On Jul 26, 11:20 am, wrote:
On Thu, 26 Jul 2007 07:27:25 -0700, Jeff wrote:
I built a jig to make finger joints on my router table. I'm using a
1/2" router bit and spacing the fingers 1/2" apart. It worked well.
Probably too well. I had to dry join the wood with a rubber mallet and
a vise. The fit is extremely tight. I suspect it is way too tight to
glue. It seems to me that I'd want a couple thousands of an inch gap
between the fingers to accommodate the glue. What's a good way to
accomplish this? Should I just sand the fingers before joining?

Move the jig a hair closer to the bit.

Pete

You mean move the pin a couple thousands of an inch closer to the bit?
I'm not going to be able to move the pin with that type of precision,
but I can prolly make the adjustment by shaving wood off the runner
that guides the jig along the router table. The jig straddles the
table and I have a runner on each side.

Jeff

"Jeff" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Jul 26, 11:20 am, wrote:
On Thu, 26 Jul 2007 07:27:25 -0700, Jeff wrote:
I built a jig to make finger joints on my router table. I'm using a
1/2" router bit and spacing the fingers 1/2" apart. It worked well.
Probably too well. I had to dry join the wood with a rubber mallet and
a vise. The fit is extremely tight. I suspect it is way too tight to
glue. It seems to me that I'd want a couple thousands of an inch gap
between the fingers to accommodate the glue. What's a good way to
accomplish this? Should I just sand the fingers before joining?

Move the jig a hair closer to the bit.

Pete

You mean move the pin a couple thousands of an inch closer to the bit?
I'm not going to be able to move the pin with that type of precision,
but I can prolly make the adjustment by shaving wood off the runner
that guides the jig along the router table. The jig straddles the
table and I have a runner on each side.


Pete gave the right answer. Makes the piece left behind a touch narrower,
while the bit still takes the same amount.

Sounds like you made something similar to a tablesaw jig. You can try
gluing some paper to the side of the pin and seeing how that does you.
Should work.

Of course, you could make your next jig this way and have the microadjust
built in. Works great. http://www.routerworkshop.com/boxjoints.html

On Jul 26, 2:18 pm, "George" wrote:
"Jeff" wrote in message

oups.com...



On Jul 26, 11:20 am, wrote:
On Thu, 26 Jul 2007 07:27:25 -0700, Jeff wrote:
I built a jig to make finger joints on my router table. I'm using a
1/2" router bit and spacing the fingers 1/2" apart. It worked well.
Probably too well. I had to dry join the wood with a rubber mallet and
a vise. The fit is extremely tight. I suspect it is way too tight to
glue. It seems to me that I'd want a couple thousands of an inch gap
between the fingers to accommodate the glue. What's a good way to
accomplish this? Should I just sand the fingers before joining?

Move the jig a hair closer to the bit.

Pete

You mean move the pin a couple thousands of an inch closer to the bit?
I'm not going to be able to move the pin with that type of precision,
but I can prolly make the adjustment by shaving wood off the runner
that guides the jig along the router table. The jig straddles the
table and I have a runner on each side.

Pete gave the right answer. Makes the piece left behind a touch narrower,
while the bit still takes the same amount.

Sounds like you made something similar to a tablesaw jig. You can try
gluing some paper to the side of the pin and seeing how that does you.
Should work.

Of course, you could make your next jig this way and have the microadjust
built in. Works great.http://www.routerworkshop.com/boxjoints.html

That jig is perfect.

Mine was modeled after the table saw jig because I had been using the
table saw to cut them. I was sick of changing to dado blades so I
ported my table saw jig to the router table.

Thanks,
Jeff

On Thu, 26 Jul 2007 08:36:02 -0700, Jeff wrote:
On Jul 26, 11:20 am, wrote:

Move the jig a hair closer to the bit.

You mean move the pin a couple thousands of an inch closer to the
bit? I'm not going to be able to move the pin with that type of
precision,

Yes you can. Here's a jig that illustrates a rather complex form of
the adjuster

http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/readarticle.pl?
dir=jigs&file=articles_436.shtml

although it doesn't explain it.

If you use a screw with a known pitch, you can calculate the exact
amount of movement ("lead") each turn or portion will produce. The
common example is a 10-32 scew--each turn produces 1/32"(0.3125")
movement. So an eighth of a turn is 1/256" (0.0039"), a very fine
adjustment indeed. Mark the screw head and use a paper marking circle
with 10 degree increments to keep track of even more precise fractions
of turns. 11.52 degrees equals 0.001" although that won't divide a
circle evenly.

My own jig is simpler, I used oak for the moving face and an insert
nut in a tailpiece glued onto face of the backboard. When set, I just
clamp them together.


--
Steve Hall [ digitect dancingpaper com ]

In article ,
digitect wrote:

Yes you can. Here's a jig that illustrates a rather complex form of
the adjuster

http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/readarticle.pl?
dir=jigs&file=articles_436.shtml

although it doesn't explain it.

There's something cool about an article that shows a beautiful walnut jig
being used to make something out of "old dried up, splintery pine scrap",
even if it is just a test piece. :-)

In article ,
digitect wrote:

If you use a screw with a known pitch, you can calculate the exact
amount of movement ("lead") each turn or portion will produce. The
common example is a 10-32 scew--each turn produces 1/32"(0.3125")
movement. So an eighth of a turn is 1/256" (0.0039"), a very fine
adjustment indeed. Mark the screw head and use a paper marking circle
with 10 degree increments to keep track of even more precise fractions
of turns. 11.52 degrees equals 0.001" although that won't divide a
circle evenly.

I've got a fence for my router table I made like that. If you use a 1/4-20
bolt, the numbers work out easier. 1/5th of a turn is 0.01 inches, and
with a little care, you can make 0.001 adjustments, which more than
qualifies as an RCH when working with wood.

Compress a spring under the bolt head when you assemble it to reduce
backlash.

On Sat, 28 Jul 2007 10:44:32 -0400, Roy Smith wrote:

There's something cool about an article that shows a beautiful
walnut jig being used to make something out of "old dried up,
splintery pine scrap", even if it is just a test piece. :-)

Me too, sometimes jigs end up being more fun than the piece.
(Actually, sometimes jigs are the whole reason to make the piece! )


--
Steve Hall [ digitect dancingpaper com ]