angled finger joint? for beehive
 

On Mon, 1 Jun 2009 20:17:37 +0100, Adam Chapman wrote
(in article
):

Hello,

I want to make this beehive
http://www.beesource.com/build-it-yo...ve-steve-moye/
, it's called a "WBC"hive if anyone wants to read about it.

Basically I have no idea how to make the finger joint at at angle like
that. Im sure i could work out the angles, but cant work out how
tomake it with a router.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,
Adam


I'm Xposting this to rec.woodworking for you 'cos there's some clever blokes
on there who might be able to come at this from a different direction and
sort you out properly

Meanwhile

I just took a look at the drawings on
http://www.beesource.com/files/10frwbci.pdf

As it stands there's NO way to cut the joints with a router because the cuts
would be parallelogram shaped. The cuts would have to be cut parallel with
each other but at an angle relative to the board edge

You _can_ do it by hand (well, I couldn't)
or
you can have one of the pairs of sides square to the other a
and running "normally square" - as in like a standard box joint - on the
square-cornered sides.

Check out

http://www.stots.com/tm.htm

review
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/prd-stot.htm

This guy sells a jig for you to make your own dovetail/box jigs of any size
and custom built for any particular weird project you have on hand, so if
you're willing to lose the leaning-in on two of the walls, you could joint it
fairly easily - even dovetail it - with this gizmo which is around 40 usd

He has some nice examples of angled dovetails. Watch the on-site video for a
step by step account.

I've probably overlooked something obvious, so I'm throwing this one out to
the floor for sage counsel.

Enjoy!

angled finger joint? for beehive
 

On 6/20/2009 4:59 AM Bored Borg spake thus:

On Mon, 1 Jun 2009 20:17:37 +0100, Adam Chapman wrote
(in article
):

I want to make this beehive
http://www.beesource.com/build-it-yo...ve-steve-moye/
, it's called a "WBC"hive if anyone wants to read about it.

Basically I have no idea how to make the finger joint at at angle like
that. Im sure i could work out the angles, but cant work out how
tomake it with a router.

My first take on this is that it might be impossible to do with a
router. (At least impossible to make joints that don't have gaps in the
corners.)

What occurs to me is to make the cuts on a table saw, with the blade
tilted and with a wedge underneath the piece to make the compound angle.
Then finish cutting the joints with a chisel (chopping out the waste).

This is for a box joint: I wouldn't even want to speculate about making
angled dovetails. Possible, but a headache.


--
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism

angled finger joint? for beehive
 

Bored Borg wrote:
On Mon, 1 Jun 2009 20:17:37 +0100, Adam Chapman wrote
(in article
):

Hello,

I want to make this beehive
http://www.beesource.com/build-it-yo...ve-steve-moye/
, it's called a "WBC"hive if anyone wants to read about it.

Basically I have no idea how to make the finger joint at at angle like
that. Im sure i could work out the angles, but cant work out how
tomake it with a router.

I'm Xposting this to rec.woodworking for you 'cos there's some clever blokes
on there who might be able to come at this from a different direction and
sort you out properly

If I had only a few supers to build, I'd make the first pairs of cuts on
the bandsaw, then chop the material between pairs of cuts with a chisel.

If I had any quantity to build, I'd cut 'em on the cnc router using a
1/16" bit...

....but if I had a choice, I'd make nice, simple box-joint supers on the
table saw. :)

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

angled finger joint? for beehive
 

"Bored Borg" wrote in message
.com...
On Mon, 1 Jun 2009 20:17:37 +0100, Adam Chapman wrote
(in article
):

Hello,

I want to make this beehive
http://www.beesource.com/build-it-yo...ve-steve-moye/
, it's called a "WBC"hive if anyone wants to read about it.

Basically I have no idea how to make the finger joint at at angle like
that. Im sure i could work out the angles, but cant work out how
tomake it with a router.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,
Adam


I'm Xposting this to rec.woodworking for you 'cos there's some clever blokes
on there who might be able to come at this from a different direction and
sort you out properly

Meanwhile

I just took a look at the drawings on
http://www.beesource.com/files/10frwbci.pdf

As it stands there's NO way to cut the joints with a router because the cuts
would be parallelogram shaped. The cuts would have to be cut parallel with
each other but at an angle relative to the board edge

You _can_ do it by hand (well, I couldn't)
or
you can have one of the pairs of sides square to the other a
and running "normally square" - as in like a standard box joint - on the
square-cornered sides.

Check out

http://www.stots.com/tm.htm

review
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/prd-stot.htm

This guy sells a jig for you to make your own dovetail/box jigs of any size
and custom built for any particular weird project you have on hand, so if
you're willing to lose the leaning-in on two of the walls, you could joint it
fairly easily - even dovetail it - with this gizmo which is around 40 usd

He has some nice examples of angled dovetails. Watch the on-site video for a
step by step account.

I've probably overlooked something obvious, so I'm throwing this one out to
the floor for sage counsel.

Enjoy!


How about using a standard super and cover it with clapboard siding
and mitered corners?
Art
(I can't post to the alt groups (handicapped by Verizon) so maybe someone
could post this over there?)

angled finger joint? for beehive
 

"Bored Borg" wrote:

I just took a look at the drawings on
http://www.beesource.com/files/10frwbci.pdf

A few years ago, Norm built some serving trays with angled corners and
dovetails.

Can't remember all the details, but NYW would have the video.

Lew

angled finger joint? for beehive
 

On Jun 20, 7:59*am, Bored Borg
wrote:
On Mon, 1 Jun 2009 20:17:37 +0100, Adam Chapman wrote
(in article
):

Hello,

I want to make this beehive
http://www.beesource.com/build-it-yo...ve-steve-moye/
, it's called a "WBC"hive if anyone wants to read about it.

Basically I have no idea how to make the finger joint at at angle like
that. Im sure i could work out the angles, but cant work out how
tomake it with a router.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,
Adam

I'm Xposting this to rec.woodworking for you 'cos there's some clever blokes
on there who might be able to come at this from a different direction and
sort you out properly

Meanwhile

I just took a look at the drawings onhttp://www.beesource.com/files/10frwbci.pdf

As it stands there's NO way to cut the joints with a router because the cuts *
would be parallelogram shaped. The cuts would have to be cut parallel with
each other but at an angle relative to the board edge

You _can_ do it by hand (well, I couldn't)
or
you can have one of the pairs of sides square to the other a
and running *"normally square" - as in like a standard box joint - on the
square-cornered sides.

Check out

http://www.stots.com/tm.htm

reviewhttp://www.woodshopdemos.com/prd-stot.htm

This guy sells a jig for you to make your own dovetail/box jigs of any size
and custom built for any particular weird project you have on hand, so if
you're willing to lose the leaning-in on two of the walls, you could joint it
fairly easily - even dovetail it - with this gizmo which is around 40 usd

He has some nice examples of angled dovetails. Watch the on-site video for a
step by step account.

I've probably overlooked something obvious, so I'm throwing this one out to
the floor for sage counsel.

Enjoy!

Waste of time to even cut box joints when rabbetted boxes are
sufficiently strong with modern glues and nails an in my collection of
hive furniture appear less prone to rot.

angled finger joint? for beehive
 

On Mon, 1 Jun 2009 20:17:37 +0100, Adam Chapman wrote

Hello,

I want to make this beehive
http://www.beesource.com/build-it-yo...ve-steve-moye/
, it's called a "WBC"hive if anyone wants to read about it.

Basically I have no idea how to make the finger joint at at angle like
that. Im sure i could work out the angles, but cant work out how
tomake it with a router.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,
Adam

See if you can pick up an April 2009 Issue #182 of the Woodsmith
magazine. They have a "weekend project" on how to make a "Box-Jointed
Silverware Tray" that gives instruction on how to cut the angled box
joints using a table saw starting on page 16.

http://www.woodsmith.com/issues/182/

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

angled finger joint? for beehive
 

Upscale wrote:
"Morris Dovey" wrote in message
I want to make this beehive

http://www.beesource.com/build-it-yo...ve-steve-moye/
, it's called a "WBC"hive if anyone wants to read about it.

If I had any quantity to build, I'd cut 'em on the cnc router using a
1/16" bit...

Am I missing something here? Wouldn't he cut four identical isosceles
trapezoid shapes and then cut the box joints on the opposite angled ends?
Each end is straight and 90° square, so box joints should be a breeze. My
math is most certainly out of date, but if there's a problem with this, it
bewilders me as to what it is.
http://www.absoluteastronomy.com/top...eles_trapezoid

I think you might be (missing something) - or it might be that cutting
the box joints and top/bottom of the trapezoid not perpendicular to the
board face would be easier for you to set on your table saw than for me
on mine.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

angled finger joint? for beehive
 

Nova wrote:

See if you can pick up an April 2009 Issue #182 of the Woodsmith
magazine. They have a "weekend project" on how to make a "Box-Jointed
Silverware Tray" that gives instruction on how to cut the angled box
joints using a table saw starting on page 16.

http://www.woodsmith.com/issues/182/

That does look like a much easier joint to make.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/

angled finger joint? for beehive
 

"Morris Dovey" wrote in message
I want to make this beehive

http://www.beesource.com/build-it-yo...ve-steve-moye/
, it's called a "WBC"hive if anyone wants to read about it.

If I had any quantity to build, I'd cut 'em on the cnc router using a
1/16" bit...

Am I missing something here? Wouldn't he cut four identical isosceles
trapezoid shapes and then cut the box joints on the opposite angled ends?
Each end is straight and 90° square, so box joints should be a breeze. My
math is most certainly out of date, but if there's a problem with this, it
bewilders me as to what it is.
http://www.absoluteastronomy.com/top...eles_trapezoid

angled finger joint? for beehive
 

On 6/20/2009 4:59 AM Bored Borg spake thus:

On Mon, 1 Jun 2009 20:17:37 +0100, Adam Chapman wrote
(in article
):

I want to make this beehive
http://www.beesource.com/build-it-yo...ve-steve-moye/
, it's called a "WBC"hive if anyone wants to read about it.

Basically I have no idea how to make the finger joint at at angle like
that. Im sure i could work out the angles, but cant work out how
tomake it with a router.

I'm Xposting this to rec.woodworking for you 'cos there's some clever blokes
on there who might be able to come at this from a different direction and
sort you out properly

Meanwhile

I just took a look at the drawings on
http://www.beesource.com/files/10frwbci.pdf

As it stands there's NO way to cut the joints with a router because the cuts
would be parallelogram shaped. The cuts would have to be cut parallel with
each other but at an angle relative to the board edge

You _can_ do it by hand (well, I couldn't)
or
you can have one of the pairs of sides square to the other a
and running "normally square" - as in like a standard box joint - on the
square-cornered sides.

One question: why, exactly, do the boxes have to have angled sides like
that? Is it a functional part of the design, or just an esthetic one?

(Haven't checked out the documentation referred to, I'll admit, 'cos I
don't like downloading huge PDFs just for curiosity's sake.)


--
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism

angled finger joint? for beehive
 

On Jun 21, 9:31*pm, David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 6/20/2009 4:59 AM Bored Borg spake thus:





On Mon, 1 Jun 2009 20:17:37 +0100, Adam Chapman wrote
(in article
):

I want to make this beehive
http://www.beesource.com/build-it-yo...ve-steve-moye/
, it's called a "WBC"hive if anyone wants to read about it.

Basically I have no idea how to make the finger joint at at angle like
that. Im sure i could work out the angles, but cant work out how
tomake it with a router.

I'm Xposting this to rec.woodworking for you 'cos there's some clever blokes
on there who might be able to come at this from a different direction and
sort you out properly

Meanwhile

I just took a look at the drawings on
http://www.beesource.com/files/10frwbci.pdf

As it stands there's NO way to cut the joints with a router because the cuts *
would be parallelogram shaped. The cuts would have to be cut parallel with
each other but at an angle relative to the board edge

You _can_ do it by hand (well, I couldn't)
or
you can have one of the pairs of sides square to the other a
and running *"normally square" - as in like a standard box joint - on the
square-cornered sides.

One question: why, exactly, do the boxes have to have angled sides like
that? Is it a functional part of the design, or just an esthetic one?

(Haven't checked out the documentation referred to, I'll admit, 'cos I
don't like downloading huge PDFs just for curiosity's sake.)

--
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I suppose its just to look nice. I know the outer case has an air gap
from the inner cases containing the bees, to keep the hive warmer in
the winter. Im thinking it would be faster, easier to do something
like a biscuit joint. It'd also give me a better chance of leaving a
nice finish, as there would be no end grain showing. I'm making it
from pine since its cheap. A lot of people use cedar because of its
lighter weight but i don't intend to carry mine anywhere.

Thanks for all the replies everyone, I appreciate it a lot

angled finger joint? for beehive
 

On 6/22/2009 3:14 AM Adam Chapman spake thus:

On Jun 21, 9:31 pm, David Nebenzahl wrote:

One question: why, exactly, do the boxes have to have angled sides
like that? Is it a functional part of the design, or just an
esthetic one?

I suppose its just to look nice. I know the outer case has an air gap
from the inner cases containing the bees, to keep the hive warmer in
the winter. Im thinking it would be faster, easier to do something
like a biscuit joint. It'd also give me a better chance of leaving a
nice finish, as there would be no end grain showing. I'm making it
from pine since its cheap. A lot of people use cedar because of its
lighter weight but i don't intend to carry mine anywhere.

So if the angling doesn't have any function, just make standard
rectangular boxes. Don't try to use biscuits--they're not made for
things like this exposed to the elements; the boxes will eventually fall
apart. Just use the traditional finger joint--it's been proven down
through the ages.

[note post trimming]


--
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism

angled finger joint? for beehive
 

If you want to avoid biscuits, then you can use splines (I tend to
find them faster and more acurate than buscuits anyway). In any case,
I would suggest Cedar instead of pine, as pine is not very weather
resistant. The only way I can think of to do the joints in the
diagram using power tools would be on a tablesaw with a specially
shaped dado blade.

angled finger joint? for beehive
 

Somebody wrote:


One question: why, exactly, do the boxes have to have angled sides
like that? Is it a functional part of the design, or just an
esthetic one?

I suspect for ventilation.

All those bees in the hive generate a lot of heat.

Lew

angled finger joint? for beehive
 

Not too bad...

Go he

http://www.deltaportercable.com/jigs/dovetail/

Bored Borg wrote:
On Mon, 1 Jun 2009 20:17:37 +0100, Adam Chapman wrote
(in article
):

Hello,

I want to make this beehive
http://www.beesource.com/build-it-yo...ve-steve-moye/
, it's called a "WBC"hive if anyone wants to read about it.

Basically I have no idea how to make the finger joint at at angle like
that. Im sure i could work out the angles, but cant work out how
tomake it with a router.

angled finger joint? for beehive
 

On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 03:14:13 -0700 (PDT), Adam Chapman
wrote:

On Jun 21, 9:31*pm, David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 6/20/2009 4:59 AM Bored Borg spake thus:





On Mon, 1 Jun 2009 20:17:37 +0100, Adam Chapman wrote
(in article
):

I want to make this beehive
http://www.beesource.com/build-it-yo...ve-steve-moye/
, it's called a "WBC"hive if anyone wants to read about it.

Basically I have no idea how to make the finger joint at at angle like
that. Im sure i could work out the angles, but cant work out how
tomake it with a router.

I'm Xposting this to rec.woodworking for you 'cos there's some clever blokes
on there who might be able to come at this from a different direction and
sort you out properly

Meanwhile

I just took a look at the drawings on
http://www.beesource.com/files/10frwbci.pdf

As it stands there's NO way to cut the joints with a router because the cuts *
would be parallelogram shaped. The cuts would have to be cut parallel with
each other but at an angle relative to the board edge

You _can_ do it by hand (well, I couldn't)
or
you can have one of the pairs of sides square to the other a
and running *"normally square" - as in like a standard box joint - on the
square-cornered sides.

One question: why, exactly, do the boxes have to have angled sides like
that? Is it a functional part of the design, or just an esthetic one?

(Haven't checked out the documentation referred to, I'll admit, 'cos I
don't like downloading huge PDFs just for curiosity's sake.)

--
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I suppose its just to look nice. I know the outer case has an air gap
from the inner cases containing the bees, to keep the hive warmer in
the winter. Im thinking it would be faster, easier to do something
like a biscuit joint. It'd also give me a better chance of leaving a
nice finish, as there would be no end grain showing. I'm making it
from pine since its cheap. A lot of people use cedar because of its
lighter weight but i don't intend to carry mine anywhere.

I suspect cedar is used for its natural weather resistance.

Thanks for all the replies everyone, I appreciate it a lot

angled finger joint? for beehive
 

"krw" wrote in message
I suspect cedar is used for its natural weather resistance.

The question is, how well to Bees tolerate the smell and characteristics of
cedar? You should investigate that very closely before building what may
become just an unused box.

angled finger joint? for beehive
 

On Jun 23, 5:33*am, "Upscale" wrote:
"krw" wrote in message
I suspect cedar is used for its natural weather resistance.

The question is, how well to Bees tolerate the smell and characteristics of
cedar? You should investigate that very closely before building what may
become just an unused box.

I wouldn't use aromatic cedar, but the "green" cedar I made a fence
out of in a previous house wasn't any more "smelly" than pine.
Carpenter bees sure love the cedar rafter ends in my current house. :-
(

angled finger joint? for beehive
 

Upscale wrote:
"krw" wrote in message
I suspect cedar is used for its natural weather resistance.

The question is, how well to Bees tolerate the smell and characteristics of
cedar? You should investigate that very closely before building what may
become just an unused box.

Traditionally hives are made of pine, painted white, are simply a square
box with finger joints. There is no "inner box", the inside is filled
with removable frames.

I think you could use any kind of joint you want, a simple butt joint
nailed would work fine I think, the bees glue everything together
anyway:-). A finger joint or dovetail joint is the joint I would use,
or I would use biscuits if I had them (I don't).

As for cedar wood, it is not necessary and I wouldn't use it unless I
knew the bees liked it, (my guess is they don't care) and does it flavor
the honey (my guess is it does)

Also, bees provide their own heating and air conditioning.
--
Jack
Using FREE News Server: http://www.eternal-september.org/
http://jbstein.com

angled finger joint? for beehive
 

On Jun 23, 12:19*am, krw wrote:
On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 03:14:13 -0700 (PDT), Adam Chapman





wrote:
On Jun 21, 9:31*pm, David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 6/20/2009 4:59 AM Bored Borg spake thus:

On Mon, 1 Jun 2009 20:17:37 +0100, Adam Chapman wrote
(in article
):

I want to make this beehive
http://www.beesource.com/build-it-yo...ve-steve-moye/
, it's called a "WBC"hive if anyone wants to read about it.

Basically I have no idea how to make the finger joint at at angle like
that. Im sure i could work out the angles, but cant work out how
tomake it with a router.

I'm Xposting this to rec.woodworking for you 'cos there's some clever blokes
on there who might be able to come at this from a different direction and
sort you out properly

Meanwhile

I just took a look at the drawings on
http://www.beesource.com/files/10frwbci.pdf

As it stands there's NO way to cut the joints with a router because the cuts *
would be parallelogram shaped. The cuts would have to be cut parallel with
each other but at an angle relative to the board edge

You _can_ do it by hand (well, I couldn't)
or
you can have one of the pairs of sides square to the other a
and running *"normally square" - as in like a standard box joint - on the
square-cornered sides.

One question: why, exactly, do the boxes have to have angled sides like
that? Is it a functional part of the design, or just an esthetic one?

(Haven't checked out the documentation referred to, I'll admit, 'cos I
don't like downloading huge PDFs just for curiosity's sake.)

--
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I suppose its just to look nice. I know the outer case has an air gap
from the inner cases containing the bees, to keep the hive warmer in
the winter. Im thinking it would be faster, easier to do something
like a biscuit joint. It'd also give me a better chance of leaving a
nice finish, as there would be no end grain showing. I'm making it
from pine since its cheap. A lot of people use cedar because of its
lighter weight but i don't intend to carry mine anywhere.

I suspect cedar is used for its natural weather resistance.


Would it matter if you just treated the pine? I mean i have a pine
shed thats stood up for years


Thanks for all the replies everyone, I appreciate it a lot- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

angled finger joint? for beehive
 

On Wed, 24 Jun 2009 03:22:38 -0700 (PDT), Adam Chapman
wrote:

On Jun 23, 12:19*am, krw wrote:
On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 03:14:13 -0700 (PDT), Adam Chapman





wrote:
On Jun 21, 9:31*pm, David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 6/20/2009 4:59 AM Bored Borg spake thus:

On Mon, 1 Jun 2009 20:17:37 +0100, Adam Chapman wrote
(in article
):

I want to make this beehive
http://www.beesource.com/build-it-yo...ve-steve-moye/
, it's called a "WBC"hive if anyone wants to read about it.

Basically I have no idea how to make the finger joint at at angle like
that. Im sure i could work out the angles, but cant work out how
tomake it with a router.

I'm Xposting this to rec.woodworking for you 'cos there's some clever blokes
on there who might be able to come at this from a different direction and
sort you out properly

Meanwhile

I just took a look at the drawings on
http://www.beesource.com/files/10frwbci.pdf

As it stands there's NO way to cut the joints with a router because the cuts *
would be parallelogram shaped. The cuts would have to be cut parallel with
each other but at an angle relative to the board edge

You _can_ do it by hand (well, I couldn't)
or
you can have one of the pairs of sides square to the other a
and running *"normally square" - as in like a standard box joint - on the
square-cornered sides.

One question: why, exactly, do the boxes have to have angled sides like
that? Is it a functional part of the design, or just an esthetic one?

(Haven't checked out the documentation referred to, I'll admit, 'cos I
don't like downloading huge PDFs just for curiosity's sake.)

--
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I suppose its just to look nice. I know the outer case has an air gap
from the inner cases containing the bees, to keep the hive warmer in
the winter. Im thinking it would be faster, easier to do something
like a biscuit joint. It'd also give me a better chance of leaving a
nice finish, as there would be no end grain showing. I'm making it
from pine since its cheap. A lot of people use cedar because of its
lighter weight but i don't intend to carry mine anywhere.

I suspect cedar is used for its natural weather resistance.


Would it matter if you just treated the pine? I mean i have a pine
shed thats stood up for years

Don't know. I was responding primarily to the statement; "A lot of
people use cedar because of its lighter weight". Cedar will certainly
outlast pine, but that may or may not be important to you.

angled finger joint? for beehive
 

On Jun 20, 7:59*am, Bored Borg
wrote:
On Mon, 1 Jun 2009 20:17:37 +0100, Adam Chapman wrote
(in article
):

Hello,

I want to make this beehive
http://www.beesource.com/build-it-yo...ve-steve-moye/
, it's called a "WBC"hive if anyone wants to read about it.

Basically I have no idea how to make the finger joint at at angle like
that. Im sure i could work out the angles, but cant work out how
tomake it with a router.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,
Adam

I'm Xposting this to rec.woodworking for you 'cos there's some clever blokes
on there who might be able to come at this from a different direction and
sort you out properly

Meanwhile

I just took a look at the drawings onhttp://www.beesource.com/files/10frwbci.pdf

As it stands there's NO way to cut the joints with a router because the cuts *
would be parallelogram shaped. The cuts would have to be cut parallel with
each other but at an angle relative to the board edge

Mill the sides, chop the baselines with a chisel.

angled finger joint? for beehive
 

On Jun 23, 9:05 am, Jack Stein wrote:
Upscale wrote:
"krw" wrote in message
I suspect cedar is used for its natural weather resistance.

The question is, how well to Bees tolerate the smell and characteristics of
cedar? You should investigate that very closely before building what may
become just an unused box.

Traditionally hives are made of pine, painted white, are simply a square
box with finger joints. There is no "inner box", the inside is filled
with removable frames.

I think you could use any kind of joint you want, a simple butt joint
nailed would work fine I think, the bees glue everything together
anyway:-). A finger joint or dovetail joint is the joint I would use,
or I would use biscuits if I had them (I don't).

As for cedar wood, it is not necessary and I wouldn't use it unless I
knew the bees liked it, (my guess is they don't care) and does it flavor
the honey (my guess is it does)

Also, bees provide their own heating and air conditioning.
--
Jack
Using FREE News Server:http://www.eternal-september.org/http://jbstein.com

I have seen several different cedar trees with feral bee colonies in
them. Cedar wood and odors do not seem to be a problem for the bees.
Photon

angled finger joint? for beehive
 

On Jun 23, 9:05 am, Jack Stein wrote:

As for cedar wood, it is not necessary and I wouldn't use it unless I
knew the bees liked it, (my guess is they don't care) and does it flavor
the honey (my guess is it does)
Jack

PHOTON wrote:
I have seen several different cedar trees with feral bee colonies in
them. Cedar wood and odors do not seem to be a problem for the bees.
Photon

Did you taste the honey?
Did it taste/smell like aromatic cedar wood would?

--
Jack
Using FREE News Server: http://www.eternal-september.org/
http://jbstein.com