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Default Footlocker Design

My son is going to Boy Scout Camp in mid June. They ask that each boy
have a footlocker. They said to just pick one up at WallyWorld or
Kmart.

I went to look at what they had to offer and wasn't particularly
impressed.

So, I figured I'd just cobble up a footlocker.

I have some half inch cherry ply left over from a job and some nice
brass hardware left over from a different job. I figure I can make
this thing with no outlay.

My thought was that I would use finger joints in the corners, house
the bottom in a plough, lay the top in a rabbet, and that would make a
decent enclosure.

Then I figured I'd put a pinrail on the inside and sit a divided tray
on it.

Has anyone made one of these before? I'd hate to build something
stupid because I didn't ask enough questions about it.



Regards,

Tom

Thos.J.Watson - Cabinetmaker
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet
www.home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1
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Default Footlocker Design


"Tom Watson" wrote in message
news
My son is going to Boy Scout Camp in mid June. They ask that each boy
have a footlocker. They said to just pick one up at WallyWorld or
Kmart.

I went to look at what they had to offer and wasn't particularly
impressed.

So, I figured I'd just cobble up a footlocker.

I have some half inch cherry ply left over from a job and some nice
brass hardware left over from a different job. I figure I can make
this thing with no outlay.

My thought was that I would use finger joints in the corners, house
the bottom in a plough, lay the top in a rabbet, and that would make a
decent enclosure.

Then I figured I'd put a pinrail on the inside and sit a divided tray
on it.

Has anyone made one of these before? I'd hate to build something
stupid because I didn't ask enough questions about it.



Regards,

Tom

Thos.J.Watson - Cabinetmaker
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet
www.home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1


think about weight of the empty carcass.

a lot.

also, think about corner damage. they tend to get dropped and jumped on.

some sort of locking mechanism.

don't forget the secret compartment.


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Default Footlocker Design


"Tom Watson" wrote in message
news
My son is going to Boy Scout Camp in mid June. They ask that each boy
have a footlocker. They said to just pick one up at WallyWorld or
Kmart.

I went to look at what they had to offer and wasn't particularly
impressed.

So, I figured I'd just cobble up a footlocker.

I have some half inch cherry ply left over from a job and some nice
brass hardware left over from a different job. I figure I can make
this thing with no outlay.

My thought was that I would use finger joints in the corners, house
the bottom in a plough, lay the top in a rabbet, and that would make a
decent enclosure.

Then I figured I'd put a pinrail on the inside and sit a divided tray
on it.

Has anyone made one of these before? I'd hate to build something
stupid because I didn't ask enough questions about it.



Hey Tom,

Like Charlie mentioned you may want to think about weight. Wood would be
very cool unless it was heavy and had to be moved around by a young'en. We
always used a plastic container that resembled a large ice chest except with
out the insulation. A big plus is that they are water resistant, rain is not
a problem. Usually you can find these in the larger sporting goods stores.
Just a thought.


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Default Footlocker Design



"Tom Watson" wrote
My thought was that I would use finger joints in the corners, house
the bottom in a plough, lay the top in a rabbet, and that would make a
decent enclosure.

Then I figured I'd put a pinrail on the inside and sit a divided tray
on it.

Has anyone made one of these before? I'd hate to build something
stupid because I didn't ask enough questions about it.


I've used my old, original Vietnam era wooden Army footlocker for portable
microphone storage for over thirty years, and the two 1x1 "runners"
(spanning front to back on the bottom panel, and spaced a couple inches in
from each side), are a nice touch to keep the footlocker bottom off the
ground and high and dry.

I would consider this "feature" mandatory for a scout camp footlocker and
something you might want to consider in your design.

FWIW ...

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 5/14/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)






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Default Footlocker Design


"Tom Watson" wrote in message
news
My son is going to Boy Scout Camp in mid June. They ask that each boy
have a footlocker. They said to just pick one up at WallyWorld or
Kmart.

I went to look at what they had to offer and wasn't particularly
impressed.

So, I figured I'd just cobble up a footlocker.

I have some half inch cherry ply left over from a job and some nice
brass hardware left over from a different job. I figure I can make
this thing with no outlay.

My thought was that I would use finger joints in the corners, house
the bottom in a plough, lay the top in a rabbet, and that would make a
decent enclosure.

Then I figured I'd put a pinrail on the inside and sit a divided tray
on it.

Has anyone made one of these before? I'd hate to build something
stupid because I didn't ask enough questions about it.


What do you think the tare weight will end up being?

Dave in Houston




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Default Footlocker Design

On Thu, 29 May 2008 18:51:59 -0500, "Swingman" wrote:



"Tom Watson" wrote
My thought was that I would use finger joints in the corners, house
the bottom in a plough, lay the top in a rabbet, and that would make a
decent enclosure.

Then I figured I'd put a pinrail on the inside and sit a divided tray
on it.

Has anyone made one of these before? I'd hate to build something
stupid because I didn't ask enough questions about it.


I've used my old, original Vietnam era wooden Army footlocker for portable
microphone storage for over thirty years, and the two 1x1 "runners"
(spanning front to back on the bottom panel, and spaced a couple inches in
from each side), are a nice touch to keep the footlocker bottom off the
ground and high and dry.

I would consider this "feature" mandatory for a scout camp footlocker and
something you might want to consider in your design.

FWIW ...



The three Tejas boys chimed in within five minutes of each other. Are
y'all playing cards together tonight?

Thanks for the tips. They're some gooduns.



Regards,

Tom

Thos.J.Watson - Cabinetmaker
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet
www.home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1
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Default Footlocker Design

On Thu, 29 May 2008 16:08:26 -0700, "charlie"
wrote:


"Tom Watson" wrote in message
news
My son is going to Boy Scout Camp in mid June. They ask that each boy
have a footlocker. They said to just pick one up at WallyWorld or
Kmart.

I went to look at what they had to offer and wasn't particularly
impressed.

So, I figured I'd just cobble up a footlocker.

I have some half inch cherry ply left over from a job and some nice
brass hardware left over from a different job. I figure I can make
this thing with no outlay.

My thought was that I would use finger joints in the corners, house
the bottom in a plough, lay the top in a rabbet, and that would make a
decent enclosure.

Then I figured I'd put a pinrail on the inside and sit a divided tray
on it.

Has anyone made one of these before? I'd hate to build something
stupid because I didn't ask enough questions about it.



Regards,

Tom

Thos.J.Watson - Cabinetmaker
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet
www.home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1


think about weight of the empty carcass.

a lot.

also, think about corner damage. they tend to get dropped and jumped on.

some sort of locking mechanism.

don't forget the secret compartment.



I like that secret compartment idea.

Thanks.



Regards,

Tom

Thos.J.Watson - Cabinetmaker
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet
www.home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1
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Default Footlocker Design

In article ,
"Leon" wrote:

"Tom Watson" wrote in message
news
My son is going to Boy Scout Camp in mid June. They ask that each boy
have a footlocker.

(snippage)

So, I figured I'd just cobble up a footlocker.

I have some half inch cherry ply left over from a job and some nice
brass hardware left over from a different job. I figure I can make
this thing with no outlay.

My thought was that I would use finger joints in the corners, house
the bottom in a plough, lay the top in a rabbet, and that would make a
decent enclosure.

Then I figured I'd put a pinrail on the inside and sit a divided tray
on it.

Has anyone made one of these before? I'd hate to build something
stupid because I didn't ask enough questions about it.


Hey Tom,

Like Charlie mentioned you may want to think about weight. Wood would be
very cool unless it was heavy and had to be moved around by a young'en. We
always used a plastic container that resembled a large ice chest except with
out the insulation. A big plus is that they are water resistant, rain is not
a problem. Usually you can find these in the larger sporting goods stores.
Just a thought.


I'll second the "big plastic box" idea. Wally world and similar often
have something of that sort in the general region of automotive cruft
that they claim is a toolbox or some such. My mother, who retired from
being a missionary around a year ago, recommended one of them when I
visited her as they are sturdy, hold a lot, and don't weigh that
much--all concerns for international air travel. The fact that they're
pretty inexpensive is also a plus.

There's a reasonably detailed couple of articles on "Making one's own
steamer and wardrobe trunks" in the fourth of the (original) Popular
Mechanics Boy Mechanic series, such as Lee Valley has available as a
reprint (pages 328-329 and 331-333). It appears from google books that
it's also in the modern edition reorganized from the originals (pages
51-57). Their basic design uses 1/2" plywood or boards, butt jointed to
form a box, glued and nailed, and then sawn asunder to form a chest and
a top. The outside is covered in heavy fabric glued on (theatrical
"scenic linen"--probably canvas?), the opening reinforced with
essentially angle iron pieces, and 2" x 1/4" slats attached at the edges
and across the faces for reinforcement.

--
Andrew Erickson

"He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain that which he cannot
lose." -- Jim Elliot
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Default Footlocker Design

I still got mine left over from vietnam.............. I'll take pictures of
it for you if you want!

Let me know~



"Tom Watson" wrote in message
news
My son is going to Boy Scout Camp in mid June. They ask that each boy
have a footlocker. They said to just pick one up at WallyWorld or
Kmart.

I went to look at what they had to offer and wasn't particularly
impressed.

So, I figured I'd just cobble up a footlocker.

I have some half inch cherry ply left over from a job and some nice
brass hardware left over from a different job. I figure I can make
this thing with no outlay.

My thought was that I would use finger joints in the corners, house
the bottom in a plough, lay the top in a rabbet, and that would make a
decent enclosure.

Then I figured I'd put a pinrail on the inside and sit a divided tray
on it.

Has anyone made one of these before? I'd hate to build something
stupid because I didn't ask enough questions about it.



Regards,

Tom

Thos.J.Watson - Cabinetmaker
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet
www.home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1



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Default Footlocker Design


"Tom Watson" wrote in message
news
My son is going to Boy Scout Camp in mid June. They ask that each boy
have a footlocker. They said to just pick one up at WallyWorld or
Kmart.

I went to look at what they had to offer and wasn't particularly
impressed.

So, I figured I'd just cobble up a footlocker.

I have some half inch cherry ply left over from a job and some nice
brass hardware left over from a different job. I figure I can make
this thing with no outlay.

My thought was that I would use finger joints in the corners, house
the bottom in a plough, lay the top in a rabbet, and that would make a
decent enclosure.

Then I figured I'd put a pinrail on the inside and sit a divided tray
on it.

Has anyone made one of these before? I'd hate to build something
stupid because I didn't ask enough questions about it.



Tom,

I made a couple half-trunks for my sons to take to Scout camp... After a
week in a tent I needed to refinish both. As an after-thought entered them
in a couple shows... after winning ribbons for them twice I'm not sure I
want them going back to camp but they are my sons' now! See ABPW.

John



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Default Footlocker Design

On May 29, 6:03*pm, Tom Watson wrote:
My son is going to Boy Scout Camp in mid June. *They ask that each boy
have a footlocker. *They said to just pick one up at WallyWorld or
Kmart.

I went to look at what they had to offer and wasn't particularly
impressed.

So, I figured I'd just cobble up a footlocker.

I have some half inch cherry ply left over from a job and some nice
brass hardware left over from a different job. *I figure I can make
this thing with no outlay.

My thought was that I would use finger joints in the corners, house
the bottom in a plough, lay the top in a rabbet, and that would make a
decent enclosure.

Then I figured I'd put a pinrail on the inside and sit a divided tray
on it.

Has anyone made one of these before? *I'd hate to build something
stupid because I didn't ask enough questions about it.

Regards,

Tom

Thos.J.Watson - Cabinetmaker
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnetwww.home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1


Tom,
My boy is a few years ahead of yours on the scouting trail. He'll be
working on his Eagle project this summer. I wouldn't waste good
cherry ply on anything for scouts to use. Regardless of your boy's
highly tuned appreciation for fine things and the work you and he will
put into his foot locker, the boys loading the truck will see it as
just another piece of cargo. It will come back looking like it's been
dragged down a gravel road behind a pickup. If you must build a
footlocker, use something cheap. Use 1/2 ply. It's strong enough to
sit on, but light enough to carry. I built some patrol boxes that
have held up pretty well except for the gouges in every surface.
Overall dimensions should be somewhere around 18 X 18 X 32 so it will
stack well with the other boxes in the truck.

Rubbermaid makes an "Action Packer" in several sizes. The 35 gallon
one sells for about $70. It is water-proof, impact-resistant and
almost scout-proof. It's pretty much standard fare for scout camp.
Resist the urge to get the bigger 48 gallon one. Scoutmasters hate
them cause they take up so much room in the truck, and the 35 gallon
one is big enough.

Hope your boy enjoys summer camp and gets as much out of Boy Scouts as
mine did.

DonkeyHody
"The best things in life . . . aren't things."
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Default Footlocker Design


I went to look at what they had to offer and wasn't particularly
impressed.

So, I figured I'd just cobble up a footlocker.


Tom

Been there. Done that. Don't waste your time and money. Whatever you
send will be trashed at the least and probably almost destroyed. Boy
Scouts is great but awfully hard on all concerned. By all I mean the
equipment and folks. All in all this makes it more fun and meaningful.
Lots of lessons to be learned.

Bob AZ
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Subject

Wood is Heavy, Weak, but can be finished to look beautiful.

IMHO, 1 out of 3 doesn't cut it.

Lew


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Default Footlocker Design

Andrew Erickson wrote:
In article ,
"Leon" wrote:

"Tom Watson" wrote in message
news
My son is going to Boy Scout Camp in mid June. They ask that each
boy have a footlocker.

(snippage)

So, I figured I'd just cobble up a footlocker.

I have some half inch cherry ply left over from a job and some
nice
brass hardware left over from a different job. I figure I can
make
this thing with no outlay.

My thought was that I would use finger joints in the corners,
house
the bottom in a plough, lay the top in a rabbet, and that would
make a decent enclosure.

Then I figured I'd put a pinrail on the inside and sit a divided
tray on it.

Has anyone made one of these before? I'd hate to build something
stupid because I didn't ask enough questions about it.


Hey Tom,

Like Charlie mentioned you may want to think about weight. Wood
would be very cool unless it was heavy and had to be moved around
by
a young'en. We always used a plastic container that resembled a
large ice chest except with out the insulation. A big plus is that
they are water resistant, rain is not a problem. Usually you can
find these in the larger sporting goods stores. Just a thought.


I'll second the "big plastic box" idea. Wally world and similar
often
have something of that sort in the general region of automotive
cruft
that they claim is a toolbox or some such. My mother, who retired
from being a missionary around a year ago, recommended one of them
when I visited her as they are sturdy, hold a lot, and don't weigh
that much--all concerns for international air travel. The fact that
they're pretty inexpensive is also a plus.

There's a reasonably detailed couple of articles on "Making one's
own
steamer and wardrobe trunks" in the fourth of the (original) Popular
Mechanics Boy Mechanic series, such as Lee Valley has available as a
reprint (pages 328-329 and 331-333). It appears from google books
that it's also in the modern edition reorganized from the originals
(pages 51-57). Their basic design uses 1/2" plywood or boards, butt
jointed to form a box, glued and nailed, and then sawn asunder to
form a chest and a top. The outside is covered in heavy fabric
glued
on (theatrical "scenic linen"--probably canvas?), the opening
reinforced with essentially angle iron pieces, and 2" x 1/4" slats
attached at the edges and across the faces for reinforcement.


Just a comment, but for that "heavy fabric, glued on", my temptation
would be fiberglass and epoxy.

But I'd also go for the "big plastic box". If you don't like the
cheap ones at Wally World, a Pelican 1630 should do the job. Not
pretty, but waterproof and tough--drop a motorcycle on one at 50 mph
and all that happens is that it gets scuffed up a bit.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)


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"J. Clarke" wrote in message
...

But I'd also go for the "big plastic box". If you don't like the
cheap ones at Wally World, a Pelican 1630 should do the job. Not
pretty, but waterproof and tough--drop a motorcycle on one at 50 mph
and all that happens is that it gets scuffed up a bit.


I've got one of these (or something similar):
http://store.rubbermaidproducts.com/...OD&ProdID=3922

Dave in Houston




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On 30 May, 00:03, Tom Watson wrote:

My thought was that I would use finger joints in the corners, house
the bottom in a plough, lay the top in a rabbet, and that would make a
decent enclosure.


Birch ply, as it's lighter.

Avoid finger joints in ply. They aren't especially strong and they're
a pain to cut. I'd use thin splines (biscuits are too deep, unless you
can do minis), and I'd use vertical triangular strips inside as
reinforcement. You're much better off making it from thinner ply that
needs a corner block than from thicker ply that weighs more for the
side panel. Construction is speeded if you make it as a solid cuboid,
then saw the lid off. The lid doesn't need much height, but a bit of a
rim to it makes it _much_ stronger. You can also fasten a stretchy
cloth mesh strip inside the lid to make pockets to stop small stuff
getting lost inside.

One big question is how the lid hinges. Does it hinge up and back just
enough, then be supported there by a couple of tape straps? Or is it
like an ammo box, where it's as thin as possible and then double
hinges allow it to flop right over the back and out of the way?

Handles are spliced rope beckets (loops) on each end, held under a
routed channel in a ply escutcheon. Use good quality soft-surfaced
rope, to save your fingers when carrying it. Put enough twist into it
when you make the splice (a "hard splice") so that the ring is fairly
self-supporting, again to save your fingers. The escutcheons also
thicken up the sides to support locks or catches. If the loops are
long enough, you can also carry it between two of you on a palanquin
pole.

A pair of shallow runners underneath makes it more rot-resistant and
easier to slide in and out of estate cars.

A couple of boxes of tacks can be used to make a "nailed" design on
the surface. Cooler than paint, if they're into older history more
than modern.

Japanese toolboxes (in the Taunton book) have a nice sliding lid
design. I made one of these where the slide is blocked by a rotating
wooden plate (carved into a pirate skull) to lock it, and simple push-
lock cylinders in each eye locked the skull in place. It took the
recipient a whole afternoon to open it for the first time, even with
the key. They had to pry the squishy rubber eyeball out of the socket
to see the keyhole first... 8-)
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Thanks to everyone for their ideas.

Charlie - thanks for the secret compartment idea. That's a keeper.
Kids love secret stuff.

Leon - thanks for the heads up on weight. I'm using the half inch
cherry ply because it's a leftover from previous jobs and it's kind of
hammered. It looks like the better quality trunks are made of 3/8"
ply that's covered in sheet metal. I'm hoping to net out at close to
what these do.

Andrew - thanks for the steamer trunk stuff. That's interesting. I
hear you about the plastic box being the logical way to go but I just
wanted to make this box. Not logical - but fun.

Dave - thanks. I'll be interested to see what the final weight is,
also.

Sawzdust - thanks for the offer of the picture. I already cut this
thing out and glued up the box jointed carcass today, so the die is
cast.

John - thanks for the pix of your beautiful boxes. They are even more
over the top than this thing is. Beautiful!

DonkeyHody - thanks for your thoughts. The leftover piece of cherry
ply really isn't good for better work, so I figured this was about
what it was good for.

Bob - thanks for the thoughts. I know it's going to get hammered and
I hope that every mark indicates a good memory.

Lew - thanks. You're right about the wood - but I'm a wood guy.

Andy - thanks for the very detailed message. Unfortunately, it
reached me after I'd already glued up the box. I'm interested in your
thought that box joints in ply are difficult to cut and not
particulary strong. That has not been my experience.

Swing - thanks for the runner idea. I'm going to use that and put
some of my leftover UHMW stripping on the bottom of them.


Thanks again to everyone.

I'll post some pix when it's finished.






Regards,

Tom

Thos.J.Watson - Cabinetmaker
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet
www.home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1
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On Fri, 30 May 2008 10:33:52 -0700 (PDT), Andy Dingley
wrote:

On 30 May, 00:03, Tom Watson wrote:

My thought was that I would use finger joints in the corners, house
the bottom in a plough, lay the top in a rabbet, and that would make a
decent enclosure.


Birch ply, as it's lighter.


Excellent suggestion.

Most "flight cases", by outfits like Anvil and Calzone, and seen on
stages everywhere, are simply birch ply covered with laminate.

The cases are lighter than they look when empty.

---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------
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On May 30, 4:32*pm, Tom Watson wrote:
Thanks to everyone for their ideas.

Charlie - thanks for the secret compartment idea. *That's a keeper.
Kids love secret stuff.

Leon - thanks for the heads up on weight. *I'm using the half inch
cherry ply because it's a leftover from previous jobs and it's kind of
hammered. *It looks like the better quality trunks are made of 3/8"
ply that's covered in sheet metal. *I'm hoping to net out at close to
what these do.

Andrew - thanks for the steamer trunk stuff. *That's interesting. *I
hear you about the plastic box being the logical way to go but I just
wanted to make this box. *Not logical - but fun.

Dave - thanks. *I'll be interested to see what the final weight is,
also.

Sawzdust - thanks for the offer of the picture. *I already cut this
thing out and glued up the box jointed carcass today, so the die is
cast.

John - thanks for the pix of your beautiful boxes. *They are even more
over the top than this thing is. *Beautiful!

DonkeyHody - thanks for your thoughts. *The leftover piece of cherry
ply really isn't good for better work, so I figured this was about
what it was good for.

Bob - thanks for the thoughts. *I know it's going to get hammered and
I hope that every mark indicates a good memory.

Lew - thanks. *You're right about the wood - but I'm a wood guy.

Andy - thanks for the very detailed message. *Unfortunately, it
reached me after I'd already glued up the box. *I'm interested in your
thought that box joints in ply are difficult to cut and not
particulary strong. *That has not been my experience.

Swing - thanks for the runner idea. *I'm going to use that and put
some of my leftover UHMW stripping on the bottom of them.

Thanks again to everyone.

I'll post some pix when it's finished.

Regards,

Tom

Thos.J.Watson - Cabinetmaker
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnetwww.home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1


Great. All wonderful ideas. Now, bottom line: build it for your son.
Enjoy building it. Load it up with karma, and he and his troupe will
respect it. Not too many swirlies on the scrollwork, if you catch my
drift.

If it is built right, it can be light-weight and still survive the
patina which will carry your son and his stuff into the future. He
will look back and love that damned thing. He will.

I raised 3 daughters. They all have their shelves and boxes and
stuff... I don't want to be in the shoes of those who treat those
things with disrespect... and that includes a house we're
building..LOL...

A few rugged dove-tails. A few tin-hammered corners. Some cast-brass
inlaid hinges. You are a lucky man to even want to DO this.

r
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On May 30, 5:07*pm, B A R R Y wrote:
On Fri, 30 May 2008 10:33:52 -0700 (PDT), Andy Dingley

wrote:
On 30 May, 00:03, Tom Watson wrote:


My thought was that I would use finger joints in the corners, house
the bottom in a plough, lay the top in a rabbet, and that would make a
decent enclosure.


Birch ply, as it's lighter.


Excellent suggestion.

Most "flight cases", by outfits like Anvil and Calzone, and seen on
stages everywhere, are simply birch ply covered with laminate. *

The cases are lighter than they look when empty.

---------------------------------------------
**http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html***
---------------------------------------------


Yup, an old acquaintance of mine makes a living building road cases in
Rochester NY. Baltic Birch and.....not just any laminate. A specially
designed formulation.
Holy ****... I just Googled him... guess he sold out a couple of years
back. Anyway:
http://www.bristolcase.com/
I'll try to dig up the sources for all those nifty locks and corners.


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"Tom Watson" wrote in message
...
Thanks to everyone for their ideas.


S N I P

Thanks again to everyone.

I'll post some pix when it's finished.


Sounds like he's determined to build this thing.

Dave in Houston


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You are absolutely and totally welcome Tom. We'll be looking forward to
seeing the treasure chest that your son takes to camp!


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"Tom Watson" wrote:

Lew - thanks. You're right about the wood - but I'm a wood guy.


If you want to really gain some strength with very little weight gain,
add a fairing putty fillet to all the inside corners using a tongue
depressor to get a nice shape.

Strong like Bull.

Lew




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On May 30, 6:23*pm, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:
"Tom Watson" wrote:
Lew - thanks. *You're right about the wood - but I'm a wood guy.


If you want to really gain some strength with very little weight gain,
add a fairing putty fillet to all the inside corners using a tongue
depressor to get a nice shape.

Strong like Bull.

Lew


LOL... that reminded me of a saying back in my Toronto days: "Strong
like bull, smart like streetcar."

But indeed. A radius'ed corner made with adhesive like that adds a
huge amount of strength by distributing the stress risers. I guess you
are smarter than you look, Lew..*G*
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"Tom Watson" wrote
Thanks to everyone for their ideas.

snip detailed thank you note

I just gotta say this.

This is the most detailed THANK YOU NOTE I have ever seen.

Momma would be proud.

Good on ya Tom. Both for wanting to take good care of your kid. And for
acknowledging those who help you do it. You are one of the good guys.





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On Fri, 30 May 2008 14:19:41 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy
wrote:

I'll try to dig up the sources for all those nifty locks and corners.



Sessions...

---------------------------------------------
** http://www.bburke.com/woodworking.html **
---------------------------------------------
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The footlocker is pretty much finished. Still need to build a tray,
although my wife says that peoople just set the trays aside because
they are a pain to take in and out.

Once again, thanks to everyone for the help.

Pix on ABPW.

I'll put them on the website in a little bit, for those who con't get
the binary group.


This was a fun project.





Regards,

Tom

Thos.J.Watson - Cabinetmaker
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet
www.home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1
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Here are the photos on the web.


http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/o...locker%201.jpg

http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/o...locker%205.jpg




Regards,

Tom

Thos.J.Watson - Cabinetmaker
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet
www.home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1
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"Tom Watson" wrote in message
...
The footlocker is pretty much finished. Still need to build a tray,
although my wife says that peoople just set the trays aside because
they are a pain to take in and out.


Single tray, half-width, slides from side to side. No?

Dave in Houston


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Very very nice looking, Tom. I daresay that goes beyond the footlocker
level and goes into blanket chest territory...or whatever the next stage
or two of box would be called.

Do you have some sort of a stay for the top, to prevent it from
unfolding too far and (in time) pulling the hinges out? Seems like
something that would be desirable. I also assume you're planning on
putting the other fifteen hinge screws in sometime.

--
Andrew Erickson

"He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain that which he cannot
lose." -- Jim Elliot


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On Sun, 01 Jun 2008 21:16:13 -0400, Andrew Erickson
wrote:

Very very nice looking, Tom. I daresay that goes beyond the footlocker
level and goes into blanket chest territory...or whatever the next stage
or two of box would be called.

Do you have some sort of a stay for the top, to prevent it from
unfolding too far and (in time) pulling the hinges out? Seems like
something that would be desirable. I also assume you're planning on
putting the other fifteen hinge screws in sometime.



Andrew:

Thanks for the kind words.

I was going to use some leftover Ives casement hardware to keep the
top from opening more than about 110 but they now seem too heavy and
balky, so I'll use a lighter weight lid support that I have laying
about.

The hardware is just pinned in place so that I oculd look at it for
awhile before fastening it for real. I want to use round headed bolts
instead of screws, and then file the slots off.

I also think that the brass corners are out of scale, they were
originally intended for a much bigger box, and I'm thinking about
cutting an inch off of each leg.



Regards,

Tom

Thos.J.Watson - Cabinetmaker
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet
www.home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1
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On Sun, 1 Jun 2008 16:55:34 -0400, "Rick M"
wrote:

Hey Tom,

What about a 1/2 depth shelf that hinges open with the lid like a fishing
tackle box? Easy access, no misplacing, etc.



Rick:

That's a good thought but my current thinking is to make two open top
instead of one large one. Don't really know why - it just seems
right.



Regards,

Tom

Thos.J.Watson - Cabinetmaker
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet
www.home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1
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On Sun, 1 Jun 2008 19:30:24 -0500, "Dave in Houston"
wrote:


Single tray, half-width, slides from side to side. No?



Dave:

Thanks.

I'd be a little afraid that this would slide around too much during
transport.

Right now I'm figuring on making two trays to take up the typical
single tray space. That might make it a little easier to lift out one
and sit it on top of the other one, so that the boy can get to stuff
below.



Regards,

Tom

Thos.J.Watson - Cabinetmaker
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet
www.home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1
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"Tom Watson" wrote in message
On Sun, 1 Jun 2008 19:30:24 -0500, "Dave in Houston"
wrote:


Single tray, half-width, slides from side to side. No?



Dave:

Thanks.

I'd be a little afraid that this would slide around too much during
transport.

Right now I'm figuring on making two trays to take up the typical
single tray space. That might make it a little easier to lift out one
and sit it on top of the other one, so that the boy can get to stuff
below.


Good job ... like its counterpart, the Army footlocker, whose design was
perfected to a "t" for its specific purposes, it appears to pay homage to
portability, security, and durability. (I still think you will find the
previously discussed "runners" a big plus for any kind of "camp" use, even
indoors)

Gotta big grin when I saw it ... and it brings back some memories.

I went through Artillery OCS in the late 60's at Fort Sill, OK (aka,
Comanche County Canon Cockers College). Part of the drill while there was
that your Army footlocker, and it's contents, had to be ready for "white
glove" inspection 24/7.

What we did to make it easy on ourselves was to wrap starched barber towels
around shirt cardboard, glue the assembly to the bottom of the two top tray
sections, and then glue brand new "personal display items" like shaving
equipment, tooth brush, hair brush (no hair, but the brushes were required),
specific toilet articles, etc, to the towels.

The layout of these items was set out by regulation, measured to the nth of
an inch, were never used, and were most definitely for "display only" if you
knew what was good for you.

The bottom of the footlocker had the same specific requirements for contents
location (socks folded with a "smile", etc) with one exception:

A "Converse" brand tennis shoe box, with the top held on by two boot
"blousing rubbers", precisely located 1" from each end, was a "required"
item in the bottom left corner.

This latter was your "Magic Box". Sacred and inviolate, it was not required
to be opened for inspection and could hold anything that would fit, but
mostly personal items, like letters from home, razor, toothbrush, etc that
you _did_ use on a daily basis ...and anything else of a sacred nature that
would fit.

No one, including upperclassmen or permanent duty personnel were allowed
access to your "Magic Box", and did we take advantage of that!

Keep up the good work ... I have a good Dad, but you gotta be one of the
best.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 5/14/08
KarlC@ (the obvious)


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On Tue, 3 Jun 2008 13:01:32 -0500, "Swingman" wrote:

Good job ... like its counterpart, the Army footlocker, whose design was
perfected to a "t" for its specific purposes, it appears to pay homage to
portability, security, and durability. (I still think you will find the
previously discussed "runners" a big plus for any kind of "camp" use, even
indoors)


Swing - the runners will be there, with UHMW tape on the bottom. I am
making them sacrificial, using double face tape.

Snip of good memories

Keep up the good work ... I have a good Dad, but you gotta be one of the
best.



That is an undeserved kudo but I accept it in the spirit that it was
given, and thank you from the bottom of my heart.


The math that you learned at that time would mystify the current crop
of math majors.




Regards,

Tom

Thos.J.Watson - Cabinetmaker
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet
www.home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1


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On Thu, 29 May 2008 18:49:33 -0500, "Leon"
wrote:

Hey Tom,

Like Charlie mentioned you may want to think about weight. Wood would be
very cool unless it was heavy and had to be moved around by a young'en. We
always used a plastic container that resembled a large ice chest except with
out the insulation. A big plus is that they are water resistant, rain is not
a problem. Usually you can find these in the larger sporting goods stores.
Just a thought.



Leon:

It weighs in at 36 lbs.

Two pounds more than the comparable store bought model.

I think that couple of pounds, or more, is in the cast brass hardware.



Regards,

Tom

Thos.J.Watson - Cabinetmaker
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet
www.home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1
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