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' Help! Rough surface after poly coat!'
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OK - - - I'm 're-sending' so ListServe won't reject this response "Ron Magen" wrote in message news:... OK, I've read most of the messages, and their 'patented bitching' about MinWax products. High cost spray equipment is nice a) if you can afford it . . . and the compressor to supply air, and b) if you have the space to use/store it. NEITHER of these things answers YOUR problem NOW. I have had good results using MinWax products . . . I'm not 'dedicated' to any one particular brand, by any means. It goes along with the 'KISS' principle . . . what works and gives you the results YOU want in the least complicated way. Are you using Oil or Water based Poly? What was your 'prep' schedule? What were the conditions Before and After you applied the Poly? Where did you do the application? A few years ago I built a kitchen storage cabinet for Joanne. While it was Pine, I made the top & rear trim from Maple. I used water-based poly {MinWax} and it's STILL 'like glass'. She uses the top like a 'side table' with a lamp, a couple of cups, and what ever she drops on it to look at / sort through during dinner. I haven't touched it since I built it. Prep - Sanded with 80 grit, just 'broke' the edges. Vacuumed off the dust, and out of the pores Filled the pores with Bartley's 'Natural' colored filler. Sanded smooth with 80 grit to remove any filler on the surface Vacuumed Stained lightly {MinWax Gel Stain} to get close to the tones of the walls, cabinets, and table 'Deglossed' with a 3-M pad Vacuumed Poly Application - IN THE BASEMENT - relatively constant, cool temperature {because this is a mostly 'uninhabited' part of the house, I keep the heating/cooling ducts closed and taped} With a 'decent' foam brush, applied the first coat of the poly. Lightly flowed it on, tipped it off, and LEFT When dry, the next day, 'scuff sanded' with 220 grit, & applied 2nd coat of poly {DITTO . . . 3rd coat {Ditto . . . . 320 grit 4th coat {Ditto . . . . 400 grit 5th coat {Ditto . . . 600 grit 6th coat When this was dry, the next day, I gave it a good rub down with a FINE 3-M pad, followed by a 'rub-out' with some automotive compound, and finally 2 applications of well rubbed-out, hard, automotive wax. The 'application time' was probably 30 minutes per 'step', more in 'getting ready' & 'cleaning up' than the actual 'doing'. The rest of the time was simply waiting. Other than the final 'rub-out' steps, this is how I apply varnish to a Mahogany transom or trim. The ambient conditions, or time of day is IMPORTANT. What you think of as bubble IN the poly, may actually be bubbles coming THROUGH the poly. In it's simplest explanation, it's 'outgassing' from the wood as the temperature increases. One reason for having a constant, cool environment, or doing the application late in the afternoon - as the temperature is dropping from the heat of the day. Also, by filling the pores, you eliminate almost all of the places where the 'gas' comes from. You may have 'eliminated' all of the dust, but did you? How soon after did you start the application? What small 'dust' particles {for instance, smoke} are still in the air? Air conditioning/heating on? Ducts open, etc. The amount of 'sticky' time is dependent on the material. One of the reasons I like water-based poly is that it dries quickly. When I was re-finishing some interior doors, I basically used the same schedule; except I was able to apply a coat every 4-6 hours. In the case of the Maple top . . . I chose to wait 24-hours. Varnish, or oil-based poly dries much more slowly, so remains 'sensitive' for a longer period. Long winded, but that's my point. 'Instant Gratification' with an 'Instant Finish' . . . spray the hell out of it, and spend your time on the 'learning curve' and the clean up. KISS principle . . . you get OUT of it what you put INTO it. Plus, I really think it's quicker !! MinWax vs 'high-priced spread' ? Can't really say. I'm cheap. I use stuff that is from decent companies, with a decent reputations, with Laboratory Technicians that can answer SPECIFIC questions. There is at least one MinWax stain that I WON'T use . . . and I can't get a straight answer as to why the color is completely DIFFERENT than either the 'printed' chart or the ACTUAL finished 'samples'. For what it's worth . . . Regards & Good Luck, Ron Magen Backyard Boatshop "DK" wrote in message ... What's going on!?!? I'm using a varnish brush to apply satin poly (Minwax) to maple, and my surfaces are rough to the touch! I've eliminated almost all of the dust in the room, as this has happened before & I thought that dust was the cause. It could even be miniscule air bubbles in the coating, but how do I prevent it!!!?! Help!!!! DK "If you can't beat them, arrange to have them beaten." ---George Carlin |
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