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Bay Area Dave
 
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Default Oak end table drawer - wooden slides and M&T questions (Long) Repostdue to crazy ISP/net problem

1) Every drawer I've made I've used full extension slides. Now I want
to make an end table with a single drawer; all wood. If I have oak on
hand, do I make a single center runner (and btw, HOW?? ) or do you
use two runners, or runners on the side, from oak? I also have maple,
but the table will be oak. In other words, how do YOU make a drawer
slide with all wood components?

This is going to be a country styled oak end table with a drawer near
the top, and I'm leaning towards, but not committed to, a full width
shelf near the floor. Thinking about tapered legs, which I suppose I'd
have to start by gluing up 5/4 or 6/4 material to make the legs thick
enough. At what point do you make hollow legs (not that I'd imagine
that would be the case for the size I'm gonna make)?

2) I saw a picture of fluted legs that are taped only near the floor,
starting about six inches up. The flutes taper off to a point, like I
had asked about a while back. Still can't quite envision how to bring
the flute to a sharp point while routing it. If I use a router table to
flute, do I just practice at lifting the leg up near the end of the cut,
and set a reference mark, so that all 3 flutes have the same ending
contour. Seems like that would be hard to pull off with uniformity, so
I'm expecting someone has a better way.

3) I think I'm going to finally make mortise and tenons. (MAJOR
CRINGING! I have the mortising attachment for the DP, which should work
in oak, I hope.) Mortise first, and then make the tenon fit it,
correct? What level of smoothness does a decent M&T have to have for a
long lasting joint? I can't imagine that the mortising attachment is
gonna leave the walls of the mortise all that smooth. I've only gone
general purpose chisel for now. Do I just got at it with sandpaper or
do I need to buy more tools (aaargh! I can't get something new every week!)

I don't have a tenoning attachment for the TS, but could rig up
something, albeit kludgy to run a board thru vertically. Is using a BS
not a good way to do it? I have one blade that gives a reasonably
smooth cut; a 3/16 Pro olsen 10 TPI, raker set. Should I just use the
TS for ALL the tenon cuts? I'm expecting that if it's all done on the
TS, I won't need to smooth the surface, but to make a tiny adjustment,
do you sand or what? My new smoother is the only plane I've got. Or
would I be better off milling this on the router table, using a 1/2
straight double flute bit. I could make precise depth changes to the
bit for a very precise fit. Would you use or TS or router?

Please tell me I can accomplish these tasks without buying more stuff!
Eventually I'll get a bunch of chisels, and perhaps a tenon jig for
the TS. But for now, is this doable with a BS, TS, router table, and no
Neander tools but one basic chisel and a smoother.

How do you set up a router to do a deep, carefully positioned mortise,
without buying the Leigh jig, or other expensive jig? Like I said, I
have a router table, but I also have a 2 1/4 HP handheld router.


dave


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Swingman
 
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Default Oak end table drawer - wooden slides and M&T questions (Long) Repost due to crazy ISP/net problem

Take a look at my website for a way to do a drawer in an end table using all
wood slides.

Page 3 of the projects journal, Wooden Drawer Slide Details.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 9/21/03


"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
1) Every drawer I've made I've used full extension slides. Now I want
to make an end table with a single drawer; all wood.



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Bill
 
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Default Oak end table drawer - wooden slides and M&T questions (Long) Repost due to crazy ISP/net problem

Dave,

I have made several tables for the house, all with M&T and had no
problems. I use a dedicated M&T, and thru trail and error learned a
system that works for me. Fist make up your leg blanks. DO NOT taper
the legs yet. Pick your best looking leg sides to face front and mark
the legs. Layout the mortises on the legs and measure twice.

Cut your mortises an eighth deeper than needed. Clean up with the
widest chisel you can.

I cut my tenons on the table saw. I cut the thickness first on a scrap
until I get a tight fit. I lay the boards flat on the table, standing
the boards up is awkward for me. Clean up the boards with a rasp,
gently now. Final fitting with a palm sander, again gently. I go for a
snug fit. Not loosey goosey, not so tight you have to hammer the tenon
in with more than gentle tapping with a rubber mallet.

Try it with some scrap and it will build up your confidence. I built
my workbench first with M&T and the thing is solid as a rock. I built
it out of 2x4s with a 2x table top covered with a sheet of particle
board which is disposable with use.

Bill

Bay Area Dave wrote in message .com...

3) I think I'm going to finally make mortise and tenons. (MAJOR
CRINGING! I have the mortising attachment for the DP, which should work
in oak, I hope.) Mortise first, and then make the tenon fit it,
correct? What level of smoothness does a decent M&T have to have for a
long lasting joint? I can't imagine that the mortising attachment is
gonna leave the walls of the mortise all that smooth. I've only gone
general purpose chisel for now. Do I just got at it with sandpaper or
do I need to buy more tools (aaargh! I can't get something new every week!)

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George M. Kazaka
 
Posts: n/a
Default Oak end table drawer - wooden slides and M&T questions (Long)...

Maybe I am missing something, why does anyone want to make a tenon on the
table saw with a stick going straight up in the air as with any tenoning
jig.

I have always made them with the dado blades,the wood is laying flat.
use the mitre gauge to hold the wood and the fence as a stop
Sometimes it takes several passes depending on the length of the tenon

Cut the mortise first with a router, A mortise machine, trained termites or
whatever
then cut the tenon to fit

Good Luck,
George

"T." wrote in message
...
Thu, Dec 4, 2003, 2:06am (EST+5) (Bay Area Dave)
laments about, among other things:
snip I don't have a tenoning attachment for the TS, but could rig up
something, albeit kludgy snip

Crap, Bay Area Dave. Is it too much of a challenge to google? Or,
to check the archives? This wheel has already been invented, you don't
have to reinvent it, just take advantage of what's already been done.
That is you typing, isn't it? On a computer? With access to the world
wide web? Tenoning jig plans have been posted before. But, even if
not, they aren't rocket science.

It makes my teeth ache, to read some of the questions you ask. So
here's plans. Free plans. Normally, I would have said this was about a
30 second search, but the system is extremely slow tonight, and this
took closer to two and a half minutes.
http://www.lowes.com/lkn?action=howT...c=howToLibrary

Please tell me I can accomplish these tasks without buying more stuff!
snip

Apparently not.

JOAT
I love cats, but I can never eat a whole one.
- John Wamsley

Life just ain't life without good music. - JOAT
Web Page Update 4 Dec 2003.
Some tunes I like.
http://community-2.webtv.net/Jakofal...OMETUNESILIKE/




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Leon
 
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Default Oak end table drawer - wooden slides and M&T questions (Long)...


"George M. Kazaka" wrote in message
...
Maybe I am missing something, why does anyone want to make a tenon on the
table saw with a stick going straight up in the air as with any tenoning
jig.

I have always made them with the dado blades,the wood is laying flat.
use the mitre gauge to hold the wood and the fence as a stop
Sometimes it takes several passes depending on the length of the tenon



Suppose you don't have a dado set.


  #7   Report Post  
Bay Area Dave
 
Posts: n/a
Default Oak end table drawer - wooden slides and M&T questions (Long)...

like me. I can't get EVERYTHING for a fully equipped wood shop all
at once. Not that I wouldn't LIKE to!

dave

Leon wrote:

"George M. Kazaka" wrote in message
...

Maybe I am missing something, why does anyone want to make a tenon on the
table saw with a stick going straight up in the air as with any tenoning
jig.

I have always made them with the dado blades,the wood is laying flat.
use the mitre gauge to hold the wood and the fence as a stop
Sometimes it takes several passes depending on the length of the tenon




Suppose you don't have a dado set.



  #8   Report Post  
Jerry Gilreath
 
Posts: n/a
Default Oak end table drawer - wooden slides and M&T questions (Long)...

Well, since it's only a couple tenons, ( and here I go ASSuming ), why not
use the regular blade and nibble it away? I've done that a time or two,
getting distracted and forgetting to do a piece or two after taking the dado
off. Takes a bit longer, but does the same thing. I would want to do a
wholes house full of cabinet doors that way. Guess it's just laziness not
wanting to put the dado back on.

--
This space for rent.
Jerry© The Phoneman®
"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
. com...
like me. I can't get EVERYTHING for a fully equipped wood shop all
at once. Not that I wouldn't LIKE to!

dave

Leon wrote:

"George M. Kazaka" wrote in message
...

Maybe I am missing something, why does anyone want to make a tenon on

the
table saw with a stick going straight up in the air as with any tenoning
jig.

I have always made them with the dado blades,the wood is laying flat.
use the mitre gauge to hold the wood and the fence as a stop
Sometimes it takes several passes depending on the length of the tenon




Suppose you don't have a dado set.





  #9   Report Post  
George M. Kazaka
 
Posts: n/a
Default Oak end table drawer - wooden slides and M&T questions (Long)...

Then do it on the router with a atraight bit,

I know suppose you don't have a router

What can I tell ya
"Leon" wrote in message
m...

"George M. Kazaka" wrote in message
...
Maybe I am missing something, why does anyone want to make a tenon on

the
table saw with a stick going straight up in the air as with any tenoning
jig.

I have always made them with the dado blades,the wood is laying flat.
use the mitre gauge to hold the wood and the fence as a stop
Sometimes it takes several passes depending on the length of the tenon



Suppose you don't have a dado set.




  #10   Report Post  
Mo' Sawdust
 
Posts: n/a
Default Oak end table drawer - wooden slides and M&T questions (Long)...

A router mortising bit works better in this instance. YMMV

On 2003-12-04, George M. Kazaka wrote:
Then do it on the router with a atraight bit,


--
Think thrice, measure twice and cut once.

There is only one period and no underscores in the real email address.



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  #11   Report Post  
Brian
 
Posts: n/a
Default Oak end table drawer - wooden slides and M&T questions (Long) Repost due to crazy ISP/net problem


"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
. com...
1) Every drawer I've made I've used full extension slides. Now I want
to make an end table with a single drawer; all wood. If I have oak on
hand, do I make a single center runner (and btw, HOW?? ) or do you
use two runners, or runners on the side, from oak? I also have maple,
but the table will be oak. In other words, how do YOU make a drawer
slide with all wood components?


Side runners of HDPE that fit into the grooved drawer sides with 1/16" play
and tapered at the front to make insertion user friendly.


This is going to be a country styled oak end table with a drawer near
the top, and I'm leaning towards, but not committed to, a full width
shelf near the floor. Thinking about tapered legs, which I suppose I'd
have to start by gluing up 5/4 or 6/4 material to make the legs thick
enough. At what point do you make hollow legs (not that I'd imagine
that would be the case for the size I'm gonna make)?


I wouldn't go hollow.


2) I saw a picture of fluted legs that are taped only near the floor,
starting about six inches up. The flutes taper off to a point, like I
had asked about a while back. Still can't quite envision how to bring
the flute to a sharp point while routing it. If I use a router table to
flute, do I just practice at lifting the leg up near the end of the cut,
and set a reference mark, so that all 3 flutes have the same ending
contour. Seems like that would be hard to pull off with uniformity, so
I'm expecting someone has a better way.


Not sure if I get the picture, but if I do then I'd try setting and marking
the leading edge of a stop block such that it defines the "point". Then I'd
drop into the route at the stop block, carefully remove the block, and route
away from the point.



3) I think I'm going to finally make mortise and tenons. (MAJOR
CRINGING!


Why?

I have the mortising attachment for the DP, which should work
in oak, I hope.)


Don't need it, but it should do. Forstner bits in the DP and a little
chiseling works equally well.

Mortise first, and then make the tenon fit it,
correct?


Not necessarily. I did it the other way around before I made my TS tenon
jig because when I freehanded tenon cuts on the TS, one or two would slip,
resulting in different sized tenons from piece to piece. So I'd always want
to measure my tenons and use the dimensions to outline for the mortising.
Now I still do it that way, but just out of habit.

What level of smoothness does a decent M&T have to have for a
long lasting joint? I can't imagine that the mortising attachment is
gonna leave the walls of the mortise all that smooth.


Smooth enough.

I've only gone
general purpose chisel for now. Do I just got at it with sandpaper or
do I need to buy more tools (aaargh! I can't get something new every

week!)

I don't sand mine. Don't see the need.


I don't have a tenoning attachment for the TS, but could rig up
something, albeit kludgy to run a board thru vertically.


Don't need a commercial attachment. Make your own in an evening that does
the same thing. Mine sleeves over the fence and holds the clamped workpiece
upright. Very simple and effective.

Is using a BS
not a good way to do it?


You could do tenons on the BS with a fence and miter guage. Sure, why not?
Probably quicker in overall setup time than on the TS.



How do you set up a router to do a deep, carefully positioned mortise,
without buying the Leigh jig, or other expensive jig? Like I said, I
have a router table, but I also have a 2 1/4 HP handheld router.


Use the handheld router and make another jig to hold the workpiece. My jig
is just basically an open top, open ended MDF box that I clamp the work
into. It has a wide, flat lip on the top and I use a fence attachment
referenced to the lip's edge to position the bit inside the jig.

After mortising with a router, you can either chisel the corners square, or
chamfer the tenon corners. I tend to prefer the latter, especially with a
floating tenon.

Brian.


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Brian
 
Posts: n/a
Default Oak end table drawer - wooden slides and M&T questions (Long)...

Yeah. Norm uses the nibble method on tenons all the time. I wish I could
nibble is fast as he does. :-)

Brian.


"Jerry Gilreath" wrote in message
news:RTKzb.423398$Tr4.1198321@attbi_s03...
Well, since it's only a couple tenons, ( and here I go ASSuming ), why not
use the regular blade and nibble it away? I've done that a time or two,
getting distracted and forgetting to do a piece or two after taking the

dado
off. Takes a bit longer, but does the same thing. I would want to do a
wholes house full of cabinet doors that way. Guess it's just laziness not
wanting to put the dado back on.

--
This space for rent.
Jerry© The Phoneman®
"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
. com...
like me. I can't get EVERYTHING for a fully equipped wood shop all
at once. Not that I wouldn't LIKE to!

dave

Leon wrote:

"George M. Kazaka" wrote in message
...

Maybe I am missing something, why does anyone want to make a tenon on

the
table saw with a stick going straight up in the air as with any

tenoning
jig.

I have always made them with the dado blades,the wood is laying flat.
use the mitre gauge to hold the wood and the fence as a stop
Sometimes it takes several passes depending on the length of the tenon




Suppose you don't have a dado set.







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