Other threads have detailed my journey to get rid of some vibration in
my saw caused by pulleys and trying to get to a link belt system.

Quick summary:

Motor pulley of cast aluminum with too large of a BOLT in the keyway.
Resolved with a proper set screw.

Bought a V-Link belt, it would not track in the pulleys, changed to a
simple replacement belt. This belt still had pretty bad vibration.

Chnaged to a micro v belt, substantial improvment in vibration, but
still too much. Items at end of table and 52" of fence shake 1/4" or
more.

Tried removal of arbor pulley. Would not budge. Contacted Jet tech
support that indicated there is only 1 keyway it would come off.

2 hours of extreme persusion with a 3' prybar resulted in a shattered
cast aluminum pulley from the arbor, and evidence the pulley had
wallowed a bit and torqued into the keyway.

Took a trip to the bearing store. Find out the arbor is machined by
Jet to some goofy metric size. Jet is unwilling to advise the size as
it is a replacement part, rep couldn't tell me if Jet replacement
pulley was machined.

Last night I _removed_ the arbor and it's bearings. Both bearings
felt extremely gritty in revoltion. One "calmed down" after a few
dozen revolutions and is probably pretty good. But the other bearing
is still gritty and I suspect adds to the vibration right at the blade
flange.

I have done some extensive searching on line for machined pulleys.
Sent off a couple of emails, so perhaps will get an answer on Monday
about the funny arbor size (.581). The local bearing shop is going to
see about reaming out a half inch (1/2") machined pulley to the proper
size and cutting the keyway back in.

END OF SUMMARY

What is the proper proceedure for reinstall of the bearings and the
arbor? I assume I tap the bearings into the trunion first, then tap
the arbor through? Thought I would put the arbor in the freezer over
night to make is slightly small for the easiest installation.

Alan

Alan W wrote:
Other threads have detailed my journey to get rid of some vibration in
my saw caused by pulleys and trying to get to a link belt system.

Quick summary:

Motor pulley of cast aluminum with too large of a BOLT in the keyway.
Resolved with a proper set screw.

Bought a V-Link belt, it would not track in the pulleys, changed to a
simple replacement belt. This belt still had pretty bad vibration.

Chnaged to a micro v belt, substantial improvment in vibration, but
still too much. Items at end of table and 52" of fence shake 1/4" or
more.

Tried removal of arbor pulley. Would not budge. Contacted Jet tech
support that indicated there is only 1 keyway it would come off.

2 hours of extreme persusion with a 3' prybar resulted in a shattered
cast aluminum pulley from the arbor, and evidence the pulley had
wallowed a bit and torqued into the keyway.

How much have you bent the shaft doing this? Gear pullers are the only
way to do this without risking damage.

Took a trip to the bearing store. Find out the arbor is machined by
Jet to some goofy metric size. Jet is unwilling to advise the size as
it is a replacement part, rep couldn't tell me if Jet replacement
pulley was machined.

Last night I _removed_ the arbor and it's bearings. Both bearings
felt extremely gritty in revoltion. One "calmed down" after a few
dozen revolutions and is probably pretty good. But the other bearing
is still gritty and I suspect adds to the vibration right at the blade
flange.

I have done some extensive searching on line for machined pulleys.
Sent off a couple of emails, so perhaps will get an answer on Monday
about the funny arbor size (.581).

Sounds like a 13 mm shaft.

The local bearing shop is going to
see about reaming out a half inch (1/2") machined pulley to the proper
size and cutting the keyway back in.

END OF SUMMARY

What is the proper proceedure for reinstall of the bearings and the
arbor? I assume I tap the bearings into the trunion first, then tap
the arbor through?

Usually the bearings fit easily into the trunion after they are placed
on the shaft. I place them on the shaft and then with short lengths of
pipe whose ID is just larger than the shaft press the bearings on with
an arbor press.

Thought I would put the arbor in the freezer over
night to make is slightly small for the easiest installation.

Better to use liquid nitrogen or carbon dioxide, either dry ice or from
a fire extinguisher. Going from 70F to 0F will reduce a 0.581 shaft's
diameter by somewhere around 0.0004 to 0.0006 inch, not a lot.

Phil


Alan

How much have you bent the shaft doing this? Gear pullers are the only
way to do this without risking damage.


Equally I hope, as I made rotations of the pulley as I exerted the
force required. Perhaps I could have gotten a small pulley puller in
there after tilting of the trunion to 45 degrees. If Jet has
indicated a puller was needed I would have given it more caution. It
SHOULD slide on and off just as it does on the motor, but it had
jammed up on the keyway.

Took a trip to the bearing store. Find out the arbor is machined by
Jet to some goofy metric size. Jet is unwilling to advise the size as
it is a replacement part, rep couldn't tell me if Jet replacement
pulley was machined.

Last night I _removed_ the arbor and it's bearings. Both bearings
felt extremely gritty in revoltion. One "calmed down" after a few
dozen revolutions and is probably pretty good. But the other bearing
is still gritty and I suspect adds to the vibration right at the blade
flange.

I have done some extensive searching on line for machined pulleys.
Sent off a couple of emails, so perhaps will get an answer on Monday
about the funny arbor size (.581).

Sounds like a 13 mm shaft.

No, it's 14.75mm according to the machinist's micrometer. Why Jet
turns down a 5/6" shaft is just stupid. They sell an $18.00 part
wooppee.. Gonna make em rich!


The local bearing shop is going to
see about reaming out a half inch (1/2") machined pulley to the proper
size and cutting the keyway back in.

END OF SUMMARY

What is the proper proceedure for reinstall of the bearings and the
arbor? I assume I tap the bearings into the trunion first, then tap
the arbor through?

Usually the bearings fit easily into the trunion after they are placed
on the shaft. I place them on the shaft and then with short lengths of
pipe whose ID is just larger than the shaft press the bearings on with
an arbor press.


One bearing is on the shaft, the other has to go in the opposite side
of the trunion and will not go on the shaft until the shaft is
insteared into the first trunion. It will take some work I think to
be able to press the shaft through that bearing as well. Only a snap
ring will retain the bearing against the pressure of the shaft
insertion.


Thought I would put the arbor in the freezer over
night to make is slightly small for the easiest installation.

Better to use liquid nitrogen or carbon dioxide, either dry ice or from
a fire extinguisher. Going from 70F to 0F will reduce a 0.581 shaft's
diameter by somewhere around 0.0004 to 0.0006 inch, not a lot.


Will consider the dry ice if necessary. A few 10 thousands might be
all that is needed.


Alan