"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
m...
Being, planless, I need some expert advice as I embark now on my next
project. Leon posted one hell of a great looking desk a few days back,
but alas he didn't provide a set of measured drawings. I want to
make a desk using side panels that are thin ply captured by rails/style.
The top will most likely be oak ply banded with solid oak. I figured
I'd have the side panels be inset from the top edges a bit, using a dado
and metal clamps to secure the top to the sides. yes or no? what's the
coolest way to secure the top, IF it's dimensionally stable, like ply?

The plans were in my head... Sorry. I attached the top with Figure 8
fasteners. They allow movement in the wood.


Now for the back panel. Biscuits won't be strong enough for a joint
between the back panel and side panels will they? Figure this desk is
going to get tipped on its side and other wise pushed around in order to
get it into my office. I own a DP with mortiser, which I know is
marginal, compared to a dedicated one. Is this the only construction
method I should consider for back/side joinery? BTW, I'd prefer NOT to
have any metal plates, brackets, what-not showing from underneath the
desk (except way up by the underside of the top) . In other words if
you remove the chair and peer under the desk, towards the back panel, it
should look clean--no fasteners.

Dave I attached a modisty shield between the two drawer units with 4
threaded pins... One end of the pin screws into the center panel "modisty
shield" like a wood screw. The other end of the pin is threaded to accept a
nut. This end goes through holes in the back of the drawer units. The pins
stick through enough that a washer and nut is added to hold the panel in
place. This all takes place inside the drawer units and behind the drawers.
My desk is huge and would not go through any door with out being able to
knock it down to 4 major pieces.



I'm gonna make this thing with only one bank of drawers, on the right
side, as my office has too much furniture and too little space.
Actually, I'm replacing a BIG Hon metal desk and want to recoup a little
floor space. So, if I can, I'd like 3 drawers on the right side. If, by
making 3 good sized drawers, instead of 2, the lowest drawer will be
lower than the typical lower edge of the back panel. It would look
weird to have the drawer cabinet stick out below the panel, I think
(looking from the backside of the desk), so, should the back panel just
span from the left side of the desk to the left side of the drawer
cabinet, instead of going all the way between the two desk side panels?
I ask these questions, because I've been looking at desk, and notice
that the back panel's lower edge is flush with the drawer cabinet's
lower edge. I know some things are PERSONAL PREFERENCE, but I don't
want to be making things dorky or odd.

PLEASE, please, ask me for clarification if you would like to help, but
don't understand my questions.

RECAP OF QUESTIONS:

1) Best way to secure ply top (overhanging style) to side panels.

Figure 8 fasteners

2) Best joinery for side to back panel

Threaded pins and nuts.

3) Should back panel's lower edge be at same height as bottom of drawer
box?

My desk has moldings around the bottom of the drawer cabinets. The back
panel bottom is Just above the moldings. It does not touch the floor.


4) Should the back panel be joined to right panel, or left face of
drawer box.

I joined the back panel to the drawer units 2" shy of flush with the backs
of the drawer units. They are attached with the threaded pin,"rods" through
the inside sides of the drawer units.

Leon, you bring up an interesting point: am I gonna misjudge the size of
the desk and end up like the guy who built a boat in his basement...?
I'd make a knockdown desk if I'd trust that I could make it sturdily. I
guess if I got the Hon metal desk into the room (we slide it in on its
side) I should be able to get a wooden desk in there too. Your
descriptions of some of the elements of your desk are very clear;
thanks! and just HOW big is that bad boy, anyway?

dave

Leon wrote:

"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
m...

Being, planless, I need some expert advice as I embark now on my next
project. Leon posted one hell of a great looking desk a few days back,
but alas he didn't provide a set of measured drawings. I want to
make a desk using side panels that are thin ply captured by rails/style.
The top will most likely be oak ply banded with solid oak. I figured
I'd have the side panels be inset from the top edges a bit, using a dado
and metal clamps to secure the top to the sides. yes or no? what's the
coolest way to secure the top, IF it's dimensionally stable, like ply?


The plans were in my head... Sorry. I attached the top with Figure 8
fasteners. They allow movement in the wood.



Now for the back panel. Biscuits won't be strong enough for a joint
between the back panel and side panels will they? Figure this desk is
going to get tipped on its side and other wise pushed around in order to
get it into my office. I own a DP with mortiser, which I know is
marginal, compared to a dedicated one. Is this the only construction
method I should consider for back/side joinery? BTW, I'd prefer NOT to
have any metal plates, brackets, what-not showing from underneath the
desk (except way up by the underside of the top) . In other words if
you remove the chair and peer under the desk, towards the back panel, it
should look clean--no fasteners.


Dave I attached a modisty shield between the two drawer units with 4
threaded pins... One end of the pin screws into the center panel "modisty
shield" like a wood screw. The other end of the pin is threaded to accept a
nut. This end goes through holes in the back of the drawer units. The pins
stick through enough that a washer and nut is added to hold the panel in
place. This all takes place inside the drawer units and behind the drawers.
My desk is huge and would not go through any door with out being able to
knock it down to 4 major pieces.




I'm gonna make this thing with only one bank of drawers, on the right
side, as my office has too much furniture and too little space.
Actually, I'm replacing a BIG Hon metal desk and want to recoup a little
floor space. So, if I can, I'd like 3 drawers on the right side. If, by
making 3 good sized drawers, instead of 2, the lowest drawer will be
lower than the typical lower edge of the back panel. It would look
weird to have the drawer cabinet stick out below the panel, I think
(looking from the backside of the desk), so, should the back panel just
span from the left side of the desk to the left side of the drawer
cabinet, instead of going all the way between the two desk side panels?
I ask these questions, because I've been looking at desk, and notice
that the back panel's lower edge is flush with the drawer cabinet's
lower edge. I know some things are PERSONAL PREFERENCE, but I don't
want to be making things dorky or odd.

PLEASE, please, ask me for clarification if you would like to help, but
don't understand my questions.

RECAP OF QUESTIONS:

1) Best way to secure ply top (overhanging style) to side panels.


Figure 8 fasteners

2) Best joinery for side to back panel


Threaded pins and nuts.


3) Should back panel's lower edge be at same height as bottom of drawer

box?

My desk has moldings around the bottom of the drawer cabinets. The back
panel bottom is Just above the moldings. It does not touch the floor.


4) Should the back panel be joined to right panel, or left face of
drawer box.


I joined the back panel to the drawer units 2" shy of flush with the backs
of the drawer units. They are attached with the threaded pin,"rods" through
the inside sides of the drawer units.

66" x 34" Not huge, huge, but too big to fit through a bedroom door
assembled.

Sturdy in my case was no problem as the drawer units are self contained and
quite sturdy by themselves. Attaching the top to the drawer units makes
everything sturdy after attaching the modesty shield. One other piece
besides the modesty shield that establishes the distance between the drawer
units is a piece under the front center drawer that attaches by screws to
each drawer unit through the top drawer openings. This has proven to be
quite strong as I have assembled and disassembled this desk 5 times in 18
years to relocate. The whole desk can be slid on a ceramic tile floor with
no problems.


"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
m...
Leon, you bring up an interesting point: am I gonna misjudge the size of
the desk and end up like the guy who built a boat in his basement...?
I'd make a knockdown desk if I'd trust that I could make it sturdily. I
guess if I got the Hon metal desk into the room (we slide it in on its
side) I should be able to get a wooden desk in there too. Your
descriptions of some of the elements of your desk are very clear;
thanks! and just HOW big is that bad boy, anyway?

dave

Leon wrote:

"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
m...

Being, planless, I need some expert advice as I embark now on my next
project. Leon posted one hell of a great looking desk a few days back,
but alas he didn't provide a set of measured drawings. I want to
make a desk using side panels that are thin ply captured by rails/style.
The top will most likely be oak ply banded with solid oak. I figured
I'd have the side panels be inset from the top edges a bit, using a dado
and metal clamps to secure the top to the sides. yes or no? what's the
coolest way to secure the top, IF it's dimensionally stable, like ply?


The plans were in my head... Sorry. I attached the top with Figure 8
fasteners. They allow movement in the wood.



Now for the back panel. Biscuits won't be strong enough for a joint
between the back panel and side panels will they? Figure this desk is
going to get tipped on its side and other wise pushed around in order to
get it into my office. I own a DP with mortiser, which I know is
marginal, compared to a dedicated one. Is this the only construction
method I should consider for back/side joinery? BTW, I'd prefer NOT to
have any metal plates, brackets, what-not showing from underneath the
desk (except way up by the underside of the top) . In other words if
you remove the chair and peer under the desk, towards the back panel, it
should look clean--no fasteners.


Dave I attached a modisty shield between the two drawer units with 4
threaded pins... One end of the pin screws into the center panel
"modisty
shield" like a wood screw. The other end of the pin is threaded to
accept a
nut. This end goes through holes in the back of the drawer units. The
pins
stick through enough that a washer and nut is added to hold the panel in
place. This all takes place inside the drawer units and behind the
drawers.
My desk is huge and would not go through any door with out being able to
knock it down to 4 major pieces.




I'm gonna make this thing with only one bank of drawers, on the right
side, as my office has too much furniture and too little space.
Actually, I'm replacing a BIG Hon metal desk and want to recoup a little
floor space. So, if I can, I'd like 3 drawers on the right side. If, by
making 3 good sized drawers, instead of 2, the lowest drawer will be
lower than the typical lower edge of the back panel. It would look
weird to have the drawer cabinet stick out below the panel, I think
(looking from the backside of the desk), so, should the back panel just
span from the left side of the desk to the left side of the drawer
cabinet, instead of going all the way between the two desk side panels?
I ask these questions, because I've been looking at desk, and notice
that the back panel's lower edge is flush with the drawer cabinet's
lower edge. I know some things are PERSONAL PREFERENCE, but I don't
want to be making things dorky or odd.

PLEASE, please, ask me for clarification if you would like to help, but
don't understand my questions.

RECAP OF QUESTIONS:

1) Best way to secure ply top (overhanging style) to side panels.


Figure 8 fasteners

2) Best joinery for side to back panel


Threaded pins and nuts.


3) Should back panel's lower edge be at same height as bottom of drawer

box?

My desk has moldings around the bottom of the drawer cabinets. The back
panel bottom is Just above the moldings. It does not touch the floor.


4) Should the back panel be joined to right panel, or left face of
drawer box.


I joined the back panel to the drawer units 2" shy of flush with the
backs
of the drawer units. They are attached with the threaded pin,"rods"
through
the inside sides of the drawer units.

well, it's somewhat huge. the metal desk I've got now is 30 x 60 and too
big for the room it's in. SWMBO has a desk that is 25x50 which is
almost the right size. I'm thinking a bit bigger than that one, but not
a heck of a lot, or I'll be right back where I started!

I take it you are talking about a 3/4 x 2 1/2" piece running
horizontally, left to right, between the two drawer units. something
like that??


dave

Leon wrote:

66" x 34" Not huge, huge, but too big to fit through a bedroom door
assembled.

Sturdy in my case was no problem as the drawer units are self contained and
quite sturdy by themselves. Attaching the top to the drawer units makes
everything sturdy after attaching the modesty shield. One other piece
besides the modesty shield that establishes the distance between the drawer
units is a piece under the front center drawer that attaches by screws to
each drawer unit through the top drawer openings. This has proven to be
quite strong as I have assembled and disassembled this desk 5 times in 18
years to relocate. The whole desk can be slid on a ceramic tile floor with
no problems.


"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
m...

Leon, you bring up an interesting point: am I gonna misjudge the size of
the desk and end up like the guy who built a boat in his basement...?
I'd make a knockdown desk if I'd trust that I could make it sturdily. I
guess if I got the Hon metal desk into the room (we slide it in on its
side) I should be able to get a wooden desk in there too. Your
descriptions of some of the elements of your desk are very clear;
thanks! and just HOW big is that bad boy, anyway?

dave

Leon wrote:


"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
.com...


Being, planless, I need some expert advice as I embark now on my next
project. Leon posted one hell of a great looking desk a few days back,
but alas he didn't provide a set of measured drawings. I want to
make a desk using side panels that are thin ply captured by rails/style.
The top will most likely be oak ply banded with solid oak. I figured
I'd have the side panels be inset from the top edges a bit, using a dado
and metal clamps to secure the top to the sides. yes or no? what's the
coolest way to secure the top, IF it's dimensionally stable, like ply?


The plans were in my head... Sorry. I attached the top with Figure 8
fasteners. They allow movement in the wood.




Now for the back panel. Biscuits won't be strong enough for a joint
between the back panel and side panels will they? Figure this desk is
going to get tipped on its side and other wise pushed around in order to
get it into my office. I own a DP with mortiser, which I know is
marginal, compared to a dedicated one. Is this the only construction
method I should consider for back/side joinery? BTW, I'd prefer NOT to
have any metal plates, brackets, what-not showing from underneath the
desk (except way up by the underside of the top) . In other words if
you remove the chair and peer under the desk, towards the back panel, it
should look clean--no fasteners.


Dave I attached a modisty shield between the two drawer units with 4
threaded pins... One end of the pin screws into the center panel

"modisty

shield" like a wood screw. The other end of the pin is threaded to

accept a

nut. This end goes through holes in the back of the drawer units. The

pins

stick through enough that a washer and nut is added to hold the panel in
place. This all takes place inside the drawer units and behind the

drawers.

My desk is huge and would not go through any door with out being able to
knock it down to 4 major pieces.





I'm gonna make this thing with only one bank of drawers, on the right
side, as my office has too much furniture and too little space.
Actually, I'm replacing a BIG Hon metal desk and want to recoup a little
floor space. So, if I can, I'd like 3 drawers on the right side. If, by
making 3 good sized drawers, instead of 2, the lowest drawer will be
lower than the typical lower edge of the back panel. It would look
weird to have the drawer cabinet stick out below the panel, I think
(looking from the backside of the desk), so, should the back panel just
span from the left side of the desk to the left side of the drawer
cabinet, instead of going all the way between the two desk side panels?
I ask these questions, because I've been looking at desk, and notice
that the back panel's lower edge is flush with the drawer cabinet's
lower edge. I know some things are PERSONAL PREFERENCE, but I don't
want to be making things dorky or odd.

PLEASE, please, ask me for clarification if you would like to help, but
don't understand my questions.

RECAP OF QUESTIONS:

1) Best way to secure ply top (overhanging style) to side panels.


Figure 8 fasteners


2) Best joinery for side to back panel


Threaded pins and nuts.



3) Should back panel's lower edge be at same height as bottom of drawer

box?

My desk has moldings around the bottom of the drawer cabinets. The back
panel bottom is Just above the moldings. It does not touch the floor.



4) Should the back panel be joined to right panel, or left face of
drawer box.


I joined the back panel to the drawer units 2" shy of flush with the

backs

of the drawer units. They are attached with the threaded pin,"rods"

through

the inside sides of the drawer units.

"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
m...
well, it's somewhat huge.

Ok,, we are still talking about my desk... right... ;~)



the metal desk I've got now is 30 x 60 and too
big for the room it's in. SWMBO has a desk that is 25x50 which is
almost the right size. I'm thinking a bit bigger than that one, but not
a heck of a lot, or I'll be right back where I started!

I take it you are talking about a 3/4 x 2 1/2" piece running
horizontally, left to right, between the two drawer units. something
like that??

3/4 x 3.5" hirizonally just above where your legs go and it also acts as a
stop for the center drawer.




dave

Leon wrote:

66" x 34" Not huge, huge, but too big to fit through a bedroom door
assembled.

Sturdy in my case was no problem as the drawer units are self contained
and
quite sturdy by themselves. Attaching the top to the drawer units makes
everything sturdy after attaching the modesty shield. One other piece
besides the modesty shield that establishes the distance between the
drawer
units is a piece under the front center drawer that attaches by screws
to
each drawer unit through the top drawer openings. This has proven to be
quite strong as I have assembled and disassembled this desk 5 times in
18
years to relocate. The whole desk can be slid on a ceramic tile floor
with
no problems.


"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
m...

Leon, you bring up an interesting point: am I gonna misjudge the size of
the desk and end up like the guy who built a boat in his basement...?
I'd make a knockdown desk if I'd trust that I could make it sturdily. I
guess if I got the Hon metal desk into the room (we slide it in on its
side) I should be able to get a wooden desk in there too. Your
descriptions of some of the elements of your desk are very clear;
thanks! and just HOW big is that bad boy, anyway?

dave

Leon wrote:


"Bay Area Dave" wrote in message
.com...


Being, planless, I need some expert advice as I embark now on my next
project. Leon posted one hell of a great looking desk a few days
back,
but alas he didn't provide a set of measured drawings. I want to
make a desk using side panels that are thin ply captured by
rails/style.
The top will most likely be oak ply banded with solid oak. I figured
I'd have the side panels be inset from the top edges a bit, using a
dado
and metal clamps to secure the top to the sides. yes or no? what's
the
coolest way to secure the top, IF it's dimensionally stable, like ply?


The plans were in my head... Sorry. I attached the top with Figure 8
fasteners. They allow movement in the wood.




Now for the back panel. Biscuits won't be strong enough for a joint
between the back panel and side panels will they? Figure this desk is
going to get tipped on its side and other wise pushed around in order
to
get it into my office. I own a DP with mortiser, which I know is
marginal, compared to a dedicated one. Is this the only construction
method I should consider for back/side joinery? BTW, I'd prefer NOT
to
have any metal plates, brackets, what-not showing from underneath the
desk (except way up by the underside of the top) . In other words if
you remove the chair and peer under the desk, towards the back panel,
it
should look clean--no fasteners.


Dave I attached a modisty shield between the two drawer units with 4
threaded pins... One end of the pin screws into the center panel

"modisty

shield" like a wood screw. The other end of the pin is threaded to

accept a

nut. This end goes through holes in the back of the drawer units. The

pins

stick through enough that a washer and nut is added to hold the panel
in
place. This all takes place inside the drawer units and behind the

drawers.

My desk is huge and would not go through any door with out being able
to
knock it down to 4 major pieces.





I'm gonna make this thing with only one bank of drawers, on the right
side, as my office has too much furniture and too little space.
Actually, I'm replacing a BIG Hon metal desk and want to recoup a
little
floor space. So, if I can, I'd like 3 drawers on the right side. If,
by
making 3 good sized drawers, instead of 2, the lowest drawer will be
lower than the typical lower edge of the back panel. It would look
weird to have the drawer cabinet stick out below the panel, I think
(looking from the backside of the desk), so, should the back panel
just
span from the left side of the desk to the left side of the drawer
cabinet, instead of going all the way between the two desk side
panels?
I ask these questions, because I've been looking at desk, and
notice
that the back panel's lower edge is flush with the drawer cabinet's
lower edge. I know some things are PERSONAL PREFERENCE, but I don't
want to be making things dorky or odd.

PLEASE, please, ask me for clarification if you would like to help,
but
don't understand my questions.

RECAP OF QUESTIONS:

1) Best way to secure ply top (overhanging style) to side panels.


Figure 8 fasteners


2) Best joinery for side to back panel


Threaded pins and nuts.



3) Should back panel's lower edge be at same height as bottom of
drawer

box?

My desk has moldings around the bottom of the drawer cabinets. The
back
panel bottom is Just above the moldings. It does not touch the floor.



4) Should the back panel be joined to right panel, or left face of
drawer box.


I joined the back panel to the drawer units 2" shy of flush with the

backs

of the drawer units. They are attached with the threaded pin,"rods"

through

the inside sides of the drawer units.

yup.

got it.

thanks!

dave

Leon wrote:


Ok,, we are still talking about my desk... right... ;~)



3/4 x 3.5" hirizonally just above where your legs go and it also acts as a
stop for the center drawer.