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angled finger joint? for beehive



 
 
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  #11  
Old June 21st 09, 09:31 PM posted to rec.woodworking,alt.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,479
Default angled finger joint? for beehive

On 6/20/2009 4:59 AM Bored Borg spake thus:

On Mon, 1 Jun 2009 20:17:37 +0100, Adam Chapman wrote
(in article
):

I want to make this beehive
http://www.beesource.com/build-it-yo...ve-steve-moye/
, it's called a "WBC"hive if anyone wants to read about it.

Basically I have no idea how to make the finger joint at at angle like
that. Im sure i could work out the angles, but cant work out how
tomake it with a router.


I'm Xposting this to rec.woodworking for you 'cos there's some clever blokes
on there who might be able to come at this from a different direction and
sort you out properly

Meanwhile

I just took a look at the drawings on
http://www.beesource.com/files/10frwbci.pdf

As it stands there's NO way to cut the joints with a router because the cuts
would be parallelogram shaped. The cuts would have to be cut parallel with
each other but at an angle relative to the board edge

You _can_ do it by hand (well, I couldn't)
or
you can have one of the pairs of sides square to the other a
and running "normally square" - as in like a standard box joint - on the
square-cornered sides.


One question: why, exactly, do the boxes have to have angled sides like
that? Is it a functional part of the design, or just an esthetic one?

(Haven't checked out the documentation referred to, I'll admit, 'cos I
don't like downloading huge PDFs just for curiosity's sake.)


--
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism
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  #12  
Old June 22nd 09, 11:14 AM posted to rec.woodworking,alt.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2
Default angled finger joint? for beehive

On Jun 21, 9:31*pm, David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 6/20/2009 4:59 AM Bored Borg spake thus:





On Mon, 1 Jun 2009 20:17:37 +0100, Adam Chapman wrote
(in article
):


I want to make this beehive
http://www.beesource.com/build-it-yo...ve-steve-moye/
, it's called a "WBC"hive if anyone wants to read about it.


Basically I have no idea how to make the finger joint at at angle like
that. Im sure i could work out the angles, but cant work out how
tomake it with a router.


I'm Xposting this to rec.woodworking for you 'cos there's some clever blokes
on there who might be able to come at this from a different direction and
sort you out properly


Meanwhile


I just took a look at the drawings on
http://www.beesource.com/files/10frwbci.pdf


As it stands there's NO way to cut the joints with a router because the cuts *
would be parallelogram shaped. The cuts would have to be cut parallel with
each other but at an angle relative to the board edge


You _can_ do it by hand (well, I couldn't)
or
you can have one of the pairs of sides square to the other a
and running *"normally square" - as in like a standard box joint - on the
square-cornered sides.


One question: why, exactly, do the boxes have to have angled sides like
that? Is it a functional part of the design, or just an esthetic one?

(Haven't checked out the documentation referred to, I'll admit, 'cos I
don't like downloading huge PDFs just for curiosity's sake.)

--
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


I suppose its just to look nice. I know the outer case has an air gap
from the inner cases containing the bees, to keep the hive warmer in
the winter. Im thinking it would be faster, easier to do something
like a biscuit joint. It'd also give me a better chance of leaving a
nice finish, as there would be no end grain showing. I'm making it
from pine since its cheap. A lot of people use cedar because of its
lighter weight but i don't intend to carry mine anywhere.

Thanks for all the replies everyone, I appreciate it a lot
  #13  
Old June 22nd 09, 06:53 PM posted to rec.woodworking,alt.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,479
Default angled finger joint? for beehive

On 6/22/2009 3:14 AM Adam Chapman spake thus:

On Jun 21, 9:31 pm, David Nebenzahl wrote:

One question: why, exactly, do the boxes have to have angled sides
like that? Is it a functional part of the design, or just an
esthetic one?


I suppose its just to look nice. I know the outer case has an air gap
from the inner cases containing the bees, to keep the hive warmer in
the winter. Im thinking it would be faster, easier to do something
like a biscuit joint. It'd also give me a better chance of leaving a
nice finish, as there would be no end grain showing. I'm making it
from pine since its cheap. A lot of people use cedar because of its
lighter weight but i don't intend to carry mine anywhere.


So if the angling doesn't have any function, just make standard
rectangular boxes. Don't try to use biscuits--they're not made for
things like this exposed to the elements; the boxes will eventually fall
apart. Just use the traditional finger joint--it's been proven down
through the ages.

[note post trimming]


--
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism
  #14  
Old June 22nd 09, 08:22 PM posted to rec.woodworking,alt.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 36
Default angled finger joint? for beehive

If you want to avoid biscuits, then you can use splines (I tend to
find them faster and more acurate than buscuits anyway). In any case,
I would suggest Cedar instead of pine, as pine is not very weather
resistant. The only way I can think of to do the joints in the
diagram using power tools would be on a tablesaw with a specially
shaped dado blade.

  #15  
Old June 22nd 09, 09:43 PM posted to rec.woodworking,alt.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 631
Default angled finger joint? for beehive

Somebody wrote:


One question: why, exactly, do the boxes have to have angled sides
like that? Is it a functional part of the design, or just an
esthetic one?


I suspect for ventilation.

All those bees in the hive generate a lot of heat.

Lew


  #16  
Old June 22nd 09, 09:48 PM posted to rec.woodworking,alt.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 844
Default angled finger joint? for beehive

Not too bad...

Go he

http://www.deltaportercable.com/jigs/dovetail/

Bored Borg wrote:
On Mon, 1 Jun 2009 20:17:37 +0100, Adam Chapman wrote
(in article
):

Hello,

I want to make this beehive
http://www.beesource.com/build-it-yo...ve-steve-moye/
, it's called a "WBC"hive if anyone wants to read about it.

Basically I have no idea how to make the finger joint at at angle like
that. Im sure i could work out the angles, but cant work out how
tomake it with a router.


  #17  
Old June 23rd 09, 12:19 AM posted to rec.woodworking,alt.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 613
Default angled finger joint? for beehive

On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 03:14:13 -0700 (PDT), Adam Chapman
wrote:

On Jun 21, 9:31*pm, David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 6/20/2009 4:59 AM Bored Borg spake thus:





On Mon, 1 Jun 2009 20:17:37 +0100, Adam Chapman wrote
(in article
):


I want to make this beehive
http://www.beesource.com/build-it-yo...ve-steve-moye/
, it's called a "WBC"hive if anyone wants to read about it.


Basically I have no idea how to make the finger joint at at angle like
that. Im sure i could work out the angles, but cant work out how
tomake it with a router.


I'm Xposting this to rec.woodworking for you 'cos there's some clever blokes
on there who might be able to come at this from a different direction and
sort you out properly


Meanwhile


I just took a look at the drawings on
http://www.beesource.com/files/10frwbci.pdf


As it stands there's NO way to cut the joints with a router because the cuts *
would be parallelogram shaped. The cuts would have to be cut parallel with
each other but at an angle relative to the board edge


You _can_ do it by hand (well, I couldn't)
or
you can have one of the pairs of sides square to the other a
and running *"normally square" - as in like a standard box joint - on the
square-cornered sides.


One question: why, exactly, do the boxes have to have angled sides like
that? Is it a functional part of the design, or just an esthetic one?

(Haven't checked out the documentation referred to, I'll admit, 'cos I
don't like downloading huge PDFs just for curiosity's sake.)

--
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


I suppose its just to look nice. I know the outer case has an air gap
from the inner cases containing the bees, to keep the hive warmer in
the winter. Im thinking it would be faster, easier to do something
like a biscuit joint. It'd also give me a better chance of leaving a
nice finish, as there would be no end grain showing. I'm making it
from pine since its cheap. A lot of people use cedar because of its
lighter weight but i don't intend to carry mine anywhere.


I suspect cedar is used for its natural weather resistance.

Thanks for all the replies everyone, I appreciate it a lot


  #18  
Old June 23rd 09, 11:33 AM posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,398
Default angled finger joint? for beehive


"krw" wrote in message
I suspect cedar is used for its natural weather resistance.


The question is, how well to Bees tolerate the smell and characteristics of
cedar? You should investigate that very closely before building what may
become just an unused box.


  #19  
Old June 23rd 09, 01:23 PM posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 433
Default angled finger joint? for beehive

On Jun 23, 5:33*am, "Upscale" wrote:
"krw" wrote in message
I suspect cedar is used for its natural weather resistance.


The question is, how well to Bees tolerate the smell and characteristics of
cedar? You should investigate that very closely before building what may
become just an unused box.


I wouldn't use aromatic cedar, but the "green" cedar I made a fence
out of in a previous house wasn't any more "smelly" than pine.
Carpenter bees sure love the cedar rafter ends in my current house. :-
(

  #20  
Old June 23rd 09, 03:05 PM posted to rec.woodworking
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,215
Default angled finger joint? for beehive

Upscale wrote:
"krw" wrote in message
I suspect cedar is used for its natural weather resistance.


The question is, how well to Bees tolerate the smell and characteristics of
cedar? You should investigate that very closely before building what may
become just an unused box.


Traditionally hives are made of pine, painted white, are simply a square
box with finger joints. There is no "inner box", the inside is filled
with removable frames.

I think you could use any kind of joint you want, a simple butt joint
nailed would work fine I think, the bees glue everything together
anyway:-). A finger joint or dovetail joint is the joint I would use,
or I would use biscuits if I had them (I don't).

As for cedar wood, it is not necessary and I wouldn't use it unless I
knew the bees liked it, (my guess is they don't care) and does it flavor
the honey (my guess is it does)

Also, bees provide their own heating and air conditioning.
--
Jack
Using FREE News Server: http://www.eternal-september.org/
http://jbstein.com
 




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