Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled.
It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners.

It slides nice and easy with no wiggle. I'm getting ready to put the
front and back cross pieces on and possible a blade guard. I'm also
pondering what to do as an adjustable miter gauge, clamps, etc.

So, show me yours.
What have you done that works well.
What doesn't?
What mistakes did you make?
All that stuff...


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

On 1/17/2010 12:41 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled.
It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners.

It slides nice and easy with no wiggle. I'm getting ready to put the
front and back cross pieces on and possible a blade guard. I'm also
pondering what to do as an adjustable miter gauge, clamps, etc.

So, show me yours.
What have you done that works well.

Cheap (made from scraps), Simple
Forward travel limited by stopped slots in outfeed table.

What doesn't?

What there is of it, works well.

What mistakes did you make?

Left out blade guards.

All that stuff...

Photos at http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Projects/CrosscutSled/

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

On Jan 17, 1:41*am, -MIKE- wrote:
Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled.
It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners.

It slides nice and easy with no wiggle. I'm getting ready to put the
front and back cross pieces on and possible a blade guard. I'm also
pondering what to do as an adjustable miter gauge, clamps, etc.

So, show me yours.
What have you done that works well.
What doesn't?
What mistakes did you make?
All that stuff...

--

* -MIKE-

* "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
* * *--Elvin Jones *(1927-2004)
* --
*http://mikedrums.com
*
* ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

make sure it's square

shelly

-MIKE- wrote:
Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled.
It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners.

It slides nice and easy with no wiggle. I'm getting ready to put the
front and back cross pieces on and possible a blade guard. I'm also
pondering what to do as an adjustable miter gauge, clamps, etc.

So, show me yours.

Mine is 1/2" virola ply, 1 1/4 white oak cross pieces and is used almost
entirely for trimming/cutting panels. Up to 38" wide by any length panels.
I have no blade guard; I have no clamps, don't need them; I use it only for
straight cuts so no miter gauge.
_____________

What have you done that works well.

The back cross piece is extendible so I can set a stop anywhere up to 48".

The back cross piece has sort of a box to house the blade when it gets
there; box has a transparent plastic top. There is also a sizeable, stout
oak handle on the back, angled a bit, directly above the cut line to push
the sled.
____________

What doesn't?
What mistakes did you make?

I wish I had made the cutoff side of the sled wider. It is about 4" now
which means if the cut off piece is 8" or more wide it flops down when cut
off. I'll fix that one of these days...


--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled.
It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners.

It slides nice and easy with no wiggle. I'm getting ready to put the
front and back cross pieces on and possible a blade guard. I'm also
pondering what to do as an adjustable miter gauge, clamps, etc.

So, show me yours.
What have you done that works well.
What doesn't?
What mistakes did you make?
All that stuff...


Many years ago I built a sled that actually had the fence on the front side.
It was easier for me to mark the top of the board and line that mark up with
the leading fence end where the blade came through.

With the fence in the back your mark needs to be on the nottom front edge of
the board and you need to lean over far enough to see the alignmant of the
mark with the end of the bed of the sled where the blade came through.

Because I wanted more than a 90 degree cutting sled I bought a left and
right version of these sleds about 10 years ago. They still work very very
well. You can cut most any angle accurately and make repeated cuts
accurately.

http://www.in-lineindustries.com/double_dubby.html

two things:

I glued a couple 5" disks of 220 sandpaper to the fence to cut down on any
lateral slip of the workpiece.

Before I attached the rear fence, I routed a shallow (1/4") recess and
screwed in a piece of ply. When it gets worn out, replace it. It's just a
replaceable zero clearance plate, but it works extremely well.


So, show me yours.
What have you done that works well.
What doesn't?
What mistakes did you make?
All that stuff...

Morris Dovey wrote:
On 1/17/2010 12:41 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled.
It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners.

It slides nice and easy with no wiggle. I'm getting ready to put the
front and back cross pieces on and possible a blade guard. I'm also
pondering what to do as an adjustable miter gauge, clamps, etc.

So, show me yours.
What have you done that works well.

Cheap (made from scraps), Simple
Forward travel limited by stopped slots in outfeed table.

What doesn't?

What there is of it, works well.

What mistakes did you make?

Left out blade guards.

All that stuff...

Photos at http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Projects/CrosscutSled/

Oooooohhhhh - izat a Monkey-Wards RAS against the wall? I sure miss mine.

On Jan 17, 10:00*am, "Joe" wrote:
two things:

I glued a couple 5" disks of 220 sandpaper to the fence to cut down on any
lateral slip of the workpiece.

Before I attached the rear fence, I routed a shallow (1/4") recess and
screwed in a piece of ply. *When it gets worn out, replace it.


Good idea! I will do that to mine. Thanks

"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
On Jan 17, 10:00 am, "Joe" wrote:
two things:

I glued a couple 5" disks of 220 sandpaper to the fence to cut down on any
lateral slip of the workpiece.

Before I attached the rear fence, I routed a shallow (1/4") recess and
screwed in a piece of ply. When it gets worn out, replace it.


Good idea! I will do that to mine. Thanks

If memory serves (and it rarely does), it was about 3" x 3"

On 1/17/2010 12:41 AM, -MIKE- wrote:
Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled.
It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners.

It slides nice and easy with no wiggle. I'm getting ready to put the
front and back cross pieces on and possible a blade guard. I'm also
pondering what to do as an adjustable miter gauge, clamps, etc.

So, show me yours.
What have you done that works well.
What doesn't?
What mistakes did you make?
All that stuff...

The three I use the most:

http://e-woodshop.net/Jigs.htm

Table saw sleds, about the fourth item down.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/22/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)