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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Way OT -- brake fluid
I've got a 1952 MGTD. When I put her to bed last fall, the brakes were
fine. Now the peddle goes down to the floor. First step is to add brake fluid, but I don't know what's in there now. Have seen plenty of cautions about mixing fluid types. Any way of figuring out what's in there now? TIA Larry |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Way OT -- brake fluid
TD Driver wrote:
I've got a 1952 MGTD. When I put her to bed last fall, the brakes were fine. Now the peddle goes down to the floor. First step is to add brake fluid, but I don't know what's in there now. Have seen plenty of cautions about mixing fluid types. Any way of figuring out what's in there now? TIA Larry This means you probably have a leak, right? The problem with just adding fluid after a leak is that there is probably air in the lines. Air has a funny way of working its way through the line to cause a failure at an inopportune time, like when you want to stop. :-) That means you have to bleed the lines, anyway. If you're going to bleed the lines, you might as well find the leak and fix it. I'm assuming you want to keep that classic in shape. :-) If the leak isn't apparent, I would say you could add the recommended fluid just to top it off so you can pressurize the system to find the leak. Evacuate all the fluid. Fix the leak. Refill with recommended fluid. Bleed the lines. Enjoy a drive. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Way OT -- brake fluid
On Apr 23, 1:21*pm, TD Driver wrote:
I've got a 1952 MGTD. *When I put her to bed last fall, the brakes were fine. *Now the peddle goes down to the floor. *First step is to add brake fluid, but I don't know what's in there now. *Have seen plenty of cautions about mixing fluid types. *Any way of figuring out what's in there now? TIA Larry DOT 3 and 4 *will* mix with water so take a little out of the master cylinder and add it to a container containing a little water and shake. If after sitting it separates then you have DOT 5. DOT 5 is usually purple or blue while 3 & 4 are honey colored. Unfortunately they all turn a dark brown after a while. You are correct, do not mix 3 or 4 with 5. DO NOT spill DOT 3 on anything you like, it will either destroy paint or rust bare metal. As was already said you most likely have a leak or a bad master cylinder. The seals in a master cylinder can go without showing a leak. Top off the fluid and *gently* pump the pedal to see if you get improvement. If you don't get improvement start looking for leaks. If it is one of the wheel cylinders (drum brakes) quite a bit of fluid can leak inside the drum before you can see any w/o removing the drum. good luck. |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Way OT -- brake fluid
"TD Driver" wrote in message ... I've got a 1952 MGTD. When I put her to bed last fall, the brakes were fine. Now the peddle goes down to the floor. First step is to add brake fluid, but I don't know what's in there now. Have seen plenty of cautions about mixing fluid types. Any way of figuring out what's in there now? TIA Larry Every one pretty much has given you good advise. But if the pedal goes to the floor now, adding fluid may not solve the problem if it is low. If you applied the brake pedal to a low MC you probably have air in the lines as previously mentioned. Look under the car around the bottom of the tires and see if there is any fluid leak from a leaking wheel cylinder. |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Way OT -- brake fluid
TD Driver wrote:
I've got a 1952 MGTD. When I put her to bed last fall, the brakes were fine. Now the peddle goes down to the floor. First step is to add brake fluid, but I don't know what's in there now. Have seen plenty of cautions about mixing fluid types. Any way of figuring out what's in there now? TIA Larry Lots of good advice above. I DAGS on MGTD manual and got the usual 25000 hits. One seems like a book you should have. Look at http://www.amazon.com/Complete-MG-TD.../dp/0938253026 . Might be of interest if a bit pricey (new at $46 and used at $93 (?)). I am a bit envious of you and your TD. Oh well. mahalo, jo4hn |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Way OT -- brake fluid
In article ,
TD Driver wrote: I've got a 1952 MGTD. When I put her to bed last fall, the brakes were fine. Now the peddle goes down to the floor. First step is to add brake fluid, but I don't know what's in there now. Have seen plenty of cautions about mixing fluid types. Any way of figuring out what's in there now? TIA Larry It is most likely DOT3 but I would advise flushing the complete brake system and replacing with fresh fluid. If you want to determine whether it is glycerine based brake fluid (DOT3 & DOT 4) take some of the old fluid and see if water mixes with it; Silicone based fluids (DOT5) do not mix with water. :wq -- The best argument against democracy is a five-minute conversation with the average voter. (Winston Churchill) Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Way OT -- brake fluid
"TD Driver" wrote in message ... I've got a 1952 MGTD. When I put her to bed last fall, the brakes were fine. Now the peddle goes down to the floor. First step is to add brake fluid, but I don't know what's in there now. Have seen plenty of cautions about mixing fluid types. Any way of figuring out what's in there now? TIA Larry In the past 50+ years it may have been mixed or changed, at least. Good chance it is DOT3 or at least can take it. If the pedal goes to the floor after just sitting, most likely you have a bad seal or a brake line corroded through and the fluid should be flushed after the repair anyway. |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Way OT -- brake fluid
Thanks for all the good advice, guys. I'm a woodbutcher, not a
mechanic, and the only time I spend with the MG is when I'm behind the wheel, not under the car. Bad form, I know, but I'd rather be making sawdust than tinkering with the car. I'm gonna take your advice and see if what's in the car mixes with water and then fill 'er up. I just want to run her out to the mechanic for a full brake inspection and let him get to the root of the problem. TD Driver wrote: I've got a 1952 MGTD. When I put her to bed last fall, the brakes were fine. Now the peddle goes down to the floor. First step is to add brake fluid, but I don't know what's in there now. Have seen plenty of cautions about mixing fluid types. Any way of figuring out what's in there now? TIA Larry |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Way OT -- brake fluid
"TD Driver" wrote in message ... Thanks for all the good advice, guys. I'm a woodbutcher, not a mechanic, and the only time I spend with the MG is when I'm behind the wheel, not under the car. Bad form, I know, but I'd rather be making sawdust than tinkering with the car. I'm gonna take your advice and see if what's in the car mixes with water and then fill 'er up. I just want to run her out to the mechanic for a full brake inspection and let him get to the root of the problem. Keep in mind that 1952 cars did not have the dual master cylinders If you have a corroded line, you will have no brakes at all. I just replaced the line on one of my cars last Saturday and it is only 8 years old. If in doubt, call the truck with the hook. |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Way OT -- brake fluid
Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
"TD Driver" wrote in message ... Thanks for all the good advice, guys. I'm a woodbutcher, not a mechanic, and the only time I spend with the MG is when I'm behind the wheel, not under the car. Bad form, I know, but I'd rather be making sawdust than tinkering with the car. I'm gonna take your advice and see if what's in the car mixes with water and then fill 'er up. I just want to run her out to the mechanic for a full brake inspection and let him get to the root of the problem. Keep in mind that 1952 cars did not have the dual master cylinders If you have a corroded line, you will have no brakes at all. I just replaced the line on one of my cars last Saturday and it is only 8 years old. If in doubt, call the truck with the hook. Or, you could just rent a trailer like they have for behind RVs (I am sure that they have a name). |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Way OT -- brake fluid
Norvin wrote:
Edwin Pawlowski wrote: on and let him get to the root of the problem. Keep in mind that 1952 cars did not have the dual master cylinders If you have a corroded line, you will have no brakes at all. I just replaced the line on one of my cars last Saturday and it is only 8 years old. If in doubt, call the truck with the hook. Or, you could just rent a trailer like they have for behind RVs (I am sure that they have a name). Tow dolly. -- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Way OT -- brake fluid
Nova wrote:
.... Tow dolly. What does Dolly say? -- |
#13
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Way OT -- brake fluid
On Apr 24, 2:50*pm, "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:
"TD Driver" wrote in message ... Thanks for all the good advice, guys. *I'm a woodbutcher, not a mechanic, and the only time I spend with the MG is when I'm behind the wheel, not under the car. *Bad form, I know, but I'd rather be making sawdust than tinkering with the car. *I'm gonna take your advice and see if what's in the car mixes with water and then fill 'er up. *I just want to run her out to the mechanic for a full brake inspection and let him get to the root of the problem. Keep in mind that 1952 cars did not have the dual master cylinders *If you have a corroded line, you will have no brakes at all. *I just replaced the line on one of my cars last Saturday and it is only 8 years old. *If in doubt, call the truck with the hook. Good advice. |
#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Way OT -- brake fluid
On Apr 24, 5:24*pm, dpb wrote:
Nova wrote: ... Tow dolly. What does Dolly say? Hello? |
#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Way OT -- brake fluid
"Limp Arbor" wrote in message ... As was already said you most likely have a leak or a bad master cylinder. The seals in a master cylinder can go without showing a leak. Top off the fluid and *gently* pump the pedal to see if you get improvement. A 'bypass' leak of the internal cups in the MC will cause the described symptoms. Instead of pressurizing the lines/cylinders it will simply cause the fluid to re-circulate within the MC. |
#16
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Way OT -- brake fluid
On Apr 25, 1:11*pm, "1D10T" wrote:
"Limp Arbor" wrote in message ... As was already said you most likely have a leak or a bad master cylinder. *The seals in a master cylinder can go without showing a leak. *Top off the fluid and *gently* pump the pedal to see if you get improvement. A 'bypass' leak of the internal cups in the MC will cause the described symptoms. Instead of pressurizing the lines/cylinders it will simply cause the fluid to re-circulate within the MC. You can most often hear it squishing in there as well. The medical people would call that a bruit. I don't know what the big deal is. in college I drove one of my Minis a week with just a parking brake till a part came in. |
#17
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Way OT -- brake fluid
Robatoy wrote:
I don't know what the big deal is. in college I drove one of my Minis a week with just a parking brake till a part came in. I did that with my ugly MustangII. -- -MIKE- "Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life" --Elvin Jones (1927-2004) -- http://mikedrums.com ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply |
#18
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Way OT -- brake fluid
dpb wrote:
Nova wrote: ... Tow dolly. What does Dolly say? -- Tow Tow Tow your car, gently down the road..... |
#19
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Way OT -- brake fluid
-MIKE- wrote:
Robatoy wrote: I don't know what the big deal is. in college I drove one of my Minis a week with just a parking brake till a part came in. I did that with my ugly MustangII. It was easy with my old TR-3. The parking brake lever did not lock until you pushed the button on the end of the lever. I miss that. -- Gerald Ross Cochran, GA It's an Elder Thing -- you wouldn't understand. |
#20
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Way OT -- brake fluid
On 23 Apr, 18:21, TD Driver wrote:
I've got a 1952 MGTD. *When I put her to bed last fall, the brakes were fine. *Now the peddle goes down to the floor. * That's not good, any brake-related not-good counts as very not good and needs proper fixing. You probably don't have a "leak" as such, but rather a failed seal or cup washer on the master cylinder. If these are old, then they're likely to be natural rubber and to have failed simply from age. Your brake fluid (which I guess is DOT 3) has a service life of only a few years (maybe more in Arizona) and ought to be replaced regularly anyway. Chances are (on any car I've ever dealt with) it's already beyond this, so a pre-emptive replacement is warranted anyway. You're also driving a car that uses cheaper fluid than my car, and has brake cylinders that are borderline awkward to replace - so replace fluid before there's any risk of wet fluid causing cylinder corrosion - that's expensive. Your rubber flexi hoses to the front wheels and rear axles are also lifetime limited, and deserve careful inspection as a minimum. It's also a good idea to inspect the rigid pipes. Replace anything looking slightly dubious, but there's no need to replace merely on age. So I think this is really nature's way of telling you you're overdue a full brake service and replacement of the rubber parts and all fluid. Certainly the master cylinder rubbers and front wheel cylinder seals as a minimum! Flush the system through and refill with DOT4. This is an improvement over DOT 3, especially for cars spending a long time in winter storage, and it's cheaper than DOT 5.1. Performance of any of these is all you'll ever need for a T-series - you'll fade the shoes long before the fluid. Don't use DOT 5 (the silicone) as that has some issues of its own. You can do that, and it avoids much of the moisture problem in storage, but you should really be putting it into a new or cleaned system, not filling & flushing. Fixing brake leaks by topping up fluids is by getting you home from a desert, not a maintenance strategy. Leaks in brake systems need attention, no palliative measures. |
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