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To caulk or not -- base of porch column



 
 
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  #1  
Old January 11th 08, 04:50 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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Posts: 797
Default To caulk or not -- base of porch column

In the process of reflooring my covered porch with T&G ipe, I had to
remove the wood columns. The columns rest on the decking.

Question is whether to caulk where the columns meet the deck or not?
- Advantages:
Makes the joint look better and fills gaps
Keeps water out?
- Disadvantages:
Keeps water in?

One compromise would be to caulk along 3 sides, leaving the
"downstream" (i.e. pitched down) side uncaulked.

Any suggestions?

The columns are solid wood turnings with a 7x7 square base (integral
to the column itself) consisting of a solid 6x6 core and 1/2 facing
around the edges. I have restored them so that they are now in quite
excellent condition.
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  #2  
Old January 11th 08, 04:55 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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Posts: 274
Default To caulk or not -- base of porch column


My posts (at least, the outer bits) are 1/8" above the decking. That
way, I can put something between the decking and posts when painting
the posts or staining the deck. Might not be an option for your
posts, though.

Might be a good idea to seal the base of the columns with penetrating
epoxy or something, too.
  #3  
Old January 11th 08, 06:27 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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Posts: 68
Default To caulk or not -- base of porch column

blueman wrote:
: In the process of reflooring my covered porch with T&G ipe, I had to
: remove the wood columns. The columns rest on the decking.
[...]
: Any suggestions?

: The columns are solid wood turnings with a 7x7 square base (integral
: to the column itself) consisting of a solid 6x6 core and 1/2 facing
: around the edges. I have restored them so that they are now in quite
: excellent condition.

Consider using a base plate of some impervious material between the
post and the deck, and then install trim to hide the gap.

For example, see http://www.vintagewoodworks.com/basmounbloca.html ,
but I'd probably make my own.

By the way, I've had good experiences working with Vintage Wooodworks.

--- Chip
  #4  
Old January 11th 08, 06:30 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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Posts: 2,585
Default To caulk or not -- base of porch column

On Jan 11, 10:55*am, DJ Delorie wrote:


Might be a good idea to seal the base of the columns with penetrating epoxy or something, too.


That's probably a great idea.

When I have to put posts on ANY surface, I seal the bottom with NP1
(an elastomeric UV resistant sealer/adhesive) swabbed on with my
finger. If I can, I also lift mine up and put a fat bead of the same
stuff all the way around the bottom.

You need elastomeric qualities as the crap wood we buy now for outdoor
use is still as green as a gourd. As the wood schrinks from drying, a
plain acrylic caulk will probably pull away from the adjoining
surfaces and open up a crack.

If your post is sitting squarely on the deck, then put a 1/2" bead all
the way around the base. Leaving one side open will do you no good -
if you want to keep moisture and debris that attracts water out of
your connection point, seal all sides.

When I used to build decks (and now when I build porches) I either
caulk/prime/seal/paint immidiately after construction, or wait a few
months to let the wood open up to create its own cracks for caulking.
No matter what you do, any of your pine (treated or plain YP) will
shrink and move as it dries. Ipe seems pretty stable, but I am
assuming that your columns are pine. Seal 'em up. If you don't, you
will also see relief cracking (usually in an area where they are most
visible) on the post surfaces.

Robert
  #5  
Old January 11th 08, 07:18 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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Posts: 2,047
Default To caulk or not -- base of porch column


wrote:

Might be a good idea to seal the base of the columns with

penetrating epoxy or something, too.

That's probably a great idea.

When I have to put posts on ANY surface, I seal the bottom with NP1
(an elastomeric UV resistant sealer/adhesive) swabbed on with my
finger. If I can, I also lift mine up and put a fat bead of the same
stuff all the way around the bottom.

SFWIW, While SikaFlex not only makes a very good line of marine
sealants, their primary business is in the construction market.

Their tech service is very good and has an 800#.

Think I would treat the bottom 6"-12" of post with that green goop
(Can't remember the name but probably a Flood product) intended to
protect wood in wet locations, prior to painting.

Did this on an outdoor work benck setting on a concrete slab with good
results.

Lew


  #6  
Old January 11th 08, 07:35 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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Posts: 797
Default To caulk or not -- base of porch column

" writes:
On Jan 11, 10:55*am, DJ Delorie wrote:


Might be a good idea to seal the base of the columns with penetrating epoxy or something, too.


That's probably a great idea.

When I have to put posts on ANY surface, I seal the bottom with NP1
(an elastomeric UV resistant sealer/adhesive) swabbed on with my
finger. If I can, I also lift mine up and put a fat bead of the same
stuff all the way around the bottom.

You need elastomeric qualities as the crap wood we buy now for outdoor
use is still as green as a gourd. As the wood schrinks from drying, a
plain acrylic caulk will probably pull away from the adjoining
surfaces and open up a crack.

If your post is sitting squarely on the deck, then put a 1/2" bead all
the way around the base. Leaving one side open will do you no good -
if you want to keep moisture and debris that attracts water out of
your connection point, seal all sides.

When I used to build decks (and now when I build porches) I either
caulk/prime/seal/paint immidiately after construction, or wait a few
months to let the wood open up to create its own cracks for caulking.
No matter what you do, any of your pine (treated or plain YP) will
shrink and move as it dries. Ipe seems pretty stable, but I am
assuming that your columns are pine. Seal 'em up. If you don't, you
will also see relief cracking (usually in an area where they are most
visible) on the post surfaces.

Robert


Thanks. I have already coated the ends first with post preserver and
then sealed the ends with Rotfix epoxy.
  #7  
Old January 11th 08, 07:48 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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Posts: 2,585
Default To caulk or not -- base of porch column

On Jan 11, 1:18*pm, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:

SFWIW, While SikaFlex not only makes a very good line of marine
sealants, their primary business is in the construction market.

Their tech service is very good and has an 800#.


As usual Lew, spot on. I beleive at this point Sika makes NP! and
actually owns them. We used to use Sikaflex XX? when I was a
commercial super doing tilt wall panels. We sealed all the joints
with that stuff, with joints and inch wide and 20 feet tall (or
more).

NEVER have I seen that fail. Ever.

We use NP1/Sika for everything from fixing concrete cracks, roof
flashings, masonry repair (seal your cracked mortar and bricks up with
that stuff!) and even work boot repair. It holds paint, masonry
sealers, sticks to everything and is completely UV proof. What more
could a repair contractor want? I honestly keep about 4 -5 tubes in
my truck of different colors.

If blueman is still reading this, note no one has spoken the ugliest
word in sealants.

Silicone.

Sorry, someone had to say it. I can't think of one thing that stuff
is good for excpet disguising leaks so that they can't be seen. I
don't care what you use it for. It doesn't maintain its adhesion,
doesn't hold paint well (some of the "paintables" are better than
others) and is NOT UV resistant, no matter what the tube says.

Robert



  #8  
Old January 11th 08, 08:57 PM posted to rec.woodworking
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Posts: 2,047
Default To caulk or not -- base of porch column


wrote:

If blueman is still reading this, note no one has spoken the ugliest

word in sealants.

Silicone.

Do NOT darken my door step with that GARBAGE!!

Poor quality GARBAGE at best.

Lew



  #9  
Old January 14th 08, 01:33 AM posted to rec.woodworking
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Posts: 797
Default To caulk or not -- base of porch column

" writes:
On Jan 11, 1:18*pm, "Lew Hodgett" wrote:

SFWIW, While SikaFlex not only makes a very good line of marine
sealants, their primary business is in the construction market.

Their tech service is very good and has an 800#.


As usual Lew, spot on. I beleive at this point Sika makes NP! and
actually owns them. We used to use Sikaflex XX? when I was a
commercial super doing tilt wall panels. We sealed all the joints
with that stuff, with joints and inch wide and 20 feet tall (or
more).

NEVER have I seen that fail. Ever.

We use NP1/Sika for everything from fixing concrete cracks, roof
flashings, masonry repair (seal your cracked mortar and bricks up with
that stuff!) and even work boot repair. It holds paint, masonry
sealers, sticks to everything and is completely UV proof. What more
could a repair contractor want? I honestly keep about 4 -5 tubes in
my truck of different colors.


I have heard several people recommend Sika but I haven't seen it
locally either in the Borgs (not surprising) or in the local building
supply store (I live in a Boston suburb).

How does Sika differ from the many so-called "premium" polyurethane
construction adhesives on the market?

It sounds like you use it as the swiss-army knife of heavy-duty
adhesives -- what makes it so special?

Thanks and sorry if the above sound like naive questions...
  #10  
Old January 14th 08, 02:20 AM posted to rec.woodworking
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Posts: 2,047
Default To caulk or not -- base of porch column


"blueman" wrote:

I have heard several people recommend Sika but I haven't seen it
locally either in the Borgs (not surprising) or in the local building
supply store (I live in a Boston suburb).


Google is your friend, will give you the website, after that it is all down
hill.

Lew


 




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