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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
Just brought in my latest woodworking project. (Still smells like some of
the alcohol in the shellac is evaporating.) Before taking it apart to finish it, I marked some parts and not others. As a result, some of the parts are fitting nicely and others aren't. So when building something be sure to mark everything before you take it apart. Puckdropper |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
On Dec 6, 9:15*pm, Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:
Just brought in my latest woodworking project. *(Still smells like some of the alcohol in the shellac is evaporating.) *Before taking it apart to finish it, I marked some parts and not others. *As a result, some of the parts are fitting nicely and others aren't. So when building something be sure to mark everything before you take it apart. Puckdropper As I am finishing an entertainment center, I know what you mean. All of the drawer trim, shelf trim, and top trim is in a different finish. The last I counted, it was at 92 pieces and most are cut to fit. Not fun when you forgot to mark any of the shelf trim. I think it would be faster to just redo it. Allen |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
Subject
A box of blackboard chalk is your friend in the shop. Lew |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
On Dec 8, 1:37*pm, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
Subject A box of blackboard chalk is your friend in the shop. Lew I actually still use a pencil. The drawer trim I could mark on the underside with a drawer number and location and the top trim I could mark the location on the underside as well. The shelf trim is seen on three sides and I was going to mark it on the back with a shelf number and location, but my memory faded and I gathered everything up and put it away. Then I went "Doh". I spent today getting at least 2 of the 5 shelves sorted out. It took me less time to cut them all out the first time around......Oh well Allen |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
allen476 wrote in news:0f22d2ce-cc34-4c9a-aecf-
: On Dec 8, 1:37*pm, "Lew Hodgett" wrote: Subject A box of blackboard chalk is your friend in the shop. Lew I actually still use a pencil. *snip* Allen Blackboard chalk would seem to wash off quite easily, not good if you want to keep the marks after finishing. Incidentally, ink pen ink and permanent marker also washes off easily with certain finishes. Good ol' pencil is a cheap & effective way to go. Puckdropper |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
On 07 Dec 2009 02:15:17 GMT, Puckdropper
puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote: Just brought in my latest woodworking project. (Still smells like some of the alcohol in the shellac is evaporating.) Before taking it apart to finish it, I marked some parts and not others. As a result, some of the parts are fitting nicely and others aren't. So when building something be sure to mark everything before you take it apart. No point. It's well documented that at least one part will always change dimensions as soon as glue is applied to it. No one quite understands how. -Kevin |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
"Puckdropper" wrote:
Blackboard chalk would seem to wash off quite easily, not good if you want to keep the marks after finishing. Precisely why I use chalk. Good for temporary marks such as witness marks for glue-ups or assemblies, marking the side of a board you do not want to plane, sand, etc. Permanent marking is a whole different ball of wax. Lew |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
"Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message ... Good ol' pencil is a cheap & effective way to go. Puckdropper One of the things I indulged myself with, when I had a shop, was an electric pencil sharpener and a box containing a gross of #2 pencils from Office Depot. Here in the desert, my little workbench still sports an electric pencil sharpener and I have a drawer with pencils and unlined paper as well. -- Nonny ELOQUIDIOT (n) A highly educated, sophisticated, and articulate person who has absolutely no clue concerning what they are talking about. The person is typically a media commentator or politician. |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
"Kevin" wrote in message ... On 07 Dec 2009 02:15:17 GMT, Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote: Just brought in my latest woodworking project. (Still smells like some of the alcohol in the shellac is evaporating.) Before taking it apart to finish it, I marked some parts and not others. As a result, some of the parts are fitting nicely and others aren't. So when building something be sure to mark everything before you take it apart. No point. It's well documented that at least one part will always change dimensions as soon as glue is applied to it. No one quite understands how. that was what I was thinking. I never disassemble a project to finish it unless the parts are attached with hinges or slides. I may pre stain or finish panels in a door panel prior to glue up however. |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
wrote:
allen476 wrote in news:0f22d2ce-cc34-4c9a-aecf- : On Dec 8, 1:37�pm, "Lew Hodgett" wrote: Subject A box of blackboard chalk is your friend in the shop. Lew I actually still use a pencil. *snip* Allen Blackboard chalk would seem to wash off quite easily, not good if you want to keep the marks after finishing. Incidentally, ink pen ink and permanent marker also washes off easily with certain finishes. Where possible, I mark parts where they won't be seen -- on the tenons or the ends. On the edges of floating panels, etc. Most parts usually have some edge covered by something else or in a non-visible area. Good ol' pencil is a cheap & effective way to go. Puckdropper -- There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage Rob Leatham |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
On Wed, 9 Dec 2009 11:47:53 -0800, the infamous "Nonny"
scrawled the following: "Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message . .. Good ol' pencil is a cheap & effective way to go. Puckdropper One of the things I indulged myself with, when I had a shop, was an electric pencil sharpener and a box containing a gross of #2 pencils from Office Depot. Here in the desert, my little workbench still sports an electric pencil sharpener and I have a drawer with pencils and unlined paper as well. I'm an old-school Neander with a manual pencil sharpener mounted on the wall inside the shop door. And I learned early never to buy a gross of pencils. Erasers become calcified and petrify before the -first- dozen is used up, so I get a box every year at the back-to-school price of five cents. -- To know what you prefer instead of humbly saying Amen to what the world tells you you ought to prefer, is to have kept your soul alive. -- Robert Louis Stevenson |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message ... Snip And I learned early never to buy a gross of pencils. Erasers become calcified and petrify before the -first- dozen is used up, so I get a box every year at the back-to-school price of five cents. I was reading a bout a better grade pencil that touted that it had genuine natural rubber for the eraser IIRC. Is there a difference in longetivity that you know of? I recall using a white plastic eraser while I was taking drafting classes. |
#13
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
Leon wrote:
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message ... Snip And I learned early never to buy a gross of pencils. Erasers become calcified and petrify before the -first- dozen is used up, so I get a box every year at the back-to-school price of five cents. I was reading a bout a better grade pencil that touted that it had genuine natural rubber for the eraser IIRC. Is there a difference in longetivity that you know of? I recall using a white plastic eraser while I was taking drafting classes. The white ones are the good ones, at least in the sense that they erase thoroughly, don't chew up the paper too much, and don't seem to rot. |
#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
"Leon" wrote: I was reading a bout a better grade pencil that touted that it had genuine natural rubber for the eraser IIRC. Is there a difference in longetivity that you know of? I recall using a white plastic eraser while I was taking drafting classes. Quality pencils don't have erasers, that's why electric or even manual erasers exist. Your choice of eraser material including pink pearl, white plastic or ink. Available from any decent drafting supply house. Add an erasing shield and you are good to go. Lew |
#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Leon" wrote: I was reading a bout a better grade pencil that touted that it had genuine natural rubber for the eraser IIRC. Is there a difference in longetivity that you know of? I recall using a white plastic eraser while I was taking drafting classes. Quality pencils don't have erasers, that's why electric or even manual erasers exist. Your choice of eraser material including pink pearl, white plastic or ink. Available from any decent drafting supply house. Add an erasing shield and you are good to go. OMG! This is soooo retro, dude!! -- www.e-woodshop.net Last update: 10/22/08 KarlC@ (the obvious) |
#16
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
"Larry Jaques" wrote in message ... On Wed, 9 Dec 2009 11:47:53 -0800, the infamous "Nonny" scrawled the following: "Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message .. . Good ol' pencil is a cheap & effective way to go. Puckdropper One of the things I indulged myself with, when I had a shop, was an electric pencil sharpener and a box containing a gross of #2 pencils from Office Depot. Here in the desert, my little workbench still sports an electric pencil sharpener and I have a drawer with pencils and unlined paper as well. I'm an old-school Neander with a manual pencil sharpener mounted on the wall inside the shop door. I'm better than you, Larry. When my voltage drops below 95vac in the shop, I just gnaw the wood off my pencils to sharpen them even MORE Neander than you. grin And I learned early never to buy a gross of pencils. Erasers become calcified and petrify before the -first- dozen is used up, so I get a box every year at the back-to-school price of five cents. Oh. . . you make mistakes and need an eraser????? I get mine without, since I never make mistakes. grin -- Nonny ELOQUIDIOT (n) A highly educated, sophisticated, and articulate person who has absolutely no clue concerning what they are talking about. The person is typically a media commentator or politician. |
#17
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message ... "Larry Jaques" wrote: And I learned early never to buy a gross of pencils. Erasers become calcified and petrify before the -first- dozen is used up, so I get a box every year at the back-to-school price of five cents. ------------------------------- Erasers? What's an ERASER? In a shop, it's an old piece of 120grit garnet paper. -- Nonny ELOQUIDIOT (n) A highly educated, sophisticated, and articulate person who has absolutely no clue concerning what they are talking about. The person is typically a media commentator or politician. |
#18
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message ... "Leon" wrote: I was reading a bout a better grade pencil that touted that it had genuine natural rubber for the eraser IIRC. Is there a difference in longetivity that you know of? I recall using a white plastic eraser while I was taking drafting classes. Quality pencils don't have erasers, that's why electric or even manual erasers exist. Your choice of eraser material including pink pearl, white plastic or ink. Available from any decent drafting supply house. Add an erasing shield and you are good to go. Also, be sure to wear goggles. grin -- Nonny ELOQUIDIOT (n) A highly educated, sophisticated, and articulate person who has absolutely no clue concerning what they are talking about. The person is typically a media commentator or politician. |
#19
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
On Thu, 10 Dec 2009 09:33:33 -0800, the infamous "Lew Hodgett"
scrawled the following: "Larry Jaques" wrote: And I learned early never to buy a gross of pencils. Erasers become calcified and petrify before the -first- dozen is used up, so I get a box every year at the back-to-school price of five cents. ------------------------------- Erasers? What's an ERASER? Sorry, Lew. I forgot that there were some people out there who have never made a mistake. Please accept my sincere regrets for my fox ****. -- Don't forget the 7 P's: Proper Prior Planning Prevents ****-Poor Performance |
#20
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
On Thu, 10 Dec 2009 12:12:12 -0600, the infamous "Leon"
scrawled the following: "Larry Jaques" wrote in message .. . Snip And I learned early never to buy a gross of pencils. Erasers become calcified and petrify before the -first- dozen is used up, so I get a box every year at the back-to-school price of five cents. I was reading a bout a better grade pencil that touted that it had genuine natural rubber for the eraser IIRC. Is there a difference in longetivity that you know of? I recall using a white plastic eraser while I was taking drafting classes. Nah, I'm just a wannabe pencil connasewer, mon. Yeah, soft green or white erasers rock. Who knows what they're made of. -- Don't forget the 7 P's: Proper Prior Planning Prevents ****-Poor Performance |
#21
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
Larry Jaques" wrote:
Sorry, Lew. I forgot that there were some people out there who have never made a mistake. Please accept my sincere regrets for my fox ****. --------------------------- For a minute there, I thought you forgot. Lew |
#22
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
"Leon" wrote in message ... "Larry Jaques" wrote in message ... Snip And I learned early never to buy a gross of pencils. Erasers become calcified and petrify before the -first- dozen is used up, so I get a box every year at the back-to-school price of five cents. I was reading a bout a better grade pencil that touted that it had genuine natural rubber for the eraser IIRC. Is there a difference in longetivity that you know of? I recall using a white plastic eraser while I was taking drafting classes. White plastic is still the best. You can get them in a pen type thing that fits well in an apron pocket. At work, my upper apron pocket always contains two scales, a pen, mechanical pencil and an eraser. |
#23
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message ... wrote: Drafting supplies are located one aisle over from buggy whips, towards the back of the store. ------------------------------------------- Sounds like you live in a drafting supply house challenged area. Have one within 5 miles of the front door. Same here though I haven't used anything but CAD in years. |
#24
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
CW wrote:
"Leon" wrote in message ... "Larry Jaques" wrote in message ... Snip And I learned early never to buy a gross of pencils. Erasers become calcified and petrify before the -first- dozen is used up, so I get a box every year at the back-to-school price of five cents. I was reading a bout a better grade pencil that touted that it had genuine natural rubber for the eraser IIRC. Is there a difference in longetivity that you know of? I recall using a white plastic eraser while I was taking drafting classes. White plastic is still the best. You can get them in a pen type thing that fits well in an apron pocket. At work, my upper apron pocket always contains two scales, a pen, mechanical pencil and an eraser. And Staedtler has a nice little battery powered electric that you can get at Staples for 10 bucks. |
#25
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
On Dec 6, 9:15*pm, Puckdropper puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote:
" be sure to mark everything before you take it apart. Puckdropper And, let me add "Before you cut the parts" as well. I was reminded of this lesson AFTER cutting the rabbet for the shelving backer on the 68 inch tall sides and had to make new parts. Fortunately it was a shop storage cabinet |
#26
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
On Thu, 10 Dec 2009 15:08:58 -0800, the infamous "Nonny"
scrawled the following: "Larry Jaques" wrote in message .. . On Wed, 9 Dec 2009 11:47:53 -0800, the infamous "Nonny" scrawled the following: "Puckdropper" puckdropper(at)yahoo(dot)com wrote in message . .. Good ol' pencil is a cheap & effective way to go. Puckdropper One of the things I indulged myself with, when I had a shop, was an electric pencil sharpener and a box containing a gross of #2 pencils from Office Depot. Here in the desert, my little workbench still sports an electric pencil sharpener and I have a drawer with pencils and unlined paper as well. I'm an old-school Neander with a manual pencil sharpener mounted on the wall inside the shop door. I'm better than you, Larry. When my voltage drops below 95vac in the shop, I just gnaw the wood off my pencils to sharpen them even MORE Neander than you. grin Yeah, well I ain't got no lead mouth, neither. So there! And I learned early never to buy a gross of pencils. Erasers become calcified and petrify before the -first- dozen is used up, so I get a box every year at the back-to-school price of five cents. Oh. . . you make mistakes and need an eraser????? I get mine without, since I never make mistakes. grin WE ARE NOT WORTHY! WE ARE NOT WORTHY! WE ARE NOT WORTHY! bow, scrape, gag -- Don't forget the 7 P's: Proper Prior Planning Prevents ****-Poor Performance |
#27
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
J. Clarke wrote:
Artists use computers for some purposes but Corel Painter is still a poor substitute for oils and canvas. Ever got to play with Kai Krauss's Painter? Has a selection of virtual brushes of real world painter's brushes - sable, fan, oil, watercolor, stencil even pinstriping brush which behave very much like the real thing once you get the hang of it. AND you can do things with virtual mediums which you CAN NOT do with real world mediums - like combining the characteristics of water color and oil paint. Combine the many features of this app with the fact that you can save things along the way and UNDO mistakes - and there's much to be said for working with digital mediums. |
#28
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Tip: Mark all parts before disassembly
On Fri, 11 Dec 2009 17:39:14 -0800, the infamous charlie b
scrawled the following: J. Clarke wrote: Artists use computers for some purposes but Corel Painter is still a poor substitute for oils and canvas. Ever got to play with Kai Krauss's Painter? Has a selection of virtual brushes of real world painter's brushes - sable, fan, oil, watercolor, stencil even pinstriping brush which behave very much like the real thing once you get the hang of it. AND you can do things with virtual mediums which you CAN NOT do with real world mediums - like combining the characteristics of water color and oil paint. Combine the many features of this app with the fact that you can save things along the way and UNDO mistakes - and there's much to be said for working with digital mediums. I got (and played with) Expression, then got Painter and never really did anything with it, being steered by client requests. 'Twas fun to toy with, though. -- Don't forget the 7 P's: Proper Prior Planning Prevents ****-Poor Performance |
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