I'm adding some active electronics into a solid body electric guitar and I
need to route a hole into the guitar into which I will put a battery box. I
purchased a battery box and template from Stewart Mac, and I have both a
Dremel with router bits and router base, and a Ryobi router. I'm not
experienced with using routers, but I've tried making some test cuts in
scrap wood and they're not coming out very well. My main problem is staying
within the template lines. My first problem is how to use the template.
It's plexiglass, and I know I can't try and route inside the template
because as soon as the router bit hits the plexiglass, it will damage it, so
I've just been using the template to draw the shape onto the scrap wood and
then trying to route within the lines - not very easy. The other option is
to put some kind of bushing or bearing on the router shank and let that hit
the template sides, but that only works once you've got the hole deep enough
to where the router bit is past the template. I'm thinking there's some
easy way to do this that I'm missing. Any help would be appreciated. Here's
what the template looks like:
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Ro..._Template.html

Thanks,
Ed B.

"Ed B." wrote in message


then trying to route within the lines - not very easy. The other option is
to put some kind of bushing or bearing on the router shank and let that
hit
the template sides, but that only works once you've got the hole deep
enough
to where the router bit is past the template.

Almost, but not quite ... You need to use a "router bushing" that screws
into the router base plate with the teimplate.

Porter Cable's are generally standard, but be sure to find the ones that fit
your router's base plate.

Not recommending the following, just something to give you an idea of what
you're missing:


http://www.rickswoodshopcreations.co...ccessories.htm


--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 2/28/04

Ed,

Sounds like you're not using a collar on the router. The collar, not the
router bit, follows (rubs against) the template. As the links shows, use
double-back carpet tape to hold the template in-place while you route out
the hole.

Bob S.


"Ed B." wrote in message
...
I'm adding some active electronics into a solid body electric guitar and I
need to route a hole into the guitar into which I will put a battery box.
I
purchased a battery box and template from Stewart Mac, and I have both a
Dremel with router bits and router base, and a Ryobi router. I'm not
experienced with using routers, but I've tried making some test cuts in
scrap wood and they're not coming out very well. My main problem is
staying
within the template lines. My first problem is how to use the template.
It's plexiglass, and I know I can't try and route inside the template
because as soon as the router bit hits the plexiglass, it will damage it,
so
I've just been using the template to draw the shape onto the scrap wood
and
then trying to route within the lines - not very easy. The other option is
to put some kind of bushing or bearing on the router shank and let that
hit
the template sides, but that only works once you've got the hole deep
enough
to where the router bit is past the template. I'm thinking there's some
easy way to do this that I'm missing. Any help would be appreciated.
Here's
what the template looks like:

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Ro..._Template.html

Thanks,
Ed B.

Forgot to include an example for you to look at how this works. Did a quick
search for "router collar" and this was the first of hundreds.....

http://www.ucc-udb.com/C21-C27pdf.PDF

A good source would be Lee Valley www.leevalley.com or Pat Warner
www.patwarner.com or many other places like Rockler, Highland Hardware
etc., etc....

Bob S.

In article , "Ed B." wrote:
I'm adding some active electronics into a solid body electric guitar and I
need to route a hole into the guitar ... [snip] The other option is
to put some kind of bushing or bearing on the router shank and let that hit
the template sides, but that only works once you've got the hole deep enough
to where the router bit is past the template. I'm thinking there's some
easy way to do this that I'm missing.

You're almost there, but not quite. You need three things:
1) a guide bushing that attaches to the router base,
2) a router bit that's the same diameter as the bushing, and
3) a starter hole in the middle of the area to be routed out.

Extend the router bit to the full depth of the cut. Drill a starter hole
*larger* than the router bit by at least 1/8", the larger the better. Place
the bit in the starter hole before starting the router. Then enlarge the
starter hole to the full width and length of the template by nibbling away at
the wood around it, until the guide bushing rubs against the template.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

For a copy of my TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter,
send email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com

Of course, if the template is designed to be used with a template bit, the
bushing will leave the routed hole too small by the distance between the bit
and the outside of the bushing. Check with Stew-Mac about this, and get a
template guided bit, if needed. It will route to the same dimensions as the
template.

Kevin
"Doug Miller" wrote in message
om...
In article , "Ed B."
wrote:
I'm adding some active electronics into a solid body electric guitar and
I
need to route a hole into the guitar ... [snip] The other option is
to put some kind of bushing or bearing on the router shank and let that
hit
the template sides, but that only works once you've got the hole deep
enough
to where the router bit is past the template. I'm thinking there's some
easy way to do this that I'm missing.

You're almost there, but not quite. You need three things:
1) a guide bushing that attaches to the router base,
2) a router bit that's the same diameter as the bushing, and
3) a starter hole in the middle of the area to be routed out.

Extend the router bit to the full depth of the cut. Drill a starter hole
*larger* than the router bit by at least 1/8", the larger the better.
Place
the bit in the starter hole before starting the router. Then enlarge the
starter hole to the full width and length of the template by nibbling away
at
the wood around it, until the guide bushing rubs against the template.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

For a copy of my TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter,
send email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com

good ole stewie mac. if you are simply screwing a plate over the hole (i.e.
not making a recess or a lip so the plate is flush with the back of the
guitar) when you are done the hole doesnt need to be that pretty.. you
should see one of my guitars g

but other than that, i think the solution has been well covered already.

randy

"Ed B." wrote in message
...
I'm adding some active electronics into a solid body electric guitar and I
need to route a hole into the guitar into which I will put a battery box.
I
purchased a battery box and template from Stewart Mac, and I have both a
Dremel with router bits and router base, and a Ryobi router. I'm not
experienced with using routers, but I've tried making some test cuts in
scrap wood and they're not coming out very well. My main problem is
staying
within the template lines. My first problem is how to use the template.
It's plexiglass, and I know I can't try and route inside the template
because as soon as the router bit hits the plexiglass, it will damage it,
so
I've just been using the template to draw the shape onto the scrap wood
and
then trying to route within the lines - not very easy. The other option is
to put some kind of bushing or bearing on the router shank and let that
hit
the template sides, but that only works once you've got the hole deep
enough
to where the router bit is past the template. I'm thinking there's some
easy way to do this that I'm missing. Any help would be appreciated.
Here's
what the template looks like:

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Ro..._Template.html

Thanks,
Ed B.

In article , "Kevin Singleton" wrote:
Of course, if the template is designed to be used with a template bit, the
bushing will leave the routed hole too small by the distance between the bit
and the outside of the bushing.

Which is why I said he needs
" 2) a router bit that's the same diameter as the bushing"
so that the routed hole will be the same size as the template.

Check with Stew-Mac about this, and get a
template guided bit, if needed. It will route to the same dimensions as the
template.

That works only if the cutting length of the bit is no greater than the
required depth of the hole. What if he needs a hole that's only 3/4" deep, for
example, and the bit has a 1" cutting length?

Kevin
"Doug Miller" wrote in message
. com...
In article , "Ed B."
wrote:
I'm adding some active electronics into a solid body electric guitar and
I
need to route a hole into the guitar ... [snip] The other option is
to put some kind of bushing or bearing on the router shank and let that
hit
the template sides, but that only works once you've got the hole deep
enough
to where the router bit is past the template. I'm thinking there's some
easy way to do this that I'm missing.

You're almost there, but not quite. You need three things:
1) a guide bushing that attaches to the router base,
2) a router bit that's the same diameter as the bushing, and
3) a starter hole in the middle of the area to be routed out.

Extend the router bit to the full depth of the cut. Drill a starter hole
*larger* than the router bit by at least 1/8", the larger the better.
Place
the bit in the starter hole before starting the router. Then enlarge the
starter hole to the full width and length of the template by nibbling away
at
the wood around it, until the guide bushing rubs against the template.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

For a copy of my TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter,
send email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com





--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

For a copy of my TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter,
send email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com

Doug Miller wrote:

That works only if the cutting length of the bit is no greater than
the
required depth of the hole. What if he needs a hole that's only 3/4"
deep, for
example, and the bit has a 1" cutting length?

Make the template thicker by clamping scrap to the top?

-- Mark

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
m...
Which is why I said he needs
" 2) a router bit that's the same diameter as the bushing"
so that the routed hole will be the same size as the template.

That works only if the cutting length of the bit is no greater than the
required depth of the hole. What if he needs a hole that's only 3/4" deep,
for
example, and the bit has a 1" cutting length?


A router bit that's the same diameter as the bushing won't go through the
bushing, and presents exactly the same limitations as the template bit, of
course. And, since the template is 1/4" thick plexi (as is mine, which is
exactly the same as his), it would work perfectly, as I suggested.

Thanks for playing, Doug.

Kevin

In article , "Kevin Singleton" wrote:

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
om...
Which is why I said he needs
" 2) a router bit that's the same diameter as the bushing"
so that the routed hole will be the same size as the template.

That works only if the cutting length of the bit is no greater than the
required depth of the hole. What if he needs a hole that's only 3/4" deep,
for
example, and the bit has a 1" cutting length?


A router bit that's the same diameter as the bushing won't go through the
bushing,

Gee, and all this time that I *thought* I was using a 1/2" diameter dovetail
bit on my Leigh jig with a 7/16" OD bushing in the router, I guess really I
was just imagining the whole thing.

The bit is inserted from the bottom, and it doesn't matter at all what
diameter the cutter is relative to the bushing -- the *shank* of the bit is
the only part that needs to pass through the bushing.

and presents exactly the same limitations as the template bit, of
course.

You did get *that* part right, though.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

For a copy of my TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter,
send email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com

Thanks, Doug. Your recommendation is obviously far superior to mine.

Kevin
"Doug Miller" wrote in message
om...
In article , "Kevin Singleton"
wrote:

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
om...
Which is why I said he needs
" 2) a router bit that's the same diameter as the bushing"
so that the routed hole will be the same size as the template.

That works only if the cutting length of the bit is no greater than the
required depth of the hole. What if he needs a hole that's only 3/4"
deep,
for
example, and the bit has a 1" cutting length?


A router bit that's the same diameter as the bushing won't go through the
bushing,

Gee, and all this time that I *thought* I was using a 1/2" diameter
dovetail
bit on my Leigh jig with a 7/16" OD bushing in the router, I guess really
I
was just imagining the whole thing.

The bit is inserted from the bottom, and it doesn't matter at all what
diameter the cutter is relative to the bushing -- the *shank* of the bit
is
the only part that needs to pass through the bushing.

and presents exactly the same limitations as the template bit, of
course.

You did get *that* part right, though.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

For a copy of my TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter,
send email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com

In article , "Kevin Singleton" wrote:
Thanks, Doug. Your recommendation is obviously far superior to mine.

I apologize -- I hadn't thought it all the way through. I cancelled my post,
but obviously not soon enough. You are right, of course.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

For a copy of my TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter,
send email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com

"xrongor" wrote in message news:4H82c.469844$I06.5284441@attbi_s01...
good ole stewie mac. if you are simply screwing a plate over the hole (i.e.
not making a recess or a lip so the plate is flush with the back of the
guitar) when you are done the hole doesnt need to be that pretty.. you
should see one of my guitars g

but other than that, i think the solution has been well covered already.

randy

"Ed B." wrote in message
...
I'm adding some active electronics into a solid body electric guitar and I
need to route a hole into the guitar into which I will put a battery box.
I
purchased a battery box and template from Stewart Mac, and I have both a
Dremel with router bits and router base, and a Ryobi router. I'm not
experienced with using routers, but I've tried making some test cuts in
scrap wood and they're not coming out very well. My main problem is
staying
within the template lines. My first problem is how to use the template.
It's plexiglass, and I know I can't try and route inside the template
because as soon as the router bit hits the plexiglass, it will damage it,
so
I've just been using the template to draw the shape onto the scrap wood
and
then trying to route within the lines - not very easy. The other option is
to put some kind of bushing or bearing on the router shank and let that
hit
the template sides, but that only works once you've got the hole deep
enough
to where the router bit is past the template. I'm thinking there's some
easy way to do this that I'm missing. Any help would be appreciated.
Here's
what the template looks like:

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Ro..._Template.html

Thanks,
Ed B.





My rule when doing work that has to look pretty is to try and use hand
tools whenever possible. It gives me the luxury of making my mistakes
slowly.

I would seriously consider using a brace and bit with a depth stop to
remove most of the material then clean up and remove the remaining
material with a mallet and chisel.

No - the template he is talking about is not oversized for a collar. He needs
a pattern following bit with a bearing.

JK



Bob S. wrote:
Ed,

Sounds like you're not using a collar on the router. The collar, not the
router bit, follows (rubs against) the template. As the links shows, use
double-back carpet tape to hold the template in-place while you route out
the hole.

Bob S.


"Ed B." wrote in message
...

I'm adding some active electronics into a solid body electric guitar and I
need to route a hole into the guitar into which I will put a battery box.

I

purchased a battery box and template from Stewart Mac, and I have both a
Dremel with router bits and router base, and a Ryobi router. I'm not
experienced with using routers, but I've tried making some test cuts in
scrap wood and they're not coming out very well. My main problem is

staying

within the template lines. My first problem is how to use the template.
It's plexiglass, and I know I can't try and route inside the template
because as soon as the router bit hits the plexiglass, it will damage it,

so

I've just been using the template to draw the shape onto the scrap wood

and

then trying to route within the lines - not very easy. The other option is
to put some kind of bushing or bearing on the router shank and let that

hit

the template sides, but that only works once you've got the hole deep

enough

to where the router bit is past the template. I'm thinking there's some
easy way to do this that I'm missing. Any help would be appreciated.

Here's

what the template looks like:


http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Ro..._Template.html

Thanks,
Ed B.








--
James T. Kirby
Center for Applied Coastal Research
University of Delaware
Newark, DE 19716

phone: 302-831-2438
fax: 302-831-1228
email:
http://chinacat.coastal.udel.edu/~kirby

If you think about it, he needs both. Unless he is gong to rout full depth
in one pass, the pattern bit would be adjusted high enough for the bearing
to miss the template, a limitation the guide bushing does not have. After
the rough cuts with the guide and a strait bit, the pattern bit will clean
it up. If it was me, I would remove most of the stock with hand tools and
finish with the pattern bit.


"James T. Kirby" wrote in message
...
No - the template he is talking about is not oversized for a collar. He
needs
a pattern following bit with a bearing.

Let's just hope he posts pictures and tells us how he did it, eh?

Kevin
"Doug Miller" wrote in message
om...

I apologize -- I hadn't thought it all the way through. I cancelled my
post,
but obviously not soon enough. You are right, of course.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

For a copy of my TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter,
send email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com

Well, since I plan on installing these battery boxes in a number of guitars,
I decided to try two different methods and see which works best. Using some
scrap wood, I first tried using a bit with a bearing on the shank, I believe
this is what people have been referring to as pattern bits. Stewart Mac had
the bits with the bearings and some plastic tubing that you put on the shank
above the bearing to keep it from riding up. The double sided tape worked
well for fastening the template, but my main problem here is that the
bearing is higher than the top of the template when I make the first few
cuts, so I put shims under the template and that worked well, except that I
had to switch shims a second time to shorter ones to keep the bearing on the
template. The results looked good, but this was just on scrap, I haven't
tried it on the guitar yet.

Then I went to Lowes and bought a Vermont American router base plate and
bushing set for $15.00. It took me a while to find it because the guy in
their tool department had never heard of router guide bushings. This set
was supposed to be universal and fit most routers. Well, I had nothing but
trouble getting it to fit on my Ryobi Plunge Router. First the bushing that
fit my router bit was really long so I had to cut it down with a Dremel
tool. Then the baseplate and bushing wouldn't fit on the bottom of my
router properly. I wound up having to enlarge some holes in the baseplate,
and I never was able to get the router bit to fit right in the middle of the
bushing. It would always rub against it or cut into it when I tried to
plunge the router down. I probably spent a couple hours trying to get
things to line up, but I think the bottom line is, that base plate isn't
designed to fit my brand of router.

I will be cutting a battery box in the first guitar tonight using the first
method with the shims. I also got a Forstner bit at Home Depot so I can cut
out most of the material first with that. I'm also going to try to cut a lip
around the hole so that the battery box fits in flush when it's all done.
I'll take some digital photos and can post them if anyone wants to see what
it turns out looking like.

Thanks,
Ed B.


"Kevin Singleton" wrote in message
...
Let's just hope he posts pictures and tells us how he did it, eh?

Kevin
"Doug Miller" wrote in message
om...

I apologize -- I hadn't thought it all the way through. I cancelled my
post,
but obviously not soon enough. You are right, of course.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

For a copy of my TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter,
send email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com

Ed,

If you have a plunge router, you can plunge into the middle of the waste
area with the template bit, and route out most of the material in
ever-deepening cuts, without approaching the template. Once you have most
of the material removed to full depth, and the bearing is low enough to
properly contact the template, you can then remove the outer portions of the
waste material all the way to the template.

Good luck. I'd like to see the pics, when you get them.

Kevin
"Ed B." wrote in message
...
Well, since I plan on installing these battery boxes in a number of
guitars,
I decided to try two different methods and see which works best. Using
some
scrap wood, I first tried using a bit with a bearing on the shank, I
believe
this is what people have been referring to as pattern bits. Stewart Mac
had
the bits with the bearings and some plastic tubing that you put on the
shank
above the bearing to keep it from riding up. The double sided tape worked
well for fastening the template, but my main problem here is that the
bearing is higher than the top of the template when I make the first few
cuts, so I put shims under the template and that worked well, except that
I
had to switch shims a second time to shorter ones to keep the bearing on
the
template. The results looked good, but this was just on scrap, I haven't
tried it on the guitar yet.

Then I went to Lowes and bought a Vermont American router base plate and
bushing set for $15.00. It took me a while to find it because the guy in
their tool department had never heard of router guide bushings. This set
was supposed to be universal and fit most routers. Well, I had nothing
but
trouble getting it to fit on my Ryobi Plunge Router. First the bushing
that
fit my router bit was really long so I had to cut it down with a Dremel
tool. Then the baseplate and bushing wouldn't fit on the bottom of my
router properly. I wound up having to enlarge some holes in the baseplate,
and I never was able to get the router bit to fit right in the middle of
the
bushing. It would always rub against it or cut into it when I tried to
plunge the router down. I probably spent a couple hours trying to get
things to line up, but I think the bottom line is, that base plate isn't
designed to fit my brand of router.

I will be cutting a battery box in the first guitar tonight using the
first
method with the shims. I also got a Forstner bit at Home Depot so I can
cut
out most of the material first with that. I'm also going to try to cut a
lip
around the hole so that the battery box fits in flush when it's all done.
I'll take some digital photos and can post them if anyone wants to see
what
it turns out looking like.

Thanks,
Ed B.


"Kevin Singleton" wrote in message
...
Let's just hope he posts pictures and tells us how he did it, eh?

Kevin
"Doug Miller" wrote in message
om...

I apologize -- I hadn't thought it all the way through. I cancelled my
post,
but obviously not soon enough. You are right, of course.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)

For a copy of my TrollFilter for NewsProxy/Nfilter,
send email to autoresponder at filterinfo-at-milmac-dot-com