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Default Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled

On 1/22/10 12:55 PM, StephenM wrote:
My guess is less than 5% of my cross cut pieces are more than 30" long.

But the other end needs to be squared before you cut it to 30"


Rough cut with any saw to 30+"

By definition "rough" is not "square".


Yeah, that exactly why I used the term.

You make a rough cut close to the finished size, then a final cut on the
sled.

Pretty much standard practice for large stock.


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Default Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled

On Jan 17, 12:14*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/17/10 1:09 AM, Morris Dovey wrote:

So, show me yours.
What have you done that works well.


Cheap (made from scraps), Simple
Forward travel limited by stopped slots in outfeed table.


Hadn't thought of stops. *Thanks.


Made a set of stop blocks that clamp into the saw table's
t-slots. Haven't found them all that useful with a sled.
Just keep your thumbs out of the blade's path. If you
accidentally nick your sled's aft blade guard cover, it's
not that big a deal.
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Default Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled

On Jan 20, 8:22*am, "StephenM" wrote:
So, show me yours.

It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners.
What have you done that works well.


Photos athttp://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Projects/CrosscutSled/
--
Morris Dovey


First, I think melamine is a mistake. You want the top side to be grippy,
not slippy. melamine also offers a low strenght to weight ratio. *I used a
(full) 1/4" plywood product and tt has served me well. Not sure what it's
called but it's a 5 or 7-ply floor underlayment product that goes for a
about $20 for a 4x5 sheet. Sand an wax the bottom for "sliption"


1/2" birch ply, finished with a ragged-on linseed oil / poly
varnish / paint thinner mix and waxed. I can slide parts
around very easily, but they stay in place with just a
slight downward push. Looks pretty, too.
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Default Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled

-MIKE- wrote in -
september.org:

On 1/22/10 1:51 AM, Puckdropper wrote:

Take a look he
http://www.delorie.com/wood/abpw/


Thanks. Used to have that bookmarked and lost it.... re-bookmarked.



Second result for "alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking" on Google. *wink*

Puckdropper
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Default Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled

On 1/22/10 5:34 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
wrote in -
september.org:

On 1/22/10 1:51 AM, Puckdropper wrote:

Take a look he
http://www.delorie.com/wood/abpw/


Thanks. Used to have that bookmarked and lost it.... re-bookmarked.



Second result for "alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking" on Google. *wink*

Puckdropper



Weird. 7th result, when I did it.


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply



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Default Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled

On 21 Jan, 18:03, -MIKE- wrote:

Never use the things (a sled, use a box) - too dangerous.


Semantics. *


That's how we communicate subtle differences. Like the difference
between a whole finger, and a hole in your finger.

You built a sled with a lid.


Strictly, "a sled with walls", but yes. However those walls are
important, but not always used. They're worth incorporating.
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Default Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled

On 1/25/10 6:31 AM, Andy Dingley wrote:
On 21 Jan, 18:03, wrote:

Never use the things (a sled, use a box) - too dangerous.


Semantics.


That's how we communicate subtle differences. Like the difference
between a whole finger, and a hole in your finger.


We don't communicate subtle difference by completely renaming a car an
automobile, and pretending the car is "too dangerous" because it doesn't
have anti-lock brakes like your "automobile."


You built a sled with a lid.


Strictly, "a sled with walls", but yes. However those walls are
important, but not always used. They're worth incorporating.


All the "sleds" I've seen have the front and back cross sections.
The "lid" I refer to is from where you wrote...
"as there's a tie-bar between them above the saw blade, which
also acts as a further guard. "


--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com

---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply

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Default Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled

On 25 Jan, 18:14, -MIKE- wrote:

The "lid" I refer to is from where you wrote...
"as there's a tie-bar between them above the saw blade, which
also acts as a further guard. "


So you infer "lid" from where I didn't write "lid".

The tie-bar is about an inch or so wide. It's vertically over the
blade. It's not a lid, and makes no attempt to keep fingers out of the
box. It's primarily there for structural reasons (my high-wall box is
far more stable than a low-wall sled), but it does also act as a guard
against long pieces of crossways timber dropping onto the blade, an
accident that's not implausible when cross-cutting.
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On Jan 26, 11:36*am, Andy Dingley wrote:
On 25 Jan, 18:14, -MIKE- wrote:

The "lid" I refer to is from where you wrote...
"as there's a tie-bar between them above the saw blade, which
also acts as a further guard. "


So you infer "lid" from where I didn't write "lid".

The tie-bar is about an inch or so wide. It's vertically over the
blade. It's not a lid, and makes no attempt to keep fingers out of the
box. It's primarily there for structural reasons (my high-wall box is
far more stable than a low-wall sled), but it does also act as a guard
against long pieces of crossways timber dropping onto the blade, an
accident that's not implausible when cross-cutting.


Mine uses a plastic box which rides in grooves on the
fore and aft fences, same as Kelly Mehler's design. I can
lift it out for working vertical pieces, such as when cutting
finger joints.

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"Leon" writes:

"-MIKE-" wrote in message
...
On 1/17/10 8:56 AM, Leon wrote:
Many years ago I built a sled that actually had the fence on the front
side.
It was easier for me to mark the top of the board and line that mark up
with
the leading fence end where the blade came through.


I think you mentioned that in another thread and I thought it was a great
idea, then and now.


http://www.in-lineindustries.com/double_dubby.html


I plan on doing something similar with the radius slot and clamp for
miters.



IIRC some one steered or sent me drawings to make a similar sled. I'll be
happy to see if I can find it and send it if you wish.


I am about to make a sled and would appreciate sample drawings if you
have them available... let me know what I need to do.
Thanks


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Andy Dingley writes:
On 17 Jan, 06:41, -MIKE- wrote:

So, show me yours.


Never use the things - too dangerous.

Mine (inspired by Kirby's "Accurate Table Saw" book) is a cross-cut
_box_, not a sled. This has tall walls front and back, so I can't get
my fingers any where near the nasty part. It's also stronger and more
rigid, as there's a tie-bar between them above the saw blade, which
also acts as a further guard. Yes, this does limit the height of what
I can fit into it, but then it's taller than the cut height anyway.

Using a box with walls and a tie bar above is also simpler to make
than a sled, as it makes it easier to connect the two side halves
together past the sawcut.

There's an enclosed box front and back to hide the saw blade, as it
emerges from the main cut area. There's an inch of spare wood here
too, just in case I slide it a bit too far.


Can you post a pic? Thanks
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Father Haskell writes:
On Jan 26, 11:36Â*am, Andy Dingley wrote:
On 25 Jan, 18:14, -MIKE- wrote:

The "lid" I refer to is from where you wrote...
"as there's a tie-bar between them above the saw blade, which
also acts as a further guard. "


So you infer "lid" from where I didn't write "lid".

The tie-bar is about an inch or so wide. It's vertically over the
blade. It's not a lid, and makes no attempt to keep fingers out of the
box. It's primarily there for structural reasons (my high-wall box is
far more stable than a low-wall sled), but it does also act as a guard
against long pieces of crossways timber dropping onto the blade, an
accident that's not implausible when cross-cutting.


Mine uses a plastic box which rides in grooves on the
fore and aft fences, same as Kelly Mehler's design. I can
lift it out for working vertical pieces, such as when cutting
finger joints.


can you post a pic?
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"dadiOH" writes:
-MIKE- wrote:
Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled.
It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners.

It slides nice and easy with no wiggle. I'm getting ready to put the
front and back cross pieces on and possible a blade guard. I'm also
pondering what to do as an adjustable miter gauge, clamps, etc.


So, show me yours.


Mine is 1/2" virola ply, 1 1/4 white oak cross pieces and is used almost
entirely for trimming/cutting panels. Up to 38" wide by any length panels.
I have no blade guard; I have no clamps, don't need them; I use it only for
straight cuts so no miter gauge.
_____________

What have you done that works well.


The back cross piece is extendible so I can set a stop anywhere up to 48".

The back cross piece has sort of a box to house the blade when it gets
there; box has a transparent plastic top. There is also a sizeable, stout
oak handle on the back, angled a bit, directly above the cut line to push
the sled.
____________

What doesn't?
What mistakes did you make?


I wish I had made the cutoff side of the sled wider. It is about 4" now
which means if the cut off piece is 8" or more wide it flops down when cut
off. I'll fix that one of these days...


Can you post a pic?
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Neil Brooks writes:
On Jan 16, 11:41Â*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled.
It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners.

It slides nice and easy with no wiggle. I'm getting ready to put the
front and back cross pieces on and possible a blade guard. I'm also
pondering what to do as an adjustable miter gauge, clamps, etc.

So, show me yours.
What have you done that works well.
What doesn't?
What mistakes did you make?
All that stuff...



http://lh6.ggpht.com/_WVVYjLCNo2w/Su...g_1_110209.JPG


I couldn't get the link to work - did you erase it?
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