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#41
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
On 1/22/10 12:55 PM, StephenM wrote:
My guess is less than 5% of my cross cut pieces are more than 30" long. But the other end needs to be squared before you cut it to 30" Rough cut with any saw to 30+" By definition "rough" is not "square". Yeah, that exactly why I used the term. You make a rough cut close to the finished size, then a final cut on the sled. Pretty much standard practice for large stock. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#42
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
On Jan 17, 12:14*pm, -MIKE- wrote:
On 1/17/10 1:09 AM, Morris Dovey wrote: So, show me yours. What have you done that works well. Cheap (made from scraps), Simple Forward travel limited by stopped slots in outfeed table. Hadn't thought of stops. *Thanks. Made a set of stop blocks that clamp into the saw table's t-slots. Haven't found them all that useful with a sled. Just keep your thumbs out of the blade's path. If you accidentally nick your sled's aft blade guard cover, it's not that big a deal. |
#43
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
On Jan 20, 8:22*am, "StephenM" wrote:
So, show me yours. It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners. What have you done that works well. Photos athttp://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/Projects/CrosscutSled/ -- Morris Dovey First, I think melamine is a mistake. You want the top side to be grippy, not slippy. melamine also offers a low strenght to weight ratio. *I used a (full) 1/4" plywood product and tt has served me well. Not sure what it's called but it's a 5 or 7-ply floor underlayment product that goes for a about $20 for a 4x5 sheet. Sand an wax the bottom for "sliption" 1/2" birch ply, finished with a ragged-on linseed oil / poly varnish / paint thinner mix and waxed. I can slide parts around very easily, but they stay in place with just a slight downward push. Looks pretty, too. |
#44
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
-MIKE- wrote in -
september.org: On 1/22/10 1:51 AM, Puckdropper wrote: Take a look he http://www.delorie.com/wood/abpw/ Thanks. Used to have that bookmarked and lost it.... re-bookmarked. Second result for "alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking" on Google. *wink* Puckdropper |
#45
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
On 1/22/10 5:34 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
wrote in - september.org: On 1/22/10 1:51 AM, Puckdropper wrote: Take a look he http://www.delorie.com/wood/abpw/ Thanks. Used to have that bookmarked and lost it.... re-bookmarked. Second result for "alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking" on Google. *wink* Puckdropper Weird. 7th result, when I did it. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#46
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
On 21 Jan, 18:03, -MIKE- wrote:
Never use the things (a sled, use a box) - too dangerous. Semantics. * That's how we communicate subtle differences. Like the difference between a whole finger, and a hole in your finger. You built a sled with a lid. Strictly, "a sled with walls", but yes. However those walls are important, but not always used. They're worth incorporating. |
#47
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
On 1/25/10 6:31 AM, Andy Dingley wrote:
On 21 Jan, 18:03, wrote: Never use the things (a sled, use a box) - too dangerous. Semantics. That's how we communicate subtle differences. Like the difference between a whole finger, and a hole in your finger. We don't communicate subtle difference by completely renaming a car an automobile, and pretending the car is "too dangerous" because it doesn't have anti-lock brakes like your "automobile." You built a sled with a lid. Strictly, "a sled with walls", but yes. However those walls are important, but not always used. They're worth incorporating. All the "sleds" I've seen have the front and back cross sections. The "lid" I refer to is from where you wrote... "as there's a tie-bar between them above the saw blade, which also acts as a further guard. " -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#48
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
On 25 Jan, 18:14, -MIKE- wrote:
The "lid" I refer to is from where you wrote... "as there's a tie-bar between them above the saw blade, which also acts as a further guard. " So you infer "lid" from where I didn't write "lid". The tie-bar is about an inch or so wide. It's vertically over the blade. It's not a lid, and makes no attempt to keep fingers out of the box. It's primarily there for structural reasons (my high-wall box is far more stable than a low-wall sled), but it does also act as a guard against long pieces of crossways timber dropping onto the blade, an accident that's not implausible when cross-cutting. |
#49
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
On Jan 26, 11:36*am, Andy Dingley wrote:
On 25 Jan, 18:14, -MIKE- wrote: The "lid" I refer to is from where you wrote... "as there's a tie-bar between them above the saw blade, which also acts as a further guard. " So you infer "lid" from where I didn't write "lid". The tie-bar is about an inch or so wide. It's vertically over the blade. It's not a lid, and makes no attempt to keep fingers out of the box. It's primarily there for structural reasons (my high-wall box is far more stable than a low-wall sled), but it does also act as a guard against long pieces of crossways timber dropping onto the blade, an accident that's not implausible when cross-cutting. Mine uses a plastic box which rides in grooves on the fore and aft fences, same as Kelly Mehler's design. I can lift it out for working vertical pieces, such as when cutting finger joints. |
#50
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
"Leon" writes:
"-MIKE-" wrote in message ... On 1/17/10 8:56 AM, Leon wrote: Many years ago I built a sled that actually had the fence on the front side. It was easier for me to mark the top of the board and line that mark up with the leading fence end where the blade came through. I think you mentioned that in another thread and I thought it was a great idea, then and now. http://www.in-lineindustries.com/double_dubby.html I plan on doing something similar with the radius slot and clamp for miters. IIRC some one steered or sent me drawings to make a similar sled. I'll be happy to see if I can find it and send it if you wish. I am about to make a sled and would appreciate sample drawings if you have them available... let me know what I need to do. Thanks |
#51
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
Andy Dingley writes:
On 17 Jan, 06:41, -MIKE- wrote: So, show me yours. Never use the things - too dangerous. Mine (inspired by Kirby's "Accurate Table Saw" book) is a cross-cut _box_, not a sled. This has tall walls front and back, so I can't get my fingers any where near the nasty part. It's also stronger and more rigid, as there's a tie-bar between them above the saw blade, which also acts as a further guard. Yes, this does limit the height of what I can fit into it, but then it's taller than the cut height anyway. Using a box with walls and a tie bar above is also simpler to make than a sled, as it makes it easier to connect the two side halves together past the sawcut. There's an enclosed box front and back to hide the saw blade, as it emerges from the main cut area. There's an inch of spare wood here too, just in case I slide it a bit too far. Can you post a pic? Thanks |
#52
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
Father Haskell writes:
On Jan 26, 11:36Â*am, Andy Dingley wrote: On 25 Jan, 18:14, -MIKE- wrote: The "lid" I refer to is from where you wrote... "as there's a tie-bar between them above the saw blade, which also acts as a further guard. " So you infer "lid" from where I didn't write "lid". The tie-bar is about an inch or so wide. It's vertically over the blade. It's not a lid, and makes no attempt to keep fingers out of the box. It's primarily there for structural reasons (my high-wall box is far more stable than a low-wall sled), but it does also act as a guard against long pieces of crossways timber dropping onto the blade, an accident that's not implausible when cross-cutting. Mine uses a plastic box which rides in grooves on the fore and aft fences, same as Kelly Mehler's design. I can lift it out for working vertical pieces, such as when cutting finger joints. can you post a pic? |
#53
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
"dadiOH" writes:
-MIKE- wrote: Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled. It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners. It slides nice and easy with no wiggle. I'm getting ready to put the front and back cross pieces on and possible a blade guard. I'm also pondering what to do as an adjustable miter gauge, clamps, etc. So, show me yours. Mine is 1/2" virola ply, 1 1/4 white oak cross pieces and is used almost entirely for trimming/cutting panels. Up to 38" wide by any length panels. I have no blade guard; I have no clamps, don't need them; I use it only for straight cuts so no miter gauge. _____________ What have you done that works well. The back cross piece is extendible so I can set a stop anywhere up to 48". The back cross piece has sort of a box to house the blade when it gets there; box has a transparent plastic top. There is also a sizeable, stout oak handle on the back, angled a bit, directly above the cut line to push the sled. ____________ What doesn't? What mistakes did you make? I wish I had made the cutoff side of the sled wider. It is about 4" now which means if the cut off piece is 8" or more wide it flops down when cut off. I'll fix that one of these days... Can you post a pic? |
#54
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Show Me Your TS Cross Cut Sled
Neil Brooks writes:
On Jan 16, 11:41Â*pm, -MIKE- wrote: Alrighty... I started on my cross cut sled. It's a sheet of 1/2 melamine about 2x3' with two runners. It slides nice and easy with no wiggle. I'm getting ready to put the front and back cross pieces on and possible a blade guard. I'm also pondering what to do as an adjustable miter gauge, clamps, etc. So, show me yours. What have you done that works well. What doesn't? What mistakes did you make? All that stuff... http://lh6.ggpht.com/_WVVYjLCNo2w/Su...g_1_110209.JPG I couldn't get the link to work - did you erase it? |
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