[[email protected]]

Hi All,

Well, another few hours spent trying to drill the holes for a hinge
so the door fits perfectly. Lately, I've installed a few hinges that
are mostly hidden when the door is closed, don't remember what they
are called. My standard is a perfect fit: Even, Flush, no Sideways
displacement. At All! I can see a jig for drilling if I made the
same hinge joint all the time, but the usual projects are one time
pieces.


You put one side on, then... how do you mark/drill the second half
when the door is closed????? (I can drill pretty accurately if
needed) There must be a trick I'm missing. Any suggestions???


Thanks for the help.

Rich.....

[Leon]

wrote in message
...
Hi All,

Well, another few hours spent trying to drill the holes for a hinge
so the door fits perfectly. Lately, I've installed a few hinges that
are mostly hidden when the door is closed, don't remember what they
are called. My standard is a perfect fit: Even, Flush, no Sideways
displacement. At All! I can see a jig for drilling if I made the
same hinge joint all the time, but the usual projects are one time
pieces.


You put one side on, then... how do you mark/drill the second half
when the door is closed????? (I can drill pretty accurately if
needed) There must be a trick I'm missing. Any suggestions???


Thanks for the help.

Rich.....


Depending on the application, double stick tape and or the thicker carpet
tape works pretty well for holding the hinge in the position that you like
and allows you to carefully reopen the door to drill holes. A properly cut
mortise will also hold the hinge in place. "Vix" bits help greatly in
making sure that the hole that you drill is "exactly" in the center of the
hole in the hinge.

[Robatoy[_2_]]

On Jan 31, 1:11*pm, "Leon" wrote:
wrote in message

...



Hi All,

* Well, another few hours spent trying to drill the holes for a hinge
so the door fits perfectly. *Lately, I've installed a few hinges that
are mostly hidden when the door is closed, don't remember what they
are called. * My standard is a perfect fit: *Even, Flush, no Sideways
displacement. *At All! *I can see a jig for drilling if I made the
same hinge joint all the time, but the usual projects are one time
pieces.

You put one side on, then... how do you mark/drill the second half
when the door is closed????? * (I can drill pretty accurately if
needed) *There must be a trick I'm missing. *Any suggestions???

Thanks for the help.

Rich.....

Depending on the application, double stick tape and or the thicker carpet
tape works pretty well for holding the hinge in the position that you like
and allows you to carefully reopen the door to drill holes. *A properly cut
mortise will also hold the hinge in place. *"Vix" bits help greatly in
making sure that the hole that you drill is "exactly" in the center of the
hole in the hinge.

Hurray for Vix bits. I have cheapo low powered cordless drill with a
#8 Vix in it permanently. I modified the Vix by replacing the drill
bit with a tapered one.
Great for L-brackets, hinges, mending plates. Accept no substitutes.
It would be nice if they made one with a 1/4" hex drive. so I could
pop one in and out of my impact drivers.

[Lee Michaels]

"Robatoy" wrote

Hurray for Vix bits. I have cheapo low powered cordless drill with a
#8 Vix in it permanently. I modified the Vix by replacing the drill
bit with a tapered one.
Great for L-brackets, hinges, mending plates. Accept no substitutes.

It would be nice if they made one with a 1/4" hex drive. so I could
pop one in and out of my impact drivers.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Any possibility of cutting a small peice off of a 1/4 " hex key and welding
it to the vix bit??

Or are the bits too small?

[Robatoy[_2_]]

On Jan 31, 1:57*pm, "Lee Michaels"
wrote:
"Robatoy" *wrote

Hurray for Vix bits. I have cheapo low powered cordless drill with a
#8 Vix in it permanently. I modified the Vix by replacing the drill
bit with a tapered one.
Great for L-brackets, hinges, mending plates. Accept no substitutes.

It would be nice if they made one with a 1/4" hex drive. so I could
pop one in and out of my impact drivers.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Any possibility of cutting a small peice off of a 1/4 " hex key and welding
it to the vix bit??

Or are the bits too small?

I am not sure what metal the upper housing of the Vix bits are made
from, but I looks like non weld-able pot-aluminium-like stuff.
Leon??

I'm still looking to find a small ( 3/8" or smaller) chuck with a 1/4"
hex-shaft base that I can pop in my impact driver. Buying hex-based
drill bits is a non starter. I have yet to find any that are decent.
Every time I see what looks like a small chuck, it is invariably
another proprietary receptacle for some other company's driver bits.

[Leon]

"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
On Jan 31, 1:11 pm, "Leon" wrote:
wrote in message

...

Hurray for Vix bits. I have cheapo low powered cordless drill with a
#8 Vix in it permanently. I modified the Vix by replacing the drill
bit with a tapered one.
Great for L-brackets, hinges, mending plates. Accept no substitutes.
It would be nice if they made one with a 1/4" hex drive. so I could
pop one in and out of my impact drivers.

All of mine are hex drive, I use them in my Makita impact driver. Rockler
has'em.

[Leon]

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...lter=vix%20bit

[Robatoy[_2_]]

On Jan 31, 5:02*pm, "Leon" wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote in message

...
On Jan 31, 1:11 pm, "Leon" wrote: wrote in message

....

Hurray for Vix bits. I have cheapo low powered cordless drill with a
#8 Vix in it permanently. I modified the Vix by replacing the drill
bit with a tapered one.
Great for L-brackets, hinges, mending plates. Accept no substitutes.
It would be nice if they made one with a 1/4" hex drive. so I could
pop one in and out of my impact drivers.

All of mine are hex drive, I use them in my Makita impact driver. *Rockler
has'em.

Oh, cool. Time for an upgrade, eh?

[DanG]

http://www.garrettwade.com/professio.../p/23K01ddd21/

Your dream is come true! It's what I've been using

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Robatoy" wrote in message
...
On Jan 31, 1:57 pm, "Lee Michaels"

wrote:
"Robatoy" wrote

Hurray for Vix bits. I have cheapo low powered cordless drill
with a
#8 Vix in it permanently. I modified the Vix by replacing the
drill
bit with a tapered one.
Great for L-brackets, hinges, mending plates. Accept no
substitutes.

It would be nice if they made one with a 1/4" hex drive. so I
could
pop one in and out of my impact drivers.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Any possibility of cutting a small peice off of a 1/4 " hex key
and welding
it to the vix bit??

Or are the bits too small?

I am not sure what metal the upper housing of the Vix bits are
made
from, but I looks like non weld-able pot-aluminium-like stuff.
Leon??

I'm still looking to find a small ( 3/8" or smaller) chuck with a
1/4"
hex-shaft base that I can pop in my impact driver. Buying
hex-based
drill bits is a non starter. I have yet to find any that are
decent.
Every time I see what looks like a small chuck, it is invariably
another proprietary receptacle for some other company's driver
bits.

[Hammer Hands]

snip
Great for L-brackets, hinges, mending plates. Accept no substitutes.
It would be nice if they made one with a 1/4" hex drive. so I could
pop one in and out of my impact drivers.

I have these from Rockler. They have 1/4" hex shanks.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?Offerings_ID=10610

[John Martin]

On Jan 31, 12:18*pm, wrote:
Hi All,

* *Well, another few hours spent trying to drill the holes for a hinge
so the door fits perfectly. *Lately, I've installed a few hinges that
are mostly hidden when the door is closed, don't remember what they
are called. * My standard is a perfect fit: *Even, Flush, no Sideways
displacement. *At All! *I can see a jig for drilling if I made the
same hinge joint all the time, but the usual projects are one time
pieces.

You put one side on, then... how do you mark/drill the second half
when the door is closed????? * (I can drill pretty accurately if
needed) *There must be a trick I'm missing. *Any suggestions???

Thanks for the help.

Rich.....

You've seen the dowel centers that look like a top hat with a point
pointing downwards from the brim. Put the center in a drilled hole
until it bottoms out against the brim, push the piece to be marked
against the points and tap it to make the marks.

Well, now think of a similar piece with the point coming out of the
top of the hat. Screw the hinge to one piece, insert a couple of
these centers and then close the hinge on them, so that the points
stick out. Put the door in place and tap it to mark the centers.

Or, you could cut off some flat head screws very short and grind or
turn points on the shanks.

Either is pretty easy to do if you have access to a small metal lathe.

John Martin

[[email protected]]

I just found that carpet tape is maybe what I need. The metalworking
wreck reminded me that I used a tape to hold down metal pieces on a
mill for machining. (about a thousand years ago) I guess carpet tape
is strong and thin. Gonna try sum soon.


Those "vix" tools... I think I have some in a kit my SWMBO got me
last year. A Rockler set of taper drills/countersinks that I use all
the time. Never looked at the other stuff in the pouch. Guess I go
and try some practice drilling.


Thanks for the help.....

[Bill T. Ray[_2_]]

It seems no one has mentioned Blum hinges for a solution. They are
European hinges that require a large hole and screw holes. Their main
advantage is that they are adjustable. I used them on an entertainment
center that has a 3 ft. x 18 in. door with a 1/4 in smoked glass
inserted in the oak rails and stiles. It is heavy. The cabinet also
has four smaller oak doors that have blum hinges, but they are much
lighter. All the doors still function wonderfully 20 years after I
made it. My daughter left the door open one night and then ran into it
in the dark. It took me about 5 min to readjust the hinges. I also
like Blum hinges because they are invisible.

With Blum hinges you do not use the hinge for location. You don't need
Vix bits, which I also love for some applications. I did not use a
template to drill the holes. I did buy a cheap plywood jig, but
decided it was worthless and didn't use it. You must be very careful
with location. A good template is expensive. The Blum Ecodrill Hinge
Jig With Bit & Driver is about $250 to $300. I have almost finished a
half dozen standard size book cases (3 ft. x 7 ft.) with the top
shelves open and the bottom with double doors. It is finished except
for the doors. I'm soon to make new kitchen cabinets. I'm considering
buying the blasted Ecodrill jig for these projects. I still have to
talk to my accountant (wife), but she probably knows me well enough
after 30 years to figure I just won't do it if I can't get the tools I
want. We'll see.

Bill

To reply to my email remove NOSPAM and add help in the subject line.













On Sat, 31 Jan 2009 09:18:40 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Hi All,

Well, another few hours spent trying to drill the holes for a hinge
so the door fits perfectly. Lately, I've installed a few hinges that
are mostly hidden when the door is closed, don't remember what they
are called. My standard is a perfect fit: Even, Flush, no Sideways
displacement. At All! I can see a jig for drilling if I made the
same hinge joint all the time, but the usual projects are one time
pieces.


You put one side on, then... how do you mark/drill the second half
when the door is closed????? (I can drill pretty accurately if
needed) There must be a trick I'm missing. Any suggestions???


Thanks for the help.

Rich.....

[Leon]

The only real problem with the Euro style hinges is that your stock/ stile
has to be at least 1.5" wide and at least 1/2" thick. I have probably
installed a thousand of them. You typically do not need any type of
template if you have a drill press and while a vix bit is not necessary,
using one insures that the screws that hold the hinge on to the door remain
flat and not go in at an angle. It is an appearance thing.





"Bill T. Ray" wrote in message
...
It seems no one has mentioned Blum hinges for a solution. They are
European hinges that require a large hole and screw holes. Their main
advantage is that they are adjustable. I used them on an entertainment
center that has a 3 ft. x 18 in. door with a 1/4 in smoked glass
inserted in the oak rails and stiles. It is heavy. The cabinet also
has four smaller oak doors that have blum hinges, but they are much
lighter. All the doors still function wonderfully 20 years after I
made it. My daughter left the door open one night and then ran into it
in the dark. It took me about 5 min to readjust the hinges. I also
like Blum hinges because they are invisible.

With Blum hinges you do not use the hinge for location. You don't need
Vix bits, which I also love for some applications. I did not use a
template to drill the holes. I did buy a cheap plywood jig, but
decided it was worthless and didn't use it. You must be very careful
with location. A good template is expensive. The Blum Ecodrill Hinge
Jig With Bit & Driver is about $250 to $300. I have almost finished a
half dozen standard size book cases (3 ft. x 7 ft.) with the top
shelves open and the bottom with double doors. It is finished except
for the doors. I'm soon to make new kitchen cabinets. I'm considering
buying the blasted Ecodrill jig for these projects. I still have to
talk to my accountant (wife), but she probably knows me well enough
after 30 years to figure I just won't do it if I can't get the tools I
want. We'll see.

Bill

To reply to my email remove NOSPAM and add help in the subject line.













On Sat, 31 Jan 2009 09:18:40 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Hi All,

Well, another few hours spent trying to drill the holes for a hinge
so the door fits perfectly. Lately, I've installed a few hinges that
are mostly hidden when the door is closed, don't remember what they
are called. My standard is a perfect fit: Even, Flush, no Sideways
displacement. At All! I can see a jig for drilling if I made the
same hinge joint all the time, but the usual projects are one time
pieces.


You put one side on, then... how do you mark/drill the second half
when the door is closed????? (I can drill pretty accurately if
needed) There must be a trick I'm missing. Any suggestions???


Thanks for the help.

Rich.....

[Pat Barber]

http://www.ptreeusa.com/drill_products.htm#vixbit

Robatoy wrote:

Hurray for Vix bits.

It would be nice if they made one with a
1/4" hex drive. so I could pop one in and
out of my impact drivers.