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  #1   Report Post  
Bernie
 
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Default Clear Protective Finish

I am looking for the name and source of a thick clear protective finish
similar to what you find on a wooden pub stle table. On some of these tables
it is about 1/8" thick. No it wasn't the beer.

I have some recycled oak planks with big gaps in it that I would like to
fill with this clear finish. The grain figure in these planks is quite nice.
I recall reading a while back that it is a 2 part (epoxy?)

Thanks,
Bernie
  #2   Report Post  
Fred McClellan
 
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Default Clear Protective Finish

On Tue, 16 Sep 2003 03:02:22 GMT, Fred McClellan
wrote:

On Tue, 16 Sep 2003 02:41:19 GMT, "Bernie" wrote:

I am looking for the name and source of a thick clear protective finish
similar to what you find on a wooden pub stle table. On some of these tables
it is about 1/8" thick. No it wasn't the beer.

I have some recycled oak planks with big gaps in it that I would like to
fill with this clear finish. The grain figure in these planks is quite nice.
I recall reading a while back that it is a 2 part (epoxy?)


Something which might suffice is EnviroTex Lite, a two-part epoxy
finishing system.


Forgot . . .

EnviroTex Lite is NOT immune to UV damage, which is the case with most
two-part epoxies, and therefore not suitable for outdoor applications.


Cheers,
Fred McClellan
the dash plumber at mindspring dot com
  #3   Report Post  
Andy Dingley
 
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Default Clear Protective Finish

On Tue, 16 Sep 2003 02:41:19 GMT, "Bernie" wrote:

I have some recycled oak planks with big gaps in it that I would like to
fill with this clear finish. The grain figure in these planks is quite nice.
I recall reading a while back that it is a 2 part (epoxy?)


If you want a finish, then I'd suggest Rustin's "Plastic Coating" or
the various "Bar Top" finishes. You can also find these as floor
finishes. Generally the bar tops are also heat resistant and the
floor finishes may be more wear resistant.

These are acid-cure urea formaldehyde resins. Very quick and prettty
easy to work with, but they stink like nothing on earth when freshly
mixed ! Goes away quickly though.

I wouldn't use epoxy as an outdoor finish, as it's not good with UV.
If you do use it, an opaque pigment will improve things. West System
are a good high-end epoxy and very helpful with information.

The bar top finishes don't like being applied over other finishes, but
they're OK over epoxy that was used for crack filling. Mix your epoxy
with a filler before applying; glass microballoons (available cheaply
from West) for a clear / translucent / white result or phenolic
microballoons and a spot of green pigment to match darker timbers. The
fillers will reduce the amount of epoxy you use, make the mix more
viscous and easier to work with for crack filling, and make the
hardened epoxy easy to work with a hand scraper. Over-apply and then
use a #80 to take it down flush.


  #4   Report Post  
Ron Magen
 
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Default Clear Protective Finish

Bernie,
I'm a big believer in epoxy.

Two suggestions;
1 - a number of the 'Krafts Catalogs' sell a product for this task -
'KraftKote' is one brand and offered by 'Klockit'. . . www.Klockit.com

2 - I would 'go direct' to their probably supplier; contact System Three
Resins . . . I don't remember the exact product, but they do have one, and
they do sell to the public.

3 - my 'supplier of choice' is RAKA Epoxies . . . www.raka.com . I don't
know if they sell a specific 'thick' product . . . but they sell just about
everything else !!

Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop


"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 16 Sep 2003 02:41:19 GMT, "Bernie" wrote:

I have some recycled oak planks with big gaps in it that I would like to
fill with this clear finish. The grain figure in these planks is quite

nice.
I recall reading a while back that it is a 2 part (epoxy?)


If you want a finish, then I'd suggest Rustin's "Plastic Coating" or
the various "Bar Top" finishes.


SNIP


  #5   Report Post  
Alan McClure
 
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Default Clear Protective Finish



Fred McClellan wrote:

On Tue, 16 Sep 2003 03:02:22 GMT, Fred McClellan
wrote:

On Tue, 16 Sep 2003 02:41:19 GMT, "Bernie" wrote:

I am looking for the name and source of a thick clear protective finish
similar to what you find on a wooden pub stle table. On some of these tables
it is about 1/8" thick. No it wasn't the beer.

I have some recycled oak planks with big gaps in it that I would like to
fill with this clear finish. The grain figure in these planks is quite nice.
I recall reading a while back that it is a 2 part (epoxy?)


Something which might suffice is EnviroTex Lite, a two-part epoxy
finishing system.


Forgot . . .

EnviroTex Lite is NOT immune to UV damage, which is the case with most
two-part epoxies, and therefore not suitable for outdoor applications.

Cheers,
Fred McClellan
the dash plumber at mindspring dot com


If not outdoors, where the heck do you fly your plane???!!!!
ARM



  #6   Report Post  
Fred McClellan
 
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Default Clear Protective Finish

On Tue, 16 Sep 2003 12:55:07 -0400, Alan McClure
wrote:



Fred McClellan wrote:

On Tue, 16 Sep 2003 03:02:22 GMT, Fred McClellan
wrote:

On Tue, 16 Sep 2003 02:41:19 GMT, "Bernie" wrote:

I am looking for the name and source of a thick clear protective finish
similar to what you find on a wooden pub stle table. On some of these tables
it is about 1/8" thick. No it wasn't the beer.

I have some recycled oak planks with big gaps in it that I would like to
fill with this clear finish. The grain figure in these planks is quite nice.
I recall reading a while back that it is a 2 part (epoxy?)


Something which might suffice is EnviroTex Lite, a two-part epoxy
finishing system.


Forgot . . .

EnviroTex Lite is NOT immune to UV damage, which is the case with most
two-part epoxies, and therefore not suitable for outdoor applications.

Cheers,
Fred McClellan
the dash plumber at mindspring dot com


If not outdoors, where the heck do you fly your plane???!!!!
ARM


The .6 oz. glass cloth/epoxy is just the last stage of construction,
to get a very smooth surface.

The models are painted, and that stops UV.
Cheers,
Fred McClellan
the dash plumber at mindspring dot com
  #7   Report Post  
Alan McClure
 
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Default Clear Protective Finish



Fred McClellan wrote:

On Tue, 16 Sep 2003 12:55:07 -0400, Alan McClure
wrote:



Fred McClellan wrote:

On Tue, 16 Sep 2003 03:02:22 GMT, Fred McClellan
wrote:

On Tue, 16 Sep 2003 02:41:19 GMT, "Bernie" wrote:

I am looking for the name and source of a thick clear protective finish
similar to what you find on a wooden pub stle table. On some of these tables
it is about 1/8" thick. No it wasn't the beer.

I have some recycled oak planks with big gaps in it that I would like to
fill with this clear finish. The grain figure in these planks is quite nice.
I recall reading a while back that it is a 2 part (epoxy?)


Something which might suffice is EnviroTex Lite, a two-part epoxy
finishing system.


Forgot . . .

EnviroTex Lite is NOT immune to UV damage, which is the case with most
two-part epoxies, and therefore not suitable for outdoor applications.

Cheers,
Fred McClellan
the dash plumber at mindspring dot com


If not outdoors, where the heck do you fly your plane???!!!!
ARM


The .6 oz. glass cloth/epoxy is just the last stage of construction,
to get a very smooth surface.

The models are painted, and that stops UV.
Cheers,
Fred McClellan
the dash plumber at mindspring dot com


I assumed that I was just trying to pull your chain.
Actually, my wife's place of employment overlooks a building
that you could fly your model plane in without any trouble. A
co-worker of mine used to test parachutes inside it.

ARM

  #8   Report Post  
Fred McClellan
 
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Default Clear Protective Finish

On Wed, 17 Sep 2003 12:37:15 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote:


"Fred McClellan" wrote in message If not
outdoors, where the heck do you fly your plane???!!!!
ARM


The .6 oz. glass cloth/epoxy is just the last stage of construction,
to get a very smooth surface.

The models are painted, and that stops UV.
Cheers,
Fred McClellan



Not much consideration anyway. Outdoor furniture can be exposed to UV for
12 to 14 hours a day, every day. When I flew RC, I'd have a plane out of
the car maybe three hours a week, maybe 10 or 20 weeks a year at best.
Ed


Made the mistake of using epoxy on the foredeck of a bass boat.
Showed the grain nicely, so we left it unpainted.

A year later the epoxy was cracked to pieces, rubbery, and peeled off
the marine ply without any fuss at all.


Cheers,
Fred McClellan
the dash plumber at mindspring dot com
  #9   Report Post  
Fred McClellan
 
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Default Clear Protective Finish

On Wed, 17 Sep 2003 10:20:27 -0400, Alan McClure
wrote:
SNIP

I assumed that I was just trying to pull your chain.
Actually, my wife's place of employment overlooks a building
that you could fly your model plane in without any trouble. A
co-worker of mine used to test parachutes inside it.


Ah.

Well, it's a nutty hobby and not many 'outsiders' have much of a clue
about all the various types of models being flown these days.

The "Geezer Event" is indoor rubber powered models, and those guys are
nothing short of amazing when it comes to building light and getting
an obscene amount of flight time on a single wind.

Don't care for that discipline myself, though. I build giant gassers;
my smallest model has a wingspan of 96" and it needs several hundred
feet to complete a U turn at full throttle.

I could fly it in a large building, but all I'd do is fly itty bitty
circles. Boring, boring, _boring_ !
g
Cheers,
Fred McClellan
the dash plumber at mindspring dot com
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