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Ron Magen
 
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Default ' Help! Rough surface after poly coat!'

- - - - - -
OK - - - I'm 're-sending' so ListServe won't reject this response
"Ron Magen" wrote in message news:...
OK,
I've read most of the messages, and their 'patented bitching' about MinWax
products.

High cost spray equipment is nice a) if you can afford it . . . and the
compressor to supply air, and b) if you have the space to use/store it.
NEITHER of these things answers YOUR problem NOW.

I have had good results using MinWax products . . . I'm not 'dedicated' to
any one particular brand, by any means. It goes along with the 'KISS'
principle . . . what works and gives you the results YOU want in the least
complicated way.

Are you using Oil or Water based Poly? What was your 'prep' schedule? What
were the conditions Before and After you applied the Poly? Where did you

do
the application?

A few years ago I built a kitchen storage cabinet for Joanne. While it was
Pine, I made the top & rear trim from Maple. I used water-based poly
{MinWax} and it's STILL 'like glass'. She uses the top like a 'side table'
with a lamp, a couple of cups, and what ever she drops on it to look at /
sort through during dinner. I haven't touched it since I built it.

Prep -
Sanded with 80 grit, just 'broke' the edges.
Vacuumed off the dust, and out of the pores
Filled the pores with Bartley's 'Natural' colored filler.
Sanded smooth with 80 grit to remove any filler on the surface
Vacuumed
Stained lightly {MinWax Gel Stain} to get close to the tones of the walls,
cabinets, and table
'Deglossed' with a 3-M pad
Vacuumed

Poly Application -
IN THE BASEMENT - relatively constant, cool temperature {because this is a
mostly 'uninhabited' part of the house, I keep the heating/cooling ducts
closed and taped}
With a 'decent' foam brush, applied the first coat of the poly. Lightly
flowed it on, tipped it off, and LEFT
When dry, the next day, 'scuff sanded' with 220 grit, & applied 2nd coat

of
poly
{DITTO . . .
3rd coat
{Ditto . . . . 320 grit
4th coat
{Ditto . . . . 400 grit
5th coat
{Ditto . . . 600 grit
6th coat
When this was dry, the next day, I gave it a good rub down with a FINE 3-M
pad, followed by a 'rub-out' with some automotive compound, and finally 2
applications of well rubbed-out, hard, automotive wax. The 'application
time' was probably 30 minutes per 'step', more in 'getting ready' &
'cleaning up' than the actual 'doing'. The rest of the time was simply
waiting.

Other than the final 'rub-out' steps, this is how I apply varnish to a
Mahogany transom or trim.

The ambient conditions, or time of day is IMPORTANT. What you think of as
bubble IN the poly, may actually be bubbles coming THROUGH the poly. In

it's
simplest explanation, it's 'outgassing' from the wood as the temperature
increases. One reason for having a constant, cool environment, or doing

the
application late in the afternoon - as the temperature is dropping from

the
heat of the day. Also, by filling the pores, you eliminate almost all of

the
places where the 'gas' comes from.

You may have 'eliminated' all of the dust, but did you? How soon after did
you start the application? What small 'dust' particles {for instance,

smoke}
are still in the air? Air conditioning/heating on? Ducts open, etc.

The amount of 'sticky' time is dependent on the material. One of the

reasons
I like water-based poly is that it dries quickly. When I was re-finishing
some interior doors, I basically used the same schedule; except I was able
to apply a coat every 4-6 hours. In the case of the Maple top . . . I

chose
to wait 24-hours. Varnish, or oil-based poly dries much more slowly, so
remains 'sensitive' for a longer period.

Long winded, but that's my point. 'Instant Gratification' with an 'Instant


Finish' . . . spray the hell out of it, and spend your time on the

'learning
curve' and the clean up. KISS principle . . . you get OUT of it what you

put
INTO it. Plus, I really think it's quicker !!

MinWax vs 'high-priced spread' ? Can't really say. I'm cheap. I use stuff
that is from decent companies, with a decent reputations, with Laboratory
Technicians that can answer SPECIFIC questions. There is at least one

MinWax
stain that I WON'T use . . . and I can't get a straight answer as to why

the
color is completely DIFFERENT than either the 'printed' chart or the

ACTUAL
finished 'samples'.

For what it's worth . . .

Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop


"DK" wrote in message
...
What's going on!?!? I'm using a varnish brush to apply satin poly
(Minwax) to maple, and my surfaces are rough to the touch!

I've eliminated almost all of the dust in the room, as this has
happened before & I thought that dust was the cause. It could even be
miniscule air bubbles in the coating, but how do I prevent it!!!?!

Help!!!!

DK

"If you can't beat them, arrange to have them beaten." ---George Carlin





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