithShop is simple and neat.

http://tinyurl.com/ycf73f9


Lew





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Default Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled

I see one huge flaw in that design:

The stop has to be completely unthreaded and removed to accommodate a board
longer than the sled is wide. An F-clamp with a block arguably less fuss.

Maybe if the back corner of the stop block were radiused so that it could
rotate up and out of the way of 1-by stock it would be better.

-Steve

This one from the WoodSmithShop is simple and neat.

http://tinyurl.com/ycf73f9


Lew




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Default Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled

On Fri, 22 Jan 2010 07:27:22 -0800, Lew Hodgett wrote:

My guess is less than 5% of my cross cut pieces are more than 30" long.


But the other end needs to be squared before you cut it to 30"

--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
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On 1/22/10 1:51 AM, Puckdropper wrote:

Take a look he
http://www.delorie.com/wood/abpw/


Thanks. Used to have that bookmarked and lost it.... re-bookmarked.


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--
http://mikedrums.com

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On 1/22/10 10:32 AM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Fri, 22 Jan 2010 07:27:22 -0800, Lew Hodgett wrote:

My guess is less than 5% of my cross cut pieces are more than 30" long.


But the other end needs to be squared before you cut it to 30"


Rough cut with any saw to 30+"


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

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"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
On 1/22/10 10:32 AM, Larry Blanchard wrote:
On Fri, 22 Jan 2010 07:27:22 -0800, Lew Hodgett wrote:

My guess is less than 5% of my cross cut pieces are more than 30" long.


But the other end needs to be squared before you cut it to 30"


Rough cut with any saw to 30+"

By definition "rough" is not "square".

That said, a simple solution is to put a spacer board between the fence and
the workpiece to allow it to extend past the stop block.

I know this because I frequently set up my stop block and then realize that
I had not yet squared up my ends.

-Steve


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