[Douglas R. Hortvet, Jr.]

When spraying lacquer, is it recommended to maintain a wet edge - as one would do with
paint - or is it OK to apply mist coats.

Have applied two coats of lacquer and there appear to be a small number of anomalies in
the surface.

Wiped the surface thoroughly with mineral spirits before spraying - temp was approx. 75 F
and the humidity was low, approx. 20%.

Regards,

Doug

[[email protected]]

On Jan 20, 12:27*am, "Douglas R. Hortvet, Jr."
wrote:

When spraying lacquer, is it recommended to maintain a wet edge - as one would do with
paint - or is it OK to apply mist coats.

A mist coat is a misnomer. It is still a full coat, simply thinner
than others. If you don't believe it, mist some finish over your
dried lacquer and take a look at the texture.

Have applied two coats of lacquer and there appear to be a small number of anomalies in
the surface.

OK... white spots, dog hair, orange peel, dog tracks, the face of
Charles Dickens?

Seriously, this is like saying, "I don't think my car is running
right. Can you fix it?"

Wiped the surface thoroughly with mineral spirits before spraying - temp was approx. 75 F
and the humidity was low, approx. 20%.

Was it water based lacquer?

Was it solvent based lacquer?

First problem, mineral spirits. Unless you allow it to dry completely
(depends on conditions) you will get bad spots in your finish where it
will separate. You should clean your surfaces with naptha or better
yet, lacquer thinner. In any even, wait a half hour AFTER you are
SURE it is dry to apply your finish. This is the time you mix your
finish and set up your gun.

With no details, no one can help you. Did you spray from a rattle
can? Did you use high pressure? HVLP? A CAS gun?

Have you sprayed lacquer before?

There are a lot of finishing guys around here, but no one can help you
unless you take some time and properly and completely describe the
problems, what kind of finish you are using and your equipment.

Robert

[Phisherman[_2_]]

On Tue, 20 Jan 2009 00:27:44 -0600, "Douglas R. Hortvet, Jr."
wrote:

When spraying lacquer, is it recommended to maintain a wet edge - as one would do with
paint - or is it OK to apply mist coats.

Have applied two coats of lacquer and there appear to be a small number of anomalies in
the surface.

Wiped the surface thoroughly with mineral spirits before spraying - temp was approx. 75 F
and the humidity was low, approx. 20%.

Regards,

Doug

I found that misting creates a bumpy surface. Lacquer dries very fast
so there is little time for leveling. Best to spray onto a
horizontally flat surface. Your humidity is somewhat low, temperature
OK.

[SonomaProducts.com]

I have found the two tricks to succesful lacquer are first proper
thinning and conditioning, which is different for different days and
different projects and second dual direction lay down (Just my made up
name for the operation.)

Example of lay down on a table top. Spray with overlapping strokes
from one end to the other making sure you get an entire wet surface.
Immediately lay down another coat of overlappig strokes at 90 degrees
to the first strokes. This is most important for non-flat surfaces
where you have moldings or crevices to make sure things are covered
from all angles but also very important for flats too to ensure total
coverage and emough material for flow uot to flat.

Of course proper spray technique, keeping the gun perpendicular to the
surface all through the stroke, not changing the angle at the ends as
is the natural tendenancy. Also, spray lots of test on cardboard or
something that really shows the pattern and loading and tweak the
spray adjestment to get a nice smooth laydown. Keep in mind that you
will lay down two coats so your output can be just about not enough
after one coat.

On hot days use less thinner and maybe flash control additive. On
cooler days thin more but don't spray when it is too cool and use a
blush control additive to let the moisture get out before it is
trapped under the filming surface.

The only time I use "misting" is if ZI have a problem with the laydown
and then I just mist with pure thinner or 90% thinner to try and get
blush out or flatten heat bubbles of wash off flash or overspray
powedreing.


On Jan 19, 10:27*pm, "Douglas R. Hortvet, Jr."
wrote:
When spraying lacquer, is it recommended to maintain a wet edge - as one would do with
paint - or is it OK to apply mist coats.

Have applied two coats of lacquer and there appear to be a small number of anomalies in
the surface.

Wiped the surface thoroughly with mineral spirits before spraying - temp was approx. 75 F
and the humidity was low, approx. 20%.

Regards,

Doug

[doug]

Robert,

Thanks for your reply - should have known to provide more information in the
original post.

As you previously suggested when I inquired about finish recommendations for
red oak, used the shellac sanding sealer and rattle can semi-gloss solvent
based lacquer, brand is Watco.

The surface anomalies appear to be very small circular areas - likely very
small bubbles (?).

The surface is clean to the eye and touch before spraying and the work area,
while not a clean room, is free of loose particulates.

If I use lacquer thinner to wipe the surface of a solvent based lacquer -
will that tend to remove / soften the previous lacquer coat?

Have not previously sprayed lacquer wood finishes - although have done
airbrush painting of models with enamel and lacquer and painted a full size
motorcycle with catalyzed urethane.

From your comment regarding the use of mineral spirits, suspect there may
have been slight residual mineral spirits that caused the indications.

Surface appeared dry - however did not wait a min. half hour before
spraying - although at approx. 20% humidity the mineral spirits appeared to
dry quickly.

Regards,

Doug




wrote in message
...
On Jan 20, 12:27 am, "Douglas R. Hortvet, Jr."
wrote:

When spraying lacquer, is it recommended to maintain a wet edge - as one
would do with
paint - or is it OK to apply mist coats.

A mist coat is a misnomer. It is still a full coat, simply thinner
than others. If you don't believe it, mist some finish over your
dried lacquer and take a look at the texture.

Have applied two coats of lacquer and there appear to be a small number of
anomalies in
the surface.

OK... white spots, dog hair, orange peel, dog tracks, the face of
Charles Dickens?

Seriously, this is like saying, "I don't think my car is running
right. Can you fix it?"

Wiped the surface thoroughly with mineral spirits before spraying - temp
was approx. 75 F
and the humidity was low, approx. 20%.

Was it water based lacquer?

Was it solvent based lacquer?

First problem, mineral spirits. Unless you allow it to dry completely
(depends on conditions) you will get bad spots in your finish where it
will separate. You should clean your surfaces with naptha or better
yet, lacquer thinner. In any even, wait a half hour AFTER you are
SURE it is dry to apply your finish. This is the time you mix your
finish and set up your gun.

With no details, no one can help you. Did you spray from a rattle
can? Did you use high pressure? HVLP? A CAS gun?

Have you sprayed lacquer before?

There are a lot of finishing guys around here, but no one can help you
unless you take some time and properly and completely describe the
problems, what kind of finish you are using and your equipment.

Robert

[[email protected]]

On Jan 20, 3:23 pm, "doug" wrote:

As you previously suggested when I inquired about finish recommendations for
red oak, used the shellac sanding sealer and rattle can semi-gloss solvent
based lacquer, brand is Watco.

Now you're going. Watco rattle can solvent is a good quality finish,
and is now made by Rustoleum. I don't know of a Rustoleum product
that isn't pretty good to excellent. Good choice.

The surface anomalies appear to be very small circular areas -
likely very
small bubbles (?).

Since rattle can lacquers don't need to be shaken, we can rule out
infusion of bubbles from the can.

Given the facts you described, I would GUESS, - key word there - that
the bubbles were due to the mineral spirits continuing to "outgas' or
dry under the lacquer. The lacquer has a much higher
VOC content and will skin over rapidly.

Any remaining heavier oils (lower VOC) that is in the wood will
continue to outgas, but at a slower rate. The gas is trapped under
the drying skin, and then you have bubbles since the gas has no where
to go but out. Leetle bitty ones.

But the gas has to go out, right? I won't stay trapped, that's for
sure. And since mineral spirits are much lower VOCs than the one
found in lacquer, you may have the culprit.

The surface is clean to the eye and touch before spraying and the work area,
while not a clean room, is free of loose particulates.

That would support my best guess above.

If I use lacquer thinner to wipe the surface of a solvent based lacquer -
will that tend to remove / soften the previous lacquer coat?

NO! You will have a mess you cannot fix unless you are ready to belt
sand your project! This is what I would do (YMMV, right?):

1) sand the surfaces in question as smooth as possible

2) Brush the surfaces as clean as possible, then blow them off with
your compressor and and nozzle.

3) Clean the surfaces with naptha. It isn't as hot as lacquer
thinner, so if you are fast with just enough naptha to get your tack
cloth damp, you can get your surface clean with no surface melting

4) Apply a coat of lacquer (not sanding sealer) and allow to dry 24
hours. Remember, you are repairing a damaged finish, not starting a
new one. Be patient.

5) Sand this coat as smooth as possible. Still see the bubbles?
Sand, clean, and repeat #4. Don't forget to wait the 24 hours. This
allows the resins to harden enough to make your sanding cleaner with
less tiny scratches, and help prevent "pilling"

6) When you are smooth, apply another coat or two to get the desired
finish and call it a day

Have not previously sprayed lacquer wood finishes - although have done
airbrush painting of models with enamel and lacquer and painted a full size
motorcycle with catalyzed urethane.

Same principles. You are probably just a little off track in your
prep.

Surface appeared dry - however did not wait a min. half hour before
spraying - although at approx. 20% humidity the mineral spirits appeared to
dry quickly.

Me and mineral spirits have a frustrating, checkered past. In some
cases, it can prevent good adhesion and even sabotage finishes that is
is actually used to thin. I will use it as a thinner or a brush
cleaner, but nothing else.

It is thin enough to get surprising penetration into wood, but it
doesn't wick away and evaporate quickly leaving you to guess what you
will have under your finish when using it as a cleaner.

And if you have uneven amounts on your cleaning rag (like a wet corner
or side) you can even see your cleaning stroke marks when dying wood
or with some clear finishes. This is particularly true when
refinishing. Imagine my horror (nothing less...) when I saw this
happen on an antique mahogany door I refinished.

I was so embarrassed I stripped it, dyed it, and refinished it again
on my nickel.

Good luck, Doug. Let us know how you come out.

Robert

[doug]

Robert,

Thanks! for the excellent advice.

Appears the problem was self induced - really hate it when that happens.

However, now I know better and will no longer use mineral spirits as a wide
down aid.

What is the preferred method for spraying lacquer from a rattle can?

I understand to not apply heavy coats - just not sure if maintaining a wet
edge when spraying is considered a heavy application.

There are no doubt degrees of wet edge - and will have to learn the best
application method in the school of hard knocks.

Thanks again for the benefit of your experiences.

Regards,

Doug


wrote in message
...
On Jan 20, 3:23 pm, "doug" wrote:

As you previously suggested when I inquired about finish recommendations
for
red oak, used the shellac sanding sealer and rattle can semi-gloss
solvent
based lacquer, brand is Watco.

Now you're going. Watco rattle can solvent is a good quality finish,
and is now made by Rustoleum. I don't know of a Rustoleum product
that isn't pretty good to excellent. Good choice.

The surface anomalies appear to be very small circular areas -
likely very
small bubbles (?).

Since rattle can lacquers don't need to be shaken, we can rule out
infusion of bubbles from the can.

Given the facts you described, I would GUESS, - key word there - that
the bubbles were due to the mineral spirits continuing to "outgas' or
dry under the lacquer. The lacquer has a much higher
VOC content and will skin over rapidly.

Any remaining heavier oils (lower VOC) that is in the wood will
continue to outgas, but at a slower rate. The gas is trapped under
the drying skin, and then you have bubbles since the gas has no where
to go but out. Leetle bitty ones.

But the gas has to go out, right? I won't stay trapped, that's for
sure. And since mineral spirits are much lower VOCs than the one
found in lacquer, you may have the culprit.

The surface is clean to the eye and touch before spraying and the work
area,
while not a clean room, is free of loose particulates.

That would support my best guess above.

If I use lacquer thinner to wipe the surface of a solvent based lacquer -
will that tend to remove / soften the previous lacquer coat?

NO! You will have a mess you cannot fix unless you are ready to belt
sand your project! This is what I would do (YMMV, right?):

1) sand the surfaces in question as smooth as possible

2) Brush the surfaces as clean as possible, then blow them off with
your compressor and and nozzle.

3) Clean the surfaces with naptha. It isn't as hot as lacquer
thinner, so if you are fast with just enough naptha to get your tack
cloth damp, you can get your surface clean with no surface melting

4) Apply a coat of lacquer (not sanding sealer) and allow to dry 24
hours. Remember, you are repairing a damaged finish, not starting a
new one. Be patient.

5) Sand this coat as smooth as possible. Still see the bubbles?
Sand, clean, and repeat #4. Don't forget to wait the 24 hours. This
allows the resins to harden enough to make your sanding cleaner with
less tiny scratches, and help prevent "pilling"

6) When you are smooth, apply another coat or two to get the desired
finish and call it a day

Have not previously sprayed lacquer wood finishes - although have done
airbrush painting of models with enamel and lacquer and painted a full
size
motorcycle with catalyzed urethane.

Same principles. You are probably just a little off track in your
prep.

Surface appeared dry - however did not wait a min. half hour before
spraying - although at approx. 20% humidity the mineral spirits appeared
to
dry quickly.

Me and mineral spirits have a frustrating, checkered past. In some
cases, it can prevent good adhesion and even sabotage finishes that is
is actually used to thin. I will use it as a thinner or a brush
cleaner, but nothing else.

It is thin enough to get surprising penetration into wood, but it
doesn't wick away and evaporate quickly leaving you to guess what you
will have under your finish when using it as a cleaner.

And if you have uneven amounts on your cleaning rag (like a wet corner
or side) you can even see your cleaning stroke marks when dying wood
or with some clear finishes. This is particularly true when
refinishing. Imagine my horror (nothing less...) when I saw this
happen on an antique mahogany door I refinished.

I was so embarrassed I stripped it, dyed it, and refinished it again
on my nickel.

Good luck, Doug. Let us know how you come out.

Robert

[[email protected]]

On Jan 20, 7:04 pm, "doug" wrote:
Robert,

Thanks! for the excellent advice.

Glad to be of some help, Doug.

Appears the problem was self induced - really hate it when that happens.

Read on....

I understand to not apply heavy coats - just not sure if maintaining a wet
edge when spraying is considered a heavy application.

When you spray lacquer, you may need to spray more material than you
think to get a professional grade finish. Most solvent lacquer
recommended applications are in the 3 mil range wet, which will dry to
+/- 1 mil dry. It is so accepted, it's almost universal. If you
don't have a painter's mil gauge, try to spray the thickness of a
dollar bill. It's about right.

If you are spraying less, especially consider the low humidity, you
may starve the previous coats of the ability to resolvate (blend) into
the the new coat, as well as negate to the new coat's ability to
dissolve the fine lacquer dust overspray.

There are no doubt degrees of wet edge - and will have to learn the best
application method in the school of hard knocks.

Thanks again for the benefit of your experiences.

Like I said earlier, I am glad to be of help. I have had to learn a
lot of this stuff the hard way, the expensive way, and the frustrating
way.

Once you really get in the middle of it, you realize the complexity of
it all and understand the finishing is a craft unto itself.

Anyway, good on 'ya for not giving up and getting back in there to fix
your minor (remember... everything is relative!) mistake.

Check out this link for some good info. At the bottom third of the
page is a good, illustrated description of how to spray.

Note the illustration of keeping your wrist perpendicular to the
work. VERY important. No arcing, no other movement should be there;
your arm should look like it is going back and forth on a rail when
you spray.

It will also tell you to adjust the spray pressure. Obviously, you
can't do that with a rattle can. The way you adjust pressure from a
rattle can in regards to the disbursement of the material is to find
how far from the target you hold the can.
In this case, depending on the nozzle, it could be anywhere from 6" to
10", again, depending on the nozzle.

Practice your distance and pattern on a piece of finished cardboard.
You know, the shiny stuff with the color pictures on it like appliance
boxes. Don't bother practicing on a brown, cardboard box. It will
absorb your solvents so fast you will never get an accurate read on
your pattern.

Once again, good luck.

Hey... don't you owe us a picture from last time?

;^)

Robert

[[email protected]]

On Jan 20, 11:36*pm, "
wrote:

Check out this link for some good info. *At the bottom third of the
page is a good, illustrated description of how to spray.

Jeez... I can't even keep my train of thought to the bathroom and
back...

The link:

http://www.rentrain.com/content/1/56/280

Remember, the bottom third "for excellent results" sis what you are
looking for on this page.

Robert

[Douglas R. Hortvet, Jr.]

Robert,

Again - this is invaluable advice and greatly appreciated.

" wrote:

On Jan 20, 7:04 pm, "doug" wrote:
Robert,

Thanks! for the excellent advice.

Glad to be of some help, Doug.

Appears the problem was self induced - really hate it when that happens.

Read on....

I understand to not apply heavy coats - just not sure if maintaining a wet
edge when spraying is considered a heavy application.

When you spray lacquer, you may need to spray more material than you
think to get a professional grade finish. Most solvent lacquer
recommended applications are in the 3 mil range wet, which will dry to
+/- 1 mil dry. It is so accepted, it's almost universal. If you
don't have a painter's mil gauge, try to spray the thickness of a
dollar bill. It's about right.

If you are spraying less, especially consider the low humidity, you
may starve the previous coats of the ability to resolvate (blend) into
the the new coat, as well as negate to the new coat's ability to
dissolve the fine lacquer dust overspray.

When spraying the lacquer, I placed a bright light so I could clearly see the reflection
off the wood's surface, and see whether the material was going on light or too heavy.
Luckily got no runs - may have been too light on a pass or two.

Low humidity down here (Houston) is not the norm - although the past several weeks we have
been getting regular cold fronts through that drop the humidity way down. 20% RH is
really rare.


There are no doubt degrees of wet edge - and will have to learn the best
application method in the school of hard knocks.

Thanks again for the benefit of your experiences.

Like I said earlier, I am glad to be of help. I have had to learn a
lot of this stuff the hard way, the expensive way, and the frustrating
way.

Once you really get in the middle of it, you realize the complexity of
it all and understand the finishing is a craft unto itself.

Anyway, good on 'ya for not giving up and getting back in there to fix
your minor (remember... everything is relative!) mistake.

Need to get this finished - and done right, best I can - it is part of a present for my
dad.


Check out this link for some good info. At the bottom third of the
page is a good, illustrated description of how to spray.

Note the illustration of keeping your wrist perpendicular to the
work. VERY important. No arcing, no other movement should be there;
your arm should look like it is going back and forth on a rail when
you spray.

I did move the can parallel to the work piece surface, as I watched the wet edge progress
- so remembered something from the past.

Results should be more rewarding next coat as mineral spirits will not be used for
cleaning.


It will also tell you to adjust the spray pressure. Obviously, you
can't do that with a rattle can. The way you adjust pressure from a
rattle can in regards to the disbursement of the material is to find
how far from the target you hold the can.
In this case, depending on the nozzle, it could be anywhere from 6" to
10", again, depending on the nozzle.

Practice your distance and pattern on a piece of finished cardboard.
You know, the shiny stuff with the color pictures on it like appliance
boxes. Don't bother practicing on a brown, cardboard box. It will
absorb your solvents so fast you will never get an accurate read on
your pattern.

Once again, good luck.

Hey... don't you owe us a picture from last time?

;^)

Robert

Can sure provide a picture - where should these be posted?

Any required limitations on file size?

Best Regards,

Doug

[Douglas R. Hortvet, Jr.]

Thank You for the reply.

20% humidity is rare in Houston - although the regular colds fronts making their way down
here lately - much lower than normal humidity has been somewhat routine.

Using a can there is no way to adjust the material for temperature and humidity - per the
instructions the temperature should be above 55 F - the high end is not a factor now.

Recalled from the instructions for paining models to first apply light mist coats, to
facilitate adhesion. Once these are dry - go back and spray a full color coat.

Thanks again for your helpful comments.

Regards,

Doug

Phisherman wrote:

On Tue, 20 Jan 2009 00:27:44 -0600, "Douglas R. Hortvet, Jr."
wrote:

When spraying lacquer, is it recommended to maintain a wet edge - as one would do with
paint - or is it OK to apply mist coats.

Have applied two coats of lacquer and there appear to be a small number of anomalies in
the surface.

Wiped the surface thoroughly with mineral spirits before spraying - temp was approx. 75 F
and the humidity was low, approx. 20%.

Regards,

Doug

I found that misting creates a bumpy surface. Lacquer dries very fast
so there is little time for leveling. Best to spray onto a
horizontally flat surface. Your humidity is somewhat low, temperature
OK.

[Douglas R. Hortvet, Jr.]

Thanks for the detailed comments!

"SonomaProducts.com" wrote:

I have found the two tricks to succesful lacquer are first proper
thinning and conditioning, which is different for different days and
different projects and second dual direction lay down (Just my made up
name for the operation.)

Since I am using a rattle can - thinning and conditioning are not options - must make do
with the material as is.


Example of lay down on a table top. Spray with overlapping strokes
from one end to the other making sure you get an entire wet surface.
Immediately lay down another coat of overlappig strokes at 90 degrees
to the first strokes. This is most important for non-flat surfaces
where you have moldings or crevices to make sure things are covered
from all angles but also very important for flats too to ensure total
coverage and emough material for flow uot to flat.

Would using this technique be a problem if the first passes were already mostly dry /
tacky?

The work piece is flat and approx. 7" x 18" - rather small, and have been spraying along
the long direction.


Of course proper spray technique, keeping the gun perpendicular to the
surface all through the stroke, not changing the angle at the ends as
is the natural tendenancy. Also, spray lots of test on cardboard or
something that really shows the pattern and loading and tweak the
spray adjestment to get a nice smooth laydown. Keep in mind that you
will lay down two coats so your output can be just about not enough
after one coat.

On hot days use less thinner and maybe flash control additive. On
cooler days thin more but don't spray when it is too cool and use a
blush control additive to let the moisture get out before it is
trapped under the filming surface.

The only time I use "misting" is if ZI have a problem with the laydown
and then I just mist with pure thinner or 90% thinner to try and get
blush out or flatten heat bubbles of wash off flash or overspray
powedreing.

Will sure remember this - although would have to upgrade from using rattle cans!

Thanks again.

Regards,

Doug




On Jan 19, 10:27*pm, "Douglas R. Hortvet, Jr."
wrote:
When spraying lacquer, is it recommended to maintain a wet edge - as one would do with
paint - or is it OK to apply mist coats.

Have applied two coats of lacquer and there appear to be a small number of anomalies in
the surface.

Wiped the surface thoroughly with mineral spirits before spraying - temp was approx. 75 F
and the humidity was low, approx. 20%.

Regards,

Doug

[[email protected]]

On Jan 21, 1:15*am, "Douglas R. Hortvet, Jr."
wrote:

When spraying the lacquer, I placed a bright light so I could clearly see the reflection
off the wood's surface, and see whether the material was going on light or too heavy.

Great technique. This is called a "rake light", and for that purpose
I have 4 sets of "two on a stand" adjustables on hand for use when I
am painting or finishing. They are good even in the daytime.


Low humidity down here (Houston) is not the norm - although the past several weeks we have
been getting regular cold fronts through that drop the humidity way down. *20% RH is
really rare.

Hey... you're over there with Swing and Leon. I am up the road in San
Antonio, a scant 210 miles away. Similar weather here this week, and
the Chamber of Commerce couldn't invent better weather. Clear sunny
skies and 72 today. 70 tomorrow.

Need to get this finished - and done right, best I can - it is part of a present for my
dad.

Anything else comes up, post away. I think you are over the hump,
though.


Can sure provide a picture - where should these be posted?

Any required limitations on file size?

I would say go with any of the free services. At the barbecue forum,
they like Imageshack. At the knife forum, they like flikr and
photobucket. All have free areas. There are lots of them
available.

Your ISP may even have some space set aside for you. Just post the
link here to the pics and we'll find them.

Robert

[dadiOH[_3_]]

doug wrote:

The surface anomalies appear to be very small circular areas - likely
very small bubbles (?).

The surface is clean to the eye and touch before spraying and the
work area, while not a clean room, is free of loose particulates.

If I use lacquer thinner to wipe the surface of a solvent based
lacquer - will that tend to remove / soften the previous lacquer coat?

No, it won't "tend" to soften/remove the lacquer it WILL do so.

You didn't say what you were spraying. If it is small enough, try this to
perhaps fix your problem...

1. spray a wet coat

2. put it in a closed box, small as possible

3. let it sit for an hour or two.

The new wet coat dissolves/blends with the previous messed up finish. The
closed box slows drying time to enable the dissolving/blending. If it
doesn't work, just sand the messed up surface smooth and spray again.

BTW, the closed box thing is also useful if you get blushing. "Blushing" is
a whitish appearance on what you sprayed and is caused by trapped moisture.
It occurs mostly during periods of high humidity and is caused because the
can propellant (LPG) cools the lacquer when it (the propellant) goes from
liquid to gas and that causes condensation.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

[EXT]

To get an idea of how lacquer reacts with mineral spirits try accidentally
mixing the two. My experience is that lacquer thinner will thin oil base
paints with usually no problems but mix mineral spirits with lacquer will
cause it to curdle. So when finishing with lacquer, you really don't want
any trace of mineral spirits to damage your finish.


"doug" wrote in message
netamerica...
Robert,

Thanks for your reply - should have known to provide more information in
the original post.

As you previously suggested when I inquired about finish recommendations
for red oak, used the shellac sanding sealer and rattle can semi-gloss
solvent based lacquer, brand is Watco.

The surface anomalies appear to be very small circular areas - likely very
small bubbles (?).

The surface is clean to the eye and touch before spraying and the work
area, while not a clean room, is free of loose particulates.

If I use lacquer thinner to wipe the surface of a solvent based lacquer -
will that tend to remove / soften the previous lacquer coat?

Have not previously sprayed lacquer wood finishes - although have done
airbrush painting of models with enamel and lacquer and painted a full
size motorcycle with catalyzed urethane.

From your comment regarding the use of mineral spirits, suspect there may
have been slight residual mineral spirits that caused the indications.

Surface appeared dry - however did not wait a min. half hour before
spraying - although at approx. 20% humidity the mineral spirits appeared
to dry quickly.

Regards,

Doug




wrote in message
...
On Jan 20, 12:27 am, "Douglas R. Hortvet, Jr."
wrote:

When spraying lacquer, is it recommended to maintain a wet edge - as one
would do with
paint - or is it OK to apply mist coats.

A mist coat is a misnomer. It is still a full coat, simply thinner
than others. If you don't believe it, mist some finish over your
dried lacquer and take a look at the texture.

Have applied two coats of lacquer and there appear to be a small number
of anomalies in
the surface.

OK... white spots, dog hair, orange peel, dog tracks, the face of
Charles Dickens?

Seriously, this is like saying, "I don't think my car is running
right. Can you fix it?"

Wiped the surface thoroughly with mineral spirits before spraying - temp
was approx. 75 F
and the humidity was low, approx. 20%.

Was it water based lacquer?

Was it solvent based lacquer?

First problem, mineral spirits. Unless you allow it to dry completely
(depends on conditions) you will get bad spots in your finish where it
will separate. You should clean your surfaces with naptha or better
yet, lacquer thinner. In any even, wait a half hour AFTER you are
SURE it is dry to apply your finish. This is the time you mix your
finish and set up your gun.

With no details, no one can help you. Did you spray from a rattle
can? Did you use high pressure? HVLP? A CAS gun?

Have you sprayed lacquer before?

There are a lot of finishing guys around here, but no one can help you
unless you take some time and properly and completely describe the
problems, what kind of finish you are using and your equipment.

Robert

[B A R R Y]

Douglas R. Hortvet, Jr. wrote:
When spraying lacquer, is it recommended to maintain a wet edge - as one would do with
paint - or is it OK to apply mist coats.

With standard nitrocellulose lacquer, you can "flow coat" it with a
highly thinned coat that will remelt the existing coating into a very
smooth surface.

[Robatoy[_2_]]

On Jan 22, 7:33*pm, B A R R Y wrote:
Douglas R. Hortvet, Jr. wrote:

When spraying lacquer, is it recommended to maintain a wet edge - as one would do with
paint - or is it OK to apply mist coats.

With standard nitrocellulose lacquer, you can "flow coat" it with a
highly thinned coat that will remelt the existing coating into a very
smooth surface.

Yup... that is the ONE thing that bugs me about WB lacquers. No
melting.
That, and not catching a buzz during the cleaning of the
guns....*sworf*

[B A R R Y]

Robatoy wrote:

Yup... that is the ONE thing that bugs me about WB lacquers. No
melting.

Me too...

There _is_ enough melting for rub-out, but far from enough for true flow
coating.

That, and not catching a buzz during the cleaning of the
guns....*sworf*

That is such a *guy* smell. I love that smell! For hours and hours
after the real solvent is gone. My wife freaks out about "that smell"...

Then again, I like the smell of burnt Avgas, burnt Racing gas at the
track, and burnt JetA, while it makes the ol' lady sick!

WB just doesn't have the attraction...

[Steve Turner]

B A R R Y wrote:
Robatoy wrote:

Yup... that is the ONE thing that bugs me about WB lacquers. No
melting.

Me too...

There _is_ enough melting for rub-out, but far from enough for true flow
coating.

That, and not catching a buzz during the cleaning of the
guns....*sworf*

That is such a *guy* smell. I love that smell! For hours and hours
after the real solvent is gone. My wife freaks out about "that smell"...

Then again, I like the smell of burnt Avgas, burnt Racing gas at the
track, and burnt JetA, while it makes the ol' lady sick!

All quite nice, I'm sure. What I like is the smell of boats... that
"marina" smell. What is it that makes it so unique? Oil and gasoline
mixed with fishy stink? I've never been able to figure it out.

--
See Nad. See Nad go. Go Nad!
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