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#1
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Plumber's tape needed?
On Jul 7, 10:15*pm, "Upscale" wrote:
I've just picked up a new portable compressor, hose and an array of fittings ~ all connections will be brass to brass. Do I need plumber's tape for these fittings or should I be fine with just the brass to brass? I was wondering what others have done? Thanks. Oh yeah...teflon tape definately...actually makes tightening them a bit smoother, also helps makes the connection air tight. |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Plumber's tape needed?
"Upscale" wrote:
I've just picked up a new portable compressor, hose and an array of fittings ~ all connections will be brass to brass. Do I need plumber's tape for these fittings or should I be fine with just the brass to brass? If you are referring to teflon tape, avoid it like the plague. You want teflon paste. Yes, you want to seal the thread connections. Lew |
#3
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Plumber's tape needed?
On Tue, 7 Jul 2009 21:15:08 -0500, "Upscale"
wrote: Do I need plumber's tape for these fittings or should I be fine with just the brass to brass? I was wondering what others have done? Contrary to Lew's experience, I get better results wrt leakfree joints using the tape than I do with the paste. YMMV, but some sort of sealant should be used. Tom Veatch Wichita, KS USA |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Plumber's tape needed?
In article , "Upscale" wrote:
I've just picked up a new portable compressor, hose and an array of fittings ~ all connections will be brass to brass. Do I need plumber's tape for these fittings or should I be fine with just the brass to brass? I was wondering what others have done? Well, you need *some* kind of pipe dope in there, if you think you'll ever want to take the joint apart a few years down the road. Some folks will tell you never to use teflon tape with compressed air, but I've never had a problem. Just make sure you apply the tape to the male threads only, and keep it on the threads -- don't get any into the air passages. |
#5
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Plumber's tape needed?
"Tom Veatch" wrote:
Contrary to Lew's experience, I get better results wrt leakfree joints using the tape than I do with the paste. YMMV, but some sort of sealant should be used. You NEVER want to use Teflon tape on combustion plumbing. Sooner or later, bits of the tape will break free and end up plugging the combustion orifices. A principle of mine was paid in excess of $10,000 for a service call to a refinery for a piece of combustion equipment they had sold that the refinery installed. Emergency travel, weekend service rates, car rentals, etc, etc, all to discover a plugged orifice from Teflon tape. It was rookie mistake by a refinery worker. Less than 15 minutes to solve the problem, but still had a $10,000 invoice to pay. Lew |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Plumber's tape needed?
I've just picked up a new portable compressor, hose and an array of fittings
~ all connections will be brass to brass. Do I need plumber's tape for these fittings or should I be fine with just the brass to brass? I was wondering what others have done? Thanks. |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Plumber's tape needed?
On Wed, 08 Jul 2009 02:13:47 GMT, "Lew Hodgett"
wrote: You NEVER want to use Teflon tape on combustion plumbing. I certainly can't fault your advice other than to mention that combustion plumbing is a little outside the scope of the OP's question. Which, if I read correctly, involves plumbing for compressed air. Tom Veatch Wichita, KS USA |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Plumber's tape needed?
On Jul 7, 7:15*pm, "Upscale" wrote:
I've just picked up a new portable compressor, hose and an array of fittings ~ all connections will be brass to brass. Do I need plumber's tape for these fittings or should I be fine with just the brass to brass? I was wondering what others have done? I think you need some kind of sealant. I have used teflon tape on mine. Interesting discussion here http://www.homerepairforum.com/forum...d-sealant.html Luigi |
#9
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Plumber's tape needed?
I always put a dab of dope in the female part, and wrap the male part
with tape STARTING at about the 2nd. or 3rd. thread back from the end. Keeps the tape out of the system, and those first couple of threads don't do much anyway on tapered pipe fittings. Upscale wrote: I've just picked up a new portable compressor, hose and an array of fittings ~ all connections will be brass to brass. Do I need plumber's tape for these fittings or should I be fine with just the brass to brass? I was wondering what others have done? Thanks. |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Plumber's tape needed?
Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Upscale" wrote: I've just picked up a new portable compressor, hose and an array of fittings ~ all connections will be brass to brass. Do I need plumber's tape for these fittings or should I be fine with just the brass to brass? If you are referring to teflon tape, avoid it like the plague. You want teflon paste. Yes, you want to seal the thread connections. Lew I've successfully used teflon tape on a gazillion brass, plated-brass and steel compressed gas fittings, from a couple of hundred psi all the way up to several thousand. It can cause problems when it is improperly applied, e.g. bits of it are carried into the system. But anything can cause problems when it is improperly applied. I wouldn't hesitate to use teflon tape on compressor fittings. |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Plumber's tape needed?
"Tom Veatch" wrote:
I certainly can't fault your advice other than to mention that combustion plumbing is a little outside the scope of the OP's question. Which, if I read correctly, involves plumbing for compressed air. A mater of standardization. If you are going to need Teflon paste for some possible applications, why not use it for all? Can't be cost, a bottle of Teflon paste is only a couple of bucks. And unless you are a pipe fitter or a plumber, a small bottle is probably a multi year supply. Lew |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Plumber's tape needed?
Lew Hodgett wrote:
"Tom Veatch" wrote: Contrary to Lew's experience, I get better results wrt leakfree joints using the tape than I do with the paste. YMMV, but some sort of sealant should be used. You NEVER want to use Teflon tape on combustion plumbing. Sooner or later, bits of the tape will break free and end up plugging the combustion orifices. A principle of mine was paid in excess of $10,000 for a service call to a refinery for a piece of combustion equipment they had sold that the refinery installed. Emergency travel, weekend service rates, car rentals, etc, etc, all to discover a plugged orifice from Teflon tape. It was rookie mistake by a refinery worker. Less than 15 minutes to solve the problem, but still had a $10,000 invoice to pay. FWIW, there is tape that is code for gas piping. It's a bit heavier than that used for water piping, presumably to address the breaking free and plugging orifices issue. Lew |
#13
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Plumber's tape needed?
In article , =?ISO-8859-1?Q?=22=3C=3C=3C=5F=5F_B=F8b_=5F=5F=3E=3E=3E=22?=
wrote: I always put a dab of dope in the female part, Not recommended. Every bottle of pipe dope I've ever seen says to apply to male threads only -- that's to keep the dope on the threads, and out of the opening. |
#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Plumber's tape needed?
"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message ... "Tom Veatch" wrote: I certainly can't fault your advice other than to mention that combustion plumbing is a little outside the scope of the OP's question. Which, if I read correctly, involves plumbing for compressed air. A mater of standardization. If you are going to need Teflon paste for some possible applications, why not use it for all? For starters, it is messy compared to Teflon tape. IIRC it stays messy and does not completely dry. |
#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Plumber's tape needed?
"J. Clarke" wrote in message ... FWIW, there is tape that is code for gas piping. It's a bit heavier than that used for water piping, presumably to address the breaking free and plugging orifices issue. That tape is yellow colored. |
#16
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Plumber's tape needed?
"Doug Miller" wrote in message news In article , "Upscale" wrote: I've just picked up a new portable compressor, hose and an array of fittings ~ all connections will be brass to brass. Do I need plumber's tape for these fittings or should I be fine with just the brass to brass? I was wondering what others have done? Well, you need *some* kind of pipe dope in there, if you think you'll ever want to take the joint apart a few years down the road. Some folks will tell you never to use teflon tape with compressed air, but I've never had a problem. Just make sure you apply the tape to the male threads only, and keep it on the threads -- don't get any into the air passages. Just curious, have you seen any one apply tape to the female threads??? |
#17
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Plumber's tape needed?
"Upscale" wrote in message ... I've just picked up a new portable compressor, hose and an array of fittings ~ all connections will be brass to brass. Do I need plumber's tape for these fittings or should I be fine with just the brass to brass? I was wondering what others have done? Thanks. I use the "gas" rated Teflon tape. It is thicker and easier to deal with, and it is identified by it's yellow color. |
#18
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Plumber's tape needed?
On 2009-07-08, Leon wrote:
For starters, it is messy compared to Teflon tape. IIRC it stays messy and does not completely dry. ......which means it's easily removed with a wire brush. The same can't be said of tape. nb |
#19
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Plumber's tape needed?
In article , "Leon" wrote:
"Doug Miller" wrote in message news In article , "Upscale" wrote: I've just picked up a new portable compressor, hose and an array of fittings ~ all connections will be brass to brass. Do I need plumber's tape for these fittings or should I be fine with just the brass to brass? I was wondering what others have done? Well, you need *some* kind of pipe dope in there, if you think you'll ever want to take the joint apart a few years down the road. Some folks will tell you never to use teflon tape with compressed air, but I've never had a problem. Just make sure you apply the tape to the male threads only, and keep it on the threads -- don't get any into the air passages. Just curious, have you seen any one apply tape to the female threads??? LOL -- I meant, as opposed to getting it on any other parts of the male fitting. But I guess I didn't make that too clear, did I? |
#20
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Plumber's tape needed?
In article , Jack Stein wrote:
Upscale wrote: I've just picked up a new portable compressor, hose and an array of fittings ~ all connections will be brass to brass. Do I need plumber's tape for these fittings or should I be fine with just the brass to brass? I was wondering what others have done? I don't see any need for tape or dope on compression fittings. Compressed air fittings are not the same as compression fittings. Non-compression fittings need tape or dope regardless of what they are made of? Tape or dope should be used for all fittings for ease of proper assembly. The joint won't seal unless it's tight, and the tape or dope reduces friction, making it easier to get the joint tight. And it's pretty much mandatory for anything that might be disassembled later. |
#21
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Plumber's tape needed?
Upscale wrote:
I've just picked up a new portable compressor, hose and an array of fittings ~ all connections will be brass to brass. Do I need plumber's tape for these fittings or should I be fine with just the brass to brass? I was wondering what others have done? I don't see any need for tape or dope on compression fittings. Non-compression fittings need tape or dope regardless of what they are made of? I'm not a plumber though, but thats my take. -- Jack Using FREE News Server: http://www.eternal-september.org/ http://jbstein.com |
#22
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Plumber's tape needed?
"Doug Miller" wrote in message ... In article , "Leon" wrote: LOL -- I meant, as opposed to getting it on any other parts of the male fitting. But I guess I didn't make that too clear, did I? I got a kick out of that. I was picturing the process of pushing the tape into the threads with out pulling it out. LOL |
#23
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Plumber's tape needed?
"Upscale" wrote in message ... Do you know if the yellow version tape will do double duty on regular plumbing fixtures? ~ not a money thing, just a convenience if it will work. yes |
#24
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Plumber's tape needed?
On Jul 8, 10:31*am, notbob wrote:
On 2009-07-08, Leon wrote: For starters, it is messy compared to Teflon tape. *IIRC it stays messy and does not completely dry. .....which means it's easily removed with a wire brush. *The same can't be said of tape. Tape is easily removed, usually, without a wire brush. Just unwrap it. |
#25
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Plumber's tape needed?
"Leon" wrote in message I use the "gas" rated Teflon tape. It is thicker and easier to deal with, and it is identified by it's yellow color. Ok, that's enough information for me. I've used Teflon tape on plumbing joints before, so I'll pick up some of the yellow version. Just for interest's sake, I bought the Dewalt D55141 compressor you told me about. Haven't run it yet because I was waiting for an order of hose and fittings to come in which just did. I'll pick up the tape this weekend and let you know how loud this 85db compressor sounds compared to the old one that I'm giving to a friend. Do you know if the yellow version tape will do double duty on regular plumbing fixtures? ~ not a money thing, just a convenience if it will work. |
#26
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Plumber's tape needed?
"Upscale" writes:
I've just picked up a new portable compressor, hose and an array of fittings ~ all connections will be brass to brass. Do I need plumber's tape for these fittings or should I be fine with just the brass to brass? I was wondering what others have done? Thanks. Ah, you mean Teflon tape. Plumbers tape (for us old farts) refers to the metal strapping used to hang pipe. Teflon tape or dope never hurts (well, for NatGas, use tape/dope designed for the purpose (yellow tape)). scott |
#27
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Plumber's tape needed?
"charlie" writes:
"Upscale" wrote in message .. . Do you know if the yellow version tape will do double duty on regular plumbing fixtures? ~ not a money thing, just a convenience if it will work. yes IIRC, the purpose of the tape is to force the threads together more tightly. scott |
#28
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Plumber's tape needed?
Scott Lurndal wrote:
.... IIRC, the purpose of the tape is to force the threads together more tightly. How would possibly physically do that being so soft as compared to metal? What it does is simply fill voids as does pipe dope in a more convenient form factor... -- |
#29
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Plumber's tape needed?
"Upscale" wrote in message ... "Leon" wrote in message I use the "gas" rated Teflon tape. It is thicker and easier to deal with, and it is identified by it's yellow color. Ok, that's enough information for me. I've used Teflon tape on plumbing joints before, so I'll pick up some of the yellow version. Just for interest's sake, I bought the Dewalt D55141 compressor you told me about. Haven't run it yet because I was waiting for an order of hose and fittings to come in which just did. I'll pick up the tape this weekend and let you know how loud this 85db compressor sounds compared to the old one that I'm giving to a friend. Do you know if the yellow version tape will do double duty on regular plumbing fixtures? ~ not a money thing, just a convenience if it will work. Yes, it works on regular plumbing, it is thicker and takes less. |
#30
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Plumber's tape needed?
"dpb" wrote in message ... Scott Lurndal wrote: ... IIRC, the purpose of the tape is to force the threads together more tightly. How would possibly physically do that being so soft as compared to metal? it acts to reduce friction, thus allowing more torque to be applied to the joint, thus allowing it to be tighter. What it does is simply fill voids as does pipe dope in a more convenient form factor... -- it does that too. |
#31
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Plumber's tape needed?
Leon wrote:
"Doug Miller" wrote in message news In article , "Upscale" wrote: I've just picked up a new portable compressor, hose and an array of fittings ~ all connections will be brass to brass. Do I need plumber's tape for these fittings or should I be fine with just the brass to brass? I was wondering what others have done? Well, you need *some* kind of pipe dope in there, if you think you'll ever want to take the joint apart a few years down the road. Some folks will tell you never to use teflon tape with compressed air, but I've never had a problem. Just make sure you apply the tape to the male threads only, and keep it on the threads -- don't get any into the air passages. Just curious, have you seen any one apply tape to the female threads??? I think I've got a tool for that from HF. |
#32
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Plumber's tape needed?
charlie wrote:
"dpb" wrote in message ... Scott Lurndal wrote: ... IIRC, the purpose of the tape is to force the threads together more tightly. How would possibly physically do that being so soft as compared to metal? it acts to reduce friction, thus allowing more torque to be applied to the joint, thus allowing it to be tighter. That's certainly secondary unless old, rusty threads and still not the actual design purpose... What it does is simply fill voids as does pipe dope in a more convenient form factor... .... it does that too. That's the primary function and mode of operation... -- |
#33
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Plumber's tape needed?
dpb writes:
Scott Lurndal wrote: ... IIRC, the purpose of the tape is to force the threads together more tightly. How would possibly physically do that being so soft as compared to metal? What it does is simply fill voids as does pipe dope in a more convenient form factor... -- Memory confirmed by Wikipedia: One of the defining characteristics of PTFE is how good it is at defeating friction. The use of PTFE tape in tapered pipe threads performs a lubricating function, which more easily allows the threads to be screwed together, to the point of deformation, which is what creates the majority, if not all, of the seal. scott |
#34
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Plumber's tape needed?
"Leon" writes:
"Upscale" wrote in message .. . "Leon" wrote in message I use the "gas" rated Teflon tape. It is thicker and easier to deal with, and it is identified by it's yellow color. Ok, that's enough information for me. I've used Teflon tape on plumbing joints before, so I'll pick up some of the yellow version. Just for interest's sake, I bought the Dewalt D55141 compressor you told me about. Haven't run it yet because I was waiting for an order of hose and fittings to come in which just did. I'll pick up the tape this weekend and let you know how loud this 85db compressor sounds compared to the old one that I'm giving to a friend. Do you know if the yellow version tape will do double duty on regular plumbing fixtures? ~ not a money thing, just a convenience if it will work. Yes, it works on regular plumbing, it is thicker and takes less. Found this on-line: TEFLON TAPE: When PTFE (Teflon) tape first became available they only made it in the common single density type, which we commonly find in the hardware and home supply stores. Later they began making a double density version, which was twice as thick. Many state and local codes then adopted the double density type as mandatory when making connections for natural gas however since both products were the same color (white) it was difficult for inspectors to be sure which product had been used. PTFE tape is now made in numerous varieties and they have issued a color standard to determine which type should be used. WHITE-Single density- should only be used on NPT threads up to 3/8 inch. YELLOW- Double Density- yellow double density is often labeled as "Gas type" RED-Triple Density: (Note-the container is red but the tape itself appears as a pale pink color). Presently required on all joints ½" diameter or greater. GREEN- Oil Free PTFE tape- Required for use on all lines conveying oxygen (I.E. medical oxygen or welding oxygen lines). COPPER COLOR- contains granules of copper and is to be used as a thread lubricant but is not approved as a thread sealant. (Generally it is used as a thread lubricant on bolts or pipe threads for mechanical applications where no physical seal is required.) PTFE tape is only approved as a thread seal when applied correctly. To apply you begin at the end of the pipe and wrap the tape under tension in the direction of the thread turns. Each successive layer should overlap the previous layer by ½ to 2/3 and continue wrapping until the entire threaded portion of the pipe is covered. (Minimum of 3 full turns). |
#35
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Plumber's tape needed?
On Jul 8, 3:03*pm, " wrote:
Leon wrote: "Doug Miller" wrote in message news In article , "Upscale" wrote: I've just picked up a new portable compressor, hose and an array of fittings ~ all connections will be brass to brass. Do I need plumber's tape for these fittings or should I be fine with just the brass to brass? I was wondering what others have done? Well, you need *some* kind of pipe dope in there, if you think you'll ever want to take the joint apart a few years down the road. Some folks will tell you never to use teflon tape with compressed air, but I've never had a problem. Just make sure you apply the tape to the male threads only, and keep it on the threads -- don't get any into the air passages. Just curious, have you seen any one apply tape to the female threads??? I think I've got a tool for that from HF. It's called a "male pipe thread". |
#36
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Plumber's tape needed?
"Scott Lurndal" wrote in message . .. Found this on-line: TEFLON TAPE: When PTFE (Teflon) tape first became available they only made it in the common single density type, which we commonly find in the hardware and home supply stores. Later they began making a double density version, which was twice as thick. Many state and local codes then adopted the double density type as mandatory when making connections for natural gas however since both products were the same color (white) it was difficult for inspectors to be sure which product had been used. PTFE tape is now made in numerous varieties and they have issued a color standard to determine which type should be used. WHITE-Single density- should only be used on NPT threads up to 3/8 inch. Actually I have found the White in at least 2 densitys. I have seen some that is so thin that it is difficult to work with, like plastic wrap used for food storage. I now buy Yellow so that I do not have to wonder if I am getting the thicker easier to manage White tape or the very thin stuff. The thin Teflon tape is usually packaged with products like new water faucets. YELLOW- Double Density- yellow double density is often labeled as "Gas type" RED-Triple Density: (Note-the container is red but the tape itself appears as a pale pink color). Presently required on all joints ½" diameter or greater. GREEN- Oil Free PTFE tape- Required for use on all lines conveying oxygen (I.E. medical oxygen or welding oxygen lines). COPPER COLOR- contains granules of copper and is to be used as a thread lubricant but is not approved as a thread sealant. (Generally it is used as a thread lubricant on bolts or pipe threads for mechanical applications where no physical seal is required.) PTFE tape is only approved as a thread seal when applied correctly. To apply you begin at the end of the pipe and wrap the tape under tension in the direction of the thread turns. Each successive layer should overlap the previous layer by ½ to 2/3 and continue wrapping until the entire threaded portion of the pipe is covered. (Minimum of 3 full turns). |
#37
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Plumber's tape needed?
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#38
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Plumber's tape needed?
"Upscale" wrote in message
... "Leon" wrote in message I use the "gas" rated Teflon tape. It is thicker and easier to deal with, and it is identified by it's yellow color. Ok, that's enough information for me. I've used Teflon tape on plumbing joints before, so I'll pick up some of the yellow version. Just for interest's sake, I bought the Dewalt D55141 compressor you told me about. Haven't run it yet because I was waiting for an order of hose and fittings to come in which just did. I'll pick up the tape this weekend and let you know how loud this 85db compressor sounds compared to the old one that I'm giving to a friend. What did you use on the old one? Do you know if the yellow version tape will do double duty on regular plumbing fixtures? ~ not a money thing, just a convenience if it will work. |
#39
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Plumber's tape needed?
TFE can become tiny parts. It will clog gas gets and
kill those inside. Thus the hot water heater if gas - use plumbing gunk to lock it up. Plasma torches and the like have small holes - as do paint guns and the like. Martin Lew Hodgett wrote: "Tom Veatch" wrote: I certainly can't fault your advice other than to mention that combustion plumbing is a little outside the scope of the OP's question. Which, if I read correctly, involves plumbing for compressed air. A mater of standardization. If you are going to need Teflon paste for some possible applications, why not use it for all? Can't be cost, a bottle of Teflon paste is only a couple of bucks. And unless you are a pipe fitter or a plumber, a small bottle is probably a multi year supply. Lew |
#40
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Plumber's tape needed?
"LD" wrote in message know how loud this 85db compressor sounds compared to the old one that I'm giving to a friend. What did you use on the old one? Nothing. Didn't occur to me when I bought it some ten years ago. And yes, there was a small, discernable hiss right at the point of air exiting whatever male adapter I had inserted. Also, all the adapters appeared to be some type of silver coloured alloy. This time they're all copper as recommended. |
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